Garden Herbs

Plant List:
Achillea
Angelica
Beebalm
Borage
Bronze Fennel
Chicory
Cilantro
Comfrey
Fennel, Bronze
Garlic Chives
Horseherb
Lemon Balm
Lemon Grass
Mint
Oregano
Papalo
Pennyroyal
Plantain
Rosemary
Sage
Shiso
Tansy
Woad
Wormwood
Yarrow see achillea

Fall To Do
Fall & Med'n Herbs
No-Dig G.Beds
Planting Time Ref.
Timing

Companion Planting
Cover Crops
Bed Maximizing

Timing
Fertilize
Seed Germination

Using Herbs To Fill In Gaps in Your Garden Herbs are plants that are used as flavoring agents. The common herbs used in cooking are referred to as culinary herbs. Mild or savory herbs impart a delicate flavor to food while the stronger or pungent herbs add zest to foods. These herbs are attractive and varied so their ornamental value is also important.

The ornamental value of herbs enables them to be used in flower beds, borders, rock gardens, or corner plantings. Some herbs are annuals while others are perennial or come up year after year. You can locate annual herbs in your annual flower garden or vegetable garden. The perennial herbs should be located at the side of the garden where they won’t interfere with next year’s soil preparation.

Generally, you need about one inch of water per week, if not supplied by natural rainfall. A mulch will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weed growth as well. The mints prefer moist soil so they will require more frequent watering.

Annual and biennial herbs can be established by planting the seed directly in the garden or starting seeds indoors for later transplanting to the garden. You can save seed produced by the herb plants for next year’s crop or obtain seed from your local garden center or seed catalog.

To save your own seed, harvest the entire seed head after it has dried on the plant. The seeds should then be allowed to dry in a protected location that is cool and dry. After the seeds are thoroughly dry, thresh the seed from the seed heads and discard the trash. Store in labeled jars in a dark, cool, dry location.

Some herb seeds such as dill, anise, caraway, or coriander can be used for flavorings.

Perennial herbs can be propagated by cuttings or by division. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years in the early spring. The plants should be dug up and cut into several sections. You can also cut 4 to 6 inch sections of the stem and root these by placing the cuttings in moist sand in a shady area. In 4 to 8 weeks, roots should form on these cuttings. Herbs such as sage, winter savory, and thyme can be propagated by cuttings. Chives, lovage, and tarragon can be propagated by division of the roots or crowns.

Leaves of many herbs such as parsley and chives can be harvested for fresh seasonings. On these plants you can gradually remove some of the leaves as you need them. Don’t remove all the foliage at one time. These plants will produce over a long period of time if they are cared for well.

On rosemary and thyme, clip the tops when the plants are in full bloom. Usually, leaves and flowers are harvested together. Basil, fennel, mint, sage, summer savory, sweet marjoram, tarragon, and winter savory are harvested just before the plant starts to bloom.

Chervil and parsley leaves can be cut and dried anytime. Lovage leaves should be harvested early during the first flush of growth.

Many of the herbs we grow today are from the Mediterranean region of the world and thus hot, dry summer weather suits them perfectly. All too often gardeners lose herbs because they don’t have good enough drainage (they really do best in a raised bed) or because they don’t have them in the right exposure. Most require sun. The mints and a few other herbs will grow well in shade or partial shade.

Following is a list and description of some commonly used, adapted herbs for this area:

BASIL – This is one of the easiest of all herbs to grow. It is a rather strong herb, but one that is delightful when chopped fine and mixed with butter. In addition to the standard green forms, there’s a purpleleafed basil and a lemon-scented basil. Basil is quite tender so at the first sign of frost you can expect to lose it.

CAMOMILE – This herb makes one of the best of all herbal teas. There are two varieties. English and German camomile. The dried blossoms of either can be used to make tea. You’ll need to experiment with the amount you want to use, but try pouring boiling water over about one tablespoon for each cup desired and then filter this through a tea strainer after it has steeped for about 10 to 15 minutes.

CATNIP – Is an interesting herb to grow, especially if you have cats. The cats like to roll all over the catnip as well as any surrounding plants, so you’ll probably find it’s best to grow this herb in a hanging basket. Although it is sometimes used to make a hot tea, catnip’s main attribute seems to be known only by cats.

COMFREY – Comfrey is a rank-growing herb with large “donkey-ear” leaves that remind one of green sandpaper. It has been promoted as being high in protein and an excellent foodstuff, but unfortunately, it’s hard to find a suitable way to eat it. It is widely used as a tea made either from the leaves or from the roots.


LEMON BALM – Is a member of the mint family and it can be a very rank growing plant. The leaves have a strong lemon odor and make a delightful tea or they can be used to flavor regular teas. Because of its extreme vigor, it’s probably best to grow this plant in a confined bed area or in containers.

MARJORAM and OREGANO – These herbs are quite similar, although marjoram is considered the milder of the two. They’re both easy to grow and can be used year round. Except in an extreme winter, they look better in the fall and winter than in mid-summer when the growth begins to slow. Oregano is the familiar herb in pizzas and one plant would make a lot of pizzas.

MINTS – There are many mints. Spearmint is one of the most popular and the easiest to grow. Peppermint is more difficult to grow. There’s a pineapple mint, an apple mint, an orange mint (this is so vigorous it soon becomes a weed) and many variations of these basic fragrances. All mints appreciate moisture and do best where they get afternoon shade. A good place to plant spearmint is at the base of a downspout.

ROSEMARY – Rosemary comes in many forms from a bush that grows up to four feet tall to a lowgrowing groundcover variety. The fragrance is rather strong but rosemary is typically used with many meat dishes, especially chicken. One good idea is to use a cut sprig of rosemary to dip into barbecue sauce and then brush it on chicken.

Culinary Herbs to Grow in San Antonio Many of the herbs grown today were originally native to the Mediterranean region of the world, thus they thrive upon the hot, dry summer weather we have in San Antonio. All too often, herbs are lost in the garden because of poor drainage–soggy wet soil does not suit herbs. Other than the mints and only a few other varieties, herbs must be grown in full sun to thrive.

The following is just a short list describing some of the most popular and commonly used herbs in culinary cooking. This selection is also well adapted to our growing conditions in San Antonio.

Basil – An annual, basil is easy to grow from seed, but is readily available in 3″ pots in the spring. It is associated with, but not limited to, Italian dishes. It blends well with tomato-based dishes. It’s aroma is delightful when finely chopped and mixed with butter. Fresh chopped leaves added to a combination of vinegar, crushed garlic and virgin olive oil makes an excellent salad dressing. Basil can be used with pork, roast chicken, scrambled eggs, eggplant and squash dishes. Several green basil varieties are available, including Sweet Green Basil–most commonly used in cooking), Lemon Basil, Holy Basil, Thai Basil and Spicy Globe. There is also a lovely Purple Leaf Basil (a popular choice for use in basil vinegars) that adds a stunning accent to the garden.

Chives – Smallest member of the onion family, these delicate greens are easily grown from seed or transplants. You may use any way that you would use onions. Chives blend well with butter, sour cream, cream cheese, cottage cheese, and are added to sauces and gravies. Both garlic chives and onion chives are available.

Coriander – One of our favorites, this bright green, leafy herb is commonly known around town as “Cilantro.” It is a mainstay ingredient in Mexican dishes, particularly salsa. The leaves have a very strong “clean” flavor, but use only younger leaves, as the older growth can be too strong. The seeds have a flavor similar to orange and are used in pastries, sausage, cooked fruit, and are an important ingredient in pickling spice and curry powder. Easily grown from seed, Coriander (or Chinese Parsley) can be sown every few weeks, so that the gardener has a constant harvest during the warmer months of the year.

Dill – Both the delicate leaves and the seeds can be used. Use in pickling, add to cottage or cream cheese, most vegetables, fish and vinegar based salad dressings and marinades. Dill thrives in the cooler temps of early spring and early autumn, but it germinates easily from seed. The green and yellow striped caterpillars love dill and parsley. The caterpillars turn into our beloved Swallowtail butterfly, so plant enough to share.

Marjoram – Several varieties are available such as Sweet Marjoram, Winter Marjoram, Pot Marjoram and Creeping Golden Marjoram. All forms can be used in cooking. Marjoram blends well with oregano and sage. Add to roast pork, chicken, stews, stuffing, gravies, and spaghetti sauces. Marjoram is often confused with oregano, but has a more delicate, sweet flavor. It is best grown from transplants or cuttings. Except in an extreme winter, both marjoram and oregano look better in the fall and winter than in mid-summer when the growth begins to slow. Marjoram makes an attractive container plant.

Oregano – The name “oregano” is given to several unrelated plants that share the same or similar flavor. True Italian Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is the champion flavoring in Italian dishes, particularly spaghetti sauce. It is also used in Mexican dishes. It can be used to season all meats, stuffing, stews, soups and pizza. Greek Oregano renders a stronger flavor, but is more widely available in nurseries. Both are hardy plants, and Greek Oregano is useful as a landscape plant in that it can provide a green, dense ground cover in difficult soils. When it becomes too high, just like Asiatic Jasmine, one only has to mow it to keep it in control. Mexican Oregano is a small attractive landscape shrub with purple flowers. The leaves hold a pleasant aroma that is especially good in Mexican rice. All oregano leaves are best used dried and crushed.

Parsley – Without a doubt, parsley is the most used and least eaten herb in the world. Millions of pounds are used to garnish dishes, then thrown away! Parsley is loaded with vitamins and minerals, and can easily be added to any dish, just as any of the other popular herbs. Both flat leaved parsley, called Italian Parsley, and the curled variety, called French Parsley, are readily available in nurseries. Some say that Italian Parsley actually has a better flavor. Parsley is a biennial, producing leaves the first year and flowers the next. It has a long, main taproot, so prepare garden soil to a depth of 8″ to 10″. Parsley thrives in cooler temps, so to help it survive our hot summers, plant it so that it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Rosemary – Rosemary is a hearty, tough plant that thrives in San Antonio! It is one of the oldest herbs known to man, and doubles not only as a delicious culinary herb, but is a handsome landscape plant as well. Many varieties are available. It is available in two forms: an upright bush that grows to 4′ to 5′ tall, and a prostrate shrub that some gardeners use as groundcover. The fragrance is rather strong, but rosemary is typically used with many meat dishes, especially chicken and pork.

Sage – This is another herb that doubles as a durable landscape plant in the San Antonio area. Very drought resistant, it can be killed easily by over watering. Sage is best started from transplants or cuttings. There are many varieties of sage available including Garden Sage, Golden Sage, Blue Sage, Pineapple Sage, Tri-color Sage, and Clary Sage. All can be used in cooking. Sage leaves should always be dried before using. Sage is a must in stuffing for poultry. It blends well with pork, chicken, egg and cheese dishes.

Thyme – With over 400 species available, this herb is another valuable plant to use in beds, rock gardens and as a landscape accent. Varieties available locally include Common Thyme, Woolly Thyme, Mother-of-Thyme, Lemon Thyme, English Thyme, Silver Thyme, and Golden Thyme. Common Thyme is usually the variety used in culinary dishes. It has a warm, aromatic scent and flavor, and blends well with beef, poultry, fish, soups and vegetable dishes. As with rosemary, thyme is also a durable landscape plant and will perish in soggy wet soil. It requires full sun to thrive. Thyme, along with sage, rosemary, marjoram, and oregano, should be considered the basics of every herb garden.

In the preparation of teas, many more herbs are available to us. The mint family is one of the largest, hardiest and easiest to grow. Varieties such as Peppermint, Spearmint, Pineapple Mint, Orange Mint, Apple Mint, etc. are available. Other herbs famous for creating delicious, soothing teas are Lemon Balm, Lemon Grass, and Chamomile.

As you can see, herbs are an important part of the local culture and a really interesting alternative to planting regular ornamental plants. For some really neat examples of herb gardening ideas, come out and see for yourself along the Texas Trail at the San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo!

Article contributed by Texas Cooperative Extension staff in Bexar County. Call 210/467-6575 for more information.

Nature's Herb Farm lists most herbs; great photos. SAT area. Mostly plant wholesaler. Phone: (210) 688-9421. email: naturesherbfarm@att.net. 7193 Old Talley Road Lot #7 SAT 78253, Hours: 9am – 4pm Monday – Saturday

Raised bed herb gardens [Texas Gardener's Seeds] Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. Brought to the dinner table, they are aroma and flavor enhancers and add decorative beauty. They will grow in small containers on a porch or window sill or in large containers in patios or formal gardens. They are fairly adaptive to different soil conditions, like to keep their feet on the dry side, and require little maintenance on the part of the gardener.

Rule of Thumb: 1/3 soil; 1/3 composted mulch; 1/3 contractors or playground sand. (I'll talk about soil amendments in another segment.) If you are planting herbs that like their feet a little drier, lessen the soil and compost and increase the sand to 1/4, 1/4 & 1/2. (Mother nature goes with "approximates.”)

Caraway Spice: Caraway Growing In The Garden Growing caraway seeds requires some patience, as the caraway plant is a biennial and doesn’t do more than grow vegetatively in the first season. The caraway plant resembles a carrot and sets seed in its second year.

The caraway plant (Carum carvi) is an herbaceous biennial that will mature to 30 inches tall. The plant is only about 8 inches tall in the first season with carrot-like foliage and a long taproot. By the second year, the plant will triple in size and the foliage becomes more feathery with stout stems. Tiny white flowers appear on the umbrels, which begin in May and last until the end of summer. The spent flowers yield small hard brown seeds– the caraway spice that is an important part of many regional cuisines.

Caraway spice is an under-used and infrequently grown plant in most herb gardens. It is native to Europe and Western Asia where it thrives in full sun and well drained soil with pH ranges of 6.5 to 7.0. It isn’t a good plant for hot, humid climates and prefers cool temperate zones. Sow the seeds 1/2-inch deep in fall or spring.

Once seed germinates, thin the caraway plant to 8 to 12 inches apart. In colder climates, mulch the roots of the plant heavily with straw or organic mulch, which will add nutrients to the soil.

Germination is slow and sporadic when growing caraway seeds, and the herb may be intercropped to help prevent weeds and manage soil conditions.

Very little cultivation is required in caraway growing, but adequate moisture is an important component in the first year. The foliage of caraway plants need to be kept dry during irrigation, so a drip hose is an excellent way to keep the soil moisture level up.

Cut the plant back in the fall as it will die back and re-sprout in spring. Caraway has few pests or disease problems. Plant a second crop a year after the first for consistent production.

Caraway is used as a spice in breads, especially rye bread. It is also found in European cuisine. For example, it is used in caraway seed cake, and it is frequently added to sauerkraut.

New Delhi: Caraway seeds also known as Shahjeera or Siya jeera is widely used for flavouring bread, biscuits, cakes and cheese. Other than a great spice, caraway seeds can do wonders to your health.

How To Grow Catnip or Catmint [Nepeta cataria] Catnip and Catmint are the common names for Nepeta cataria, a hardy perennial herb of the Mint Family, with pungent fragrance which is highly attractive and exciting to cats.

Catnip grows to a height of three or four feet, and features downy, light green foliage with small lavender flowers that grow on spikes up to five inches long.

Catnips grow well in almost any soil, but does best in a moderately rich loam that is well-draining. It's aroma increases when grown in sandy soil or via the hydroponic method. It will grow acceptably in either sun or shade.

Catnip is easily propagated by seed, stem cuttings, or rootball division.

Seed should be sown in rows late in fall or early in the spring and lightly covered.

When sown in the fall, a denser crop is ususally achieved. When plants reach five inches tall, thin so that they stand 12 to 18 inches apart.

Catnip can also be started early indoors and transplanted outside after the last chance of frost.

Cats aren't the only creatures that benefit from Catnip as the leaves may be candied to enjoy as a dessert and it's oil is used to relieve the symptoms of headaches and nervousness.


Pennyroyal

Pennyroyal
Mentha pulegium, commonly pennyroyal, or pennyrile, also called squaw mint, mosquito plant and pudding grass, is a species of flowering plant in the family Lamiaceae native to Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. Wikipedia

Scientific name: Mentha pulegium

Natural Insect Repellent-Pennyroyal Pennyroyal is a perennial herb that is related to the mint family. Its low growing nature and colorful blooms, which can range from reddish purple to lilac, makes this plant a favorite for the herb garden and around the home. But since it is related to the mint family, it can quickly become invasive. To solve this, either control growth through a tough border that the pennyroyal cannot grow through or plant in a container.

Pennyroyal comes in two different varieties that with a quick glance cannot be distinguished. The European variety has four stamens, which is the pollen producing reproductive organ. The American variety only has two stamens and a square stem.

Both types can be grown inside and out. The European pennyroyal has more of a trailing growth habit, which is very conducive to a vertical garden or hanging basket. American pennyroyal works well in container gardens mixed with other herbs and flowers.

Regardless of the variety that you choose, you can start pennyroyal in three ways. The first way is through seeds. These can be purchased from seed catalogues and/or harvested from a friend’s plants. If you purchase your seeds and do not plan to plant immediately, make sure to store them in a cool place away from sunlight.

If, on the other hand, you plan to plant as soon as they arrive, then you will need to prepare to gather your materials. A good all-purpose soil and a flat or container will get you started. The day the seeds arrive, sterilize your container by scrubbing it with an old brush to remove any dirt or hard water stains. Once that is done, place in a bucket of water with a capful of bleach added. Let soak it for 5 to 10 minutes and then rinse. Allow to completely dry out in the sun. Not only will the sun speed up the drying process, it will also sterilize the container beyond what the bleach was able to do.

If using a pot, place a paper coffee filter in the bottom of the container. This will act as drainage material. If you are using a flat, skip the step above.

Once this is done, place your potting soil in the container/flat and moisten with water. Continue to moisten until moisture comes out of the bottom. Now you are ready to plant your seeds, which can simply be sprinkled on the surface of the soil and lightly covered with ¼ inch of soil. Mist with chamomile tea that has cooled. This simple step will prevent damping off, which a fatal fungal disease that seedlings get from being too wet.

At this point, you can cover with clear plastic wrap or leave uncovered. Place in a location that does not receive indirect or no sunlight. Believe it or not, not all seeds require sunlight to germinate. But they do require an evenly moist environment that is warm, so do not be afraid to place your seeds away from the light.

Once you begin to see little green dots appear, remove the plastic wrap if it was used and move to the light. Continue to monitor the soil moisture and water as needed.

Growing Pennyroyal: How To Grow Pennyroyal Herb Pennyroyal plant is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its reddish purple to lilac blooms. There are two plants called pennyroyal.

Pennyroyal can be propagated from seed, cuttings or spring division. The seed needs light to germinate but grows quickly once it sprouts. Plant them in prepared seed beds outside after all danger of frost. Sow the seed on the surface of the soil and mist the bed to moisten it. Keep it moist and germination should occur in two weeks.

Pennyroyal is an easy to grow herb. European pennyroyal makes a wonderful trailing plant when grown in a hanging basket or at the edges of mixed color containers. American pennyroyal can be grown indoors in troughs or outside in the kitchen garden.

Pinch the terminal ends of the herb to stimulate bushiness and a more compact growing shape. Grow pennyroyal as a ground cover in sunny areas with junky soil. The plant will persist even in unfavorable conditions and can be helpful in vegetation-free zones as an erosion control.


Epazoste, Wormseed

Dysphania ambrosioides, formerly Chenopodium ambrosioides, known as wormseed, Jesuit's tea, Mexican-tea, payqu (paico), epazote, or herba sancti Mariæ, is an annual or short-lived perennial herb native to Central America, South America, and southern Mexico. Wikipedia

Grow in full sun for best results, in a warm spot in the garden. Follow the How to Grow Epazote from seeds and feel free to eat beans. Sow indoors in April/May and transplant or sow direct outdoors once soil warms up in early June. Optimal temperature for germination: 21°C (70°F).


Feverfew

Feverfew Growing Guide Soil: Any sunny site with good drainage. Position: Full sun to partial afternoon shade.

Most individual plants die in their second or third summer, after blooming heavily.

Companions: Mint. Also grown with beds of other tea plants where insects are not wanted. Feverfew repels insects of all nature, so it is a good plant to grow near entryways.

Start seeds indoors in containers in late winter, and set out seedlings in spring. You can also work with purchased seedlings, or lift and move volunteer seedlings found in the garden. Set plants at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart in all directions. They are easily recognized by their lacy leaves.

Frequent cutting of blossoms helps feverfew stay in bloom longer. Depending on climate, feverfew is a biennial or short-lived perennial. When seeds are started early, it will bloom its first year.

Feverfew can reseed too well in hospitable spaces, so keep an eye on it for invasive tendencies.

Sow indoors Feb. 1 to Apr. 1. Sow outdoors Mar. 1 to Apr. 15. Harvest Apr. 15 to June 1.


Yarrow

5 Reasons to Grow Yarrow Yarrow is a flowering herb with many uses medicinally and in the permaculture garden. Here are 5 reasons why you will benefit from growing yarrow.


Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to the dry, disturbed soils of prairies, meadows, and the edges of forest in the northern hemisphere. This perennial grows best in hardiness zones 3-9. Like many other prairie plants, its deep, fibrous roots enjoy absorbing water in my rain garden. It will grow to 36-inches high and produce white flowers. Other varieties produce pink, yellow, red, or orange flowers.

1. Yarrow Accumulates Nutrients (Fertilizer)

2. Yarrow Attracts Beneficial Insects & Pollinators

3. Yarrow makes a good Ground Cover

4. Yarrow has Medicinal Uses

5. Yarrow is Edible & Crafty

White Yarrow ~ Pink Yarrow

Five Reasons to Grow Yarrow Yarrow is a flowering herb with many uses medicinally and in the permaculture garden. Here are 5 reasons why you will benefit from growing yarrow.

Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to the dry, disturbed soils of prairies, meadows, and the edges of forest in the northern hemisphere. This perennial grows best in hardiness zones 3-9. Like many other prairie plants, its deep, fibrous roots enjoy absorbing water in my rain garden. It will grow to 36-inches high and produce white flowers. Other varieties produce pink, yellow, red, or orange flowers.

Even if you don’t grow yarrow in your garden, it is a fun herb to forage for. The fern-like foliage of yarrow can be spotted in sunny, cleared areas.

Here are five reasons why I enjoy growing yarrow in my garden.

1. Yarrow Accumulates Nutrients (Fertilizer)

Yarrow is a nutrient accumulator. According to Edible Forest Gardens, its deep roots mine the subsoil for potassium, phosphorus, and copper, making yarrow a nutrient-rich mulch.

Fruit trees: Because of its ability to fertilize, yarrow is often grown in fruit tree guilds to enhance fruit production.

Mulch & Compost: Yarrow can also be chopped and used as mulch around the garden, or added to the compost bin to boost its nutrient content.

Food Forests

In a food forest, where edible perennials like tall nut trees have recently been planted, it will be important to protect the soil until the trees have matured. A mixed cover crop can be used in this less-visited area to build soil, mine minerals, break up compacted soil, and attract beneficial insects.

In Gaia’s Garden, Toby Hemenway suggests a mixture of the following, which would only need mowed once or twice per year:

clovers
annual rye
yarrow
dill
fennel
daikon radish

For more about food forests, see Benefits of the Edible Forest Garden.

Would you like to learn more about using herbs like yarrow to improve the biodiversity of your garden, reduce maintenance, and increase yield?

You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.

Clean up Lead Contamination

Yarrow mines copper from the subsoil which is an important micronutrient for plant growth and an essential amendment for acidic soils. According to Gaia’s Garden, however, plants that mine for copper can also concentrate lead if it is present in the soil, “such as along the foundation of old houses where lead-based paint may have weathered”. A simple and inexpensive soil test can inform you about contaminated soil.

This is why yarrow and many other accumulators of copper and zinc are used to clean up lead-contaminated sites: The lead concentrates in the plants, which are dug up at the end of each season (roots and all) and disposed of. It may take more than one season to remove all of the lead, and regular soil tests are important. Because the leaves may be toxic in lead-contaminated sites, it would be important to NOT use these plants for mulching, medicinal, edible, or craft purposes.

2. Yarrow Attracts Beneficial Insects & Pollinators

Yarrow, with its white, yellow, or pink flowers, attracts many types of pollinators in search of nectar while it blooms summer through early fall. A wealth of beneficial insects such as lacewings, parasitoid wasps, ground beetles, spiders, ladybugs, and hoverflies find habitat for egg-laying or refuge for overwintering in the fern-like foliage. According to Carrots Love Tomatoes, yarrow emits a pungent odor that repels pests, and is therefore a boon to grow near pest-prone gardens.

3. Yarrow makes a good Ground Cover

If left to its own devices, yarrow will grow to about 3-feet high, producing flowers throughout the summer. However, yarrow can be grown as a running ground cover that can handle light foot traffic if it is mowed a few times a year (according to Edible Forest Gardens). Yarrow may not flower if it has been cut, but the beneficial insects will still be able to utilize the foliage for refuge.

4. Yarrow has Medicinal Uses

The flower and the upper portions of leaf and stem have many medicinal uses, making yarrow an important herb to have in your medicinal garden.

A yarrow tea can help to reduce a fever and a yarrow poultice can calm the inflammation and soreness of a bruise.

Yarrow has many first aid uses such as stopping bleeding, or as a general first aid remedy for calming and healing rashes, bug bites, bee stings, cuts, and burns.

According to Homegrown Herbs, the yellow flowers should not be taken internally, such as in teas, tinctures, elixirs, syrup, or honey. Only white or pink flower yarrows should be used for internal medicine. Also be aware that yarrow should not be taken internally by pregnant women.

5. Yarrow is Edible & Crafty

Individual flowers are edible, and Homegrown Herbs suggests using them for a confetti effect in cookie batter.

The dried cut flowers also make beautiful wreaths and dried bouquets.

Useful or not, yarrow is a joy to have in the garden!

Yarrow Care – Growing Yarrow Herb In Your Garden While often sold as a flowering perennial, yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard. Yarrow care is so easy that the plant is virtually care-free. Let’s take a look at how to plant yarrow and also tips for how to grow yarrow.

How to Plant Yarrow

Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.

You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location.

The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.

Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.

Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.

How to Grow Yarrow

Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought.

While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.

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YARROW: HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND CARE FOR YARROW Yarrow is a hardy perennial with showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers. Their fern-like leaves are often aromatic. Yarrows are easy to care for and versatile: they are good for borders, rock gardens, or wildflower meadows. These flowers are excellent for cutting or drying.

PLANTING

Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2– to 4–inch layer of compost.

Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrows thrive in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrows in rich soil, the plants may require stalking because the rich soil encourages growth.

Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.

CARE

Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.

If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.

Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.

If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.

PESTS/DISEASES

Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Stem rot

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES

Coronation Gold, for its beautiful mustard-yellow flowers and silvery gray leaves

Fanal (“The Beacon”), for its rich red flowers with yellow centers

Cerise Queen, to add some bright pink color to your garden

WIT & WISDOM

Native Americans used ground yarrow infused in water as a wash to treat sunburns. It is also sometimes used as a remedy for anxiety and stress.

Yarrow is thought to symbolize everlasting love.


Chicory [Cichorium intybus]

Chicory Common chicory, Cichorium intybus, is a somewhat woody, perennial herbaceous plant of the dandelion family Asteraceae, usually with bright blue flowers, rarely white or pink. Many varieties are cultivated for salad leaves, chicons (blanched buds), or roots (var. sativum), which are baked, ground, and used as a coffee substitute and additive. It is also grown as a forage crop for livestock. It lives as a wild plant on roadsides in its native Europe, and is now common in North America, China, and Australia, where it has become widely naturalized. "Chicory" is also the common name in the United States for curly endive (Cichorium endivia); these two closely related species are often confused.

Common chicory is also known as blue daisy, blue dandelion, blue sailors, blue weed, bunk, coffeeweed, cornflower, hendibeh, horseweed, ragged sailors, succory, wild bachelor's buttons, and wild endive.

Wild chicory leaves usually have a bitter taste. Their bitterness is appreciated in certain cuisines, such as in the Ligurian and Apulian regions of Italy and also in southern part of India along with coffee, in Catalonia, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Palestine.

In Ligurian cuisine, wild chicory leaves are an ingredient of preboggion and in Greek cuisine of horta; in the Apulian region, wild chicory leaves are combined with fava bean puree in the traditional local dish fave e cicorie selvatiche. in Albania, the leaves are used as a spinach substitute, mainly served simmered and marinated in olive oil, or as ingredient for fillings of byrek.

By cooking and discarding the water, the bitterness is reduced, after which the chicory leaves may be sautéed with garlic, anchovies, and other ingredients. In this form, the resulting greens might be combined with pasta[14] or accompany meat dishes.

History

The chicory plant is one of the earliest cited in recorded literature. Horace mentions it in reference to his own diet, which he describes as very simple: "Me pascunt olivae, me cichorea, me malvae" ("As for me, olives, endives, and mallows provide sustenance").

In 1766, Frederick the Great banned the importation of coffee into Prussia leading to the development of a coffee-substitute by Brunswick innkeeper Christian Gottlieb Förster (died 1801), who gained a concession in 1769/70 to manufacture it in Brunswick and Berlin. By 1795 there were 22 to 24 factories of this type in Brunswick. Lord Monboddo describes the plant in 1779 as the "chicoree", which the French cultivated as a pot herb.

In Napoleonic Era France, chicory frequently appeared as either an adulterant in coffee, or as a coffee substitute.

Chicory was also adopted as a coffee substitute by Confederate soldiers during the American Civil War, and has become common in the United States. It was also used in the United Kingdom during the Second World War, where Camp Coffee, a coffee and chicory essence, has been on sale since 1885.

The cultivated chicory plant has a history reaching back to ancient Egyptian time. Medieval monks raised the plants and when coffee was introduced to Europe, the Dutch thought that chicory made a lively addition to the bean drink.

In the United States chicory root has long been used as a substitute for coffee in prisons. By the 1840s, the port of New Orleans was the second largest importer of coffee (after New York). Louisianans began to add chicory root to their coffee when Union naval blockades during the American Civil War cut off the port of New Orleans, thereby creating a long-standing tradition.

A common meal in Rome, puntarelle, is made with chicory sprouts.

The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) reports that Chicory is a native plant of western Asia, North Africa and Europe.

Cichorium intybus has been declared an invasive species in several states in the USA.

Information On How To Grow Chicory Chicory plant (Cichorium intybus) is an herbaceous biennial that is not native to the United States but has made itself at home. The plant can be found growing wild in many areas of the U.S. and is used both for its leaves and its roots. Chicory herb plants are easy to grow in the garden as a cool season crop. Seeds and transplants are the primary means of growing chicory.

There are two types of chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.

Planting Chicory

Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors.

In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March.

Planting chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.

Sow chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds.

The seeds are planted ¼ inch deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.

You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.

Chicory herb plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.

How to Grow Chicory

Learning how to grow chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. Chicory requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter.

It performs best when temperatures are below 75 degrees F. (24 C.).

Extended care of the chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. Chicory plant requires 1 to 2 inches of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.

The herb is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.

Herb to Know: Chicory Hardy perennial. Chicory, also known as succory, blue-sailors and ragged-sailors, is a hardy perennial native to Eurasia but was transplanted and now grows naturally throughout North America, south to Florida and west to California. It is common along roadsides and in other wild, untamed areas, especially in limestone soils. All species in the genus Cichorium are native to Eurasia. The words chicory, succory, Cichorium and intybus are all derived from Greek or Latin names for the herb.

Chicory resembles dandelion in its deep taproot and rosette of toothed basal leaves; unlike dandelion, it puts up a stiff, hairy flower stalk clothed sparsely with small, clasping leaves. Stalks may grow 2 to 5 feet tall and branch several times. Stalkless flower heads 1 1/2 inches wide form singly or in twos or threes in the axils of the stem leaves in midsummer. They are clear blue (or, rarely, pink or white) and consist of 16 to 20 strap-like, toothed ray flowers.

Blossoms are primarily bee-pollinated and open early in the morning and close about five hours later.

Linnaeus, observing this tendency, planted chicory in his floral clock in Uppsala, Sweden. (There, the flowers opened at 5 a.m. and closed at 10 a.m.) Flowers may stay open longer on cloudy days. The herbalist Mrs. C.F. Leyel has observed that “the lovely blue color of the petals is changed into a brilliant red by the acid of ants, if placed on an ant-hill.” The plant tops make a dyestuff that produces a variety of colorfast yellows and greens, depending on the mordant used. In the language of flowers, chicory symbolizes frugality.

The second-century physician Galen called chicory a “friend of the liver,” and contemporary research has shown that it can increase the flow of bile, which could be helpful in treating gallstones. Laboratory research also has shown root extracts to be antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and slightly sedative. They also slow and weaken the pulse and lower blood sugar. Leaf extracts have similar, though weaker, effects.


Hyssop herb

Herb to Know: Hyssop Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) is a beautiful, well-behaved, easy-to-grow member of the mint family that deserves a place in any herb garden.

Older plants form neat, rounded bushes 1 to 3 feet high; younger plants are looser in form. The stiff, erect, typically square stems bear opposite, linear, medium green leaves 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. Tufts of smaller leaves are borne in the leaf axils.

Plants are evergreen where winters are mild. Clusters of six to fifteen violet-blue, pink, or white flowers in the upper leaf axils form dense spikes. The two-lipped, tubular corolla is 1/2 inch long and has four protruding stamens that match it in color. The calyx is tubular with five teeth. Plants bloom from summer to fall.

Native to southern Europe and Eurasia, hyssop came to North America with the early European colonists; the herb is listed among the seeds John Win­throp, Jr., brought to the New World in 1631. Over the years, it has escaped from gardens and is now naturalized at roadsides and in waste places here and there in North America from Quebec to Montana south to North Carolina. It is hardy in zones 3 to 10.

People perceive the odor of hyssop differently. It has been described variously as sweet, not sweet, skunky but not unpleasant, clean and aromatic with a hint of turpentine, medicinal, and minty/camphorous. Some European women are said to sniff hyssop flowers pressed in their psalm books to help them stay awake during church services.

In the “language of flowers”, hyssop symbolizes cleanliness and sacrifice, and it has been used since ancient times for ritual cleaning of holy places. (The hyssop referred to in the Bible, however, was most likely some other plant.)

Hyssop is a bee plant par excellence. Legend has it that beekeepers rubbed their hives with hyssop and other herbs to encourage bees to stay. Hyssop also attracts hummingbirds and butterflies; claims that it keeps cabbage butterflies away from crops or repels flea beetles have not been substantiated.

The names hyssop and Hyssopus come from a Semitic word for a different herb. Officinalis means “from the storeroom”, that is, the druggist’s storeroom. Although H. officinalis has no alternate common names, several other plant genera have members that bear the common name hyssop. Among these are Agastache (anise and giant hyssops), Bacopa (water hyssop), Gratiola (hedge hyssop), and Verbena (wild hyssop).

In Herbs and the Earth (1935), Henry Beston says of hyssop, “The garden has no more quietly dependable and satisfactory border plant.” His is no idle claim. Hyssop is versatile. It can be grown as a hedge or as a specimen plant. Plant it against a wall or as edging with rue in front, vervain (Verbena officinalis) behind. Contrasting foliage color, shape, and texture make purple sage a superb companion, or try gray, pebbly-leaved catmint, frosty lavender, and glossy-leaved rosemary. The gray filigree of Roman wormwood also admirably sets off the blue flowers and smooth green leaves of hyssop. Tall, wispy-leaved herbs such as dill, fennel, and anise form another kind of contrast. Hyssop is also useful for concealing the bare legs of pink- or white-flowered roses.

Hyssop is easily grown from seeds sown in March or April, or in the fall for germination the following spring. Sow the seeds 1/4 inch deep indoors or out. Germination time is 7 to 10 days. Propagate named cultivars vegetatively.

Divide established plants in spring or fall, or take cuttings in spring and root them indoors or in the shade. Hyssop may self-seed. You can move the volunteer seedlings to another spot in the garden or pot them up. Beston notes that hyssop “can be transplanted as casually as one moves a chair.”

Transplant seedlings or rooted cuttings to 1 foot apart for a hedge, 18 inches apart in the garden, and water them until they are established. But don’t overwater.

Like other Mediterranean herbs, hyssop likes a warm position and light, well-drained alkaline soil. It will tolerate soil as alkaline as pH 8. Full sun is best, but light shade will do. Plants grown in shade will be lankier. Hyssop will flower the first year from seed.

It is a good subject for pots or or a window box.

Hyssop needs no winter covering. Prune it hard in spring to encourage new growth. Pinching out the tips of the stems will promote bushier plants; however, heavy shearing of hedges will prevent flowering.

How To Grow Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis] Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) Labiatae, is a compact, bushy perennial usually grown in herb gardens, but is great in flower gardens in masses, as a hedge or border, and in pots. It is native to Europe and Asia, naturalized throughout North America.

Hyssop blooms in late summer through early autumn with flower spikes of deep blue, red, pink or white. It is a member of the mint family and has a very aromatic somewhat medicinal smell. When the leaves are crushed they have a mint like odor. Because of its medicinal smell Hyssop has a history as a cleansing herb.

In the seventh century it was scattered on floors of sick rooms. It was also used to improve the smell of kitchens. Both the leaves and flowers can be used. The leaves can be finely chopped and used in cooking to flavor salads, soups, liqueurs and stews. It cuts down on the fattiness in some dishes. Use sparingly because of its unusual flavor. The leaves and flowers can be dried for teas. Oil from the plant is used in perfumes.

Hyssop can be started in containers, indoors or outdoors. If you plant in a container make sure the pot is deep enough to accommodate a large root system. Sow seeds indoors or directly in the garden in early spring. Hyssop prefers full sun to partial shade with a well drained, even dry, soil. You can amend soil with organic matter. Sow seeds just beneath the surface, approximately ¼-inch deep.

Germination generally takes between 14 and 21 days, but can take as long as a month, so be patient. Transplant if sown indoors after all threat of frost has passed. Space between 6 inches and 12 inches apart. You can also sow the seeds outdoors in late fall for spring germination.

Hyssop usually grows to a height of 24 to 36 inches

Companion Planting
Hyssop is a good companion plant for cabbage by attracting honeybees and butterflies while repeling or distracting cabbage moth larvae and cabbage butterflies. It is also said to stimulate the growth of grapes.


Borage<

Borage Borage is a warm weather annual herb that’s a lovely fuzzy leafy addition to your textural garden. It’s great in containers, too. Full sun is best, and the more sunlight it gets the more upright and attractive it will stay, normally getting about a foot and a half tall and equally as wide. It does easily reseed each spring, so you may need to look for and remove any errant seedlings to keep it where it belongs. Its young leaves add a cucumber flavor to salads. But one great reason to plant borage is the lovely light purple, star-shaped flowers, which are not only beautiful, but also attract bees to the garden, which will be important in pollinating other plants in your garden. Deer resistant.


Garlic Chives

Garlic Chives Garlic chives really do deserve an exalted place in our gardens. These perennials will stick around with you for years, where you can snip the flat leaves to flavor your recipes. Or, just let them accent flowering perennials with their foliage.

In fall, garlic chive flowers bring on the bees, butterflies, and tiny pollinators! You can eat the flowers, too, or dry for cut flower arrangements.

As with most bulbs, well-drained soil is best, but garlic chives can take clay soils. Adding compost or other well-decomposed organic matter is also good.

Plant in part shade to sun, though not blasting sun all day. They are happy with just morning or afternoon sun for a few hours.

They tolerate drought and freeze just fine.

Divide in fall or spring to spread around or share with friends.

Deer resistant.


Bronze Fennel

Bronze Fennel Foeniculum vulgare This is a beautiful perennial herb that adds texture, color, and flavor to your garden. Even if you don’t like to cook with it, it’s a very attractive plant and a great butterfly host plant for many butterflies, including the swallowtails.

This herb gets about 3 feet tall (possibly taller, and you can cut it back) and about 18-24? wide. You don’t have to relegate it to an herb bed. Its color and texture make a beautiful accent in your perennial beds.

Give it full sun in well-drained soil. If it gets too much water or the soil is not draining properly, it is prone to rot.


Cilantro

Cilantro Cilantro’s an easy herb to grow from seed or transplants. This cool-weather annual is a perfect replacement for summer’s basil.

Fall is the perfect time to plant it from seeds or transplants. Plant seeds in October to take over when basil dies back in the first frost. From seed, it comes up really fast on our cool days and nights. Give newly planted seeds enough water to stay moist until they germinate and grow a bit; then not much water is needed. Plant seeds at two-week intervals to carry them on as long as possible. If temperatures drop below 20°, protect them with row cover.

Its feathery leaves on plants about 12-24? can be included in your perennial beds or in the vegetable garden. Harvest leaves by simply cutting what you need, but not all the way to the ground. The plant will continue to grow and produce new leaves for your next harvest. Be sure to have several plants so that you’ll have plenty of cilantro all season long. Above 85° or so, cilantro starts to bolt and flower. Keep the flowers around for beneficial insects that will pollinate your summer crops. When the seed heads brown up, harvest them as coriander for the kitchen. Or, completely dry in the house and store in a cool area to plant again next fall.

Full sunlight is fine, but so is a bit of shade, and cilantro isn’t too picky about soil.


Lemon Balm

How to Grow Lemon Balm Lemon balm’s Latin name is taken from the Greek word for bee (Melissa), and from the ancient belief that a swarm of honeybees could be attracted to an empty hive simply by placing sprigs of the plant inside. Follow these How to Grow Lemon Balm from seeds instructions and grow some wonderful “Lemony” flavour. Grow in container or contained area of the garden as this plant spreads. Latin
Melissa officinalis
Family: Lamiaceae

Difficulty
Easy

Season & Zone
Season: Cool season
Exposure: Sun or part-shade

Start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost, and transplant out or direct so in late March to mid-April.

Starting--Barely cover the tiny seeds. Use a sterilized potting soil, and keep watering to an absolute minimum – just enough to keep the medium from drying out. Germination takes 10-14 days. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant at a spacing of 45cm (18″) into the garden.

Growing--Choose a shady spot or a location where plants can be protected from midday sun. Lemon balm prefers a fertile, moist soil in a cooler part of the garden. Plants grown in partial shade will be larger and more succulent than those exposed to full sun.

Harvest--Pick leaves throughout the summer for fresh use. The aroma is rapidly lost when dried or stored.


Beebalm

Bergamot The kitchen garden is a perfect place to plant bergamot seeds. The plants will produce lovely flowers and contain herbal qualities. Call it Bergamot, Beebalm, Monarda, or Bee Mint, it’s all the same plant and it’s easy to grow from seeds.

The flowers are a magnet for hummingbirds, bees and other pollinating insects. Bergamot is a native North American plant and its aromatic leaves, which contain citronella, have traditionally been used for tea. As a bonus the purple flowers are also edible. Bergamot is a perennial that will spread generously, but can easily be contained.

How to Grow Bergamot Bergamot is also known, somewhat confusingly, as Bee Balm, Scarlet Bee-balm, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, and by its genus name, Monarda. All varieties are aromatic and highly attractive to pollinators, including hummingbirds. Pick the leaves as desired for fresh use in the kitchen. For drying, harvest leaves before the flowers open. Cut flowers for drying as soon as they’re fully open. Masses of tiered pink-purple blossoms grow from August until frost. Follow along with this handy How to Grow Bergamot herb seeds Guide and attract some pollinators to your garden.

Latin
Lemon Bergamot: Monarda citriodora, Wild Bergamot: M. fistulosa
Family: Lamiaceae

Difficulty
Easy

Season & Zone
Season: Warm season
Exposure: Full sun
Zone: Hardy from zone 5 to 10

Timing--Sow indoors late February to mid-March, or direct sow in early spring when a light frost is still possible. Seeds can also be direct sown in October. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 15-21°C (60-70°F). Seeds should sprout in 10-40 days. Bottom heat will speed germination.

Starting--Barely cover the tiny seeds with soil. Thin or space transplants 45-60cm (18-24″) apart. These vigorous perennials will grow in, closer together over time.

Growing--Any ordinary garden soil will work. Plant in full sun to partial shade. Where summers are long, plants are prone to mildew, so avoid overhead watering. Deadhead regularly to prolong the blooming period. Plants spread by rhizome growth, and should be dug and divided every three years.

Harvest--Pick the leaves as desired for fresh use in the kitchen.

Peter’s Purple bee balm--CTG Plant of the Week Peter’s Purple bee balm is one of many great Monarda species for Central Texas. ‘Peter’s Purple’ bee balm has been around a while, but it can be hard to find sometimes. Research at the Dallas Arboretum has shown it to be extremely resistant to powdery mildew, a necessary quality for survival in our landscapes. Like its relatives in the mint family, Peter’s Purple creeps easily into surrounding areas of the garden, so be prepared to dig and divide it yearly to keep it in bounds. It isn’t hard to dig up, and transplants easily, so it’s a great pass-along plant.

From late spring through late summer, Peter’s Purple will be covered in gorgeous light purple blooms that are irresistible to hummingbirds. Bees also go crazy for this plant, hence the common name: bee balm.

It is deer resistant, though!

It loves the heat and full sun, but can take light shade, and is very drought tolerant, as well as tolerant of both well-drained and clay soils. It needs a little supplemental irrigation during the hottest, driest times of the year, otherwise, be careful not to overwater.

In shady areas, Peter’s Purple will get lanky and may be unable to support its height and fall over.

Listed as hardy to Zone 6, this Monarda breezes through even the coldest Central Texas winters. It will go dormant in winter, so cut it back to return in spring.

Shooting quickly up to four feet tall, a single 4 inch transplant will also easily grow to a two foot wide clump in its first year.


Lemon Grass

Lemon Grass Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon citratu​) has become a favorite of American gardeners, althought it is best known for providing lemon flavoring to Asian cuisine. A versatile herb, slices of fresh stalks are added to salads, soups, stews, stir fries, and seafood dishes (remove the leaves just before serving). Leaves can also be dried to make teas.

Lemon Grass is easy to grow and is especially nice to plant along paths and walkways where the leaves release their fragrance when brushed by people walking by. Out in the garden, it forms a loose, vase-shaped clump to 6″ across in its first year. Treat as an annual in colder climates, or cut back plants and bring them indoors before frost to overwinter.

Lemon grass is an easy-going tropical plant that is quite happy in full sun and average garden soil. It is a tender perennial, hardy only in Zones 9-10. Where temperatures dip below 20°F in the winter, Lemon Grass should spend the summer outdoors but be brought in for the winter.

You can either plant it in the ground (after the last frost in spring) and then pot it and bring it indoors before the first fall frost, or you can grow it in a pot year round.

In the summer, give Lemon Grass full sun (6 hours minimum), water it as you do other plants in your garden, and feed it a 1/2-strength solution of a balanced (20-20-20) water soluble fertilizer regularly from April through September --monthly for plants in the ground, biweekly for container-grown plants.

In the fall, acclimate plants gradually to indoor conditions (you're essentially reversing the hardening-off process) by allowing them to spend days outdoors and bringing them in at night. Bring them in for good before they're hit by a frost.

In winter, set pots of Lemon Grass in your sunniest window, water only when the surface of the soil mix is dry to the touch, and do not fertilize. Lemon Grass tends to look the worse for wear in northern winters, no matter what you do. Don't worry--it will perk back up once it goes outdoors again in spring.

Lemon Grass forms dense clumps that can grown 2-3ft tall every 1-3 years, depending on how vigorously they are growing. they become quite woody in the center, so you may need an old pruning saw (don't use a new one--you'll quickly dull its blade) to cut the clumps into pieces. Harvest by cutting out entire culms (stems) at any time of the year. Chop them, and use them fresh.

Lemon Grass Lemongrass is a tropical grass that thrives in summer heat. It is well suited to container growing, and ideal for greenhouse cultivation.

It can be grown as a perennial in our climate, but care must be taken to control moisture in the soil over winter, and to provide protection from frost. It is somewhat challenging to grow, but the reward is fresh, strongly aromatic stalks with very minimal carbon footprint. Hopefully these helpful tips will teach you how to grow lemongrass from seed.

Latin
Cymbopogon citratus
Family: Poaceae

Difficulty
Somewhat challenging

Season & Zone
Season: Hot season
Exposure: Full sun
Zone: Not hardy

Timing--Sow seeds indoors in late winter (mid-February to early March on the coast). Transplant outdoors only when night time temperatures are steadily above 10°C (50°F).

Starting--Press the seeds gently 5mm (1/4″) into pre-moistened, sterilized seed starting mix. Use seedling trays with plastic domes, or containers sealed inside large plastic bags. Use bottom heat from a Seedling Heat Mat to maintain a soil temperature of 21°C (70°F). Keep seed trays or containers in a dark room or cupboard. Seeds should germinate in 5 to 21 days.

The trick is to maintain a moist, not wet, environment. Once seedlings appear, remove the dome or plastic bag, and move them into full sun or beneath strong, full spectrum, artificial light.

Growing--Harden seedlings off in early summer by gradually exposing them to full sun and cooler temperatures.

Transplant individual seedlings into 5 gallon (or larger) containers, and apply high nitrogen organic fertilizer like Alfalfa Meal or Blood Meal at the time of transplanting. Just mix 1/2 cup into the soil before transplanting. Keep the soil relatively moist throughout the growing period, watering at least 2 or 3 times a week – more in hot weather.

At the end of the growing season, once night time temperatures begin to approach 10°C (50°F), cut back your lemongrass plants to 15-20cm (6-8″) tall, reduce watering, and discontinue feeding. Move your plants to a bright, airy spot, protected from frost. Water only enough to keep the soil barely moist to nearly dry. If plants seem congested, consider dividing them into clumps in early spring, and potting them on. Resume watering and feeding once spring growth appears.

Harvest--Use secateurs to snip whole stalks from the base of the plant as needed. Stalks should be at least 15mm (1/2″) thick before picking. Lemongrass dries well for use as a tea, and whole stalk segments can be bundled and frozen for use in soups and curry paste all winter long.


Lavender

How to Grow Lavender The English lavender varieties we offer are variants of the species L. angustifolia. Lavandula stoechas is commonly known as Spanish lavender, and L. dentata is often referred to as French lavender. These nationality-based categories are more confusing than helpful. It’s best to know the specific variety you are looking for and track it down that way. We love all of the varieties. Comforting, beautiful to look at. Plant some of each variety for fresh lavender all season long. Follow this handy How to Grow Lavender from seeds guide.

Latin
Lavandula angustifolia
Family: Lamiaceae

Difficulty
Moderately difficult

Season & Zone
Season: Warm season
Exposure: Full sun
Zone: Perennial in Zones 5-8. Grow as an annual north of Zone 5.

Timing--Lavender germinates most evenly if seeds can be collected in the autumn and sown on the surface of a seed tray with bottom heat maintaining 4-10°C (40-50°F). The seedlings are then overwintered in a cool greenhouse or cold frame with good ventilation. Seedlings can then be potted on as needed.

Another method is to start the seeds indoors in February planting a few seeds in a few pots with sterilized seed starting mix. Dampen the mix, press the seeds into the surface, insert the pots into plastic bags, and put them in your freezer for 2-7 days. Let them come to room temperature on their own, and then use bottom heat as indicated above.

Starting--Barely cover the seed, as they germinates in 14-21 days in warm soil. Do not use a plastic lid or covering because this will make the surface of the soil too moist. If watering is necessary, water from below. If germination is low after 3-4 weeks, lower the temperature to 5-10°C (40-50°F) for 2 weeks, then raise it again. Pot up the tiny seedlings and grow them on in a protected greenhouse or windowsill to set into the garden in the spring.

Growing--Lavender prefers full sun and well drained, fertile soil. Trim plants back hard in spring, just as new growth starts – but never prune back into the woody part of the stems. This will give a rush of even growth for the first leaves and bloom. Cut back again in early autumn, but again – never into old wood.

Harvest--Gather the flowers just as they open. Dry on open trays, or by hanging in small bunches. Pick the leaves anytime to use fresh, or if you’re dehydrating lavender leaves, gather before flowering starts.


Papalo

Porophyllum ruderale Porophyllum ruderale is an herbaceous annual plant whose leaves can be used for seasoning food. The taste has been described as "somewhere between arugula, cilantro and rue." The plant is commonly grown in Mexico and South America for use in salsas. When fully grown, this plant grows to about 5 feet in height and 3 feet in diameter.

The plant is easy to grow from seed in a well drained soil, which should be allowed to dry between watering.

Having been used by many cultures, Porophyllum ruderale is known by many names, including Bolivian coriander, quillquiña (also spelled quirquiña or quilquiña), yerba porosa, killi, pápalo, tepegua, "mampuritu" and pápaloquelite. Despite the name "Bolivian coriander", this plant is not botanically related to Coriandrum sativum.

This plant is known in Mexico as pápaloquelite, commonly accompanying the famous Mexican tacos. Not all Mexicans enjoy its taste, but some find that it improves the flavor of tacos and typical Mexican salsas and soups.

In Puebla cuisine, pápalo is used as a condiment on traditional cemita sandwiches, a regional type of Mexican torta. Papalo was used in the Azteca era, but never as medicine, only as food.[citation needed]

One study claims that Papalo exhibits some health benefits such as: lowering cholesterol, lowering blood pressure, and aiding digestion.

Papalo – Heat Loving Cilantro Alternative Papalo is a fabulous, but still relatively unknown, ancient Mexican herb you should be growing. A heat-loving alternative to cilantro, its flavors are both bolder and more complex. It has been described by some as somewhere between arugula, cilantro and rue; others say it tastes like a mixture of nasturtium flowers, lime, and cilantro. Younger leaves are milder flavored, gaining pungency and complexity as they mature.

Papalo (PAH-pa-low) is known by many names; Quilquiña, Yerba Porosa, Killi, Papaloquelite and broadleaf in English. It is a member of the informal quelites (key-LEE-tays), the semi-wild greens rich in vitamins and nutrients that grow among the fields in central and South America.

These green edible plants grow without having to plant them. They sprout with the first rains or field irrigation, often providing a second or third harvest, costing no additional work but giving food and nutrition.

Other quelites include lamb’s quarters, amaranth, quinoa, purslane, epazote and Mache or corn salad.

Papalo pre-dates the introduction of cilantro to Mexico by several thousand years, which is a very interesting story all by itself. South America is thought to be the ancestral home of papalo. Cilantro is also known as Chinese parsley and was brought to Mexico in the 1500s by Chinese workers in the Spanish silver mines of southern Mexico and South America. Spain had a huge trade industry with China, exchanging silver from America for china, porcelain and various drugs – opium and hashish among them. They also imported many Chinese workers for the silver mines, as European diseases had decimated the native population which had no immunity. The Chinese workers brought along foods, herbs and spices which were familiar to them, so cilantro came to the Americas.

Papalo is sometimes called “summer cilantro” due to its heat loving character and not bolting and setting seed until the late summer or early fall.

The name Papalo originates with the Nahuatl word for butterfly, and Papaloquelite is said to mean butterfly leaf. The flowers provide nectar to feeding butterflies, while also attracting bees and other pollinators to the garden with their pollen.

Part of the aroma and flavor is seen above with the oil glands which look like spots on the underside of the leaves. Those glands produce a fragrance which repels insects from eating its leaves.

There are two different leaf shapes grown – a broadleaf and a more narrow leaf, often called poreleaf. We have found the broadleaf variety to be more palatable, quite a bit more pungent than cilantro but quite tasty.

When beginning to use papalo, start with 1/4 to 1/3 as much as the normal amount of cilantro. The flavor is much stronger and lasts longer, so a little goes a long way until you’ve gotten used to it. We grow and offer only the broadleaf variety.

When we hear about people complaining of papalo tasting of soap, detergent or having a rank or funky odor, usually they have encountered the poreleaf or narrow leafed variety. It is quite a bit more pungent than the broadleaf type, so usually comes as quite a shock to our palates.

Papalo seeds look much like dandelion seeds, with the stalk and “umbrella” to help carry them on the wind to their new home. Having the umbrella attached is very important to good seed germination, which we will show you in just a bit.

The harvested seed comes from our grower in a big clear plastic trash bag, as it just isn’t possible to harvest and clean the seeds without breaking the umbrellas off. The seeds are almost weightless, so a big bagful that you can hide behind weighs less than a pound.

A closer look at the clump of seeds. We haven’t found a better way to separate them without damaging them, so we usually pack them much like this – by the ever so gentle pinch! There are probably 30+ seeds in this photo.

Papalo is often described as having “very low and variable” germination. This is true if the seed is packed in a standard seed packet, which breaks off the umbrella from the stem. From experimenting, we have found germination will drop to around 10% if the seed is broken, but will be as high as 90% or better if the seed is intact.

This photo of papalo in our germination tray shows the proof. Using seed germination paper to keep the seed damp, there was 100% germination in less than 72 hours. In fact, the seedlings hit the lid of the germination chamber, trying to get to the light.

A close-up shows how the stem emerges from the bottom of the stalk, immediately turning vertical in growth, searching for light.

From our germination experiments, we have developed this simple but highly effective packing box. It keeps the seeds intact for planting as well as protecting them from being broken during shipping.

Young seedlings don’t have the oil glands developed yet, so they are milder in flavor and aroma than when they begin to mature. This planting is a bit thick, but it is sometimes difficult to separate the seeds without damage. In this case, just plant them thick and don’t worry about it. If desired, you can clip the unwanted or unneeded seedlings to thin them. Make sure not to pull them out, as this really disturbs the roots of the adjacent plants and seriously disrupts their growth.

Even in a very harsh spring with sustained high temperatures and punishing winds, the young papalo grows strongly. The weather effects can be seen in the drying of the leaf margins, as well as the scruffy and dry leaf appearance. The holes are not from a bug chewing on the leaves, but from the oil vaporizing from the porous oil glands. The lighter colored spots on the leaves are additional oil glands.

A fully mature papalo leaf in good growing conditions looks like this – a moderately deep, rich green with oil glands distributed across each leaf. The leaves have a medium thickness to them with a fairly substantial feel. They don’t feel delicate like some vegetable leaves, but aren’t thick and succulent either.

Touching them will release some of the aromatic oils, so you should be able to immediately experience their singularly unique aroma, even from an arm’s length away. This is the same with organically grown or home-grown cilantro – the aroma will be much more pronounced.

The seed heads start out looking much like marigold flower heads. After flowering they will set seed and begin the cycle anew. When harvesting seeds to save, make sure to clip the seed head after it has fully matured and begun to dry, but before it is completely dry. Otherwise, you will go out to the garden to collect seed to find it has all blown away!

It’s always used raw and added at the last minute, giving its signature, unique piquant flavor to dishes. It’s used in fish dishes, salsas and guacamole. There is a memorable guacamole that uses cucumbers and papalo for added depth of flavor that we can’t get enough of.

We also really like it in scrambled eggs, fresh salsas and finely diced in a strong flavored salad of spinach, arugula, mustard greens and kale. Devilled eggs take on an entirely new dimension with a couple of leaves finely diced and mixed into the filling. People always try and guess what the mystery seasoning is, and always mistake it for something else.

In restaurants in the state of Puebla in Mexico, it’s common to find a sprig of papalo in a glass jar of water on the table, next to the salt, pepper and salsas — ready to be added raw to soups, tacos, tortas or beans. The diners will take off a leaf or two and tear it up finely before sprinkling it over their meal.

How to Grow and Use Papalo (w/Recipes & Sources) When starting them as transplants make sure they are extremely warm. The germination rate is much higher if they think it is early summer. It’s easier to direct seed them in May or later, but if grown in pots I harden them off and plant them into the garden when they reach about 6″ tall. While still young I pinch off the growing tips to get them to bush out into a sturdier plant, otherwise they can be spindly and flop over. Papalo prefers full sun but I had great luck in spots that only got about 4 hours of sun a day.


Mint

How to Grow Mint Mint is a tasty, versatile herb that can spice up a fruit salad, lamb or fish dish, or even a glass of iced tea or a cocktail. Mint comes in many different varieties, each of which is easy to maintain and lasts for many years if cared for properly.

The plant is fairly invasive, however, and may compete with surrounding plants for resources if allowed to grow without restriction. To grow mint, you either need to plant it in containers or find a method of restricting the growth of its roots below ground.

Acquiring the Mint

Take a cutting from a pre-existing mint plant. Mint is difficult to grow from seed, and it is virtually impossible for some varieties, like peppermint.


Cut a 4 inch (10 cm) sprig about ½ inch (1 cm) above a junction to allow new branches to grow in its place. The sprig does not need to have many leaves, and almost any sprig will do.

Place the sprig in a glass of water, and remove any leaves that fall below the water line.

Within a week, small white roots should appear under water. Wait a few more days to another week to allow the roots to develop into a decent length.

Add water to the glass as necessary. Make sure that you change the water every four to five days to prevent rot.

OR Purchase a mint seedling or small mint plant. You can find mint seedlings at most nurseries and garden stores. There are many varieties of mint, such as sweet mint, chocolate mint, spearmint, lemon mint, apple mint, and peppermint. Spearmint is most commonly used for cooking. Mint is a fast-growing, fast-spreading plant and is perfect for one of your first attempts at growing plants.

Planting the Mint

Ideally, you should plant your mint in the spring, or in the fall if you're in a climate that is free of frost. Though mint is a resilient plant, it's best to start growing it under optimal conditions.

PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING MINT Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste.

"If any man can name … all the varieties of mint, he must know how many fish swim in the Indian Ocean.” –Walafrid Strabo (c. 808–849)

Mints are vigorous perennials that thrive in light soil with good drainage.

Ideally, they prefer a moist but well-drained site, something like their native habitat along stream banks.

Most will tolerate some shade, and the variegated types may require some protection from direct sun.

For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.

For best growth in confined areas such as containers, topdress plants with a thin layer of compost or organic fertilizer every few months. Aboveground pots will need winter protection in cold climates.

In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.

At first, mints develop into well-behaved–looking bushy, upright clumps, but they soon set out to conquer new territory with horizontal runners and underground rhizomes. Unless you block the advance, a pert peppermint plant can turn into a sprawling 4-foot giant in just 1 year.

It’s not the stuff of horror movies, however. Mints benefit from picking and pruning.

They are shallow-rooted and easy to pull out, so there’s no reason to worry, as long as you provide physical barriers such as walls, walkways, or containers.

Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters. Mint is also considered a deer-resistant plant.

Frequent harvesting is the key to keeping mint plants at their best.

Young leaves have more flavor than old ones, and mint can be harvested as soon as it comes up in spring.

Although fresh is best and sprigs keep for a few days in water, mint leaves can be frozen or air-dried in bunches. Right before flowering, cut the stems 1 inch from the ground.

You can harvest one mint plant two or three times in one growing season.

You can also just pick the leaves as you need them.

You can grow the plants indoors for fresh leaves throughout the winter. If you want to dry them, it’s best to cut the leaves right before flowering. Store the dried leaves in an airtight container.

The best way to propagate mints is by taking cuttings from those that you like best. It’s easy—take 6-inch cuttings of rooted stems and plant them horizontally in the soil.

Mint stems will also root in a glass of water. Start with a small cutting from an established plant.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES

Apple/Pineapple Mint: Mentha suaveolens
Corsican Mint: Mentha requienii
Pennyroyal: Mentha pulegium
Peppermint: Mentha x piperita
Citrus Mint: Mentha x piperita var. citrata
Spearmint: Mentha spicata

To relieve a tension headache, apply a compress of mint leaves to your forehead.

Mint is a symbol for virtue.

Make Flavor Cubes by freezing trays of strong mint tea, then use the ice cubes for your drinks!

Growing Mint The mint family offers a tremendous diversity of refreshing scents and flavors for cooking, beverages, and potpourris. Bumblebees and other pollinators are attracted to the delicate flowers that appear in mid- to late summer. Some varieties sport variegated foliage for added interest in the herb garden.

Mints for Your Garden

Spearmint (Mentha spicata) makes a soothing tea, and is a key ingredient in mint juleps. It's also the mint of mint jelly, and can be use to highlight flavors in a fruit salad or grain pilaf. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet tail and blossom in pale violet mid- to late summer. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is more pungent than spearmint, which tends to the sweet side. Peppermint grows to 3 feet tall, bearing smooth leaves 1 to 3 inches long. But the bouquet is bigger than these two familiar flavors. In catalogs and garden centers, you can find apple mint, chocolate mint, orange mint, and many others.

Growing and Harvesting Mints

Mint can be terribly invasive, particularly in rich, moist soil. To keep it from overtaking your yard, confine it to a bed with edging of metal or plastic. Bury edging to a depth of 14 inches around the perimeter of the mint patch, or simply grow the plants it in pots.

A single plant is plenty for a small garden, as it will quickly spread to fill its allotted space. Choose a sunny location with moderately fertile, humusy soil. Use a light mulch to retain moisture and keep leaves clean.

Once plants are growing vigorously, you can harvest young or mature leaves. Don't be afraid to cut the plants back frequently to promote fresh growth. Rusty spots on leaves indicate a fungal infection; pick and destroy blemished leaves and propagate new plants from uninfected cuttings to cultivate in a new location. You can dry mint leaves on trays or by hanging bunched branches upside down in a warm, dark, well-ventilated area, such as an airy attic or outbuilding. Fresh leaves are easy to freeze too.


Plantain

Plantago major Plantago major (broadleaf plantain, white man's foot, or greater plantain) is a species of flowering plant in the plantain family Plantaginaceae.

The plant is native to most of Europe and northern and central Asia, but has widely naturalised elsewhere in the world.

Plantago major is one of the most abundant and widely distributed medicinal crops in the world.

A poultice of the leaves can be applied to wounds, stings, and sores in order to facilitate healing and prevent infection. The active chemical constituents are aucubin (an anti-microbial agent), allantoin (which stimulates cellular growth and tissue regeneration), and mucilage (which reduces pain and discomfort).

Plantain has astringent properties, and a tea made from the leaves can be ingested to treat diarrhea and soothe raw internal membranes.

Broadleaf plantain is also a highly nutritious wild edible, that is high in calcium and vitamins A, C, and K. The young, tender leaves can be eaten raw, and the older, stringier leaves can be boiled in stews and eaten.

Plantago major grows in lawns and fields, along roadsides, and in other areas that have been disturbed by humans. It does particularly well in compacted or disturbed soils. It is believed to be one of the first plants to reach North America after European colonisation. Reportedly brought to the Americas by Puritan colonizers, plantain was known among some Native American peoples by the common name "white man's footprint", because it thrived in the disturbed and damaged ecosystems surrounding European settlements.

The ability of plantain to survive frequent trampling and colonize compacted soils makes it important for soil rehabilitation. Its roots break up hardpan surfaces, while simultaneously holding together the soil to prevent erosion.

Guide to Growing Plantain Native to Europe and tolerant of a wide range of conditions, Plantain has traditionally been used to relieve diarrhea, treat lung conditions, and similar conditions relating to excess bleeding and inflammation. Humble and hardy, Plantain is classified as a diuretic, alternative, astringent and vulnerary and is commonly used topically to assist with burns, cuts, scrapes, bites and other mild external injuries. A mainstay of traditional European Herbalism.

Greater Plantain is low to the ground and will grow to a height of approximately 8-12" showing tiny white flowers.

Plantain prefers full sun to partial shade and will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, including rocks and sand.

MAINTAINING--Plantain is adaptable to a wide range of growing conditions and

can be direct sown outdoors in mid-spring, or

started indoors in early spring and transplanted out in late spring.

Germination rates can be enhanced with a one week period of cold stratification prior to sowing.


Sage

Planting Sage Seeds Direct seed in spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Sow 2-3 seeds 1/4" deep in individual containers, thinning to one after germination. Plant 6-12 inches apart.

Sage Seeds Sage is a delight in the garden. Planting sage seeds provides you with a beautiful, undemanding ornamental shrub with blue/green leaves. The aroma of sage is often associated with fall recipes. It is a perfect match for beans, squash, sausages and poultry.

Plant sage seeds indoors, in spring with bottom heat and then plant out seedlings in a sunny, well drained location when summer has arrived. Exercise some patience as it can take several weeks for germination. Once sage has become established it is carefree and will provide plenty of leaves for fresh use or for drying.

Sage, Broadleaf Sage is an aromatic perennial plant that is actually part of the mint family. The plant produces grayish-green leaves that are used in many popular food dishes, most notably in the preparation of sausages.

- Natural mosquito repellent.

- The leaves can also be used as a digestive and nerve tonic.

- Excellent as a border plant around the garden.

- Grows well in containers.

- Easy to grow from seed and can be sowed directly in the garden.

Day to Maturity | 75 days

Plant seeds inside 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside.

PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING SAGE Almanac. Sage is a hardy perennial with soft, grayish green leaves. Its flower colors vary; they can be purple, pink, blue, or white. Common sage is used most commonly for cooking; it’s a classic in stuffing.


PLANTING

Sage can grow from seeds, but the best way to grow high-quality sage is from cuttings from an established plant.

You can start the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost.

Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil 1 to 2 weeks before the last spring frost.

Plant the seeds/cuttings 24 to 30 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be between 60º and 70ºF. Plants should grow to be between 12 and 30 inches in height.

In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, and carrots, but keep sage away from cucumbers.

CARE

Be sure to water the young plants regularly until they are fully grown so that they don’t dry out.

Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring.

It’s best to replace the plants every 4 to 5 years to ensure the best quality.

WIT & WISDOM: Anyone who has sage planted in their garden is reputed to do well in business.

Growing Sage Common sage takes the form of a low shrub that can be wider than it is tall. The soft gray-green foliage is great in pots or the garden. Consider planting and growing sage in a container with rosemary, basil, and other Mediterranean herbs for a fragrant mix. While cooks appreciate the distinctive taste and scent of sage, gardeners also enjoy its velvety, evergreen foliage, and delicate blooms.

If you live in zones 5 to 8, your sage will grow as a hardy perennial. However, in the humid climes of zones 9 and farther south, sage is usually an annual, as it does not easily tolerate summer heat and humidity.


Set out plants in spring or fall, planting seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart. Choose a sunny spot in well-drained soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If you have clay soil, add sand and organic matter to lighten up soil and provide better drainage.

Prune plants back in early spring every year, cutting out the oldest growth to promote new growth. You will begin to see little pink or purple flowers in late spring. Even with pruning, plants can get woody and stop producing lots of branches after 3 to 5 years. At this point, you may want to dig up your original and plant a new one.

Mildew is a problem for sage, so thin plants regularly to encourage air circulation. Watch carefully on the hottest, most humid summer days. You can also mulch with pebbles to help keep the area immediately around the leaves dry. The moisture from pebbles evaporates quickly compared to organic mulches.

Kitchen Sage Sage will grow almost anywhere, but it provides the tastiest leaf when it receives a lot of sunlight. This evergreen shrub is hardy from zone four through 11, and because of its affinity for well-drained garden soil, it performs well in containers. I have a couple of sage plants dedicated for culinary use, nestled alongside my carrots and tomatoes. I also have a few more planted within the landscaping.

Resist the temptation to over-fertilize; the sage might grow a little faster, but its flavor will be less intense.

Wait until the soil is dry to give it a thorough watering.

Symbolizes success.


Shiso

Shiso seed Distinct flavor and aroma, spiciness of cumin. Also known as Perilla.

7-21 days to germination. Direct seed [recommended]: store seed in freezer for best germination. Sow in spring after last frost. Show seeds shallowly or cover lightly.


Tansy

Tansy is a perennial, herbaceous flowering plant of the aster family, native to temperate Europe and Asia. It has been introduced to other parts of the world including North America, and in some areas has become invasive. Wikipedia

Scientific name: Tanacetum vulgare

Higher classification: Tanacetum

Common Tansy: Tips For Controlling Tansy Weeds Tansy is an herbaceous perennial plant, often deemed as a weed. Tansy plants are common in the United States, particularly temperate regions. The scientific name for common tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, may be an assertion to its toxic properties and invasive nature. If you are wondering, “what is tansy,” you have probably seen it frequently.

Tansy plants are found growing wild in meadows, roadsides, ditches and other natural areas. The weedy herb is also an attractive flowering addition to a cottage or wildflower garden, but watch out or the plant will spread to unwanted areas. Keep an eye on the plant and learn methods on how to keep tansy from taking over the garden.

The plant may get three to four feet tall and sports button-like yellow flowers on top of stiff stems. The leaves are ferny and alternate on reddish purple stems. The flowers grow in clusters and are from ¼ to ½ inch in diameter.

Common tansy plants reproduce prolifically from seed or rhizomes. Using tansy in landscaping borders with other flowers combines its ease of care with the sunny blooms for an upbeat perennial plant.

Tansy plants need little supplemental care, other than the occasional watering. Their hardiness means they thrive in most areas of the country but they can become a nuisance if not managed carefully.

The plant was once an important part of herb gardens and used to treat colds and fevers. Crushed seeds emit a strong odor and the oil has powerful properties, which may become toxic if ingested in large quantities.

Tansy will spread quickly from its seed and less invasively from rhizomes. The seed is viable in soil for quite some time, so it is best to cut off the flower heads before they turn into seeds.

Tips On Growing Tansy Herbs Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a European perennial herb that was once used heavily in natural medicine. It has become naturalized in many parts of North America and is even considered a noxious weed in areas like Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, and Washington State. Despite this, tansy is a pretty little plant that adds potassium to soil while repelling several annoying insect species. Once you have tansy seeds, however, learning how to grow tansy will be the least of your problems. This plant is a prolific re-seeder and can become quite a nuisance in some gardens.

The herb garden was the center of the home in the Middle Ages and eras prior. Today’s tansy uses in the garden are much more limited due to modern pharmaceuticals and different tastes over the years. However, this forgotten herb provides ornamental appeal and still packs all the medicinal and culinary wallop of the past. It is up to us to rediscover the healthy, natural tricks of our ancestors and decide for ourselves if herbal lore is useful to us today or simply an attractive addition to the perennial garden.

Tansy herb plants are easy to grow and have lovely flowers and foliage. They are rhizomatous perennial members of the Daisy family and may achieve 3 to 4 feet in height. The foliage is attractive with delicate fern-like leaves; however, they smell rather strongly and are not an aromatic delight. Tiny yellow button-like blooms appear in late summer into fall.

Unlike most daisy members, the flowers lack ray petals and are instead discs of less than 3/4 of an inch in width. These are the source of the seeds, which have become a nuisance in many northwest gardens. Numerous fine seeds are produced on the numerous flower heads and readily germinate and start new plants. If any tansy plant info is taken away from this reading, it should be the importance of deadheading to prevent a rampant takeover of the plant in your garden.

tansy herb plants are unfussy, reliable perennials that thrive in any area with at least 6 hours of sunlight. This makes them perfect for either full or partial sun locations.

Once established, tansy is drought tolerant and thrives in a variety of soils. In early spring, cut plants back to within a few inches of the ground to force compact growth and a clean appearance.

If growing tansy herbs from seed, plant in fall in well worked soil to allow seed to experience cold stratification.


Wormwood

Wormwood [Artemisia absinthium] Artemisia absinthium (absinthe, absinthium, absinthe wormwood, wormwood) is a species of Artemisia, native to temperate regions of Eurasia[5] and Northern Africa and widely naturalized in Canada and the northern United States.[6] It is grown as an ornamental plant and is used as an ingredient in the spirit absinthe as well as some other alcoholic drinks. Wikipedia

Grows 2.5 to 4 feet tall. The leaves are spirally arranged, greenish-grey above and white below, covered with silky silvery-white trichomes, and bearing minute oil-producing glands. Its flowers are pale yellow, tubular, and clustered in spherical bent-down heads (capitula), which are in turn clustered in leafy and branched panicles. Flowering is from early summer to early autumn; pollination is anemophilous. The fruit is a small achene; seed dispersal is by gravity.

Cultivation

The plant can easily be cultivated in dry soil. It should be planted under bright exposure in fertile, mid-weight soil. It prefers soil rich in nitrogen. It can be propagated by ripened cuttings taken in Spring or Autumn in temperate climates, or by seeds in nursery beds. Artemisia absinthium also self-seeds generously. It is naturalised in some areas away from its native range, including much of North America and Kashmir Valley of India.

Wormwood: The Parasite-Killing, Cancer-Fighting Super Herb

The Benefits of Wormwood: A Harmful Organism Cleanser

Wormwood Plant – Growing Sweet Annie There are many varieties of Artemisia, also known as mugwort and wormwood plant. One of the most common varieties grown for its sweet-smelling, silvery foliage is sweet wormwood (A. annua) or sweet Annie plant. Growing sweet Annie and other wormwood plants is easy. They make interesting additions to nearly any garden as they’re quite adaptable and hardy plants. In fact, some varieties are even considered invasive if not kept properly maintained.

Grow wormwood or sweet Annie plant in a sunny location and well-drained soil. This plant doesn’t like being overly wet. Wormwood is generally planted in spring. If starting plants from seeds, sow the small seeds 2/15-4/1] in flats and set the seedlings out in the garden well after the last frost in spring [4/1].

Once established, wormwood plants require little care. In addition to occasional watering, these plants can be fertilized once a year. Light pruning can be performed to help keep these plants from becoming unruly, especially the spreading varieties. Wormwood plants are not typically affected by many disease problems, other than root rot from overly wet soil. Their scented foliage also deters many garden pests [mosquitos].


Tansy

Tansy is a perennial, herbaceous flowering plant of the aster family, native to temperate Europe and Asia. It has been introduced to other parts of the world including North America, and in some areas has become invasive. Wikipedia

Scientific name: Tanacetum vulgare

Higher classification: Tanacetum

Common Tansy: Tips For Controlling Tansy Weeds Tansy is an herbaceous perennial plant, often deemed as a weed. Tansy plants are common in the United States, particularly temperate regions. The scientific name for common tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, may be an assertion to its toxic properties and invasive nature. If you are wondering, “what is tansy,” you have probably seen it frequently.

Tansy plants are found growing wild in meadows, roadsides, ditches and other natural areas. The weedy herb is also an attractive flowering addition to a cottage or wildflower garden, but watch out or the plant will spread to unwanted areas. Keep an eye on the plant and learn methods on how to keep tansy from taking over the garden.

The plant may get three to four feet tall and sports button-like yellow flowers on top of stiff stems. The leaves are ferny and alternate on reddish purple stems. The flowers grow in clusters and are from ¼ to ½ inch in diameter.

Common tansy plants reproduce prolifically from seed or rhizomes. Using tansy in landscaping borders with other flowers combines its ease of care with the sunny blooms for an upbeat perennial plant.

Tansy plants need little supplemental care, other than the occasional watering. Their hardiness means they thrive in most areas of the country but they can become a nuisance if not managed carefully.

The plant was once an important part of herb gardens and used to treat colds and fevers. Crushed seeds emit a strong odor and the oil has powerful properties, which may become toxic if ingested in large quantities.

Tansy will spread quickly from its seed and less invasively from rhizomes. The seed is viable in soil for quite some time, so it is best to cut off the flower heads before they turn into seeds.

Tips On Growing Tansy Herbs Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a European perennial herb that was once used heavily in natural medicine. It has become naturalized in many parts of North America and is even considered a noxious weed in areas like Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, and Washington State. Despite this, tansy is a pretty little plant that adds potassium to soil while repelling several annoying insect species. Once you have tansy seeds, however, learning how to grow tansy will be the least of your problems. This plant is a prolific re-seeder and can become quite a nuisance in some gardens.

The herb garden was the center of the home in the Middle Ages and eras prior. Today’s tansy uses in the garden are much more limited due to modern pharmaceuticals and different tastes over the years. However, this forgotten herb provides ornamental appeal and still packs all the medicinal and culinary wallop of the past. It is up to us to rediscover the healthy, natural tricks of our ancestors and decide for ourselves if herbal lore is useful to us today or simply an attractive addition to the perennial garden.

Tansy herb plants are easy to grow and have lovely flowers and foliage. They are rhizomatous perennial members of the Daisy family and may achieve 3 to 4 feet in height. The foliage is attractive with delicate fern-like leaves; however, they smell rather strongly and are not an aromatic delight. Tiny yellow button-like blooms appear in late summer into fall.

Unlike most daisy members, the flowers lack ray petals and are instead discs of less than 3/4 of an inch in width. These are the source of the seeds, which have become a nuisance in many northwest gardens. Numerous fine seeds are produced on the numerous flower heads and readily germinate and start new plants. If any tansy plant info is taken away from this reading, it should be the importance of deadheading to prevent a rampant takeover of the plant in your garden.

tansy herb plants are unfussy, reliable perennials that thrive in any area with at least 6 hours of sunlight. This makes them perfect for either full or partial sun locations.

Once established, tansy is drought tolerant and thrives in a variety of soils. In early spring, cut plants back to within a few inches of the ground to force compact growth and a clean appearance.

If growing tansy herbs from seed, plant in fall in well worked soil to allow seed to experience cold stratification.


Rosemary

PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING ROSEMARY PLANTS Farmer's Almanac. Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is a pungent and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants.

Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry wall. It is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.

PLANTING

For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost [Apr. 1].

Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.

Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary grows to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well. In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.

CARE

After the rosemary plant flowers, remember to trim the plant.

For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and cool temperatures.

Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.

Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season.

Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season.

Harvest young stems and leaves for the freshest taste.

Harvest up to a third of the rosemary at any one time, allowing the plant to replace its growth before taking more.

Rosemary tea is said to enhance one’s memory.

Growing Rosemary With the right soil and water conditions, rosemary can grow into a large evergreen hedge in warm areas. Placed along a path or border, it wafts a soothing aroma to those who pass by.


Rosemary is a woody-stemmed plant with needle-like leaves that can commonly reach 3 feet in height, eventually stretching to 5 feet in warmer climates unless clipped. In zone 8 and farther south, rosemary makes a good evergreen hedge. In zone 7 and colder, try growing rosemary in a container you can bring inside in cold weather. You can even train rosemary into topiary shapes. Plants are tolerant of salt spray, making them a good choice for pots on the beach.

Set out rosemary in spring, planting seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart; you can also plant in fall in zone 8 and south.

Plants are slow growing at first, but pick up speed in their second year.

While rosemary tolerates partial shade, it prefers full sun and light, well-drained soil with a pH between 6 and 7.

Add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil at planting, and reapply in the spring.

Keep the soil uniformly moist, allowing it to dry out between waterings.

Mulch your plants to keep roots moist in summer and insulated in winter, but take care to keep mulch away from the crown of the plant.

In the spring, prune dead wood out of the plants.

How to Grow Rosemary Rosemary and its cultivars are best started from plants. When grown from seed, germination is slow with variable results. Plants can be set out in the spring when the weather has warmed in zones 1 through 9, and in spring or fall in zone 10.

All rosemaries require full sun, but in the warmer climates they will accept some light shade. They thrive in a light, well-drained, average garden soil with a pH range of 5 to 8. During the growing season, pinch back growth tips two or three inches to promote bushy plants; cut back hard only in early spring to allow the new growth time to mature.

Most rosemary varieties are reliably hardy to only 20°F (zone 9); however, gardeners in cold-winter areas can successfully grow rosemary indoors in a container with a fast-draining potting soil. Bring the plants indoors at least several weeks before your area's first frost date. Feed the potted rosemary regularly with fish emulsion and provide good air circulation to ward off harmful mildew.


Fall Info & To Do

Which Herbs to Plant for Fall Basil: Pull out of ground to make space for fall herbs and perennials. Bell Pepper Basil is the only perennial basil. Grows to be a large plant, and likes the shade. Honey bee magnet in the fall.

Cilantro is a fall/winter herb. Also, lovage [celery relative], the parsleys [great pollinators]--flat leaf is better for cooking. Dills, fennels, garlic chives [great bloomers; self seed], onion chives [much slower growing].

Oregano, thyme, rosemary are evergreen here and great landscape plants. Dorf myrtle, a great boxwood substitute; the flowers are frangrant as well as the foliage. Can also be substituted for rosemary.

Santolina is also evergreen here. Fragrant yellow flowers in the spring. Mounding growth habit.

More perennials: Provence lavender. Navella R. Sage, bushy, likes shade and evergreen here.


Planting Time References

White Flower Farm See plant descr. then click on Growing guide

West Coast Seeds see plant descr. then go to Growing Guides

Johnny's Select Seeds


Timing

Plant Hardiness:

By Zip 1st freeze 11/12... last freeze 3/20

USDA 8b 1st freeze 12/1... last freeze 3/1

Rainbow Gardening by the Month


Comfrey

Comfrey articles in my vegetable page


Comfrey articles in my permaculture page

Comfrey articles in my herb page


Growing Comfrey - A Useful and Ornamental HerbComfrey is a tall, easy to care for perennial plant that is often grown simply for its beauty. However, comfrey was once grown as a popular medicinal herb. We have recently learned that it can be carcinogenic when taken internally, but it is still used as a topical treatment for skin irritations, cuts, sprains and swelling and as livestock feed and making compost.


Comfrey

Comfrey plants shoot up quickly, early in the season, and can easily reach heights of around 5 feet.

The lower leaves are equally large, somewhat dwarfing the hanging clusters of flowers at the top of the plant. The form and size of the plants might have you thinking it is a shrub, but it will die back to the ground in the winter and it does not get woody. Comfrey is in the same family as borage, a smaller plant with a similar structure.

Because of its deep tap root, Comfrey is extremely drought tolerant and a useful clay busting plant.

Flowers: Violet, pink or creamy yellow flowers born on forked cymes.

Botanical Name: Symphytum officinale. Bloom Period: Comfrey flowers bloom late spring / early summer. Hardiness Zone: Comfrey is reliably perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 - 9.

Comfrey Growing Tips:

Soil: Comfrey is widely adapted but it will thrive in a rich organic soil. As with all rapid growers, comfrey needs a lot of nitrogen. Comfrey gets all its nitrogen from the soil, so some type of regular organic matter is essential. However it is not particular about soil pH. A neutral to acidic range of 6.0 - 7.0 is ideal.

When starting several comfrey plants,it is more common to use root cuttings. These are 2-6 inch lengths of root which are planted horizontally 2-8 inch deep.

Plant shallowly in clay soil and deeper in sandy soils.

You can also grow comfrey from crown cuttings, but these will be more expensive. A crown cutting will include several eyes and may grow faster than root cuttings, however the difference is negligible. Crown cuttings are planted 3-6 inches deep.

Once comfrey is established it will take care of itself. Each year the plant will get a little larger and the root system will get more dense. It is very hard to get rid of an established comfrey plant. Comfrey can live several decades before it begins to decline.

If you are growing it to harvest the leaves, you can make your first cutting when the plants are about 2 ft.tall. Cut back to within a few inches of the crow. However if you begin harvesting early, you will not get any flowers.

Leaves, flowers and roots have all been used in traditional medicine, but use extreme caution if you do not know what you are doing. Comfrey should never be taken orally and even a topical application can cause problems.

One of the safest and easiest uses of comfrey is as a mulch for other crops. Comfrey leaves will slowly release all their nutrients their long tap roots pulled up from the soil. The are especially good around plants that like a little extra potassium, like fruits and tomatoes.



Horseherb - Calyptocarpus vialis (Straggler daisy)

Straggler Daisy Calyptocarpus vialis Less. Straggler daisy, Horseherb, Hierba del caballo, Lawnflower Asteraceae (Aster Family)

Depending on your point of view, Straggler Daisy or Horseherb is a pest or a welcome, shade-tolerant groundcover that tolerates moderate foot traffic. If you have a shady lawn anywhere within its range, you probably already have it. It gained in popularity during the growth in interest in native plants and is now occasionally available for sale at native plant nurseries (though it is so easy to propagate that you can easily grow it on your own). Thriving in sun or shade, its tiny, yellow daisy flowers add a minute touch of color to shady areas and attract small butterflies like sulfurs and skippers.


Calyptocarpus vialis: Horseherb; Straggler daisy

Because it is dormant in cold winters, mix with cool-season spring annuals and evergreens for continuous color. In central Texas, Baby Blue-eyes (Nemophila phacelioides), Widows Tears (Commelina spp.), False Dayflower (Tinantia anomala), Violet Ruellia (Ruellia nudiflora), and sedges (Carex spp.) are good companion plants for shady areas.

Love It or Leave It: Horseherb Ah, Horseherb (Calyptocarpus vialis), also called Straggler Daisy. There doesn’t seem to be much of a gray area on this one. People either truly love this little groundcover or hate it with a passion. I’m of the former variety. I adore this little plant.


Calyptocarpus vialis: Horseherb; Straggler daisy

Why do I love it? If you’ve ever walked past a field of horseherb, you are presented with an incredibly lush sea of green, with the daintiest of little yellow flowers throughout to catch your eye. I’ve seen some gorgeous fields, and each time I was mesmerized by the beauty and serenity of the scene.

I almost don’t want to walk on it — it’s so pretty in appearance — but for a non-lawn groundcover, it can withstand some foot traffic. It only needs water in the worst of droughts, and it loves shade and sun.


Calyptocarpus vialis: Horseherb; Straggler daisy

Horseherb is also native to the southern U.S. on into Central America, and it makes a great alternative to the exotic and water-hogging Bermuda and St. Augustine grasses. I’d love to see it replace Asian jasmine, as well — now THAT is a plant that will take over a garden bed and yard. Horseherb is considered semi-evergreen, blooming most of the year except in cold winter areas, and if you like you can mow it, or you can let it grow to its typical max height, which is about 8 inches. But as bonus, horseherb also attracts small butterflies, including sulfurs and skippers. And think of all the happy little lizards that will zip underneath the foliage!

It’s an eco-friendly solution to having a lawn without having to resort to heavy chemicals or fertilizers or ridiculous amounts of water to sustain it. Lawn irrigation tops the list on where our municipal water goes, and the time for water conservation is now, especially in Texas.

Why do some people want to leave it? Well, in some yards it can be a big nuisance. For those who keep a grass lawn, horseherb is a competitor, and it can be difficult to get rid of. And it can spread into garden beds, though I’ve found that so far it doesn’t bother much with my well-mulched beds. In fact, one of the characteristics of this plant is that it supposedly doesn’t do well in areas that have heavy leaves that take a long time to decompose.


Calyptocarpus vialis: Horseherb; Straggler daisy

But for now I prefer to embrace its desire to spread. What I loathe is the Bermuda Grass and St. Augustine in my yard. I loathe the unnamed weeds that dominate my backyard. I love my buffalograss in the back, but it too is losing to the weeds, and in the drought, the buffalograss was dead most of the time, so I didn’t end up loving it as much as I wanted to – I loved it when I could see it.

Comment: Iris/Society Garlic, Austin on October 2, 2009 at 12:00 pm said: I love it! It took us 7+ years, but we no longer have any grass lawn and do not own a lawnmower. Horseherb is our primary groundcover in our xeriscaped front yard garden and also in back surrounding the veggie raised beds. In the full-sun front yard, it got crispy and brown this summer but is coming back like crazy now. The few times it’s encroached on a flower bed, it was easy to yank out and keep away with mulch. Your post says it all.

Horseherb or Straggler Daisy Calyptocarpus vialis

Calyptocarpus vialis Less.

Straggler daisy, Horseherb, Hierba del caballo, Prostrate Lawnflower, creeping Cinderella-weed

Asteraceae (Aster Family)

Depending on your point of view, Straggler Daisy or Horseherb is a pest or a welcome, shade-tolerant groundcover that tolerates moderate foot traffic. If you have a shady lawn anywhere within its range, you probably already have it. It gained in popularity during the growth in interest in native plants and is now occasionally available for sale at native plant nurseries (though it is so easy to propagate that you can easily grow it on your own). Thriving in sun or shade, its tiny, yellow daisy flowers add a minute touch of color to shady areas and attract small butterflies like sulfurs and skippers.

Horseherb draws many butterflies, like the Dogface and the Variegated Fritillary ~

Because it is dormant in cold winters, mix with cool-season spring annuals and evergreens for continuous color. In central Texas, Baby Blue-eyes (Nemophila phacelioides), Widows Tears (Commelina spp.), False Dayflower (Tinantia anomala), Violet Ruellia (Ruellia nudiflora), and sedges (Carex spp.) are good companion plants for shady areas.

Plant Characteristics

Duration: Perennial
Habit: Herb, Forb
Leaf Retention: Semi-evergreen
Leaf Arrangement: Opposite
Fruit Type: Achene
Size Notes: 6-12 inches high
Leaf: medium green
Size Class: 0-1 foot

Bloom Information

Bloom Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Mar , Apr , May , Jun , Jul , Aug , Sep , Oct , Nov
Bloom Notes: Will bloom year-round in frost-free regions.

Distribution

USA: AL , AR , AZ , FL , GA , HI , LA , NM , TX

Native Distribution: Native to eastern Mexico and south to south-central Texas. Non-native elsewhere in Texas and USA. Native Habitat: Woodlands, fields, meadows, often in disturbed soils

Growing Conditions

Water Use: Low, Medium
Light Requirement: Sun, Part Shade, Shade
Soil Moisture: Dry, Moist
Drought Tolerance: High
Heat Tolerant: yes

Soil Description: Well-drained sand, loam, clay, caliche, calcareous preferred

Conditions Comments: It is evergreen in areas with mild or no winter, deciduous in areas with cold winters. Sometimes struggles with heavy fallen tree leaves that don’t decompose quickly.

Benefit

Use Ornamental: A good shade groundcover with small, yellow daisy flowers. Also does well in full sun.

Use Wildlife: Attracts small butterflies and especially the Bordered Patch (Chlosyne lacinia) which is a North and South American butterfly in the family Nymphalidae. It is sometimes also called the Sunflower Patch. Straggler Daisy, Calyptocarpus vialis, is a host plant for the Bordered Patch butterfly.

See: http://the-grackle.blogspot.com/2010/07/plants-straggler-daisy.html

Edible: The City of Austin's Native and Adapted Landscape Plants says that is "somewhat deer resistant", which might indicate that it isn't very tasty—at least not to deer. You probably wouldn't get violently ill if you tried some (if it were deadly poisonous, I feel sure it would appear in at least one of those toxic databases), but you could possibly have some unpleasant reaction to it.

Interesting Foliage: yes

Nectar Source: yes

Propagation
Propagation Material: Root Division, Seeds

Description: Easily propagated by cuttings or divisions. Though this species may be propagated by seed, it is rarely done because the seeds are difficult to collect in quantity. Seeds are rarely if ever commercially available.

HOW TO EASILY “SEED” AN AREA: Simply find a fast growing, blooming stand of Horseherb and mow it periodically using a lawnmower with a grass catcher attachment. Then thinly spread the Horseherb catchings (clippings) onto the area to be planted. Let the clippings dry for a few days then water or let the next rainfall germinate the very small seed which were collected during mowing. Horseherb will establish itself in stony, shady areas where grass will not grow well. NOTE: Horseherb DOES NOT kill or crowd out grasses; the grass thins or dies and the Horseherb covers the bare spots!

Plants Commercially Available: yes but rarely

Maintenance: Mow if desired to keep even and to clear away dead growth in areas where it goes dormant in the winter. It may need supplemental water to look its best in hot, full sun areas during extended drought.

Information from Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center and on the web at:
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=CAVI2

Horseherb, All Star Plant?

Horseherb (Calyptecarpus vialis) is not as showy as most of the blooming plants we describe in the “What’s Blooming Now” feature but despite its plain appearance horseherb deserves recognition for the important role it plays in many landscapes. My colleague on Milberger’s Gardening South Texas, Dr. Jerry Parsons went so far a few years ago to explore horseherb as a commercial groundcover. He collected the tiny seed and had test beds planted all over the area. Horseherb transplants do appear occasionally on the retail nursery market but is probably not destined for a major commercial role because despite its valuable characteristics, they are only provided on the plants own terms. Horseherb is hard to manage, it selects you and your yard, rather than being selected by the gardener.

Also called straggler daisy, horse herb is a low growing plant with dime-size heart-shaped leaves with tiny yellow flowers. Right now it is common in thin lawns on shallow soils in sun or shade . It grows so thick in its favorite habitats that the lawn can look like it has been overseeded. In fact, one of its all-star worthy values is that it makes an excellent groundcover. Combined with rescue grass and/ or annual bluegrass it is a sustainable winter turf for lawns that are thin due to shallow soil or shade. Mow the sustainable winter lawn every two weeks and it can look better than the regular summer lawn on such soils.

Horseherb is a reseeding perennial. I came reluctantly into the horseherb appreciator camp after years of unsuccessfully trying to control it with pre-emergent and contact herbicides. The plant seems indestructible, but again, on its own terms.

Horseherb is sensitive to dry weather. Don’t get me wrong, it survives dry weather but it disappears during dry weather. Just when you are inclined to do without St Augustine or Bermuda grass in favor of horseherb, we have 4 weeks of drought and the ground is bare where it used to be lush with horseherb! When the rains start it will come back but until then the soil is bare.

There are also several other desirable horseherb characteristics to consider. The plant is a favorite browse for deer and it provides nectar to butterflies.

Wildlife biologists tell us over and over that deer are browsers, not grazers. A very small portion of their food is supplied by grass. They require the foliage and stems of broadleaf plants for nutrition. That pronouncement is questioned quite often in neighborhoods like mine where deer move across lawns feeding like cattle. Look close, however and the lawn component they are eating is the broadleaf weed, horseherb. As long as the soil is moist, the horseherb can provide enough browse to keep the deer healthy and happy.

Last year was a spectacular year for butterflies. Rainfall was generous and well-spaced so there was nectar producing blooms all year. One of those nectar sources was horseherb. If you lived in a neighborhood with horseherb, visits to the lawn area by butterflies, especially black swallowtails, was very noticeable. Next to the browsing groups of deer were numerous black swallowtails and other butterflies.


Fall & Mediterranean Herbs

Bringing those herb pots inside to continue growing them throughout the winter is a fantastic idea, but Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, sage, thyme, and lavender will need a bit of special care to thrive. In this week's featured post, get my tips for successfully keeping rosemary alive indoors (which will work for the other herbs mentioned above as well).

The Secret to Keeping Rosemary [and Sage, Thyme and Lavender] Alive Indoors Growing rosemary indoors is a little tricky. If you experience cold winters, follow these tips to keep your potted rosemary alive inside.

I’ll never forget the disappointment I experienced my first year of growing rosemary. I brought my beautiful plant inside before winter set in, only to have it die within a month. Like my other houseplants, I had given it what Mark Shepard of Restoration Agriculture calls the STUN treatment—Sheer Total Utter Neglect.

The plant had enjoyed this type of treatment outside, so I figured it would be the same for the indoor experience. I was apparently mistaken!

The following spring we headed to the farmers’ market to replace the unlucky herb plant. I’ll never forget what I learned from the very wise farmer. She gave everyone a pamphlet with their purchase: “How NOT to Kill Your Rosemary Plant”.

The fact that she even had a pamphlet like this made me feel a little better about my murder of that previous year’s plant! I wish I could track down that pamphlet today, but at least the information is still alive in my brain.

If you live in USDA growing zones 7-10, where the ever-flowering rosemary shrub is used as an anchor perennial landscape plant, you probably think I’m a little cooky. In our neck of the woods, however, USDA hardiness zone 6, rosemary rarely survives the freezing winters outdoors.

Best to keep it in a pot and move it inside for the winter. Still, others may keep rosemary inside as part of a year-round, windowsill herb garden. The care will be the same.

Rosemary’s Native Climate

Knowing about this herb’s history can inform us of how to deal with it once we have it inside. Rosemary is a native Mediterranean plant, hailing from a region of dry, well-drained soil and hot, sunny temps.

Rather than getting its moisture from the soil, rosemary is accustomed to grabbing moisture out of the sea-sprayed air. If we can imitate this practice, our herb plant will have a better chance to thrive.

Rosemary

Pick The Right Pot and Soil

Pick a pot that matches the size of your plant. For example, if the above-ground growth is around 8-inches tall, your pot should be at least 8-inches deep. The width should allow at least one inch of space between the roots and the side of the pot.

You can increase the size of the pot as it grows over the years. If you want to keep the plant a certain size, root pruning will help you keep it happy in the same size pot, year after year (read below).

Make sure the pot has a drainage hole and a drainage pan, and use a well-drained potting soil. I like to mix organic cactus soil mix with worm castings.

Create Proper Drainage

Rosemary is called an “upside-down plant” because it likes dry roots and prefers to absorb moisture from the air through its foliage.

In addition to growing your plant in a pot with a drainage hole, you need to take an extra step: Add a layer of gravel or small rocks to the drainage pan, so that the pot actually sits on top of the rocks, rather than in the pan.

You don’t want the potting soil to have contact with water in the drainage pan.

Let the Light Shine Through

Rosemary needs full sun, whether inside or out. When inside, our plant sits on a laundry room shelf in a bright, sunny window, and seems just fine with the sun coming through the glass block window.

How to Water Rosemary

Outside, I water my plant about twice a week, which is pretty standard for potted outdoor plants.

How you handle watering the plant inside is crucial, however. It seems like too much water is a bad thing because it doesn’t like wet feet, right? True, but not enough water can spell death, too.

Indoors, water the soil every two weeks (check to make sure soil is dry first), but always keep water in the drainage pan with the rocks in it. Because the plant likes to absorb moisture from the air, it will enjoy the water as it evaporates from the pan.

Indoor air is usually drier than outdoor air. For that reason, and because rosemary is an “upside-down plant”—liking dry roots but moist foliage—fill a spray bottle with water and mist the foliage once or twice a week.

Fertilizing

Fertilize your rosemary plant in the spring. Start one month before you plan to move your rosemary plant outside for the summer. For me, that means around April Fool’s Day. I use a fish fertilizer diluted as directed in the regular watering schedule.

I fertilize the rosemary about 2-3 times before moving it outside mid-to-late May.

Each spring, evaluate your rosemary’s size, repot it in new soil, and prune the roots as needed.

Sizing Rosemary to the Pot

Rosemary will only get as big as the pot it’s sitting in. Once the above-ground plant looks to be about the same height as the pot, it’s either time to move it to a bigger pot or prune the roots so that they aren’t too crowded.

If roots are left to grow, they will eventually take over the entire pot—becoming “root bound”—and will keep the plant from absorbing enough nutrients and water. The foliage will look more lackluster over time and eventually die.

Changing the Soil

After each season, your plant will have extracted all of the nutrients available in the potted soil mix, so in the spring you’ll want to repot rosemary with new potting soil. This is a good time to check the roots and root prune if necessary.

Root Pruning

If your rosemary has outgrown its pot, you can prune the roots to keep your plant growing in the same pot. Gently wiggle the whole plant out of the pot (roots and all). Are the roots running tightly around the perimeter?

If so, it has outgrown the pot. Using sharp garden scissors, cut about 2 inches of root matter off the bottom and sides before repotting it with new soil. Keep the plant in the shade for a couple of days while it acclimates to the changes.

It may seem like a lot of work to keep a potted rosemary plant happy indoors, but it’s an easy procedure once you get the hang of it. Plus, the taste of fresh rosemary roasted potatoes in the middle of winter can’t be beat.

10 Potent Plants That Kill Pain Fast

#1. BASIL

A sacred herb used for peace and happiness at home. There are over 60 varieties: sweet basil like genovese or pistou, purple basil like Rubin basil, flavored basil like lime basil or Thai basil. It is used to sharpen the memory, combat colds, flu and the herpes, eliminate infections, remove phlegm from your bronchial tubes, relieve mucus in asthma, has antibacterial properties and it is an anti-stress agent.

Tasting like anise, basil is a plant rich in carotenoids, such as beta-carotene, which protects cells from adverse effects of free radicals and prevents the oxidation of cholesterol on blood vessels.

Thus, basil reduces the risk of atherosclerosis and heart attack. Because of the magnesium compounds, basil relaxes the muscles and the blood vessel and thus is recommended for maintaining the cardiovascular system healthy, improving blood circulation. Basil is effective for the whole immune system because it destroys bacteria that allows the development of viral infections, colds, flu and herpes.

How to use:

Tea:

10-12 leaves washed and crushed and a teaspoon of ginger rake fry in a skillet over low heat until the leaves soften. Add a cup of water and boil for a few minutes. Add a teaspoon of honey and drink 3 hot teas a day, through rare sips, after the main meals.

How to grow:

Growing Basil is relatively easy as long as the growing environment has suitable light and temperature levels. For optimal growth, basil should receive 6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day. Check your soil for moisture every other day to determine whether or not your basil needs some watering. If your soil is dry, water at the base of the plant until the soil is wet to a depth of about 1½ inches. You can start by planting yourself or buy it.

#2. ROSEMARY

Rosemary has long been believed to have memory-enhancing properties, it contains diterpene which has neuroprotective properties that may protect against Alzheimer’s disease as well as the normal memory loss that occurs with aging. Remarkably even the smell of rosemary has been found to improve memory.

In addition, rosemary boosts concentration. It’s also used for muscular aches, hair growth, poor circulation, digestion, anti-dandruff and scalp nourishment, mood elevator, migraine relief, pain relief, immune booster, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, fresh breath, liver detoxification.

How to use:

Powder:

– The plant will be finely ground. Usually, a teaspoon of powder is taken 4 times a day on the empty stomach. Keep it under the tongue for 10-15 minutes, then swallow with water. The powder should not be stored for more than 7 days as its properties are altered.

How to grow:

Rosemary is easiest to grow from a cut leftover, rather than planting seeds. Visit a community garden and ask for a cutting, or ask a friend for a cutting of their plant. The best time to do this is in late spring, but if you live in a warmer climate, this can be done during early autumn as well. Strip the leaves off one inch from the bottom of the stem. Before planting the rosemary, strip the leaves off of the lower section of the cutting (about an inch from the end of the stem). This part of the plant will go into the soil. Water rosemary infrequently. Rosemary prefers a drier soil, so don’t overdo the watering. It will be happy with the average garden watering. It likes to source most of its water from rain. And don’t worry about fertilizing. This is not a herb that needs it.

#3. SAGE


The leaves should be collected shortly before or just at the beginning of flowering. Leaves can then be dried, but not above 95°F.

Sage can be taken internally as either an infusion, tincture, or gargle.

The leaves of Red Sage are often used to aid inflammation of the mouth, throat, and tonsils as its volatile oils are soothing to the mucous membranes.

It can be used internally as a mouth wash to treat gingivitis, inflamed tongue (glossitis), and other mouth inflammations including mouth ulcers.

It can also be gargled to treat laryngitis, pharyngitis, and tonsillitis. Furthermore, it reduces sweating when taking internally.

Externally it is used to treat wounds. Do not take Sage if you are pregnant or wishing to breastfeed. When taken internally, it can reduce breast milk production and stimulate the muscles of the uterus.

How to use:

Infusion:

– pour a cup of boiling water onto 1-2 teaspoons of leaves and let infuse for 10 minutes. Drink this solution up to three times a day.

How to grow:

A lot of your success in growing sage is because of what you don’t do. Don’t over-water your sage plants. They only need to be watered at all during dry spells. And don’t over-fertilize them. Sage plants don’t really need much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing makes them grow faster but they have a weaker flavor, defeating the purpose of growing it.

#4. THYME


Thyme contains an essential oill that is rich with powerful antispetic, antibacterial and strong antioxidant properties.

It is used in mouthwashes to treat inflamation of the mouth and throat infections. Thyme possesses expectorant and antispasmodic properties, making it useful in the treatment of bronchitis, whooping cough and inflamation of the upper respiratory tract.

How to use:

Infusion:

– put 2 teaspoons of dry and crushed herb in 250 ml boiling water and leave to cover for 10 minutes. Drink one cup a day, divided into 2-3 replicas, for one week.

How to grow:

Thyme can tolerate indirect light, which makes it perfect for the kitchen herb garden. The best results will be found when thyme is planted where it receives six hours of daylight. Once the thyme has been planted, place the container in a southern- or western-facing window if possible. A good mix of sand, potting soil, peat moss and perlite will provide adequate nutrients and drainage.

#5. OREGANO

The plant has a strong odor similar to thyme and sage. Has strong antiseptic properties and it is highly potent as an antibiotic as well. As such, it could be very effective in treating conditions caused by a microbial action, such as gastric problems, nausea and fever.

It is also beneficial for digestive problems, respiratory and immune system.

How to use:

Tea:

– 4-6 leaves of fresh oregano, 2 and 1/2 cups of water, 1 spoon of natural honey. Boil water, chopp oregano and cook gently for 10 minutes. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Strain and enjoy.

How to grow:

If you decide to start from seed, or establish some cuttings early, get them started indoors about 6-10 weeks before your last frost date. They can be transplanted anytime after the last frost. But you could purchase started plants at your local greenhouse. Oregano is quite simple to tend to. Give your plants about one inch of water per week, allowing the soil to dry out in between watering. Oregano doesn’t care for fertilizer, so you can skip this step.

#6. PARSLEY

Parsley is an excellent source of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and amino acids that play an important role in the proper functioning of the body. The calcium helps develop and maintain the bone system, amino acids inhibit the growth of tumors, and iodine regulates the thyroid function.

Also, parsley is four times richer in vitamin C than an orange and has more iron than spinach. It is also a rich source of pro-vitamin A which helps protect vision and strengthens the immune system.

How to use:

Juice:

– is indicated if you are experiencing kidney stones. Two tablespoons on empty stomach will be consumed for 40 days, only at the doctor’s indication.

How to grow:

Seeds can be planted outdoors in March or April, and again in late summer for early growth the next spring. You may also start seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before the last frost.Prefers soil enriched with plenty of organic material, such as compost and well-rotted manure.

#7. CHIVES

Chives have a mild anti-inflammatory effect which can reduce the risk of rheumatoid arthritis. It is rich in vitamin C which helps support the immune system. Vitamin E also has antioxidant properties that strengthen the immune system. Also possess antibiotic properties.

The natural antibacterial and antiviral agents present in chives work with vitamin C to destroy harmful microbes and certain yeast infections.

How to use:

Juice:

– can be applied to wounds to treat fungal infections.

How to grow:

It is best to start growing your chives from seedlings instead of seeds so that you can enjoy quicker results. When planting your chive seedlings, you want well drained and nutrient-rich soil. Chives will flourish quickly in a full sun spot, but if you only have partial sun they will survive, they just won’t grow as quickly. When planting your chive seedlings, you want them to be 8-10 inches apart so they have room to stretch.

#8. LAVENDER

Lavender not only has a great smell and color, but it also serves numerous medicinal and health purposes.

In the composition of the plant, over 40 components have been identified which can not be obtained by synthesis in the laboratory. The composition of the plant contains oliphalic alcohol, acetic acid, tannin and bitter principles, which attribute lavender healing virtues to more than 70 diseases.

Lavender has valuable therapeutic properties: anti-collagen, antiseptic, diuretic, relaxant and anxiolytic.

How to use:

Lavender Tea:

– infuse 0.8 g to 1.5 g of dried lavender flowers (one teaspoon of 2 teaspoons of flowers) into 150 ml of boiled water for 5 to 10 minutes. Drink up this tea up to 3 times a day, depending on affections, or before bedtime to combat insomnia.

How to grow:

If you are growing your lavender in pots, cover two inches of the bottom with Styrofoam peanuts or gravel. This will help make draining easier so the lavender does not become diseased or damaged. Plant one lavender per pot and keep it at the center. Water your lavender only when the soil is dry. As mentioned before, damp soil is very bad for lavender, so you don’t want to over-water it. However, under-watering can cause fungus and disease to grow.

#9. DILL

Rich in potassium, sodium and sulfur, dill is a very good diuretic. Improves anxiety and nerve exhaustion, insomnia, digestive disorders, strengthens nails. Has digestive, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory properties.

How to use:

Powder:

– dill powder is obtained by grinding the seeds and dried inflorescence by means of a grinder. You can take a teaspoon twice a day, but before it is swallowed, hold it for 10-15 minutes under your tongue. The treatment lasts for 21 days.

How to grow:

For planting dill, place the seeds in loose soil near the surface of the soil. You will want to plant them about a half an inch deep from the surface for the best results and rapid growth. Cover the seeds with the loose soil and lightly water and place in the sun. If you have higher winds you will want to cover the plants to avoid damage. In around two weeks you will notice your dill plants emerging. This is when you will want to thin out the plants so they can grow better.

#10. MINT

Known from antiquity, mint is an aromatic herb with many curative properties. It has an effective pain reliever for headaches and migraines, use for indigestion, antiseptic and antibacterial properties to treat cuts and burns, alleviates arthritis pain, used as a decongestant with antiviral properties.

How to use:

Tea:

– mint tea after meals to have a pleasant breath and reduce the symptoms of indigestion and bloating.

How to grow:

Your mint plant can last for many years if cared for properly. Mint enjoys soil that is well drained and nutrient-rich. It can grow in full sun as well as in part sun.

Amazing Remedy that Reduces Fatty Deposits in Arteries and Lowers Cholesterol Drink this infusion of garlic, ginger and lemon to help lower cholesterol and break down these fatty deposits in the arteries.

What you need:

4 lemons
5 litres of water
4 Garlic cloves
1 small ginger root (3-4 cm)

You might want to drink the liquid warm, however it is not recommended that you boil it since doing so will deactivate allicin, the active compound in garlic. Although you can either blend or chop the garlic and ginger into small pieces, chopping may be preferable as this preserves the allicin content which is released upon crushing and active for a very short time. For this reason, chewing the chopped garlic is to be encouraged! Since much of the flavanoid is in the peel of lemon, you might want to consider buying organic unwaxed lemons, grating and then adding some of the peel.

All-Natural, Home Remedies for High Blood Pressure This article looks at remedies which we can easily try ourselves that have been shown to have a positive impact on lowering blood pressure. The list is of course, not exclusive; Black Seed for instance has previously been reported in our July article, ‘Black Seed – The Remedy For Everything But Death’, [http://www.askaprepper.com/black-seed-remedy-everything-death-healing/] as causing a reduction in both systolic and diastolic blood pressure and is definitely worth consideration.

Hibiscus, garlic, hawthorn,


Oregaono

Oregano Herb – Benefits, Uses and Side Effects Botanical Name of Oregano: Origanum vulgare.

It is closely related to Origanum majorana also known as sweet marjoram.

Other Common Names: Common and garden oregano.

Habitat: Oregano or pot marjoram is an indigenous herb of the Mediterranean regions of Southern Europe and of Central and Southern Asia.

However, it is possible to grow it in any temperate climate and in fact is commonly found herb in the western world.

Description: Origanum vulgare, of the Lamiaceae family (mint family), is grayish green perennial herb with a height ranging from one to three feet or 30 to 60.

It has a hairy erect branched stem with green opposite leaves also covered with fine hair. The flowers, arranged on a spike, are purple in color.

The plant has a strong odor similar to thyme and sage.

Plant Parts Used: The leaves and the volatile oil of oregano are both used in herbal medicine.

Oregano Plant (Origanum vulgare) – Attribution: Christian Bauer

Therapeutic Uses, Benefits and Claims of Oregano

Oregano has strong antiseptic properties and it is highly potent as an antibiotic as well. As such, it could be very effective in treating conditions caused by a microbial action, such as gastric problems, nausea and fever.

It could also be beneficial for treatment of problems pertaining to the digestive, respiratory and immune system.

This herb had been used to combat problems caused by bacteria, such as the throat infections, pneumonia, and diseases of the trachea. Moreover, oregano is thought to be highly effective in clearing up campylobacter and staphylococcus infections.

Also, it has been used to eradicate the common ameba giardia lamblia, which is responsible for several digestive disorders such as flatulence, vomiting and diarrhea.

The oil has been used traditionally in treating toothache, earache and relieving the itch of insect bites.

It contains a number of vital minerals such as manganese, copper, iron, zinc, potassium, and calcium.

It has also served in folk medicine as a treatment for yeast, fungus and parasitic infections, such as Candida and athlete’s foot.

Both oregano and marjoram have been used in traditional herbal medicine to treat colds, coughs, gastrointestinal problems and a variety of other conditions, and several plants in the genus reportedly have antibacterial, antifungal and antimicrobial properties due to the phenol carvacrol.

It is known to be rich in flavonoids. The latter are compounds found in fruits and vegetables and contain antioxidant properties.

Perhaps, it is this attribute that makes oregano beneficial in maintaining a strong immune system and in fighting a variety of diseases and infections.

It should be noted that for maximum benefit, one needs to use the oily extract of the herb.

The herb in dried form is rich in aroma and can be used in cooking and in salads. But dried herb has few health benefits apart from its mineral content.

The essential oils of both Oreganum majorana and Origanum vulgare are used commercially to scent soaps, lotions, and perfumes.

Dosage and Administration

The volatile oil should always be derived from origanum vulgare with at least 70% concentration of carvacrol.

The manufacturer’s instructions should always be followed when oregano oil is used as an herbal medicine.

Highly concentrated oils need to be diluted before application, usually one teaspoon of olive or coconut oil per one drop of oregano volatile oil.

Potential Side Effects and Interactions of Oregano

Oregano is considered to be a safe herb.

Pregnant women should not take the oil because it can interfere with the body’s ability to absorb iron.

People with known allergic reaction to mint, sage, basil, and thyme which are all plants that belong to the mint family should not use the herb in any form.


Woad

Isatis tinctoria Isatis tinctoria, also called woad, dyer's woad, or glastum, is a flowering plant in the family Brassicaceae. It is occasionally known as Asp of Jerusalem. Woad is also the name of a blue dye produced from the leaves of the plant. Woad is native to the steppe and desert zones of the Caucasus, Central Asia to eastern Siberia and Western Asia (per Hegi) but is now also found in southeastern and Central Europe and western North America.

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Since ancient times, woad was an important source of blue dye and was cultivated throughout Europe, especially in Western and Southern Europe. In medieval times there were important woad-growing regions in England, Germany and France. Towns such as Toulouse became prosperous from the woad trade. Woad was eventually replaced by the more colorfast Indigofera tinctoria and, in the early 20th century, both woad and Indigofera tinctoria were replaced by synthetic blue dyes. Woad has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. There has also been some revival of the use of woad for craft purposes.

Dyer's woad Appearance: Isatis tinctoria is a biennial member of the mustard family that can grow from 1-4 ft. (0.3-1.2 m) tall.

Foliage: First years growth is represented by a rosette of hairy, bluish-green leaves 1.5-7 in. (3.7-18 cm) long. Stem leaves are lance-shaped and alternate with a cream colored mid-rib.

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Flowers: Flat-topped yellow flowers with four spoon shaped petals appear in small clusters at the top of the stems. Flowering occurs in spring to late summer.

Fruit: Seed pods are black or purplish, flattened, 0.4 in. (0.9 cm) long, 0.25 in. (0.6 cm) wide and hang from short stalks at the ends of the stems.

Ecological Threat: Isatis tinctoria occurs in areas with poor, dry soils such as roadsides, rangelands and open forests. Isatis tinctoria is native to central Asia and northern Russia and was introduced to North America in the early 1900’s as a contaminant in alfalfa seed.

Isatis tinctoria Root Extract Isatis tinctoria is a flowering plant from the mustard family that grows about 2-4 feet tall and has a root system with a thick taproot that can plunge more than 5 feet in depth.

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To create the commercial product, the roots are soaked in alcohol to promote the release of the beneficial materials. Then the alcohol is vacuumed out, the remaining liquid is filtered to eliminate impurities, and it’s dried to create an extract powder. (Historical texts cite this method, but back in the day, people soaked the herbs or flowers in wine!)

The Egyptian used it to dye mummy’s wrapping cloth; it’s been found on pottery dating back to the Iron Age; and some historical accounts say it was used by ancient warriors as body paint! The roots have been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries due to its impressive health promoting qualities, including:

Treating fever, sore throat, tonsillitis, the common cold, flu, respiratory ailments, hepatitis, chickenpox, herpes, mumps, and some skin infections;

Warding off severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS);

Stimulating the immune system;

Acting as an antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory agent;

Relieving bacterial conjunctivitis; and,

Fighting cancer. (The plant has unusually high levels of the same cancer-fighting compound found in broccoli; and preliminary studies show it kills human liver cancer and leukemia cell lines.)

A VIP--Very Important Plant.

WebMD: Isatis Other Names: Ban Lan Gen, Ban Lang Gen, Baphicacanthus cusia, Chinese Indigo, Clerodendron cyrtophyllum, Da Qing Ye, Da Quing Ye, Dyer's Woad, Farberwaid (Färberwaid), Folium Isatidis, Genêt des Teinturiers, Guède, Hierba Pastel, Indigo, Indigo Naturalis, Indigo Woad, Isatis indigotica, Isatis tinctoria, Pastel des Teinturiers, Persicaria tinctoria, Polygonum tinctorium, Qing Dai, Quing Dai, Radix Isatidis, Strobilanthes cusia; Woad.

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Isatis is used to treat the common cold and other infections of the nose, throat, and sinuses (upper respiratory tract infections), as well as infections of the glands that make saliva (parotitis). It is also used for encephalitis, which is a swelling of the brain that is usually caused by infection; a liver disorder (hepatitis); pockets of infection (abscesses) in the lungs; digestive tract infections including dysentery and acute gastroenteritis; prostate cancer; and AIDS/HIV.

Isatis is applied directly to the skin for a skin condition, psoriasis. Some people also take isatis by mouth for this condition.

Woad Family: Mustard Family – Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)
Growing form: Biennial herb.

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Habitat: Stony, sandy and gravelly sea-shores, kelp banks, sometimes roadsides, waste ground. Flowering time: June–July.

Isatis tinctoria Zone: 4 to 8

Spread: 2.00 to 3.00 feet

Sun: Full sun
Water: Medium

Maintenance: Medium
Suggested Use: Naturalize

Easily grown in moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soils in full sun. Tolerates highly alkaline soils, but achieves best growth in moderately alkaline to neutral soil conditions. As a biennial, it produces large, taprooted basal rosettes in the first year and flowers with subsequent seed production in the second year followed by plant death. Sow seed in spring or late summer in rich, well-drained soils in full sun. Readily self-seeds in the landscape.

Isatis tinctoria (Woad) video anti-microbial. anti-biotic.

Edible wild plants Episode 4 | Woad (Isatis tinctoria) video in French. Sprouts are boiled and eaten with salt and oil.

Used as Celtic war paint, like William Wallace--Brave Heart.

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Woad as natural antibiotics

LOOKING FOR NATURAL FLU REMEDIES? WOAD WORKS!

WOAD - NOT ONLY FOR DYING: HEALTH BENEFITS AND USES OF WOAD Woad is a Brassica and so related to cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts and broccoli. Research has shown that woad is rich in the compound glucobrassicin and has 20 times more of it than is found in broccoli. Foods rich in glucosinolates are known to have a beneficial effect on smoking-related lung cancers, and glucobrassicin in particular has shown itself to have anti-tumour properties being especially effective against breast cancer. This substance is released by woad when its leaves are damaged, so it is easier to obtain from this source than from broccoli. (University of Bologna research published 2006 and reported by the BBC.) This also kills pests which try to eat the leaves - it’s a good defence mechanism.

was used by ancient Britons as body paint used by warriors going into battle. As the woad plant has antiseptic properties this may have been why the tribes wore it – to heal battle wounds.

The Anglo-Saxon name for this plant was wad, which shows how the word came to be woad; and wad has been incorporated into place names, presumably showing where woad was cultivated or where it grew wild in the distant past. Such names are Wadland Furlong in Warwickshire (my favourite of these names), Wadborough in Worcestershire and Wadden in Dorset and Surrey but this list is not complete by any means.

woad leaves are edible if they have been soaked for a very long time in water to remove some of their astringency and bitterness.

Earlier research, published in the Alternative Medicine Review, vol. 7 (6) 2000 states that the root and leaves have anti-microbial actions although exactly what is responsible for these is still not known. Extracts from the Chinese woad plant root have anti-microbial, antiviral and antiparasitic actions. The indole compounds found in the Brassica plants have anti-cancer effects, and tryptanthrin in the European woad root has anti-inflammatory properties.

PERENNIAL PLANT PROFILES: Genista tinctoria Common Name Dyers greenwood By default if an agriculture is to be called regenerative the bottom line is that it must be soil building, not soil depleting. Relentless deep tillage & poor soil husbandry (wifery?!) contributes to the majority of the 24 billion tons of topsoil lost every year on planet water. We are going to be focused on holistic polyculture grazing and perennial production at ridgedale over most of the site as this represents the most effective way to restore our degraded landscape, produce high value produce and ensure the future resource base we are managing holistically for in our decision making.

Edible seed is possible coffee substitute. Flower buds are pickled and used as a substitute for capers.

The twigs, leaves and flowering stems are cathartic, diaphoretic, diuretic, emetic, stimulant and vasoconstrictor. The seeds are also sometimes used. The plant is harvested in early summer as it comes into flower and can be dried for later use. It should not be stored for more than 12 months since its active ingredients break down. The powdered seeds act as a mild purgative and were at one time used to make a plaster for broken limbs. A decoction of the whole plant has been used as a remedy for dropsy, rheumatism and gout. A homeopathic remedy is made from the fresh shoots. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism.

growing, harvesting and using natural dye plants Woad seems to be a terrific nutrient hog - it's supposed to delete the soils it's grown in, and I believe it. I don't know what effects any of those plants would have in a guild, but I'll make an educated guess and say that woad wouldn't be a good companion plant for most trees, and probably for no fruit trees.

Deer don't bother my weld or woad both of which I plant from seed late summer into september and they are ready to harvest when they set flowers in June or July.

I planted Woad in pots last late summer (with wood added as is talked about in a couple other threads) and they are excellent plants. Woad needs very fertile soil so I added the pee bucket frequently over the winter and they had plenty of rain water...it continues to grow in cold weather.

Both weld and woad are biennials and will winter over and then bloom around June the next year...which is when you would use the leaves to dye with. Madder is perennial so as long as it was well established by really cold weather it would be fine...I started mine in pots.

the tannins in sumac will will help to bind color to fiber. I don't know anything about dying leathers though. We have leather workers in our family who buy hides that are colored with 'vegetable' dyes I think. My book lists sumac, taproots of dock, bark of hemlock trees, bark and leaf galls from oak trees, and bark of willows as containing significant amounts of tannins. Dried Sumac leaves are listed as containing the most tannins and all are considered mordants either on their own or in combination with alum or other metals.

Woad is a biennial. This plant was started from seed more than a year ago...it survived a summer here, and is just beginning to send up flower stalks. When it blooms it is time to cut the whole plant to use for dye. It survives very cold winters but has a hard time in our really hot summers and I tend to loose a few plants every year.


I think it is considered an invasive weed in some states so check first...that has never been a problem here...i don't know if i have ever had it volunteer...I always start it carefully from seed in a flat and transplant before the roots get too big. It is one of those seeds that needs to be just pressed into the surface of moist soil and barely covered...I keep the soil moist until it germinates.

List of Permaculture Plants woad not included

bee-friendly natural dye plants Stack functions in your garden for beautiful, natural dye plants that provide food for the bees! including woad

How to Grow Woad and other Isatis Plants in the Garden Woad should be grown outdoors from seeds. The Woad seeds should be sown out in the latter part of summer and lightly covered. It can take from two to seven weeks for woad to germinate.

They should be planted in a sunny or partially shaded part of the garden into a rich, moist soil that has good drainage. Once the seedlings have emerged thin them out so that they are about 20 to 30 cm apart.

Edible Landscapes: Terra Perma Design pdf.

Permaculture Report pdf.


Achillea Millefolium

AKA common yarrow. Zones 3-9. Full sunlight.

Improves the health of the soil.

Dainty flowerinjg herb with feather gray-green leavs and creamy white blooms.

Perfect companion plant

Medicinal. Attracts Pollinators and butterflies. Native aromatic. Drought tolerant.

[from Growers Exchange Herb Catalog]

achillea-millefolium-californica ~ achillea-millefolium


Angelica archangelica

Edible, medicinal, aromatic, attracts pollinators. Zones 4-10. Full or partial sun.

Bright yellow blossoms. Sweet tasting leaves and stalks.

[from Growers Exchange Herb Catalog]

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How to Grow Angelica USDA Zones — 4-9

Difficulty — Easy

Other Names — Angel’s Herb, Root of the Holy Spirit, Garden Angelica, Holy Ghost, Wild Celery, and Norwegian Angelica.

Angelica archangelica is a biennial herbaceous plant that belongs to the Umbelliferae family. The average height of the angelica plant is 100-120 cm. Its stems are branched, hairless, quite sturdy and with streaks of dark red. Angelica leaves are green on the upper side, lighter in the lower one and are arranged alternately on the side. The flowers are light yellow gathered in umbels that appear on the tops of the stems. Flowering occurs in the second year after planting.

For growing angelica, propagate it by division or from seeds. You can sow seeds in early spring indoors. Angelica seeds germinate in 3 to 4 weeks, germination rate is low. Sowing seeds in late summer and fall is also possible. Planting angelica is also possible in pots.

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The optimal exposure of the angelica plant is in full to part sun. Exposure to sun depends more on the climate. In warmer zones, growing angelica in full sun is not required there it tolerates semi-shaded exposure, sheltered from winds. It is resistant to low temperatures so it can adapt to the harsh winters too.

Soil: It grow in almost all types of soil. The plant has deep roots so it prefers deep soil that is well-drained, light, rich in organic matter and moist. Ideal soil pH level for growing angelica should be slightly acidic.

Watering: Angelica does not tolerate drought, it requires constantly moist soil and cool temperature. Make sure to water the plant regularly. To retain moisture, you can mulch the plant which will limit the evaporation of water.

Angelica plant care is easy. Mulching, pruning and fertilizing is required for lush growth.

Fertilize once a month with 10-10-10 fertilizer. You can also dress the base of plant with compost, it will serve both as mulch and slow release fertilizer.

Angelica is not much susceptible to pests and diseases. However, the plant is affected by aphids. Keep an eye on them and if they colonize your plant use appropriate organic pesticide to get rid of them.

Growing Hermione's Garden: An autodidactic approach to growing a classic medicinal herb garden. Angelica

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also known as Archangelica officinalis. Archangelica comes from the Greek word "arkhangelos" (arch-angel), due to the myth that it was the archangel Michael who told of its use as medicine. It is believed to be one of few medicinal herbs originating in the northern hemisphere and was one of the plants that survived the ice age 8 to 10 thousand years ago.

Angelica has been cultivated as a vegetable and medicinal plant since the 10th century. In 1602, angelica was introduced in France, where the plague had ravaged the town of Niort, and it has been popular there ever since. It is used to flavour liqueurs, omelettes and trout, and as jam. The long bright green stems are also candied and used as decoration.

Angelica is unique for its aromatic odour, a pleasant perfume entirely different from other herbs of its kind. One old writer compares it to Musk, others liken it to Juniper. Angelica contains a variety of chemicals which have been shown to have medicinal properties. Chewing on angelica or drinking tea brewed from it will cause local anesthesia, but it will heighten the consumer's immune system. It has been shown to be effective against various bacteria, fungal infections and even viral infections.

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During the Middle Ages the liquid extract was used as eye and ear drops before going into battle; it was believed to improve the sight and hearing. During the 16th and 17th centuries angelica was combined with other herbs to make "Carmelite water," a medieval drink thought to cure headache, promote relaxation, and long life, and protect against poisons and witches' spells.

Due to its ability to clear tiny passages in the body, it is used to relieve dimness of vision by placing drops in the eyes and also used to improve diminished hearing by placing drops in the ears. An infusion of the root has also been used as eyedrops, often combined with eyebright.

Other medicinal qualities are: Carminative, antispasmodic, topical anti-inflammatory, diuretic, expectorant, digestive tonic, anti-rheumatic, uterine stimulant, cholagogue (gallbladder pain), stomatic, and diaphoretic. This herb helps relieve anemia, abdominal bloating, chronic bronchitis, dyspepsia, flatulence, gastrointestinal spasms, loss of appetite, peptic discomforts, arthritis and joint pain, typhoid, ulcers. It has been used as a blood purifier, to promote blood circulation and in both sexes. It relieves peripheral circulation problems and reduces high blood pressure by acting to stabilize blood vessels.

CAUTION: Excess dosage may affect heart rate and blood pressure as well as increase the level of sugar in the blood.

Native Americans used it to discharge mucous from the respiratory tract, to induce vomiting and to cure TB and consumption. They mixed poultices of Angelica and the leaves of Canada Wormwood (Artemesia canadensis) and placed them on the side of the body opposite the pain to relieve the pain and also applied poultices to swellings. Native Americans of the Rocky mountains made decoctions and infusions from the root and drank it as a tonic to build up the body after an illness.

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It was used by Russians since ancient times for treatment of nervous exhaustion, epilepsy, hysteria, sedative, poor digestion, to increase the appetite, for stomach problems, for gas and bloating, for indigestion, heartburn and atony of the intestines.

The Chinese use the root for lung, stomach and intestinal problems.

Cultivate Angelica in ordinary deep, moist loam, in a shady position, as the plant thrives best in a damp soil and loves to grow near running water. Although the natural habitat is in damp soil and open quarters, it can withstand an adverse environment and even endure severe winter frost.

During its first year it only grows leaves, but during its second year its fluted stem can reach a height of six feet. The flowers, which blossom in July, are small and numerous, yellowish or greenish in colour adn grouped into large, globular umbels, which bear pale yellow, oblong fruits. Insects and garden pests do not attack the plant very much: its worst enemy is a small two-winged fly, of which the maggots are leafminers.

Not only is angelica part of many commercial drugs sold in regular pharmacies, it is edible. Its delicate taste permeates the stems, leaves and even seeds which are used in Persian cooking. Angelica seeds and angelica roots are sometimes used in absinthe. The French make candied angelica stems by immersing them in increasing concentrations of sugar for days.

Considered a vegetable in Iceland, Siberia and Lapland where the raw stems are eaten with butter. Laplanders wrap their fish in the leaves to preserve them on long journeys due to the leaves' antimicrobial properties. In Norway the powdered roots are used to flavor bread. In Finland the young stems were baked in hot ashes and an infusion of the dry herb was drunk hot or cold and the fresh herb was added to fish stew.


Angelica tea is used for tired eyes and to cleanse skin. A decoction of the root used in the bath is calming and including the leaves and seeds in a muslin bag will provide a lovely calming fragrance. Angelica salve is used as a skin lotion. An incision in the bark of the stems and the crown of the root in early spring will allow a resinous gum to exude and can be substituted for musk benzoin. Essential oil is used commecially in perfumes, creams, soaps, ointments, shampoos and oils. The seeds and pieces of dried root can be used as incense.

A 10th century French legend says Angelica was named after the Archangel Michael who revealed this herb and its secrets in a dream to a monk during a plague epidemic. It is said to bloom in Europe on the Feast of the Apparition of St. Michael the Archangel and is believed to ward off witchcraft and evil spirits. The roots were added to wines and elixirs by the Benedictine monks. An elixir of the root was used for digestive and lung complaints as well as the plague. The juice of the roots was used to make Carmelite Water which was used as a cure-all, to ensure long life and to protect against witchcraft. It was believed to have been a preventative against diseases as well as a cure.

During early summer in the lake region of Latvia, peasants would march into town carrying armsful of angelica to sell. As they went, they sang chants in a language so ancient that the meaning of the words had been lost. Peasants would also make necklaces of the leaves for their children to be worn about the neck to ward off evil spirits and witches.


Email Professor Colby Glass, MAc, MLIS, PhDc, Prof. Emeritus
at co@dadbyrn.com