House Plants, Containers


Plant List:
Aloe Vera
Gardenia
Bamboo Palm
English Ivy
Ferns
Gerbera Daisy
Jasmine
Lavender
Pentas
Peperomia
Pothos [Devil's Ivy]
Sage
Snake Plant
Spider Plant
Wandering Jew

Care of HP
My Houseplants
Potting Soil
Cuttings

Easy Houseplants
Pollution & HP
Companion Planting
Mediterranean Garden

Houseplant Care
My Houseplants
Hard to Kill Houseplants; Inside Air Improvement

Tx Mediterranean Garden


Houseplants

12 Plants For Your Bedroom All To Help You Sleep


Jasmine

is the first plant listed and is shown to have a soothing effect on the body and mind. It therefore can help reduce stress which leads to a better quality of sleep.

This exotic plant has a gentle, soothing effect on the body and mind. It has been shown in one study to reduce anxiety levels, leading to a greater quality of sleep.

Not only that, but this research suggests that the positive effects of such a high quality sleep lead you enjoy increased alertness and productivity during the day.

With such beautiful pink or ivory blossoms, there seem to be no downsides to adding a Jasmine bloom to your boudoir!


Jasmine / Lavender

Another plant is aloe vera which also emits oxygen in the night which will help you breathe better as you sleep.

On top of that aloe vera is an excellent plant to have around to help in the treatment of cuts and wounds.

Lavender

Who doesn’t love the scent of lavender? It’s also probably the most well-known of all plants when it comes to inducing sleep and reducing anxiety levels. Research backs up these claims, with lavender scents shown to slow down heart rate, lower blood pressure and levels of stress.

Annual. Prime beneficial-insect plant. Lavender-blue, fragrant flowers are loved by people too.

In one study, the smell of lavender reduced crying in babies, sending them into a deeper sleep; while simultaneously reducing stress in both mother and child – something all new mothers will be happy to hear!


Insect repellant lavender for room or patio. slate mulch complements foliage

In women, lavender has been shown to increase light sleep, and decrease rapid-eye movement (REM) sleep and the amount of time to wake after first falling asleep, with opposite effects in men.

The countryside of southern France is legendary for its fields of lavender (Lavandula x intermedia Provence) grown for the perfume industry. In North America, lavender is a shrubby perennial grown for its flowers and fragrance, but it also serves as a landscape item for its beauty and ability to stand heat and drought. In parts of California, is it used in islands of commercial parking lots, which attests to its toughness.

In a formal garden, lavender may be clipped to form a low hedge or an aromatic border along a path. In a rock garden, a single plant or just a few plants may be used to great effect as an accent. And, of course, lavender is a natural choice for any herb garden. The cool, gray-green foliage contrasts nicely with its own flowers, as well as dark green herbs and other plants.

Lavender also grows quite well in containers. In the Deep South, it actually does better in pots, as it benefits from improved drainage and air circulation. While the plants thrive in arid Western climates, they are usually considered annuals in the South.

Set out plants 12 to 18 inches apart in an open area with full sun and good air circulation. Plant lavender in well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can add builder’s sand to the soil before planting to increase drainage, which is vital because lavender will not tolerate excessive soil moisture or humidity. To further improve drainage, plant lavender in a raised bed, along a wall, or near the top of a slope.

In an herb or perennial bed, ensure good drainage by planting lavender on a small mound. Lavender flowers bloom in summer; you can clip faded blooms to encourage continued blooming throughout the warm season. Prune lightly to promote branching, especially in spring once the plants show new growth.

Sprinkle bone meal or other phosphorus-rich fertilizer around each plant in the fall to make it stronger and more winter hardy. Work the fertilizer into the first inch of soil, or let the rain soak it in.


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Try your hand at growing lavender indoors. While this pretty herb isn’t a traditional houseplant, you can manage to keep it healthy if you do the right things. In most situations, lavender should be grown outdoors. Even in coldest regions where lavender isn’t hardy, it’s best to keep growing lavender indoors as a fall-back position, something you do in winter when plants can’t be outdoors.

Most indoor lavender plants don’t display ideal growth and leaf color, let alone colorful blooms. The problem is light—or lack of it. Indoor settings have a tough time delivering sufficient sunlight.

Place indoor lavender plants near a bright south-facing window. Most plants won’t fit on a window ledge, so use a small table or plant stand to get your plant near the sun. You can also use supplemental light to mimic sun. Standard fluorescent tubes suspended 6 to 12 inches above lavender provide sufficient light for growth. Or try high output fluorescent lights (T5 type), which yield twice as much light as traditional tubes.

When growing lavender indoors, using the right size container is important. A pot for lavender should only be one to two inches larger than the plant’s rootball. In a larger pot, there’s excess soil that doesn’t have any roots in it to help absorb moisture. That soil can easily become waterlogged and lead to too-wet soil where the lavender roots are. The end result is root rot, which is how many indoor lavender plants die.

Lavender is a Mediterranean plant, which means that it loves lean soil. Fill the bottom of your pot with an inch or two of limestone gravel topped with a basic soilless mix made for containers. Blend a tablespoon of lime into soil to give it more of an alkaline edge. Monthly, blend dried and ground eggshells into the top of soil to add lime. Although lavender loves heat, indoors you’ll have better success, especially in winter, when you locate it away from hot or cold air drafts. In winter, consider growing lavender indoors in a room that’s cooler than the rest of the house. Aim to keep roots alive through winter, but not to push heavy new growth.

Water your lavender after planting, and then pull back on the water. During cooler winter months, water only when soil is dry to the touch about 1 inch deep. Consider using a terra-cotta pot for growing lavender indoors. The porous clay pot sides lose moisture, which can help prevent root rot.


Snake Plant (Mother-in-Law’s Tongue)

One of the most recommended plants for improving indoor air quality, the Snake Plant is a hardy and easy to care-for plant … always a plus!

What’s great about this plant is that it emits oxygen at night time whilst simultaneously taking in carbon dioxide – something we naturally produce when breathing. All this leads to a purer quality of air and a better night’s sleep.

The Snake Plant also filters some nasty but common household toxins (namely formaldehyde, trichloroethylene and benzene) from the air.


Snake Plant Sansevieria trifasciata

Lighting
The snake plant is a very versatile plant which can be placed in almost any lighting condition. Hearty in both low light and sufficiently lit areas, the snake plant prefers East, West or South facing light. If you can only provide a Northern exposure window, or minimal light, fear not! Try to place your plant outdoors on occasion to catch up on its light consumption.

Watering
Do NOT over water this plant especially in the winter times. It is best to allow the snake plant to dry out, nearly completely, between watering. Although this should be left to personal judgement based on the area you live in, at best estimate, watering this plant every 2-3 weeks, is sufficient. When watering, be sure to use tepid to room temperature water so as not to shock the roots. Because the snake plant is tropical in nature it enjoys humid locations and thrives well in bathrooms.

When watering, be sure to water at the root. This will help you avoid the most common snake plant problem: rust spots. Rust spots occur when water stands on the plant’s leaves or “tongues” during times of lower light. Also, in avoiding over-watering, you will avoid root rot, also common to snake plants.

Fertilizing and Feeding
The snake plant requires little to no feeding / fertilizing. It will survive and thrive on its own well. If you choose to fertilize, do so sparingly, once a year. Use a dissolvable , general purpose fertilizer once a year in the spring or summer. This is the primary growing season for snake plants.

Fun Fact
A little known fact about the snake plant is that NASA research has shown that the snake plant can help clear the air in your home, ridding it of toxins such as formaldehyde. In short, this is the perfect houseplant for pretty much anyone, in any space, and especially for those who are not great at remembering to water often!

Aloe Vera

Listed as one of NASA’s top air-improving plants, the fantastic Aloe works much like the Snake Plant – it emits oxygen at night, making for a more restful slumber. It’s also one of the easiest plants to grow and maintain – it tolerates ‘neglect’ well and so doesn’t require frequent watering.

Dubbed the ‘plant of immortality’ by the Egyptians, it reproduces easily so if you buy one you’ll soon have an Aloe plant for all the rooms in your house. You can even pass on the gift of happy sleep to your family and friends! Keep it on your bedroom window as it does need a lot of direct sunlight.

You can also use the gel from the Aloe Vera leaves as a topical treatment for minor cuts and burns, insect bites, dry skin and lots more! It’s simply a must-have plant in every home.


Aloe Vera


Gardenia


Gardenia

With glossy evergreen leaves and beautifully scented blossoms, Gardenias are a popular plant choice for bedrooms. Studies indicate that keeping one in your room may help you achieve a better quality of sleep, with claims that it may be as effective as Valium in relieving anxiety and promoting sleep.

However, gardenias can be tricky to maintain as they require a lot of attention in order to keep their luscious leaves and delicate flowers. Indoor gardenias should be kept in a bright room, but not placed in direct sunlight. But if you suffer with insomnia or anxiety, investing a little time in one of these beautiful blooms could be a cheap and healthier solution to taking pills!


Spider Plant

Not to be confused with the Snake Plant, the Spider Plant is also a champion cleanser of air. The NASA tests showed it to remove around 90% of the potentially cancer-causing chemical formaldehyde from the air. Since formaldehyde is found in common household products like adhesives, grout and fillers, it’s a good idea to keep one of these plants around.

In addition to cleansing the air, it will also absorb odors and fumes as well as sustaining oxygen levels in the room, promoting better sleep.


English Ivy

Another one of NASA’s top plants for purifying the air, English Ivy is simple to grow and only needs moderate exposure to sunlight.

Studies have shown that this leaf can improve symptoms of allergies or asthma – which all sufferers know can seriously impact both the quantity and quality of sleep. The American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology reported that, in a 2005 experiment, English Ivy removed 94% of airborne feces and 78% of airborne mold in just 12 hours! As mold can affect our breathing, it’s definitely a plant to have on hand for a great night’s sleep.

This evergreen vine looks great in an indoor hanging basket, or placed on a ledge where the leaves can trail down. It’s toxic to kids and pets though, so make sure to keep it out of reach!

Both English and Baltic ivies grow best in fertile, moist, well-drained soils that have lots of organic matter. They do tolerate a wide range of soil types. In hot summer climates, these ivies are best grown in partial shade to prevent leaf scald or browning from the intense sunlight or dry, warm soils.


Baltic ivy (Hedera helix var. baltica)


Bamboo Palm

Also known as a Reed Palm, this small plant is a fantastic air purifier. Ditch your chemical-laden air fresheners in favor of a few of these pretty palms and say goodbye to airborne smells and toxins.

Not only will you be able to enjoy your home’s pure, fresh air during the day, but you’ll enjoy a fantastic night’s sleep too.

Given its exotic origins, the Bamboo Palm will bring a tropical, warm feel to your bedroom. It’s fairly easy to care for – just keep the soil moist (but not wet) and place the plant in indirect sunlight.


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Areca palm Plant, Dypsis lutescens, also known as bamboo palm, golden cane palm, areca palm, yellow palm, or butterfly palm, is a species of flowering plant in the Arecaceae family, native to Madagascar and naturalized ... Wikipedia

Scientific name: Dypsis lutescens


Victorian Parlor Palm [Neanthe bella]

It thrives in our homes and workplaces where other species may struggle and is one of the cheapest palms you can buy. Popular since Victorian times it has kept hold of this prestige through its easy going adaptive attitude to low light and humidity levels, all the while being effective at cleaning the air and making it on to NASA's list of 50 Indoor plants that clean the air. This is an equally great plant to start with for the beginner or the seasoned houseplant collector.

Whilst a slow grower it should reach a respectable indoor height of 2ft / 60cm within only a few years, after which you may (with good light) receive regular clusters of flowers and for a palm kept indoors that is pretty rare.

you may find it going by Collinia elegans or Chamaedorea elegans.

Low light will be tolerated but like all houseplants deep shade will not go down well (unless for only short periods). Some sun will be helpful, but harsh sunshine will scorch the leaves. The perfect spot for your Parlour Palm therefore should be bright with a little sun in early morning or late afternoon.

Underwatering a Parlour Palm is better than overwatering. Water well then wait until the surface of the soil has dried out, at which point water well again. Limit the amount of water given when light or temperature levels are low simply because in those conditions plant's don't use as much water.

Red Spider Mite can be an issue if humidity is very low or there is a lot of dry air around the leaves, for example if placed near a working radiator. However, providing Spider Mites aren't a problem this is a palm that really doesn't care about low or high humidity.

Because there are often several plants in a single pot all fighting for the limited number of nutrients in the soil, you should look to feed on a semi regular basis. That said, these palms are still relatively small and don't need masses of feed to do well. A general feed once every couple of months will be enough.


Golden Pothos [Devil's Ivy]

With its marbled, heart-shaped leaves, the Golden Pothos is another exceptional air purifying plant according to NASA. Removes toxins.

Those with a busy schedule will particularly welcome this ivy-like vine. Not only will you have a better quality of sleep but you need not worry too much about nurturing it – a couple of hours of morning sun and a little water once a week is all it requires.

It makes a great hanging plant too – which curbs its invasive nature and keeps its mildly toxic leaves out of the reach of pets and children.


When Adding Plants to Your Home:

Remember to wipe the leaves every week or so to ensure the plants can effectively do their job – just look at it as the equivalent of changing the filter in your air purifier!

Choose a good mix of those that purify the air and those that induce sleep through their scent for optimum results.

NASA recommend between 15 and 18 air-purifying plants in an 1800 square foot home, with a few of these in each bedroom.

Houseplants Care blog



My Houseplants

10/12/16 Ordered Baltic English Ivy. 4" pot. Many different plants have the word "ivy" in their common names, but most often ivy refers to plants belonging to the botanical genus Hedera. Among the most widely used in outdoor gardens, as indoor houseplants or grown as topiaries, is the species called English ivy (Hedera helix). Baltic ivy (Hedera helix var. baltica) is a natural variant of English ivy although nurseries and literature may list this plant as a cultivar.


Baltic ivy (Hedera helix var. baltica)

Both English and Baltic ivies grow best in fertile, moist, well-drained soils that have lots of organic matter. They do tolerate a wide range of soil types. In hot summer climates, these ivies are best grown in partial shade to prevent leaf scald or browning from the intense sunlight or dry, warm soils.


Baltic ivy (Hedera helix var. baltica)

10/17/16 Noticed, while watering, a chile piquine, the fruit just ripening, to the left of the rosebush.

I also noticed a small wildflower, either Butterfly Pea [Centrosema virginianum], Dayflower [Commelina erecta], False Day Flower [Commelinantia anomala], or Granite Spiderwort [Tradescantia pedicellata].


Granite Spiderwort [too open] / False Day Flower [very close, even the same foliage, but too open]


Day Flower [very close, same foliage, but too open] / Butterfly Pea [too open and wrong foliage]

The blue flower petals were partially closed over the yellow stamin. It remains a mystery for me. The foliage is like the Day Flower, but the bloom is closer to a pea.

I also noticed a morning glory. It looked like Purple Bindweed [Ipomoea trichocarpa], but very blue. Maybe a typical morning glory but seeded by wild birds?

When I was a teenager tending my horse, a Winecup [Callirhoe sp.]. I was struck by its beauty.

10/19/16 Rec'd Lavender French Province 4" pot.

10/29/16 Ordered Victorian Parlor Palm [Neanthe bella].


Houseplants for Removing Indoor Air Pollution

5 houseplants for removing indoor air pollution New research finds that certain houseplants are best for removing specific harmful compounds.

It’s not new news that houseplants are beautiful little workhorses when it comes to human health. Among their many benefits is one decidedly impressive one – they remove toxins from the air.


1. Jade plant / 2. Spider plant

Meanwhile, indoor air pollution is a constant problem and a threat to human health. So looking further into the idea of how houseplants can fend off the potentially harmful effects of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), a main category of air pollutants, a team of researchers have made some new discoveries. They found that certain plants are better at removing specific compounds from the air – this is especially meaningful for indoor air, as studies have shown that interior air can have three to five times more pollutants than outside.


5. Dracaena / Jade Plant

"Buildings, whether new or old, can have high levels of VOCs in them, sometimes so high that you can smell them," says Vadoud Niri, Ph.D., leader of the study.

VOCs include things like acetone, benzene and formaldehyde – they are emitted as gases and can cause short- and long-term health effects. They are invisible to the eye and come from common things many of us have around the house, things as innocent-seeming as furniture, copiers and printers, cleaning supplies and even dry-cleaned clothes.


3. Bromeliad / 4. Caribbean tree cactus [Consolea falcata]

They found that all of the plants were good at removing acetone, but the dracaena plant took up the most, around 94 percent of the chemical. The bromeliad plant was great at removing six of the eight VOCs, taking up more than 80 percent of each over a 12-hour sampling period. Likewise, the jade plant was very good for toluene.

Be sure to watch the video at the end of the page.

5 Health Benefits of Houseplants

15 houseplants for improving indoor air quality

5 Common Houseplants That Clean the Air for a Healthier Home

By taking in carbon dioxide and converting it to oxygen during photosynthesis, plants and trees naturally remove excess carbon from the air. During photosynthesis, foliage also removes from the atmosphere other chemicals, such as nitrogen oxides, airborne ammonia, some sulfur dioxide and ozone that are part of the smog and greenhouse effect problems. Plants also affect air quality by acting as collection sites for dust and other air particles. So, by adding plants to your environment, you are cleaning up your indoor air and helping the planet.

In addition, these researchers, including Dr. Bill Wolverton, formerly a senior research scientist at NASA, have found many common houseplants absorb benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene. In the NASA study, each plant type was placed in sealed, Plexiglas chambers in which chemicals were injected. The results surprised everyone.

“Plants take substances out of the air through the tiny openings in their leaves,” according to Wolverton. “But research in their labs has determined that plant leaves, roots and soil bacteria are all important in removing trace levels of toxic vapors.”

Did you know that one potted plant per 100 square feet will clean the air in an average office? Although not a replacement for an air purifier, NASA says that 15 to 18 good-sized plants in 6 to 8-inch diameter containers will improve air quality in an average 1,800 space. But, not just any plant, there's a certain 50 plants that work the best.

here are the top five plants that are most effective in removing formaldehyde, benzene and carbon monoxide from the air, according to the study.


Areca Palm / Lady Palm


Bamboo Palm / Rubber Plant


Dracaena “Janet Craig” / Chinese Evergreen [Aglaonema Crispum 'Deborah'


Easy House Plants

16 houseplants that are almost impossible to kill


low light needs: Snake Plant [Sansevieria trifasciata] / Parlor Palm, [Chamaedorea elegans]


Light needs medium: Spider plant [Chlorophytum comosum] / Rubber plant [Ficus elastica ‘Decora’]


Light needs medium: Dracaena [Dracaena] / Vining Pothos [Epipremnum aureum]


Light needs low: Peace lily [Spathiphyllum wallisii] / Boston fern [Nephrolepsis exaltata]


A Mediterranean Garden for Texas

A Mediterranean Garden for Texas

San Antonio’s climate and geology are ideal for a Mediterranean garden. Our climate similarities include short wet winters, long springs, hot dry summers and mild falls. Soils in both regions are characterized by thin soils on a limestone substrate, alkaline clays and some sandy areas.

As for large, expansive lawns, they derive from England and northern Europe where temperatures are cooler and rain is more regular, and are very rarely part of any Mediterranean garden. In fact, our Hill Country-like soils present the perfect opportunity for colorful, drought-hardy lawn alternatives.

Mediterranean garden design elements include:

  • Well placed container plants. Invest in one or two large pots instead of lots of little ones, they’re easier to care for and more impactful.

  • Fountains create a serene atmosphere and are a better use of water than a thirsty lawn.

  • Fragrant plants like mountain laurel, sweet olive or confederate jasmine.

  • Interesting textures and vivid colors in the form of plants or paint. Textural plants include Texas persimmon, nolina, giant crinum lily or fuzzy lamb’s ear. For vivid color try Moy Grande hibiscus, Pride of Barbados, esperanza or plumbago.

Since Mediterranean weather often means hot you will want to incorporate a shady retreat and an outdoor-rated ceiling fan, if possible. Be sure to include a nice size table and enough chairs so you can gather with family and friends as you enjoy your Mediterranean fare.


Ferns

6 Different Ferns You Can Grow Indoors The diversity of type of ferns lends difficulty to the decision which to grow… in pots or in hanging baskets. In making selections there are a number of important considerations – the plant’s ultimate size, its suitability for pot culture and whether it is what could be called an evergreen.


The bird nest fern (Asplenium nidus) / Cyrtomium Falcatum – The Holly Fern

Cyrtomium Falcatum – The Holly Fern

potted cyrtomium falcatum holly fern A fern that fully meets the above requirements is the holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum), a native of Japan, Korea and China.

The plant grows from 18-20 inches high, with an equal spread. The once divided, leathery fronds are dark, shiny green and the divisions, sickle shaped. In one form the margins are deeply cut and the ends, long-pointed, causing a resemblance to true holly. Once established, holly fern survives drought and chill temperatures. Grown in humidity, it stands winter sun.

There are several forms of holly fern, all about the same size and grown under similar culture.

The Boston Fern [Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis]

No fern collection in the home would be complete without the popular old-timer, the Boston fern. The true Boston fern scientific name is (Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis) is a horticultural form discovered by chance by a florist among his ferns in the early nineties (1890’s). Its parent is a tropical species, Nephrolepis exahata, native to Cuba, Mexico, South America, and Malaya.

The Boston fern grows to two feet or more, is once-divided, with the frond divisions entire and slightly ruffled. At first erect, the fronds arch over with age, having continuous length of growth, unless injured.

There are nearly 100 named and described descendents or forms, all sports and all creeping. For a large, erect form, with older fronds arching and drooping, look for a variety called Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, with much ruffled divisions having margins slightly cut. The plant grows to 18 inches and it care is of easy culture. Having about the same size and form but with fronds more deeply cut is the Boston fern form splendida.

Lace fern (Nephrolepis exaltata whitmanii) is smaller, much more cut and divided. The erect fronds arch over the pot sides, reaching only 10 inches in height.


Lace fern (Nephrolepis exaltata whitmanii)

Another nephrolepis is the sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia). It lacks its Boston cousin’s grace, the fronds being more narrow and more erect. An important advantage, however, is its hardiness and easy culture and care. Overwatering is the greatest source of difficulty. It survives full sun, but is most attractive when grown in partial shade.


sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia)

Quick Care Tips For Nephrolepis Ferns
Keep the fronds of all nephrolepis on the dry side. Do all watering directly into the pots. Varieties with finely divided fronds require more care. Night temperatures above 50 degrees F. are best. Provide light but no direct sunshine and plenty of ventilation for most varieties.

All the Boston ferns are sterile. New plants are produced from runner-like off-shoots, more properly known as stolons. To propagate, cover the stolons lightly while they are still attached to the mother fern. If there are a large number of new stolons, remove some because they retard the parent plant’s growth.


The Boston Fern / Davallia Fern

The Polystichum Ferns

Another Fern which has finely cut foliage is the soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum proliferum). It has dense, deep green fronds which arch over the pot sides. Native to Tasmania, it has a number of close relatives in temperate zones around the world.

It reaches a foot in height, with a slightly larger spread. The fronds are numerous, long and tapering. It is propagated by spores or from young ferns produced along the axis or midrib on the frond uppersides. It can also be propagated by pinning down the fronds over a layer or moist peat moss, and maintaining good circulation of air and humidity.


the soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum proliferum)

Useful in both dish gardens and planters is the tususima holly fern (Polystichum tsushima), native to Japan and China--also called the Korean Rock Fern. It is as a young plant that tususima holly Fern makes a good dish garden subject. The leathery, dark green fronds are twice divided. Ten to 12 inches in height, it slowly spreads, forming dense chimps.


the tususima holly fern (Polystichum tsushima)

It is of easy culture and will withstand strong light. Like the true holly fern, it is most successfully grown in slightly acid or neutral soil.

Davallia Ferns

For something really different, try the epiphytic [epiphyte-a plant that grows on another plant but is not parasitic, such as the numerous ferns, bromeliads, air plants, and orchids growing on tree trunks in tropical rain forests] members of the genus Davallia. All are evergreen, with fronds erect and finely divided. Being tropical in origin, they cannot withstand even light frost.

One of the group, the Squirrel's Foot fern (Davallia mariesii), native to Japan, it was once imported as a novelty, coming in the shapes of animals, monkeys, clowns or fern balls. Others are the hares’ foot fern (Davallia trichomanoides), from Japan, Ceylon and Malaya, the various forms of Fiji Davallia – (Davallia fejeensis), from the Fiji islands, and the members of the closely allied genus Humata, the hears’ foot fern (humata tyermanii) and other small or medium epiphytic ferns.


the Squirrel's Foot fern (Davallia mariesii) its rhizomes are covered with fine white hairs. I've always thought these 'legs' look more like tarantulas

The epiphytic ferns can be grown in pots, but are more showy and successful grown on pieces of cork, oak logs or wire baskets. High humidity, plenty of filtered, overhead light and good drainage, with no over-watering, are the recipe for healthy ferns of this group. Water thoroughly but infrequently, placing the container in a pan or bucket of water for a complete wetting.

Use coarse potting materials, try a mixture of potting mix and perlite in a 2 to 1 mixture. During potting, do not plant the creeping rhizome in the potting medium. Compress the root systems with sphagnum moss, avoiding root injury.

All the members of the group are slow in starting from divisions or spores. Especially during this early period be very careful not to overwater. Once the plants are established, however, they are easily cared for and can survive considerable neglect.

The following group of terrestrial (or soil grown) ferns are small to medium in size and of easy indoor pot culture.

The Australian cliff brake (Pellaea falcata) creeps to form tight, 10-inch high clumps. Give it light, but no sun, and add finely ground limestone to the soil mixture.


The Australian cliff brake (Pellaea falcata) from New Zealand

Pellaea rotundifolia from New Zealand grows six to 10 inches tall, is shade loving and drought resistant. Use a soil mixture of leafmold, a little broken lime and rocks.


Button fern [Pellaea rotundifolia]

The Mexican flowering fern (llavea cordifolia) is also an unusual specimen. It reaches 10-12 inches in height, prefers shade. Keep fronds dry and do not overwater the plant. Fertile fronds are much contracted and divided at their ends, slightly resembling green flowers.


The Mexican flowering fern (llavea cordifolia)

The Pteris Ferns

An attractive group are the ferns of the genus Pteris, sometimes known as table ferns, most of which can be grown from divisions as well as spores. They prefer a soil mixture containing a sprinkle of ground limestone, an acceptable mixture being of fibrous loam, leafmold and sand with some well rotted [compost], ground cow manure added.

The Cretan brakes (Pteris cretica 'mayii') reach more than a foot in height, growing in clumps from very short, slowly creeping rhizomes. Found throughout the tropics and sub-tropics, they were first discovered on the island of Crete. Apart from requirements of filtered light and soil kept moist but not wet, Cretan brake needs little care.


the Cretan brakes (Pteris cretica)

The variegated Club Foot fern (Pteris cretica 'mayii').


The variegated Club Foot fern (Pteris cretica 'mayii')

Varieties are the ribbon brake (Pteris cretica albo lineata), a variegated form from Japan.


the ribbon brake (Pteris cretica albo lineata)

Another pteris species is the Chinese or spider brake (Pteris multifida, often sold as Pteris serrulata), of Chinese and Japanese origin. Divisions are narrower than in the Cretan brake and continue growing down along the midvein. The plant is densely leaved and has a spread and height of about a foot.


the Chinese or spider brake (Pteris multifida)

White foliage areas contrasting with bright green make the silver brake (Pteris argyraea) from India and eastern Asia an outstanding species. Its erect leaves are taller and are differently divided than the other pteris.


the silver brake (Pteris argyraea)

San Diego Fern Society


The Pteris Ferns / The Mother Fern

The Mother Fern

A large and showy specimen is the mother fern (Asplenium bulbiferum), a native of New Zealand, Australia, India and Malaya. It reaches a height of 18 inches, with medium green fronds arching over to give the plant a spread of 20 inches or more. Very proliferous, it produces bulblets and also grows young plants on the upper frond sides, source of its common name, mother fern. It can also be grown from spores.


the mother fern (Asplenium bulbiferum)

The bird nest fern (Asplenium nidus) is even larger than the mother fern, reaching over three feet when grown outside in subtropical areas. Fronds are not divided, but are sometimes slightly wavy and are of a leathery texture. In nature epiphytic, pot bird nest fern in leaf-mold, peatmoss or ground fir bark. Give it occasional fertilizer.


The bird nest fern (Asplenium nidus)

Another excellent pot subject with a yen for a bit of lime in the soil mixture is the hart’s tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium). A large fern in the wilds, it doesn’t reach more than a foot high grown in pots. It is found in Europe, Asia and Africa as well as parts of the United States. A form from England, more cut and varied in size than the others, is most commonly grown indoors.


the hart’s tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium)


Wandering Jew

Purple Queen Plant, Purple Heart Plant, Heart Purple, Purple Hearts, Wandering Jew Plant, Purple Wandering, Aka Wandering, Heart Wandering, Garden Bahcemden

How to Take Care of a Wandering Jew Plant Wandering Jews are beautiful plants known for their solid or variegated leaves. These hardy perennials thrive outdoors as groundcover or in pots which allow their tendrils to cascade. They are relatively easy to care for and incredibly simple to propagate, making them great houseplants.


Wandering Jew

Wandering Jew plants are native to South America and prefer lots of sunlight and warm temperatures, around 55–75 °F (13–24 °C). This shouldn't be a problem if you're going to keep the plant inside; however, you'll need to make sure conditions are suitable if you plan on growing the plant outside. Refer to Part 2 about getting enough sunlight.

The Wandering Jew plant grows best in zones 9-11. According to the U.S.D.A. map, much of the South and a narrow strip of the West Coast make up these zones.


Wandering Jew

Choose an adequate pot for your plant. You can use a regular gardening pot with a saucer or a hanging basket. Regardless of what you choose, make sure there are holes for water drainage.

If you use a hanging basket, remember to turn it daily so it gets equal amounts of sunlight. Be sure to choose a pot that's not too heavy, especially if you plan on hanging it.

You might want to pick a plastic pot instead of a ceramic one for this reason. A lighter pot will also make it easier to move inside in case of frost.

Pot your Wandering Jew plant. Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting soil, then place the plant in the center of the pot. Add soil to surround and fill in the sides. Gently press down on the soil around your plant and water it till the soil is completely moistened.

Give your plant enough sunlight. If you can, give them a combination of direct and filtered sunlight. An eastern facing windowsill is a good spot for Wandering Jew plants. They'll receive bright indirect light throughout the day, but watch to make sure the space doesn't become too hot in the afternoon. If so, move the pot a few feet away or use a curtain to filter the light.

If the plant primarily remains outside, find a spot that receives indirect sunlight. This could be on a porch that gets morning sun for several hours. Just make sure that it's not sitting in direct sunlight without any shade for most of the day.

Water your plant often. Wandering Jews like the soil to be moist, but they don't want to drown! Every day, stick your finger inside the soil. If it feels dry, add enough water to completely moisten the soil. Excess water should run out of the bottom of your pot.

If you've set your pot on a saucer, be sure to empty the saucer when it fills. Make sure not to water straight into the crown of the plant or it may rot.[3] You can water the plant less during the winter months, when its growth slows.[4] Simply let it remain a little dry for a bit longer before watering.

Fertilize regularly.Every two weeks, give your plant some liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer that has been diluted with an equal part of water.

Liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer is considered to be an all-purpose fertilizer made up of ten percent nitrogen, ten percent phosphorous, and ten percent potassium. Read the container's instructions carefully, as some liquid fertilizers may actually be powders requiring you to mix in water.

Fertilizing is only necessary during the heaviest growing season, from spring to early fall.

Prune your plant. To keep your plant from becoming leggy, pinch back or cut the stems above the leaf node. Don't be afraid of cutting too much! You can prune back about a quarter of the plant. This will encourage the plant to fill in rather than continue to grow out through tendrils.

The best time to prune is during the spring and summer months, when the plant is putting on the most growth. After you've pruned, give the plant a chance to put on new shoots and fill in.

If you find your plant is too dense and bushy, you'll need to prune around the base so that the plant can get adequate circulation and sunlight.


Sage

Big Red Sage Salvia Penstemonides Salvia penstemonides, commonly known as big red sage, is a great Central Texas native plant that gets its species name from the fact that it looks a lot like a penstemon.

It has a large, mounding habit that isn’t common among the salvias, with larger, glossy, deep green leaves as well.

Big red sage produces towering, deep pinkish-red flower stalks, from late spring though summer. Said to be deer resistant, Salvia penstemenoides is hardy to zone 6, making it a perennial in Central Texas gardens.

As they do with most plants with similar spiky floral displays, hummingbirds flock to this plant when in flower.

Full sun is best, with perhaps a little protection from the harsh rays of the late afternoon.

And be very careful not to overwater big red sage, especially if you have clay in your soil, or it could rot. Consider amending the soil with a bit of porous material such as decomposed granite, but don’t overdo it; big red sage doesn’t like to completely dry out, either.

Adding a little organic matter, such as compost, would help keep the soil porous and moist at the same time: an ideal balance for this striking plant.

Big red sage gets about two feet tall and half as wide in most gardens and as with other perennials, will need to be sheared back in late winter to reinvigorate them and encourage new growth.

some helpful advice for growing sage Today, we're going to focus on growing sage indoors, since we think it's one of the best ways to enjoy the tasty herb year-round.

Plant sage from seeds, seedlings, or cuttings in a well-draining soil in a container with drainage. Sage needs to grow in moist soil and in a sunny location. For ample lighting, use fluorescent lights or move your containers to a sunny location outdoors for several hours each day.

You can harvest your sage leaves as needed, after the first year of growth to allow the plant to become established. Store dry sage in an airtight container until needed, or in the freezer.

benefits of growing sage indoors

Sage is a popular herb used in a number of dishes, and a small amount of this herb goes a long way. It also has several medicinal uses, from use in mouthwash for oral hygiene, or use in a gargle for sore throats. You can even apply fresh sage leaves to a bug bite or sting to relieve pain and itching.

If you have a safe place in your home with plenty of sunlight, sage can grow well indoors and provide you with fresh sage year-round. You can choose to grow sage indoors to begin establishing your plants for transplanting to your garden, or grow it indoors to prevent it from pest infestation and weather.

Sage grows vigorously and does not require a lot of maintenance. However, as with most plants, there are a few things you can do to ensure that it has what it needs for optimal growth.

First, choose the type of sage you want to grow. Sage varieties come in several leaf colors, blooms, and tastes, so research types that meet your needs. If you’re looking for a variety of color for your indoor sage, you can partner green garden sage with colorful varieties, like golden sage or purple garden sage. You can even opt for sages with unique scents, like grape scented sage.

Types of Sage:

There are many different types of sage or salvia plants available. They may be either perennial or annual, blooming to non-blooming, but pretty much each of these different types of sage is fairly hardy.

Culinary Sage Plants

Garden or common sage (Salvia officinalis) is the most common type of sage used for cooking. You can also make tea from the leaves. It is very hardy and bounces back in the spring even after a severely cold winter. This particular sage has soft, silvery green leaves that can be used fresh or dried. It is also known to attract beneficial insects, which are attracted to its purple-blue flowers.

There are a number of these common garden sage plant varieties.

There is a smaller dwarf that doesn’t exceed a foot in height and blooms with purplish-blue flowers.

A purple garden sage whose leaves, as the name suggests, are purple when young. Purple sage doesn’t bloom often like some of the other garden sages.

Golden sage is a creeping sage with gold and green variegated leaves that accentuates the color of other plants.

Tricolor garden sage looks a bit like purple sage, except the uneven variegation includes white accenting.

Berggarten sage, which is very similar to common sage except that it does not bloom, but it does have the lovely soft, silvery green leaves.

Ornamental Sage Plants for Gardens

Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is a perennial flowering sage with tubular red flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Today, this beauty is primarily grown as an ornamental, but it is said to have medicinal uses as well.

Grape scented sage doesn’t smell like grapes, but rather more like freesia. It can get quite tall (8 feet by 6 feet). It is a late blooming plant that attracts hummingbirds. The leaves and flowers can be steeped to make tea.

Another common salvia amongst gardeners is Salvia splendens or scarlet sage (salvia). This is an annual plant that thrives in full sun but withstands partial shade in well-draining soil with consistent irrigation. Blossoms are scarlet in color and last from late spring through the first frost.

Mealycup sage is generally an annual in most regions. It attains a height of 2-3 feet and is punctuated with blue, purple or white flower spikes. Some newer varieties to look for are ‘Empire Purple,’ ‘Strata’ and ‘Victoria Blue.’

Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) grow to 3-4 feet, is drought tolerant, but a tender perennial otherwise. This beautiful accent plant has purple or white flower spikes.

There are many other varieties of sage plants for the garden (far too many to name here), whether you want them for their aromatic foliage or as an ornamental or both. Sage plants are a hardy addition to the garden and with so many varieties, you are sure to find one to suit you.

Newe Ya’ar Sage Salvia officinalis x S. fruticosa Newe Ya’ar sage, also known as silver sage, is a hybrid of Salvia officinalis and Salvia fruticosa. A culinary sage, it’s excellent in any foodie’s garden, but is also a great ornamental, even if you never plan to cook with it.

Developed by horticulturists in Newe Ya’ar, Israel, the goal was to develop a sage hardy enough to be commercially productive in Israel’s harsh climate, and they definitely succeeded with this cross.

Like many other soft-leaved Mediterranean herbs, Salvia officinalis, the common culinary sage, often struggles with our intense weather in the southern U.S. In spring, when humidity may be very high and days are often cloudy, garden sage may rot overnight. And in the summer, when humidity is low and the sun is bright, it may burn to a crisp under our intense rays and off-the-chart heat. These conditions can also affect the volatile compounds in culinary herbs that give them their valuable flavor.

With silver sage, you not only get a plant that looks great and performs well in our harsh southern climate, but it also retains its savory taste.

Plant in full sun and well-drained soil, and like other culinary herbs, water sparingly, except in the hottest, driest times. It’s listed as hardy into USDA Zone 8 and so may be winter hardy in your garden, which would allow it to live several years and potentially get 3 or 4 feet wide and tall.

And, as if you needed any more reasons to plant silver sage, it will be covered in delicate spring blooms, serving as a valuable pollen source for bees and other pollinators.

some helpful advice for growing sage Today, we're going to focus on growing sage indoors, since we think it's one of the best ways to enjoy the tasty herb year-round. Plant sage from seeds, seedlings, or cuttings in a well-draining soil in a container with drainage.

Sage needs to grow in moist soil and in a sunny location. For ample lighting, use fluorescent lights or move your containers to a sunny location outdoors for several hours each day. You can harvest your sage leaves as needed, after the first year of growth to allow the plant to become established. Store dry sage in an airtight container until needed, or in the freezer.

what are the benefits of growing sage indoors?

Sage is a popular herb used in a number of dishes, and a small amount of this herb goes a long way. It also has several medicinal uses, from use in mouthwash for oral hygiene, or use in a gargle for sore throats. You can even apply fresh sage leaves to a bug bite or sting to relieve pain and itching.

If you have a safe place in your home with plenty of sunlight, sage can grow well indoors and provide you with fresh sage year-round. You can choose to grow sage indoors to begin establishing your plants for transplanting to your garden, or grow it indoors to prevent it from pest infestation and weather.

Sage is also the perfect herb to grow indoors because it prefers well-draining soil that containers provide.

preparing for growing sage indoors

Sage grows vigorously and does not require a lot of maintenance. However, as with most plants, there are a few things you can do to ensure that it has what it needs for optimal growth.

First, choose the type of sage you want to grow. Sage varieties come in several leaf colors, blooms, and tastes, so research types that meet your needs. If you’re looking for a variety of color for your indoor sage, you can partner green garden sage with colorful varieties, like golden sage or purple garden sage. You can even opt for sages with unique scents, like grape scented sage.

Next, choose a container proper for drainage, as sage needs moist, but not wet, soil. If your containers don’t drain well enough, sage will rot quickly. Clay pots can help assist your soil drainage.

Your containers should be at least one foot in diameter, since sage grows in a bush-like shape, although you can begin them in small pots to transfer to larger ones later if you prefer.

Find a location in your home free from disturbances by children or pets to become the home for your sage. Pick a spot that gets plenty of sunlight for the majority of the day. If you don’t have one, consider using a fluorescent lighting system underneath a cabinet or grow lamps for your sage.

Sage needs a well-draining potting mix, such as the type you’d use for growing a cactus. Alternatively, mix two parts potting mix with one part perlite, which aids in aeration of the soil. Ensure that your soil remains consistently moist for ample growth.

If you want to plant more than one sage plant in a container, make sure your pot is large enough to have about 18 to 24 inches of space between each plant. For indoor growth of sage, it’s usually best to plant only one sage plant in each container.

However, you may also consider planting sage with other herbs you grow indoors, like rosemary or basil, to add a pleasant, herbal fragrance to a room.

To start your new crop of sage, either purchase seedlings from a nursery or grow from seed. Either one can be placed an inch or so into the soil. Move soil over seeds or around the base of seedlings. Water enough to keep the soil moist.

Once you have established sage plants, you can propagate sage plants to grow more. This process creates cuttings, which you can then plant to form new roots and begin a growing a new sage plant.

To get a cutting from an established sage plant, you can clip about three inches of a cutting from the end of a stem. Apply a rooting hormone to the cut end of the stem to encourage root growth. Plant the cut end into vermiculite in a small container, and allow it to remain for about 6 weeks, when you should begin to get root growth. Gary Pilarchik provides a helpful video to show how to replant small cuttings:


Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera There are over 200 species of aloe, but we are most familiar with this one because of its gooey sap. It’s in everything from sunburn gel to nutritional supplements. It’s an easy succulent to grow.

It does best when almost completely ignored, so don’t over water it or pay too much attention to it. It is sensitive to frost, so it’s best in a container that you can bring in and protect.

It also rots easily, so don’t overwater or use any compost in the soil around it. Use about half sand, half potting soil in your containers for this plant.

It does love the heat, but it gets scorched in a full day of intense summer sun here in Texas, so it will do fine in a little shade. It will usually be a deeper green in those lower-light intensity areas as well.

Aloe vera produces a lot of offsets, little plantlets that emerge at the base of the stem of your original plant. They can get pretty scraggily if left to their own devices, so it’s best to divide them once those plantlets have begun to get out of control in the container.


Peperomia

Growing Peperomia Plants: Care, Propagation, Pest and Disease Wonderful, Adaptable And A Favorite Houseplant.

Peperomias have long been favorite indoor houseplants due to their adaptability to the atmosphere of the house as well as their attractive foliage and compact growth habit.


Peperomia a perennial related to pepper plants, comes from a large South American family (about 1,000 species, a few from Africa). In fact, the name alone means “the plant related to the pepper.”

Generally, any of the 1,000 – relatively slow growing – peperomias along with many cultivars will only achieve an overall maximum height of 10-12 inches high. Some varieties of Peperomia make good hanging plant specimens.

The long flower spikes are covered closely with very tiny flowers have no scent.

These plants are easy to grow in the house. They like warmth, but do not need high humidity. They like bright light, but do not need direct sunlight. In fact, peperomia obtusifolia makes a good ground cover in shade.

Peperomias do not like deep shade or strong sunlight, two very big extremes. Grow them somewhere in between and you’ll be fine.

During the summer months, temperatures between 68 – 78 F. In the winter, temperatures should not go below 50 F.

Do not over-water these plants. Watering every 7 – 10 days should be enough, depending on time of year and temperature.

Peperomias resent overwatering and will rot off at the base. Personally, I like to let the soil dry completely between waterings. This will greatly help prevent root rot.

Apply a balanced liquid plant food every 3 watering during the “growing” summer months.

Generally, peperomias do not need repotting. In fact, they do better under potted than over potted.

However, repot when the plant becomes too large for its pot. When repotting, use a well-draining soil (50% peat moss /50% perlite).

At any time of the year, if the plant gets scraggly or out of hand, it may require pruning.


Peperomia propagation is as easy as taking a few tip, leaf or stem cuttings. Using a very light rooting media and dipping the ends in a rooting hormone, tips and leaves root quickly.

Learning to root peperomia cuttings will help keep plants in shape. They can, become straggly and “wild” over time.

Soil plays an important role in rooting peperomia. Since most peperomia plants have small root systems, use a well-drained soil that gets lots of air.

A soil mix like a 50/50 mix of peatmoss & perlite, is simple and reliable for rooting and growing peperomias.

Most peperomias will propagate from leaf cuttings like African violets. The best time for propagation is spring, but rooting can also be done in fall.



Pentas [Pentas lanceolata] or [Pentas ledermannii]

Pentas is a genus of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family. The genus is found in tropical and southern Africa, the Comoros, Madagascar, and the Arabian Peninsula. Wikipedia


Pentas Flowers, the Egyptian Star Cluster Pentas are semi-tropical shrubs grown as annuals that seem to be tailor-made for butterflies. The nectar-rich flowers grow in clusters over a long blooming season in the vibrant red, pink, and purple shades that act as a butterfly beacon. Bees like them too, so consider adding this plant to a landscape space you want buzzing with activity.

The genus Penta, species lanceolata, belongs to the Rubiaceae family.

You may see pentas described on plant tags by the common names star flower, Egyptian star flower, or star cluster. You can grow pentas anywhere as an annual; in growing zones 9 and warmer the plants may even perennialize.

The average height of pentas is 24-36 inches, but plants that perennialize in frost free zones may reach four feet tall or greater. The dark green foliage of penta plants is slightly fuzzy, and the five-petaled blossoms grow in 3-inch clusters similar to other butterfly favorites like sedum, lantana, and Queen Anne’s lace. Blossom colors include pink, purple, white, and red.


Full sun is preferred, although some afternoon shade is tolerated. Plants that receive at least three hours of direct sun will have the best blooms. Pentas that don’t receive enough sunlight will stretch and become leggy. Pentas appreciate a mildly acidic soil pH, in the range of 6.0.

Amending the soil with compost or leaf mold can increase the acidity of your soil if it’s on the alkaline side. Many gardeners choose penta transplants to start in the garden, but you can try planting fresh penta seed saved from last year’s flowers, or start softwood cuttings taken early in the growing season.

Penta seeds require light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil.


Penta plants can stay in bloom continuously under ideal growing conditions, so it's worth a bit of weekly care to keep the plants in optimum condition.

Pentas need regular irrigation to stay healthy; keep the soil moisture about the same as a wrung out sponge. Pentas tolerate dry conditions, but drought stressed plants are susceptible to spider mite infestations.

Avoid regular overhead watering to prevent unsightly brown spots on the foliage.

In frost free growing zones, pentas will exhibit their shrubby nature and begin to grow leggy after one growing season. Prune the plants to six inches in January, when bloom production is at its lowest. After several seasons, the stems of the pentas may become so woody that it’s worth replacing them altogether.

When growing as an annual for one season, no pruning is necessary, but regular deadheading will keep the plants blooming productively.

Fertilize pentas once a month with a balanced flower fertilizer during periods of active growth.

Pentas thrive in containers or tubs, and they also look cheerful in the ground combined with other hot weather lovers.


You can plant pentas alongside other vivid butterfly annuals, like zinnias, marigolds, cornflowers, or gomphrena. Gardeners with high indoor light levels can try their luck at growing the penta as a houseplant, but whiteflies may plague plants grown indoors.

Pentas Varieties to Try

‘Butterfly’ series: Easy to grow from seed
‘Graffiti’ series: Compact mounding plants
‘Kaleidoscope Appleblossom’: Pale pink and rose on the same flower; an early bloomer
‘New Look’ series: Upright plants that don’t flop
‘Northern Lights’: Continues to produce pale lavender flowers in cool temperatures

How to Care for a Penta Plant Plant pentas in beds that drain well and don't become waterlogged after rain or irrigation. Select a site that receives six or more hours of direct sunlight daily.

Water the pentas when the top 2 to 4 inches of soil begins to dry out. Provide about 1 to 2 inches of water per plant or enough to thoroughly moisten the top 6 inches of soil. Allow the soil to dry before the next watering.

Fertilize annual plants monthly during the growing season.

Spread 2 inches of mulch around the plants each spring. Mulch keeps in soil moisture and prevents weed growth. Replenish the mulch layer in fall for perennial pentas to provide some insulation for the roots against winter cold.

Trim the dead and damaged stems from perennial plants in late winter, before new spring growth begins. Cut back overgrown or dead stems at any time during the growing season to improve the plant's appearance.


Containers

How To Care For Pentas Flower Pentas Flowers A Summer Long Show

The Pentas shines even in the hottest of summers, blooming bright, beautiful flowers making them an attractive hummingbird plant and butterfly plant by the dozens!

Pentas make a welcome addition to gardens due to their relatively low maintenance requirements. For the best results, start planting during late spring using a well-drained, moist soil and plenty of sunlight for good measure. The Pentas prefers a soil that doesn’t stay soggy after heavy rainfall or irrigation.

In addition to sunlight, Pentas care requires plenty of water. When you see soil begin to dry out, it’s time to water. Put in an inch or two of water for every 2 to 4 inches of dry topsoil. Repeat the watering cycle when the soil begins to dry out. Keep an eye on the watering schedule, especially in the hotter summer months, when plants may require more water.


Email Professor Colby Glass, MAc, MLIS, PhDc, Prof. Emeritus
at co@dadbyrn.com