Perennial Monthly To-Dos Hill Country Water Gardens & Nursery
Paw Paw Tree
Links to Perm. Sites|
Morag Bed Prep
Lasagna Bed Prep
Temperate Climate Permaculture
Planting Time Ref
Tenth Acre Farm a suburaban permaculture micro-farm in Cincinnati. Excellent articles!
CTG San Antonio Wonderland garden in San Antonio|Ragna & Bob Hersey|Central Texas Gardener
Sustainable SA Leslie Provence is a founding member and VP of the Food Policy Council of San Antonio. whose vision is "Fresh, healthy, affordable food available to all in a vibrant local food economy." On January 1, 2016, the City Council adopted Food Policy Council amendments for the Unified Development Code. Leslie will explain what the amendments cover and how folks can take advantage of them. They include the ability to grow and sell fruits, veggies, and cottage foods from your home garden or greenhouse, and the ability to farm on property other than your home. The topic of water use in sustainable versus conventional agriculture is also part of the discussion.
SA Permaculture in Practice meeting monthly
Financial Independence and Permaculture My favorite definition: permaculture is the opposite of disposable culture.
Edible Flowers arugula, borage, broccoli, calendula, white mallow, nasturtium, oregano, oxalia, chamomile, chives, comfrey, dill, ox-eye-daisy, sugar snap pea, evening primrose, elderberry, gladiolas, hens and chicks, black hollyhock, black rose, white rose, sage bergamot, squash, St. john's wort, white hollyhock, lavender, pink mallow, purple mallow, sweet rocket, thistle, violet, day lily
Bullock Brothers Homestead – A 25-Year Permaculture Project “A kind of a common premise in ecology certainly, and in permaculture as well, is that the edge, where two different distinct environments meet, is the richest interface, whether it’s between forest and field, whether it’s between land and sea, an estuary, and most major cities of the United States exist in such places. Port towns. Humans basically lived in wetland edges.”
Video: Orcas Island. Didn't like controlled environments like schools.
Paradise Lot: Food Forest Farm sell plants; but located in NE. Holyoke, MA.
Pawpaw Seedling 'improved' 14.95. Medium native tree, suckering to form colonies. Large, delicious fruit, sweet and custardlike with a tropical flavor. Delicious in cream pies and fruit desserts or out of hand. Fruit ripens late Septemer into October in Massachusetts. Very pest resistant. Need two for pollination. The seedings are from hardy, delicious, large fruiting stock. Light: Sun to Shade; Soil Composition: Loamy, well-drained; Soil Moisture: Prefers cool moist
Sea Kale $12.95 Clumping perennial vegetable, suckers if roots are broken by digging. Beautiful honey-scented flowers, fantastic edible broccolis. Ours are more than 10 years old. Tender tasty leaves can be harvested in fall without weakening plant.
Welsh Onion $8.95 This perennial scallion forms clumps, which can be thinned for harvest once or twice a year. Mild flavor with just the right amount of oniony zing. Lovely flowers too!
Korean Celery $11.95 Self-sowing perennial herb, attracts beneficial insects. Native to Korea. Celery-flavored leaves and stalk are tasty in soups, good for animal fodder too. Much more mild then it's cousin lovage.
Sunchoke $8.95 Very large native herb, running to form colonies. Produces sweet, nutty-flavored tubers, highly productive. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Cultivated by Native Americans for centuries. Soil Composition: Suitable for all soil types
Sweet Cicely $9.95 Medium-size perennial vegetable with beneficial insect-attracting flowers. Tender green seed pods taste like licorice jellybeans. Great for snacking. Roots traditionally used as sweetener. Leaves used as sweet potherb. Seeds disperse widely, deadhead seeds before ripening. Looks like a fern.
Turkish Rocket $9.95 Light: Full sun to partial shade; Soil Composition: Suitable for all soil types; Moisture: From moist to very dry, takes drought well. Robust, long-lived plant. Spreads by seed, roots will sprout when damaged. Beautiful yellow flowers, young broccolis are much like broccoli raab - nutty and mustardy.
Wild Leek (Ramp) $9.95 Native woodland wildflower, emerges in spring and then dies back for the summer. Leaves have a fantastic onion flavor and bulbs are strong like an onion-garlic mix. Great perennial vegetable for full shade. Popular vegetable for omelets, pastas - the sky's the limit! Light: Full shade to part shade; Taste: Sweet leek; Years to bear: 3 to 5
Temperate Climate Permaculture: Goumi goji berry
General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
Food source for wildlife... fruit may stay on the plant through the winter if not harvested.
Nitrogen fixing (i.e. it puts nitrogen back into the soil)
Hedges - leaves seem to shimmer in the breeze
Tolerates salt water, so can be used in maritime environments
Flowers are strongly scented... reminiscent of lilac
Used medicinally for hundreds (or more) years, but no reliable information
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-9, not frost tender
Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Multiple varieties, but many are not available in the U.S.
Pollination: Typically Self-Sterile; should be planted with two selections for cross-pollination and best crop yields
Flowering: Spring (April-June)
Years to Begin Bearing: 3-4 years, Years to Maximum Bearing: 5-10 years
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade
Moisture: Medium, however will tolerate dry soils
pH: tolerates a wide range of soil conditions (5.1 - 8.5)
Special Considerations for Growing: Goumi is an actinorhizal nitrogen fixing plant... it will grow best if inoculated with actinobacteria from the genus Frankia.
Temperate Climate Permaculture What's a Temperate Climate?
A Temperate Climate is often difficult to define, and then often, by default, it is defined by what it is not. It is not tropical. It is not polar. It is just in between. It is a place where there are typically four well defined seasons.
My name is John Kitsteiner. Please follow along as I share as much as I can about Permaculture, gardening, farming, homesteading, and self-sufficiency. This website is the product of a lot of research and some opinions.
I came across a book, “You Can Farm” by Joel Salatin. At first glace this was the exact book for which I was looking. However, as I read into it, I realized the author was anything but a typical farmer. As someone who never quite considered himself “ordinary”, I immediately identified with his anti-establishment attitude. But what I truly loved about Joel Salatin’s writing was that it just plain made sense. He wrote about minimizing work through intelligent design of farming systems, all with using almost no chemicals, and still producing a superior (e.g. better tasting) product.
This was my first exposure to alternative farming and food production. While he didn’t use the term, Joel Salatin was practicing Permaculture.
I continued to read as much as I could on the subject of alternative food production. This led me to books on hobby farming, self-sufficiency, and home gardening. My growing love of cooking dovetailed nicely with the growing options for superior tasting organic foods. Gone were the days of hippy, tree-huggers and their worm filled “organic” foods that tasted worse than what you got in the grocery store but weren’t “filled with no chemicals from the Man, man!” Organic food was being produced scientifically by people who were outside the norm but were not abnormal. And the food was better!
I had seen a few book titles for Permaculture during this time, but the covers of the books looked a bit odd. At first glance I dismissed these books, because they seemed a bit too hippy and “way out there” to me. There seemed to be an almost religious aura around these books that turned off my more logical mind. They also seemed to be dealing more with Australian agriculture, which it turns out they were since that is where Permaculture was developed.
Eventually, I read a book called “How to Make a Forest Garden” by Patrick Whitefield. This was truly the first Permaculture book that I read, although that term was rarely used in the book. The basic premise was designing a forest of plants (trees, shrubs, vines, etc.) that are useful to humans in a way that mimicked a natural forest. It was a simple concept, but it was, and still is, revolutionary to me.
From there I read the two textbooks on temperate climate forest gardening in North America, “Edible Forest Gardening” volumes I and II by Dave Jacke, then Gaia’s Garden by Toby Hemenway, and finally “Introduction to Permaculture” by the creator of Permaculture, Bill Mollison.
I finally realized what Permaculture was not. It was not a tree-hugger, hippy, pseudo-religious idea. It was not about a militant, eco-fanatic approach to conservation. It is not “way out there”. However regretable, you will find many who treat Permaculture in this way.
Permaculture is truly a scientific approach to land, plant, and animal management that still treats the natural world with a sense of awe and respect. Permaculture is about practical sustainability on an individual as well as societal basis. The science of Permaculture has a lot of breadth and depth, but basically, I think it is how I expected God wanted us to treat the land back in the Garden of Eden.
Udo USDA Hardiness Zone: Zone 4-9. However, there are a number of reports that this plant is only hardy to Zone 7 or 8. It is possible that there are some varieties that are more cold hardy. It is also possible that there is a lot of bad information being propagated on the internet and in books. There is not a whole lot of authoritative information available for this plant.
produce dark berries that are toxic to humans, but the birds love them! (note the ladybug/ladybird beetle on the stem)
Can grow in partial to full shade
This is a great plant for the deep shade areas of your gardens or behind structures.
Many growers recommend wind protection for this plant as the large leaves are susceptible to wind damage.
Vetch Yarrow is a small herbaceous plant that is currently used decoratively for its pretty flowers; however, in traditional times Yarrow was used as a food source and a medicinal plant (hence the name "soldier's woundwort"). It also happens to be drought resistant, a great groundcover tolerant of foot traffic, an attractor of beneficial insects, and much, much more. One of the most versatile plants in the food and Forest Garden.
The genus (Achillea) is named after the Greek mythological character Achilles whose soldiers used yarrow to staunch their wounds.
Other names for Common Yarrow was herbal militaris, staunchweed, soldier's woundwort, knight's milefoil, carpenter's weed, nosebleed weed, and many more... a plant used to stop bleeding at home, in the shop, or on the battlefield.
Leaves - raw or cooked. The young, tender leaves are much more palatable and are a great addition to a mixed greens salad. Cooked leaves are also good, with a sweet and bitter flavor combined - a good spinach substitute
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-10
GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Special Considerations for Growing:
Welcome to the Temperate Climate Permaculture Plant Index! Plants are categorized by their place in the Forest Garden and then listed alphabetically by common name. Please check back often as a new species is researched and added to the listing on about a weekly basis. To find out a bit more about Edible Forest Gardens, click here, and for more information on the nine layers of the Forest Garden, click here. I am also including links to my specific use listings of plants here:
Aromatic Pest Confusers for a Temperate Climate
Dynamic Accumulators for a Temperate Climate
The Facts Behind Dynamic Accumulators
Nitrogen Fixing Plants for a Temperate Climate
Pioneer Species for a Temperate Climate
Windbreak Plants for a Temperate Climate
Plants for Beneficial Insects
Trap Plant Species
Hugelkultur Permaculture Projects: Hugelkultur
Permaculture Sectors This is another core concept in Permaculture. A sector is a path of energy into or out of your Permaculture System. I mean energy in its true sense (not a quasi-spiritual one). There are many potential energies that can enter and leave your land. Let's look at a few of them:
Designing with Sectors
Viewing sectors on a map can be a bit confusing at first. Just remember that the home is the center of the circle, and all the other sectors radiate out from it. For example, using the Sector Map below, from the 10:00 position to the 2:00 position is an "Undesirable View..." (this is also from WNW to ENE if compass readings are your thing). Some sectors overlap, for instance the direction of the Winter Sun and Summer Sun.
The map below also shows the Permaculture Zones overlaid in shades of yellow and orange.
Sector Design is a vital part of planning your Permaculture System. Every place is unique, so take some time to consider how energy enters and leaves your location.
What is an Edible Forest Garden? Picture yourself in a forest where almost everything around you is food. Mature and maturing fruit and nut trees form an open canopy. If you look carefully, you can see fruits swelling on many branches—pears, apples, persimmons, pecans, and chestnuts. Shrubs fill the gaps in the canopy. They bear raspberries, blueberries, currants, hazelnuts, and other lesser-known fruits, flowers, and nuts at different times of the year. Assorted native wildflowers, wild edibles, herbs, and perennial vegetables thickly cover the ground. You use many of these plants for food or medicine. Some attract beneficial insects, birds, and butterflies. Others act as soil builders, or simply help keep out weeds. Here and there vines climb on trees, shrubs, or arbors with fruit hanging through the foliage—hardy kiwis, grapes, and passionflower fruits. In sunnier glades large stands of Jerusalem artichokes grow together with groundnut vines. These plants support one another as they store energy in their roots for later harvest and winter storage. Their bright yellow and deep violet flowers enjoy the radiant warmth from the sky. This is an edible forest garden.
ProcessDigging and turning over the soil exposes a very delicate ecosystem to the air which dries it out, and to the ultraviolet rays of the sun, which sterilize the soil – killing the soil organisms. The soil loses a lot of its nutrients, such as carbon and nitrogen. It also loses a lot of its organic matter, and as a consequence, does not retain water as well. The delicate soil structure is destroyed, compaction of soil occurs, leading to hardpan formation, and reduced water infiltration in the soil, and more surface runoff, which increases soil erosion. [DeepGreenPermaculture.com]
see Morag's Method
This type of landscaping, therefore, is called terracing. Graduated terrace steps are commonly used to farm on hilly or mountainous terrain. Terraced fields both decrease erosion and surface runoff, and may be used to support growing crops that require irrigation, such as rice. The rice terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the significance of this technique.
Earthworms, Castings, and FarmingCastings for sale 10 lb bag for $20. Texas Red Worms has farms in San Antonio and Livingston, Texas. 210-310-2046 or email KyleHarrell@hotmail.com
Worms for sale European Nightcrawlers are now available at TexasRedWorms.com. They can be used for composting just like the red worm, but are a bit larger, stronger and are deeper tunnelers than the top feeding red worm. Red Worms prefer piles of moist decaying organic matter (leaves, manure).
There are many different species of earthworm ranging in size and climate, most can be classified in one of two larger camps. The first being the deeper dwelling tunnelers (European Nightcrawler), and secondly the top feeding composters (Red Worm).
Care for both worms is similar and they can even co-habitate. The nightcrawlers are able to be added directly to your garden, flowerbed, or lawn, while the red worms would not fare so well. The red wigglers are more prolific smaller worm that will not scatter like the European nightcrawler, or Alabama Jumper. Both are well suited for composting and bin raising, and care is identical.
Texas Worm Farm located in Central Texas just outside Austin in Georgetown
Bragg: Worming his way out of ugly lawn Bad people will kill for money. Good ones will die for God and country.
On a related note, some guys will do really weird stuff to save their lawn.
For Kyle Harrell, that meant getting deeply into worms, or, to be more specific, what they eat, how they crawl and the poop they leave behind.
It's hard to make vermiculture - not worm culture, but the production of worms - sound attractive, but Harrell does a pretty good job. In a few short years, he has become an Annelid Evangelist.
Texas Red Worms is the name of his backyard worm farm, his blog, and they are the object of his affection. And by affection, I mean obsession. And by obsession, I mean it in a good way. He recently helped Texas State University, his alma mater, set up a composting and worm operation that uses scraps from the school cafeterias and food-service operations.
Worms, Harrell told me, are nature's gardeners.
When worms wiggle through the soil, they're aerating it, allowing air to mix with the dirt and make it healthier. And when they "do their business," the stuff they leave behind is the perfect fertilizer. In a show of deep affection, Harrell will add, "and they don't stink."
224 W Market, San Antonio, Texas 78211 (210) 219-5596
Earthworms enrich garden soils by composting Here's a promising get-rich-quick scheme for gardeners: It's called vermiculture, or worm composting, and along with super-sizing crop yields, it cuts water bills, conditions soils and repels troublesome insects.
"Vermiculture is a step up from working with the standard compost pile," said Dorothy Benoy, who with her husband, Al, owns the Happy D Ranch Worm Farm at Visalia, Calif. "It takes a bit more management, but the returns are greater."
Earthworms spend most of their time reproducing, eating and excreting, which is where their "vermicastings," or manure, comes in. Set them up for housekeeping in homemade tubs or specially made bins and you have the structure for a "wormery," where the creatures will turn table scraps into a highly enriched organic soil amendment while expanding their population many times over.
Worm castings contain five times the available nitrogen, seven times as much potash and one-and-a-half times more calcium than typical topsoil.
You can buy the product commercially (a little more than $1 per pound for castings and $15 per gallon for worm tea, plus shipping) or do it yourself. All you need is a well-ventilated container and some moistened bedding - usually shredded newspaper, computer paper or corrugated cardboard that can double as food. Add a pound or more of hungry worms (figure as much as $25 per pound, which works out to about 1,000 earthworms) and you're in business.
You can buy the product commercially (a little more than $1 per pound for castings and $15 per gallon for worm tea, plus shipping) or do it yourself. All you need is a well-ventilated container and some moistened bedding - usually shredded newspaper, computer paper or corrugated cardboard that can double as food. Add a pound or more of hungry worms (figure as much as $25 per pound, which works out to about 1,000 earthworms) and you're in business.
"One pound of worms can easily handle 3 pounds of waste per week," Benoy said.
Worm composting can be fun and easy, but it's not simply a matter of digging up a few garden-variety night crawlers from your backyard, she said.
"Night crawlers tend to be solitary and won't reproduce in bins," Benoy said. "Red worms (Wigglers or Eisenia foetida) are hardy, easy to handle and best for composting."
Worm bins can be placed in the home or out, but do best where air can circulate and temperatures are kept between 55 and 75 degrees. The operation is odor-free, but you can raise a stink by overfeeding or adding too much water. Worms like their surroundings about as damp as a squeezed sponge.
"There shouldn't be any smell coming from a worm bin except like from a rich, brown dirt," Benoy said. "The bin has gone anaerobic (without oxygen) if it stinks like rotten eggs. It's not properly draining. There's too much moisture. The bacteria will die."
Castings go farther when brewed up as worm tea. Scoop some into a net bag or pantyhose, drop that into a water-filled container, add a dollop of molasses to nourish the bacteria, and then mix it for a day or so using an inexpensive aquarium air pump.
"Worm tea is the strongest organic fertilizer there is," said Curtis Thomsen, program manager for the Los Angeles County Smart Gardening Program. "It has a ton of good uses, but primarily as fertilizer, herbicide and compost. Worm compost and worm tea are a great one-two punch. They add bacteria to the soil, aid in root development, help get rid of fungus and mildew, enable you to cut back on watering, and get rid of pests like aphids and black flies."
Worm castings and worm tea can increase garden productivity anywhere from 20 percent to 200 percent, Thomsen said. "I've personally seen 12 tomato plants grow to a height of 12 feet and produce 200 pounds of tomatoes per bush," he said.
8 Tips for Time Sequencing Your Garden for Continual Productivity When we dream of gardens, we tend to do so with enduring abundance in mind. We like to think of a summer of tomatoes or months of lettuce. Unfortunately, in our excitement over this prospect, we often forget about the importance of timing. Namely, if we plant everything at once, filling the garden to capacity in one weekend, our harvest won’t be long and continuous but abrupt and far more than we can handle.
Experienced gardeners, though, know that the goal is the end result — the harvest — rather than the sowing. Instead, they plan and plant their veggies with a strong consideration as to when crops will be ready, using mental might before physically getting into the garden. Doing so can result in extended harvests through the season, plentiful picking in the garden and constant variety on the table. And, that’s the dream.
1. Sow in SuccessionFor plants that we know will do well and that we want throughout the season(s), it’s important to sow a small crop every two or three weeks. Then, there will always be something maturing instead of everything maturing at once. Of course, this technique will also require some responsible bookkeeping and devotion.
2. Use SeedlingsSome plants — beans, onions, root veggies — prefer to be sown right in the ground where they will grow, while others — tomatoes, peppers, lettuce — are quite happy to be started in pots and planted as seedlings. Using seedlings means cultivation can begin earlier in the spring, and it also means later that little plants rather than seeds can be waiting to replace expired crops, which will result in a faster turn around of production.
3. Get a Greenhouse or Cold FrameHaving a place that allows cultivating earlier in the spring, later in the fall, and possibly through the winter means that we can grow something to eat throughout the year. Plus, using the greenhouse or cold frame to get plants going before outside temperatures might allow means we can sequence them into the garden for more production.
4. Companion PlantGenerally, companion planting is approached with an eye towards beneficial relationships. For example, carrots repel moths from leeks and leeks deter carrot flies, making them great partners. This can also work on a time level. Radishes mature in about thirty days, while carrots take much longer. The radishes will loosen up the soil for the carrots and be gone in time for the later bloomer to spread out.
5. Plant PerennialsPerennial plants, those that regenerate themselves year after year, tend to work on a different time schedule than annuals. They are great for gardeners because they don’t require cultivation year in and year out, and they are great for cooks because they often stock the cabinets earlier in spring and later in fall than annuals.
6. Grow Crops for Continual HarvestingMany vegetables, such as corn, carrots or cauliflower, grow one-time harvests, which results in the plant dying off, but others — tomatoes, green beans, loose-leaf lettuces, cucumbers, chard — can be harvested time and time again, often only increasing their production as a result. These crops keep the veggie bins full for longer while the others provide exciting influxes of something specific.
7. Always Add Something NewExperimenting is one of the great, exciting parts of gardening. It’s a good idea to keep a bed or two for hodge-podge planting, where an unfamiliar and different variety can be sown each week. This helps with discovering new things to grow en masse, as well as provides diverse flavors to enjoy amongst old standards.
8. Using the MoonThe moon can be a very simple and effective guide. Seeds like to be planted on the waxing moon, when the gravitational force of the moon is pulling things upward, which causes the seed to swell for faster germination. The full moon is well-suited for root vegetables, as it forces moisture back into the soil. The waning moon is the best time to transplant seedlings. Planning the succession of sowing to take advantage of this will have a positive impact.
Overlooked by many beginning gardeners, good timing can make a huge difference as to how a garden grows. Coming up with a thoughtful schedule can be the difference between having lulls in cucumber crops or missing out on an extra harvest of beets. In other words, it’s most definitely worth our time to time our gardens well.
6. Expanding HorizonsGardening is a great way to expand your horizons. Try planning a vegetable you have never tried and see what you think when it is in full growth. Actively meet other gardeners through garden clubs, plant organizations, and gardening websites to swap seeds and get informed. Share the successes and mistakes!
7. Personal TimeGardening provides an outlet for your own personal time. It is not an arbitrary place or date (like: “I should go to the gym sometime”); it is real and in your face. Take the time for yourself to decompress and have a place to go to just let thoughts flow and your mind wander. If the butterflies can do that, so can YOU!
8. Back to Green BasicsWhen you have your hand in the dirt and take a small seed and gently nurture it to grow into food for your family, there is a heightened sense of connection with nature, and the planet. The fact that you are growing a garden is reducing huge carbon footprints, taking the GMO aspect out of the food chain and gives the soil a boost back of nitrogen when the compost is mulched in the fall. It also heightens the appreciation for how precious food really is and brings back an age old art (there are Egyptian tombs with gardening information on them!).
9. Healing HerbsDid you know that there are now Horticultural Healers? Gardens play an important part in our well being and in fact horticulture has been employed as a staple therapy for many centuries. For example, many wounded soldiers, as part of therapy, are instructed to spend time in the garden for healing purposes. The beauty of nature can have an uplifting effect especially when combined with the physical stress release. Gardening has been proven to reduce stress, anger, depression and pain levels and enhance productivity and problem solving skills.
Companion Planting Another thing that good, and smart, gardeners do is plant with purpose. They pair plants that work well together, that can be beneficial to one another. Some plants are particularly well suited to repelling insects, others to fertilizing, others for providing shady respite, or aerating the soil or pulling up nutrients from deep below the earth’s surface. Plants do so much more than just producing food, and it’s wise to take advantage by grouping plants carefully.
1. Carrots and Onions--each acts as a natural pest repellent for the other. Carrot flies hate the smell of onions, and onion flies aren’t into carrots.
2. Tomato and Basil--Basil, a mosquito and bug deterrent, makes a great companion for nearly any plant in the garden, but it is particular good for tomatoes and lettuce. So, come to think of it, planting all three of these together might not be the worst idea, as the tomatoes would shade the lettuce a bit while the lettuce works as a ground cover.
3. Corn, Squash and Beans---Due to Native Americans, this may be the most famous of companion plantings, and it comes in three. Corn, squash and beans work splendidly together. Beans fix the nitrogen in the soil, acting as a sort fertilizer for the other two. Corn provides a living pole for the beans to climb up, and squash (or pumpkins or melons) crawl along the ground covering the soil, which protects it from erosion and drying out when the corn is young. 4. Broccoli and Beets--Broccoli and beets are both great sources of nutrients for our bodies, and in the garden, they work famously together because of nutrients. Broccoli loves calcium in the soil, but beets aren’t too concerned with it. Additionally, both of these guys benefit from a little dill added to the mix, as it will handle the insect situation. Broccoli also gets along with other dark, leafy greens like spinach and Swiss chard.
5. Eggplant, Peas, and Peppers--Who doesn’t love stuffed eggplant? Who doesn’t love stuffed peppers? Well, both could be on the menu. These two work well together because they like the same growing conditions: hot and sunny. Plant them with some bush peas (or beans) to thwart the advances of Colorado potato beetles, which love eggplants. Throw some marigolds, a friend to most plants, in the same bed, and it’ll help with other insects.
6. Mint and Cabbage--Mint can be a quite invasive plant, running shoots all over the place. However, it is remarkably good a repelling pests, including ants, fleas, rodents, aphids and cabbage moths. It also attracts quality predatory insects like bees and hoverflies, as well as earthworms. What’s more is that, while it’s keeping the pests at bay, mint improves the health of cabbage plants. 7. Borage and Strawberries--Sure, this is a veggie patch, but if there’s a chance to grow, and to eat, some strawberries, why pass that up? Borage, for those unfamiliar, is a medicinal herb that is often used to make a tea that has a distinctive calming effect. In the (fruit and) veggie patch, these two team up splendidly. Borage is great for trace minerals and preventing pest problems, and it enhances the yield and flavor of the strawberries.
8. Radish and Cucumber--Radishes are well-respected members of the garden as they are powerful repellents for boring insects, such as squash borers, cucumber beetles and rust beetles. They work very well with cucumbers and the other members of that family (melons, squashes and pumpkins). Radishes could be thrown into the corn, bean and squash trio as a fourth component. Add some nasturtiums to help improve the soil conditions for the radishes, as well as add some spice to those salads.
Milkweed Bombs If you have garden space to plant it, great. You can start with seeds or cut straight to the chase and go with plugs. But those with no dirt of their own can do their part with some handy-dandy guerilla gardening and a handful of seed bombs. Seed bombs (or seed balls if you want to sound less militant) protect the seeds from scavengers and allow planting in hard-to-reach places. Abandoned lots, meadows, sides of the road, stream banks … anywhere there’s soil within the reach of a good toss that could host some milkweed?
Milkweed Seeds by county We encourage you to only plant milkweed species that are native to your area. The Biota of North America Program’s (BONAP) web-based North American Plant Atlas provides county-level distribution information for all Asclepias species in the lower 48 states (milkweeds are not native to Alaska and Hawaii).
Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation Butterflies, dragonflies, beetles, worms, starfish, mussels, and crabs are but a few of the millions of invertebrates at the heart of a healthy environment. Invertebrates build the stunning coral reefs of our oceans; they are essential to the reproduction of most flowering plants, including many fruits, vegetables, and nuts; and they are food for birds, fish, and other animals. Yet invertebrate populations are often imperiled by human activities and rarely accounted for in mainstream conservation.
Over Grow the System Want to multiply the number of plants you can grow in a garden or on a patio or deck? Grow up! Vertical gardening, a technique to cultivate plants up surfaces or supports, is the perfect way to squeeze lots of plants into a small space. Growing up, rather than out, offers countless other benefits beyond higher plant yields.
Vertical Gardening- Save Space by Growing Up [INFO-GRAPHIC] Food Is Free
Recommended Perm. Plants
Trees & Bamboos over 12'
Mimosa Rosea; Persian Silk Tree Albisia julibrussinZones 6 thru 9.
Nitrogen-fixing; hummingbird nectar.
Albizia julibrissin Albizia julibrissin (Persian silk tree, pink silk tree) is a species of tree in the family Fabaceae, native to southwestern and eastern Asia.
The genus is named after the Italian nobleman Filippo degli Albizzi, who introduced it to Europe in the mid-18th century, and it is sometimes incorrectly spelled Albizzia. The specific epithet julibrissin is a corruption of the Persian word gul-i abrisham which means "silk flower."
Seidenbaum (Albizia julibrissin) an der Karlstraße in Hockenheim / Closeup of Albizia julibrissin foliage, flowers and immature fruit
Albizia julibrissin is known by a wide variety of common names, such as Persian silk tree or pink siris. It is also called Lenkoran acacia or bastard tamarind, though it is not too closely related to either genus. The species is usually called "silk tree" or "mimosa" in the United States, which is misleading - the former name can refer to any species of Albizia which is most common in any one locale. And, although once included in Mimosa, neither is it very close to the Mimoseae. To add to the confusion, several species of Acacia, notably Acacia baileyana and Acacia dealbata, are also known as "mimosa" (especially in floristry), and many Fabaceae trees with highly divided leaves are called thus in horticulture.
Its leaves slowly close during the night and during periods of rain, the leaflets bowing downward; thus its modern Persian name shabkhosb means "night sleeper". In Japan its common names are nemunoki, nemurinoki and nenenoki which all mean "sleeping tree". Nemu tree is a partial translation of nemunoki.
There are two varieties:
A. julibrissin var. julibrissin. The typical variety, described above.
A. julibrissin var. mollis. Differs in the shoots being densely hairy.
The seeds are used as a food for livestock and by wildlife, and the sweet-scented flowers are a good nectar source for honeybees and butterflies.
Flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. The fruit is a flat brown pod 10–20 cm (3.9–7.9 in) long and 2–2.5 cm (0.79–0.98 in) broad, containing several seeds inside.
This tree is allelopathic to its neighbors and undergrowth (although Miner's Lettuce seems to thrive in its shadow in cool moist climates). Its seeds are numerous and they are fertile even over long periods of drought. Each pod, which resemble a flattened bean pod made of paper, contains an average of 8 seeds. The pods burst in strong winds, and the seeds carry over surprisingly long distances.
Pawpaw TreePawpaw Asinina [Asminia?] triloba spp. Rappahannock, Shenandoah, et al. Zones 5 thru 9
edible fruit; native
Forum: How much more work is a lawn As an englishman I know how much hard work it is to get a good lawn And how much toxic gick you have to put on it . So any suggestions how to convince my landlord to change to a food Forest... Will it increace the value of the property?
Permaculture on already forested land I'm interested in an establishing a permaculture, perennially/tree based farm on 1-2 acres of an 18 acre lot in South Eastern South Carolina. The land is pretty heavily wooded and I want to focus on maintaining the current system as much as possible while implementing a greater number of productive trees.
Csa = Temporate/mesothermal
Group C: Temperate/mesothermal climates:
Dry-summer or Mediterranean climates (Csa,Csb)
s = dry summer
a = hot summer
These climates usually occur on the western sides of continents between the latitudes of 30° and 45°. These climates are in the polar front region in winter, and thus have moderate temperatures and changeable, rainy weather. Summers are hot and dry, due to the domination of the subtropical high pressure systems, except in the immediate coastal areas, where summers are milder due to the nearby presence of cold ocean currents that may bring fog but prevent rain.
Beirut, Lebanon (Csa)
Video on Global Oneness Project a design system based on nature. The three ethics are:
1. Care of the earth.
2. Care of people.
3. Setting limits to population and consumption. And reinvesting surplus back into the system.
Turn lawn into food on a budget|Meredith Thomas|Central Texas Gardener KLRU--sheet composting & hugelkultur
Okra is good raw in a salad. The leaves are also edible in salads or cooked. Pickled okra is great.
How to Grow a lot of Food in a Small Garden - 9 EZ tips OneYardRevolution | Frugal & Sustainable Organic Gardening
1. Grow in raised beds, not rows.
Ideas from viewers
1) Interplant sweet peas with sunchokes. The sweet peas fix nitrogen, the sunchokes act as trellises for the peas, and both attract beneficial insects.
2) 3 sisters garden
3) Grow dwarf trees and plant shade tolerant crops underneath
4) Grow in window boxes
5) Optimize use of space by growing food you like the most
Amazing EDIBLE GARDEN & TREES Using WOOD CHIPS Egyptian spinach loves the heat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc3_v-qsx4w Ashwagandha
Ashwagandha Annie huge in India.
Top 9 Easy Tips On How To Gardening With WOODCHIPS Morning Gardener's Show
**Permaculture Paradise: Unity Garden Permaculture Garden Delights! Allow all life to flourish. Honor all life. johnny mars
Polyculture: plants help other plants. Permaculture Paradise: Val and Eli's Garden!
Creating your own urban farm is as simple as planting your flowerbeds with edibles. ~Greg Peterson, My Ordinary Extraordinary Yard: The Story of the Urban Farm, 2009, www.urbanfarm.org
Video: My Permaculture Garden - Morag Gamble Australia. lemon myrtle tree, cranberry hibiscus, Society garlic [Tulbaghia violecea]--flowers are eatable. Mustard spinach [Brassica juncea].
Video: GARDEN TOUR: Front Yard Permaculture Garden Never Enough Dirt
Video: GARDEN TOUR: Backyard Garden July 2016 Never Enough Dirt
Video: Establishing a Food Forest the Permaculture Way (2008) NaturesActivist.com
Permaculture Research Insitute articles, forums, global, courses.
*Video: Permaculture Design Intro Geoff Lawton [Australia, his website. Ethics = 1. Earth care: all living things have an intrinsic worth. 2. People care: supply our needs in a sustainable way. 3. Return of surplus; anything which is in surfeit should be returned to the first two [fair share]. Thus an abuntance world. Permaculture leads to absolute abundance.
Sustainability produces more energy than it consumes. Endless resources as long as the sun shines.
Diversity is about interactivity. Our designs focus on thise models. Our teacher is the natural system. Stacking diversity stores and creates a surplus. Stacking through time, through succession, nature's reparative functions. We can stack in space and time: exciting.
We need to design how nature works, but improve on those functions: that's permaculture. Yield, through diversity, is not about trophy hunter mentality, about what's the biggest crop we get, it's not about monoculture.
Geoff Lawton online many permaculture videos handpicked by Geoff
Watercress is among the most highly nutritious vegetables, many of the great herbalists wrote of the revitalizing power of watercress. The health benefits of watercress are attributed to its nutrient content. Watercress is an excellent source of vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, E, manganese, and carotenes.
Victorian watercress garden in Oxfordshire /
It also a good source of calcium, fiber, iron and copper. Watercress livens up raw salad... For optimal health benefits, eat watercress raw and as fresh as possible.
It's got more vitamin C than oranges, more iron than spinach, and more calcium than milk. Enjoying a renaissance as a health food. Requires very fresh water. You can grow it indoors. Use bowl, fill 1/2 with gravel. Buy some watercress with roots and plant. Add mineral water to top of gravel and keep level at top. Keep picking leaves to keep it from flowering as then the leaves will taste bitter. See video for soup recipe.
The watercress tastes sharp and peppery.
Watercress is a powerful cleanser of the body, especially the bloodstream.
Watercress is low in calories and high in potassium which is valued for weight loss, as its diuretic action draws excess fluid down and out of the body.
Watercress helps improve digestion by regulating the flow of bile.
The chlorophyll-rich leaves are chewed to absorb breath odors.
Watercress leaves are used as a poultice for the relief of enlarged prostate gland. The poultice can also treat swollen feet and sprained ankles.
Watercress is a good source of iodine, which is important to the function of the thyroid gland.
Watercress Upland Cress is both delicate and petite geometrically shaped lime green leaves and razor thin stems' featherweight composition is married with flavors full of pepper and spice. Upland Cress becomes more pungent, often acrid and less succulent with maturity. Maturing plants will produce fragrant yellow flowers with the same delicate texture and overt flavors. The entire plant is edible.
Seasons/Availability: Upland watercress is available year-round.
Upland Cress is known as a European green though its parentage can be traced to China. It is a cool season crop that is both cultivated and grows wild and weed-like. It prefers moist sandy clay soils rich in nitrogen and organic matter. Like most greens, Upland Cress prefers full sun to thrive, though the plant will bolt in hot climates.
CONVERT YOUR ECO-UNFRIENDLY SWIMMING POOL INTO A BIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE AND ATTRACTIVE FISH FARM! Swimming pools get a bad rap in enviro-circles, and for good reason. They cost a great deal to construct – using a lot of CO2 intensive materials in the process – they waste huge amounts of water and energy for maintenance, use chemicals to keep them clear and ‘safe’, and they take up a lot of space that could be utilised for more productive purposes (like growing veggies!). Many people also just find them a lot of work to look after, which is especially annoying when their usage is often only seasonal at best.
ADD PHOTOS LATER WHEN PC FIXED
Eating from the pool didn’t seem to be the primary goal for Vanessa and Justin, but rather to create a closed loop biological system that would add beauty and diversity to the rest of their Permaculture system.
How they did it
After draining the pool, they set to cleaning it of contaminants by scrubbing the inside with vinegar and rinsing it clean. This is important or the fish you introduce could die. Before introducing fish, however, plants need to be established, as well as the all-important oxygen-generating algae. Algae forms on its own when allowed, and the best plants to introduce are those you’ll find in natural freshwater environments in your area (lakes, ponds, rivers) as these are best suited for your climate.
Justin and Vanessa even introduced a couple of plants that are regarded as ‘pests’ by many government authorities – like salvinia, a fast spreading floating fern. Rather than a pest, the plant serves a purpose here as chicken feed, and its characteristic of spreading fast just means the chickens have a good supply of it!
Another plant introduced is azola – which is very high in nitrogen due to its special relationship with a nitrogen-fixing cyanobacterium. This makes it an exceptionally good mulch (azolla is said to increase rice yields significantly – "as much as 158 percent per year"). Of course, they also introduced plants that are great for human consumption – like kangkong, water chestnut and watercress.
At the moment the pool is essentially a closed loop biological system. The plants feed off the nutrients supplied by fish and bird droppings, the fish feed off the plants and insect larvae (like dragonflies, etc.), and the algae regulates the CO2/oxygen levels. Zooplankton and mollusks (snails) feed on the algae, the crustaceans (shrimps) feed on the zooplankton, and the fish feed on the mollusks and the crustaceans.
Oh, speaking about snails, if anyone spotted the blue hoses at top and thought I really should have pulled them out before taking any pictures, let it be known that I was going to do just that, but got stopped in my tracks. These hoses also serve a purpose – snails cling to the outside, and also live inside the hose, and it’s from these hoses that the fish like to feed.
As mentioned, algae is very important for the health of the pool – but you can have too much of a good thing. Algae blooms are to be avoided as they can suffocate life in the pool. A balanced algae population can be regulated in three ways: 1) reducing nutrient input (i.e. harvest some fish), 2) reducing light (i.e. add a translucent shade, or a living vine, over part of the pool), or 3) simply scoop some algae out if you get desperate and use it for mulch or compost.
The biggest thing stopping a decent increase in the fish population is oxygen. To regularly eat from the pool, Vanessa and Justin would need to incorporate a water filter/oxygenation system – which is something they’re looking at doing next. As you can see from the pictures, the water in this particular pond is rather ‘natural’. A biological filter would make the water clearer – so, if you wanted, it could still retain the pool’s original purpose (swimming!). Increased oxygenation also tends to keep algae from getting out of hand.
A bio-filter doesn’t need to be too complicated or expensive. Water could be pumped out of the pool and through a gravel trench, and then back into the pool (a solar pump could be utilised). As the water passes through the gravel it gets filtered/cleansed (by the algae that will develop there) and oxygenated. Reeds growing on the gravel aid in making the biological filter itself a closed system.
As well as the general aesthetic and the potential for increased food security and health, pools like these also contribute to the health of the garden in general as they attract a greater diversity of wildlife. Vanessa and Justin now have regular visits from predatory creatures, including white-faced herons and even the australasian bittern, a threatened species.
Essentially, a pool like this is a great example of the very essence of Permaculture – working with natural synergies, and finding ways to make them work for ourselves and the environment. Where modern agribusiness concentrates on chemistry, Permaculturists deal in biology. Instead of reductionist science, which would take just one element and pull it apart to its base chemical ingredients before we look up thinking we understand something, this kind of management takes a broader view.
UTILIZATION OF MACROPHYTE BIOFILTER IN EFFLUENT FROM AQUACULTURE: I. FLOATING PLANT "water hyacinth is one of the many plant species we use as a low impact bio filter. When we harvest it, it makes a fine fungal based compost. We use azola as well."
Permaculture Design Magazine Sunnyvale, CA
Milorganite & Straw Bale Gardening Be sure to purchase straw bales made from alfalfa, wheat, oats, rye or other cereal grain that have less weed seeds than hay. Start a few weeks before the designated planting date.
Place the bales in their permanent location with the cut sides up and twine parallel to the ground.
Hose end timer Orbit 62061N-91213 Single-Dial Water Timer. $18.99 + Free Shipping.
My Permaculture Garden - Morag Gamble winter in the garden
How to Make a Worm Tower: by Morag Gamble add tissues, kitchen waste, shredded newspaper, coffee grounds
9" PCV pipe, 2.5 ft. long. Drill 5mm holes in bottom 2/3 of pipe [will be buried]. Dig holw and bury. Put compost at the base. Add big handfull of composting worms: red worms, tiger worms, blue worms.
Make sure the holes are below the soil. Backfill but don't compress it. Mulch the top of the soil. Put a handful of mulch on top of the worms. It helps to discourage flies and keep a nice stable temperature. Place a plastic pot on top of the pipe upside down to keep animals out and keep too much rain from getting in.
How To Make A DIY Worm Tower GreenShortz DIY. More, bigger holes. Use replair coupling for lid. Add a little grit, sand, on top of worms to help them process.
Graham Ross: Vegie Garden Tips, Ep 16 Fall chores
Backyard Permaculture: Starting at home... Peter Cundall.
The evolution of a backyard food forest - the first three years two great videos.
Video: The Basic Premise Behind Developing A Food Forest Plant Abundance
Video: Companion Planted Food Forest the Permaculture way. Permaculture Homestead. Yarrow is great compost activator. Passion fruit is great in drinks.
Polycultures and Guilds - Episode 1 - Apples -n- more! EdibleAcres. Apple tree guild. Co-planted with garlic to discourage deer. Close by as rhyzome barrier are rhubarb and comfrey around southern edge of bed. Red currents between the rhubarbs. North are an American Persimmon and a deep rooted Pawpaw. Peach tree with pawpaw. Pawpaw and persimmon are back ups if trees don't survive.
How to Make a Temperate Forest Garden : Part 1 PermacultureMedia from Permaculture Magazine from England
How to make a Temperate Forest Garden - Part 2 Phyllostachys is clumping bamboo, edible, very sweet.
Living With The Land | Part 1 | Forest Gardening good intro to forest gardens
beneficial weeds in a young food forest - polyculture! paul wheaton. Tonascet, Washington
mullein: heal the earth with cowboy toilet paper paul wheaton. a dynamic nutrient collector. Deep taproot.
Bumble bees, their colony and nest Dave Kennedy
Mason Bees Micro Documentary paul wheaton
Your Usless Pool into a Beautiful Pond - Part 1 Envirotube - Ku-ring-gai, Australia
Pool to Pond - Part 2 Envirotube
Building a Natural Pond from a Swimming Pool Ep 1 ENVIROTUBE - Australia
Commercial Hvy Construction Conversions:
My from pool to pond transformation Billy Pang.. filled pool with dirt. 180 hrs of work. Waited 6 mos for soil to settle. Then shaped the soil into levels. Put dirt in bags to stabilize. Plastic! Yuch.
All in One! Natural pool, fish pond and veggies mynaturalpool.
Natural Swimming Pools & Ponds: About Rocks and plants help keep water clear. Some interesting info... waterfall has gravel with beneficial bacteria which clean the water, converting waste into food for the plants. Biological filter area of pool
Swimming Pool to Fish Pond Conversion Video #1 Jim Migdoll, Muldoon, Australia [on island of Tasmania]... beginnings. Water is opaque.
Pool to Pond Conversion Video #2 Jim Migdoll, used their existing pool pump. Using fake stream with gravel, rocks, plants to filter water. Uses happenstance supplies he has... good permaculture practice.
Pool to Pond Conversion Video #4 flockulent or barley straw to get rid of cloudiness of water.
Pool to Pond - Part 1 Trey Clanton, SE Texas
Pool to Pond Part 2 Trey Clanton water lilies, snails eat debris, will eat plants if too many
Pool to Pond - Part 3 - A Quick Updare Trey Clanton
Pool to Pond - Spring 2017 First Update Trey Clanton
How to plant water lilies in a deep pond ? guy in a suit?
Adding a water lily to your pond Pond Girl
Hardy Waterlilies more important information pondmegastore.com
The Garden Gurus - To the Rescue: Water Lily Success The Garden Gurus TV
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ How We Went from Desert to Food Forest coldstreamfarm.net source--trees $1.49 good roots, quality. Zone 4 Cold High.
Cold Stream Farm located in Michigan is a wholesale shrub nursery and bare root tree nursery.
Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) - 6-12" $4.39
Back To Eden Food Forest great tour
From Gotham to isolated, code & debt-free West Texas estate S. Brewster county. Really cheap to buy land and live. Did because of debt.
Remember that awesome video showing the first three years of a backyard food forest? Even with the slideshow explaining how Dan from Plant Abundance turned a litter-strewn yard into an urban oasis, I have to admit that a Lazivore like me was still intimidated.
That's why I was delighted to see that Dan just posted a new video explaining the simple principles behind his method of gardening. Here's a summary:
Video screen capture Plant Abundance
1) He doesn't like to be too restrictive: That's why he hesitates to label his work "permaculture", "organic gardening", or "forest gardening", for example—instead taking inspiration from all of these disciplines and more.
2) Layering is central to everything: The most basic premise behind any food forest is the idea that we can maximize our yield if we learn to use all layers of the garden—using the vertical space above and below ground to cram in a much larger harvest than if we only rely on what grows at ground level. By using root crops, ground cover crops, herbaceous plants, shrubs, small trees, canopy trees and vines, Dan is able to more efficiently take advantage of all the space available to him.
3) Symbiosis doesn't necessarily mean self-sustaining: Dan points out that he's growing in a small urban yard, and manages the land accordingly. While a multi-acre food forest might be—by both necessity and design—largely hands off, Dan has to regularly prune back his trees and perform other management in order to maintain an optimal yield. He could let it go and it would probably still thrive, but his yield wouldn't be quite so large nor so diverse.
4) Understanding sunlight is crucial: The downside of layering your plants is that you now have to manage which plants shade what. (This is one of the main concerns folks have about vertical farms too.) So first understanding how sun falls on your property, and then designing your garden with spacing in mind, is critical to success. As Dan showed in his first three years video, though, it's OK for some plants to eventually get shaded out. You just need to plan for that—perhaps planting more annuals in the early years, until your shrubs, small trees and canopies really start to mature.
Obviously, there's more to all this than these four simple principles—and as someone who has dabbled and failed at much of what's here, I am still in awe of what Dan has achieved. but this seems like a useful primer for anyone interested in giving this a go.
Plant Abundance the video
How to Make 7 Productive Layers to Create a Thriving Food Forest Food forests may take a while to develop, but they are certainly worth the effort. Even better, though the systems do take a while to reach maturity, they can be planted to be productive from beginning to end. And, at the end, there should be a stand of permanent food-producing trees, big and small, which are accentuated with other sources of food, beauty, and habitat. This system, like a forest, will take care of itself, all the while yielding delicious harvests. One mistake people make when thinking of food forests is picturing landscapes solely composed of large trees, but in reality, forests aren’t so simple. They are a complex combination of flora and fauna, both above and below the soil surface, that take years to develop. Our food forests need to be the same, but we are stacking these layers of life with species that provide us with food the entire way. In the end, we can use all the different layers to provide a well-balanced diet.
1. Canopy Trees
Canopy trees act as large linchpins to food forests; however, most of them take a long time to grow — sometimes years, sometimes decades — into production. Nonetheless, these trees — apples, pears, chestnuts, cherries, mulberries, pecans — eventually provide us with huge mountains of food. Canopy trees, in a way, are the point of the food forest: We are nursing these trees to maturity so that we can receive their massive yields, and we are designing our forest around them.
2. Understory Trees
Understory trees are often either secondary crop yields to the canopy trees that tend to provide food earlier or support species for the productive plants. This isn’t to say they don’t provide huge amounts of food. A dwarf or semi-dwarf fruit tree produces enough fruit for a small family. The other, highly important trees to include here, are nitrogen-fixing leguminous trees (around 90 percent of the initial forest trees), which can provide food but, more importantly, offer fertilizer and biomass to support the productive species. These will be thinned out as the forest matures.
What is Chop-and-Drop Mulch and Why You Should Use It for Your Garden A chop-and-drop mulch plant is one that produces a lot of biomass, which can be periodically pruned, pulled or coppiced (cutting the plant down to a stump), the organic matter then allowed to fall right to the ground as a layer of mulch. Hence, why it’s called chop-and-drop: we cut the plant and let the trimmings fall seemingly carelessly to the floor.
Any plant can be cut down and allowed to remain felled where it falls, but quality chop-and-drop plants specialize in the practice. Not only do they regenerate, typically quite quickly, even when cut to the nub, but they have more to offer than just any run-of-the-mill rose bush. Their leaves might carry a particular well-stocked cache of trace minerals, or their roots might release fertilizing nitrogen nodules when branches are trimmed.
In essence, chop-and-drop cultivation is the act of growing a plant because it is very good at being cut down and left for the benefit of the other plants
Why You Should Chop-and-Drop
When naturally revitalizing soil, a collection of choice chop-and-drop plants helps to create well-balanced, nutritionally rich earth in which we can easily cultivate other plants. Aside from providing easy-to-reach mulch material, mulching being a must in healthy gardens, typical chop-and-drop plants come with some special characteristics that increase their worth.
Some chop-and-drop species have deep-tapping roots, which drill beyond the reach of other roots, and they can accumulate trace minerals and nutrients from far beneath the surface. These elements build up in the plant, and when it is cut and used as mulch, all of those good things are then available to plants with roots closer to the surface.
A favorite chop-and-drop selection is the perennial, nitrogen-fixing the legume (and a few that aren’t leguminous). Nitrogen-fixing plants harvest their own nitrogen from the air and store it in nodules in their roots. When a plant is pruned above the ground, it mimics the action below the surface. In this case, that results in fertilizing boost both atop the soil from the mulch and below the soil from the roots.
Specific low-lying herbs, grasses, and legumes are also a commonly used option. They are grown thickly and allowed to run wild in a resting bed or a garden to be, and then they are chopped to provide an abundance of mulch matter atop the soil. This is great because the live plants have protected the soil from weather and erosion damage, the roots softened the soil, and now there is an abundance of biomass to feed new plants.
A Few Great Plants for Chop-and-Drop Mulch
Not all plants are up to this task, which is fine, as each species has its own prize and purpose. Tomatoes aren’t great for chop-and-drop mulch, but that’s fine because they provide delicious food for our tables. However, for those looking to get into some chop-and-drop action, here are some favorites of the permaculture community.
Often considered a weed, comfrey produces an abundance of leaves that are crazy packed with good stuff. Identified as a “dynamic accumulator”, it is often put on par with manure for the fertility it provides.
2. Pigeon Pea/Siberian Pea
Two different nitrogen-fixing legumes, pigeon pea is better suited for frost-free climates, and Siberian pea for colder climates. Both provide good biomass for the soil surface and nitrogen boosts from their roots. They are good for harvesting woody material to drop.
3. Red Clover
A widely appreciated “cover crop”, used to keep soil active and away from harsh weather conditions, clover is easy to grow and also fixes nitrogen in soil. When it’s time to make a garden, chop it and drop it for a fertile and refreshed bed.
3. Shrubs and Bushes
Shrubs and Bushes
Woody shrubs and bushes are the next layer in the garden, and again, with smaller plants often comes faster growth. Berries occupy a huge part of this layer, and in temperate climates, ranging from Louisiana to Michigan, there are options. The berry family is vast and varied. These will grow well throughout the forest while the trees are small, and once mature, berries naturally thrive at the edges of forests.
Herbaceous plants are often edible, such as culinary herbs, or medicinal, like comfrey and St. John’s wort. In addition to being productive as food and medicine, this layer is often great for attracting beneficial insects, repelling crop pests, and adding biomass to the forest floor. “Weeds” — comfrey, plantain, burdock, and dandelions — often have deep taproots that mine minerals from far beneath the surface and deposit them on the topsoil when they drop leaves. This is good for the other plants.
Since there are productive trees, there might as well be productive vines growing up them. There are many perennial vines that would enjoy having a home on a food forest, just as less desirable vines, like poison oak, enjoy living in natural forests. Grapes, kiwis, scarlet runner beans, passion fruits, and many other options are there, and vines are a great way of adding an extra layer of production.
Groundcovers are usually herbaceous plants, but in this instance, we are choosing plants that have the tendency to spread out low and cover the soil, acting as a living mulch. Strawberries are a good, fruit-producing choice. Other options include things like crimson clover, which is edible and adds fertility; creeping thyme, which is a culinary herb; and/or sweet woodruff, which clumps rather than spreads and smells great.
Lastly, we shouldn’t forget that there is plenty of action underground, and many of our favorite foods—carrots, potatoes, onions, garlic—come from below the surface. Because food forests tend to lean towards perennial production, including things like groundnuts and Jerusalem artichokes might make for huge added harvests. Harvesting these will also help to naturally turn soils for a bit of oxygenation.
These are the seven classic components of food forests, but they shouldn’t limit the lines of imaginative thought. We haven’t included mushroom production, which is perfect for food forests, in this list. We haven’t thought about all the wild animals we want to be roaming around, adding fertility with their manure, turning soils with their foraging, and spreading seeds for the next incarnation. Ultimately, these forests will have such abundance from so many different sources for such a long time that … well, why wouldn’t we grow them? They are Eden!
LATER: Harvesting Rosella & Sowing Seeds on our Urban Farm Rob Bob's Backyard Farming & Aquaponics. Rosella/sorrel/edible hibiscus.
Roselle [Hibiscus sabdariffa] a species of Hibiscus native to West Africa, used for the production of bast fibre and as an infusion, in which it may be known as carcade. It is an annual or perennial herb or woody-based subshrub, growing to 2–2.5 m (7–8 ft) tall. The leaves are deeply three- to five-lobed, 8–15 cm (3–6 in) long, arranged alternately on the stems. The flowers are 8–10 cm (3–4 in) in diameter, white to pale yellow with a dark red spot at the base of each petal, and have a stout fleshy calyx at the base, 1–2 cm (0.39–0.79 in) wide, enlarging to 3–3.5 cm (1.2–1.4 in), fleshy and bright red as the fruit matures. They take about six months to mature.
Rosella Growing Information Botanical Name:Hibiscus sabdariffa
Common Names: asam balanda, bissap, edible hibiscus, flor de jamaica, grosella, karkade, lumanda, luo shen hua, meshta, omutete, paya, queensland jam plant, rajeab, rosela, roselle, saril, sorrel, susur. Plant Family: Malvaceae.
Planting Depth: Cover seed with 12 mm of fine soil.
Hedge: Rosella is an attractive annual hedge or windbreak for the summer garden.
Available as seed: Rosella
Companion Planted Food Forest the Permaculture way. Permaculture Homestead--later
Companion Planting, 200 best videos Top five companion plants:
1) beans or peas, nitro fixers, in container with chard, lettuce, spinach.
2) Alliums--onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, chives, et al. repel pests with brassicas like cauliflower, broccoli, bok choy, cabbage, also tomatoes, carrots, celery, peppers in containers.
3) Marigolds "the wonderdrug of companion planting" french marigolds in particular produce a pesticide which lasts for years; plant with brassicas and cucurbits like squash, cucumbers, melons; even put in small pot and move around the garden to keep pests at bay.
4) Herbs like basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage; enhance the flavor of tomatoes and repel pests; plant at base of tomato plants.
5) Radishes, plant with plants which will be tall or slow growing like eggplants [slow until summer heat], peppers [same], and good with squash [prevent squash borrers]
Dynamic accumulator= Dynamic accumulators are plants that gather certain micronutrients, macronutrients, or minerals and store them in their leaves. These plants can be used either for detoxifying soil or for gathering a certain nutrient or mineral from an area. For instance, clovers will mine great quantities of nitrogen out of the air via a symbiotic relationship with bacteria. These bacteria convert gaseous nitrogen into a form available to the clover, and exchange this nitrogen for exudates/sugars given by the clover. When the clover dies or is cut down, the green matter breaks down and releases the nitrogen into the soil.
These plants become rich in a certain substance and can then be cut down. This can be used as a fertilizer or as part of a fertilizer mix for other plants that may be deficient in those particular nutrients. The use of a nitrogen dynamic accumulator, such as a clover patch, could potentially replace nitrogen-rich fertilizers. These types of plants play an important role in many permaculture guilds. [Wikipedia]
ComfreyComfrey articles in my vegetable page
Comfrey (also comphrey) is a common name for plants in the genus Symphytum. Comfrey species are important herbs in organic gardening. It is used as a fertilizer and as an herbal medicine. The most commonly used species is Russian comfrey Symphytum ×?uplandicum, which is a cross or hybrid of Symphytum officinale (common comfrey) and Symphytum asperum (rough comfrey).
Russian Comfrey [Symphytum ×?uplandicum]
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale L.) is a perennial herb of the family Boraginaceae with a black, turnip-like root and large, hairy broad leaves that bears small bell-shaped flowers of various colours, typically cream or purplish, which may be striped. It is native to Europe, growing in damp, grassy places, and is locally frequent throughout Ireland and Britain on river banks and ditches. More common is the hybrid between S. officinale and S. asperum, Symphytum ×?uplandicum, known as Russian Comfrey, which is widespread in the British Isles, and which interbreeds with S. officinale. Compared to S. officinale, S. ×?uplandicum is generally more bristly and has flowers which tend to be more blue or violet.
Comfrey has long been recognized by both organic gardeners and herbalists for its great usefulness and versatility; of particular interest is the "Bocking 14" cultivar of Russian Comfrey. This strain was developed during the 1950s by Lawrence D Hills, the founder of the Henry Doubleday Research Association (the organic gardening organisation itself named after the Quaker pioneer who first introduced Russian Comfrey into Britain in the nineteenth century) following trials at Bocking, near Braintree, the original home of the organization.
The comfrey bed should be well prepared by weeding thoroughly, and dressing with manure if available. Offsets should be planted 0.6–1 m (2 ft 0 in–3 ft 3 in) apart with the growing points just below the surface, while root segments should be buried about 5 cm (2.0 in) deep. Keep the bed well watered until the young plants are established. Comfrey should not be harvested in its first season as it needs to become established. Any flowering stems should be removed as these will weaken the plant in its first year.
Comfrey is a fast-growing plant, producing huge amounts of leaf during the growing season, and hence is very nitrogen hungry. Although it is a tenacious grower, it will benefit from the addition of animal manure applied as a mulch, and can also be mulched with other nitrogen rich materials such as lawn clippings, and is one of the few plants that will tolerate the application of fresh urine diluted 50:50 with water, although this should not be regularly added as it may increase salt levels in the soil and have adverse effects on soil life such as worms.
Mature comfrey plants can be harvested up to four or five times a year. They are ready for cutting when about 60 cm (24 in) high, and, depending on seasonal conditions, this is usually in mid-Spring. Comfrey will rapidly regrow, and will be ready for further cutting about 5 weeks later. It is said that the best time to cut comfrey is shortly before flowering, for this is when it is at its most potent in terms of the nutrients that it offers. Comfrey can continue growing into mid-autumn, but it is not advisable to continue taking cuttings after early autumn in order to allow the plants to build up winter reserves. After the growing season, leaving comfrey beds fallow may deliver higher yields in future harvests, as the plant builds up energy reserves in its roots.
Comfrey should be harvested by using either shears, a sickle, or a scythe to cut the plant about 2 inches above the ground, taking care handling it because the leaves and stems are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. It is advisable to wear gloves when handling comfrey. Despite being sterile, Bocking 14 Russian Comfrey will steadily increase in size. It is therefore advisable to split it up every few years.
It is however difficult to remove comfrey once established as it is very deep rooting, and any fragments left in the soil will regrow. Rotovation can be successful, but may take several seasons. The best way to eradicate comfrey is to very carefully dig it out, removing as much of the root as possible. This is best done in hot, dry summer weather, wherein the dry conditions will help to kill off any remaining root stumps.
Comfrey is generally trouble free once established, although weaker or stressed plants can suffer from comfrey rust or mildew. Both are fungal diseases, although they rarely seriously reduce plant growth and thus do not generally require control. However infected plants should not be used for propagation purposes.
Comfrey is a particularly valuable source of fertility to the organic gardener. It is very deep rooted and acts as a dynamic accumulator [plants that gather certain micronutrients, macronutrients, or minerals and store them in their leaves. These plants can be used either for detoxifying soil or for gathering a certain nutrient or mineral from an area. For instance, clovers will mine great quantities of nitrogen out of the air via a symbiotic relationship with bacteria. These bacteria convert gaseous nitrogen into a form available to the clover, and exchange this nitrogen for exudates/sugars given by the clover. When the clover dies or is cut down, the green matter breaks down and releases the nitrogen into the soil.], mining a host of nutrients from the soil. These are then made available through its fast-growing leaves (up to 1.8–2.3 kilograms (4.0–5.1 lb) per plant per cut) which, lacking fibres, quickly break down to a thick black liquid.
There is also no risk of nitrogen robbery when comfrey is dug into the soil as the C:N ratio of the leaves is lower than that of well-rotted compost. Comfrey is an excellent source of potassium, an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seed and fruit production. Its leaves contain 2–3 times more potassium than farmyard manure, mined from deep in the subsoil, tapping into reserves that would not normally be available to plants.
There are various ways in which comfrey can be used as a fertilizer. These include:
--Comfrey as a compost activator – include comfrey in the compost heap to add nitrogen and help to heat the heap. Comfrey should not be added in quantity as it will quickly break down into a dark sludgy liquid that needs to be balanced with more fibrous, carbon-rich material.
--Comfrey liquid fertilizer – can be produced by either rotting leaves down in rainwater for 4–5 weeks to produce a ready-to-use "comfrey tea", or by stacking dry leaves under a weight in a container with a hole in the base. When the leaves decompose a thick black comfrey concentrate is collected. This must be diluted at 15:1 before use.
--Comfrey as a mulch or side dressing – a two-inch layer of comfrey leaves placed around a crop will slowly break down and release plant nutrients; it is especially useful for crops that need extra potassium, such as fruit bearers but also reported to do well for potatoes. Comfrey can be slightly wilted before application optionally but either way, avoid using flowering stems as these can root.
--Comfrey as a companion plant for trees and other perennials – soil tests confirm that soil nutrients increase in the presence of comfrey even when it is not used as mulch, side dressing, or liquid fertilizer, but just allowed to grow.
--Comfrey potting mixture – originally devised to utilize peat, now environmental awareness has led to a leaf mold-based alternative being adopted instead; two-year-old, well decayed leaf mold should be used, this will absorb the nutrient-rich liquid released by the decaying comfrey. In a black plastic sack alternate 7–10 cm (2.8–3.9 in) layers of leaf mold and chopped comfrey leaves. Add a little dolomitic limestone to slightly raise pH. Leave for between 2–5 months depending on the season, checking that it does not dry out or become too wet. The mixture is ready when the comfrey leaves have rotted and are no longer visible. Use as a general potting compost, although it is too strong for seedlings
Contemporary herbalists have a mixed view of comfrey, despite widespread historical use. Its traditional names of knitbone, boneset and the derivation of its Latin name Symphytum (from the Greek symphis, meaning growing together of bones, and phyton, a plant), speak to its longstanding reputation as a therapeutic herb.
Comfrey was historically used to treat a wide variety of ailments ranging from bronchial problems, broken bones, sprains, arthritis, gastric and varicose ulcers, severe burns, acne and other skin conditions. It was reputed to have bone and teeth building properties in children, and have value in treating "many female disorders".
The plant contains the small organic molecule allantoin, which is thought to stimulate cell growth and repair while also depressing inflammation. Constituents of comfrey also include mucilage, steroidal saponins, tannins, pyrrolizidine alkaloids, inulin, and proteins.
In modern herbalism, comfrey is most commonly used topically. Some experts say that comfrey should be restricted to topical use, and should never be ingested, as it contains dangerous amounts of hepatotoxic pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs).
Growing and Using Comfrey Leaves There are many uses for comfrey, but it should not be taken internally because it is toxic to the liver.
In case you're not familiar with comfrey (Symphytum officinale), it's a member of the borage family, a strong-growing perennial with somewhat hairy leaves 12 to 18 inches long, rising on short stems from a central crown. The flower is a pretty blue bell, fading to pink. We don't wait to see the blossoms, however, because the foliage is at its best if cut before blooming time. The plant reaches a height of over two feet and spreads to more than a yard across, but — since comfrey doesn't throw out creeping roots and hardly ever sets seed — it's remarkably non-invasive for such a sturdy being.
Coe's Comfrey Ordered root cutting Receipt number: 1341111933555386 $21 with shipping. 4/5/17
Originating in the Caucasus mountains of Russia, Comfrey can withstand temperatures of -40° F below zero without winter kill. It thrives in Africa in 120° F heat and with 12 cuttings per year there, they hold the world record yield of over 140 tons per acre.
Comfrey can be planted spring, summer or fall, anytime the soil can be worked. In warmer climates, (Deep South and Southwest USA) it can be planted and the leaves harvested throughout the year.
Comfrey grows best in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9. But will grow almost anywhere. Comfrey prefers a sweet soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 and grows best in rich, moist soil in full sun, but will tolerate some shade. It will grow well in clay, light sands or loams — whether in dry or wet areas. Strong growing and deep- rooted, Comfrey adapts well to most any environment.
Because the Bocking #4 is so deep rooted, it will thrive in drought where most other plants are helpless. We do not sell the Bocking #14 strain of Comfrey as “it is shallow rooted and subject to drought,” and “it is disliked by rabbits and chickens — as being too bitter” according to Lawrence D. Hills, the world’s foremost expert on Comfrey.
Plant Comfrey in “fertile holes” to get established and it will thrive and live even through the hottest Summer or coldest Winter. Comfrey needs a 3 foot spacing for proper root development and highest yields. Strong, mature plants on a 3 foot grid will have the larger outside leaves touching the adjacent plants after 4 to 5 weeks growth.
Comfrey can also be grown indoors, in pots (1 to 5 gallon size) for a continuous harvest of fresh, small leaves. For this purpose best results are obtained by planting two-year or 3-to-4-year plants in the larger pots or 5- gallon buckets.
Comfrey roots can grow down 8 to 10 feet and out to a 3-foot radius bringing up minerals and nutrients that have leached down for thousands of years.
For best results: Keep your comfrey plantings CLEAN (free of weeds and grass), CUT (monthly cuts bring on new growth) and FED (use organic fertilizers such as manure).
In Permaculture, comfrey is often left to grow around trees without cutting. The larger outer leaves will lay down forming a nutrient-rich mulch and ground cover. Leaves can also be cut and scattered around the orchard. However to obtain the highest yield as a crop, it should be kept free of competition from grass, weeds, and tree roots. The plants are then cut when at peak growth and manured.
For Best Results — Use “Fertile Holes” This method is to simply dig a hole for each plant on a 3- to 4 foot grid or 2- to 3 feet apart in a row system. Fill the hole half to 2/3 full with aged manure of any kind, add dolomitic limestone powder if your soil is acidic, Comfrey prefers a sweet soil — 6.0 to 7.0 pH. Fill hole to ground level, blend and mix well with a narrow shovel. Soak with water, set a plant or crown cutting to correct depth, then firm the soil. That’s it!
Root Cuttings 10 for $12. Crown cuttings 10 for $25.
Comfrey Common at Growers Exchange Our Price: $7.95 [18.90 with shipping], ZONE: 3 - 9, EXPOSURE: Full Sun, SIZE: 36"H x 15"S, BLOOM: Lavender, Late Spring - Summer, POT SIZE: 1 PINT 28.86 CU IN.
Tips: Comfrey likes a damp, grassy habitat. It is a fast growing plant, producing huge amounts of leaf during the growing season. It thus requires a lot of nitrogen, and will benefit from the addition of lawn clippings and other nitrogen-rich organic fertilizers. Comfrey is covered in small, fiberglass-like hairs and can cause skin irritation and itching. A vigorous self seeder, one plant will give you tons of seeds for planting!
Great Companions... Lavender 'Munstead' $6.95 Chamomile 'Roman' $5.95 Valerian $5.95
Burpee Ordered 3 plants Tomato, Sun Gold Hybrid, 3 plants Tomato, Italian Ice Hybrid Order Number: BP00917871 Order Date: 04/05/2017
7 Ways to Fertilize the Garden with Comfrey 2: Comfrey Manure
Green manure is an alternative to–or supplement to–animal manures as a soil amendment. Green manure plants are simply cut back and turned into the soil. For those on city lots who may not have easy access to livestock manures, green manures are the way to go.
Manure sources are rated for their N-P-K values (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) since they are the primary nutrients plants need for healthy growth.
When comparing comfrey manure (1.8-0.5-5.3) to chicken manure (1.1-0.8-0.5) for example, we can see that they are relatively close in value, with comfrey actually having higher nitrogen and potassium values. By comparison, the value of homemade compost usually falls around 0.5-0.5-0.5, highlighting the fact that the benefit of compost is in its beneficial microbial content and as a soil conditioner, rather than as fertilizer.
When using comfrey as a green manure, add chopped comfrey to garden soil in the fall. Gently mix it into the top layers of the soil using a digging fork. By spring, it will have mostly decomposed and enriched the soil.
Alternatively, comfrey manure can be added in the early spring–at least two weeks before planting. To jumpstart the decomposition of the comfrey manure at this late date, try the quick method explained above under Activate Compost.
Note: Comfrey may not emerge from its winter slumber until late March/early April depending on your location, so there may not be comfrey leaves to chop and spread before the growing season gets underway.
To counteract this potential problem, see the next step!
3: Powdered Comfrey Having dried comfrey on hand is a habit that I have grown accustomed to. I use the dried comfrey leaves to make a healing salve for cuts, scrapes, bites, bruises, sore joints, and all manner of external ailments. Dried and powdered (root or leaf) comfrey can also be used to build and fertilize garden soil. Make your own by air drying comfrey or using a dehydrator at 95 degrees until crisp. Remove the dried leaves from the stems and use a blender or coffee grinder to make a powder. Store in an air-tight container. Simply mix powdered comfrey into the soil with a digging fork, about two weeks before planting. Remember that powdered comfrey is more concentrated than fresh leaves, so a little goes a long way. A sprinkle along each row should be plenty. The benefit of using the powdered comfrey is that it can be used in the late winter/early spring garden before the comfrey plants have woken up and produced leaves. The powder will also decompose more readily than fresh leaves, which is better for the spring garden.
4: Condition Soil Comfrey’s roots reach 6-10 feet deep into the earth, breaking up heavy clay and creating channels for aeration and better water absorption. Over time, its decomposing leaves and roots will fertilize the soil. This dual action of decomposing leaves and roots can help improve marginal land. Since comfrey prefers rich soil, when planting it in poor or damaged soil, give it a head start by adding a shovel of manure or compost.
5: Boost Seedlings Young perennials (fruit trees, berry bushes, asparagus, herbs, etc.) and fruiting vegetable seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, etc.) will enjoy a nutritional jumpstart from comfrey. At the time of planting, bury a few comfrey leaves (not flowering stems) underneath each planting spot. As the comfrey leaves decompose, they will provide essential nutrients and help the young plants grow strong and be pest- and disease-resistant.
6: Liquid Fertilizer Compost tea is an excellent way to provide an immediate nutrient boost to established plants. It is made by steeping fresh plant matter in water for a certain amount of time, straining the liquid, and using it to water stressed plants for a mid-season boost. The extra nitrogen in comfrey compost tea will help overall growth, while the potassium will encourage better flowering and more vigorous growth in perennials and mature fruiting vegetable plants such as tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, cucumbers, etc. Comfrey compost tea is not recommended for young plants. To make a strong comfrey compost tea: Fill any size container halfway with fresh comfrey cuttings. Fill with water, cover, and steep for 3-6 weeks. Warning: This will smell really bad! Strain off the liquid and dilute by half. Or if using a hose end sprayer, no need to pre-dilute. To make a weaker (less smelly) comfrey compost tea: Add one gallon of water for every quart of fresh comfrey cuttings. Let sit for three days, stirring daily, then strain and use full strength. For a quicker comfrey compost tea: Measure one quart of water for every ounce of dried comfrey. Boil the water and pour over the dried comfrey. Let it cool for 5 minutes, then cover and steep for 4 hours. Strain, then dilute with 1 gallon of water unless using the hose end sprayer. Be sure to compost the leftover plant solids.
Comfrey cuttings and compost soil are added to beds in the fall as a green manure soil amendment.--This comfrey was air-dried on the clothesline.
7: Comfrey Mulch Mulching—in general—is a great way to protect soil and prevent erosion. Mulching with comfrey—also called chop-and-drop—will help to retain moisture and protect beneficial soil organisms. Comfrey mulch is a slow-release fertilizer that is best used under perennials and fruiting vegetables. We grow comfrey underneath our cherry trees so that the fruit trees benefit from comfrey fertilizer. Read more about growing comfrey under fruit trees
A Few Great Plants for Chop-and-Drop Mulch
Not all plants are up to this task, which is fine, as each species has its own prize and purpose. Tomatoes aren’t great for chop-and-drop mulch, but that’s fine because they provide delicious food for our tables. However, for those looking to get into some chop-and-drop action, here are some favorites of the permaculture community.
Often considered a weed, comfrey produces an abundance of leaves that are crazy packed with good stuff. Identified as a “dynamic accumulator”, it is often put on par with manure for the fertility it provides.
2. Pigeon Pea/Siberian Pea
Two different nitrogen-fixing legumes, pigeon pea is better suited for frost-free climates, and Siberian pea for colder climates. Both provide good biomass for the soil surface and nitrogen boosts from their roots. They are good for harvesting woody material to drop.
3. Red Clover
A widely appreciated “cover crop”, used to keep soil active and away from harsh weather conditions, clover is easy to grow and also fixes nitrogen in soil. When it’s time to make a garden, chop it and drop it for a fertile and refreshed bed.
Creating a No-Dig GardenHow to Make a No-Dig Garden: Morag Gamble's Method for Simple Abundance - Our Permaculture Life Put newspaper or cardboard under the mulch layer. Weeds in compost defeated by cardboard or newspaper. In hot climates it also acts as an insulator. Also, the compost then adds nutrients to the life of the soil. Quickly improves soil.
Step 1 Open up the soil to allow air and moisture to penetrate down and deal with any compaction. Leave the weeds which add to organic matter. Throw any fresh green stuff on top. Use a fork and just gently open the soil leaning fork about 45 degrees. Don't fork in the pathways. Won't damage the earth worms. Important not to step on it after opening. Adds air and moisture without ruining the soil structure.
Step 2 Add in extra food for the soil organisms. Coffee grounds, tea leaves, worm liquid or castings, comfrey tea plus the sludge, compost, biochar, leaves. Do after watering the site; capillary action helps it get down into the soil. For sandy or clay soil add cocoa peat, cocoanut fiber: adds structure and fiber to the soil. Comfrey greens: just break off and it will grow back in a week. Pigeon pea, cannas, greens available.
Step 3 add compost. About 10 centimeters thick [1/2 inch]. Wet everything down really well.
Step 4 is newspaper to stop weeds. If a slope, start at the top to catch water. Soak the newspaper. About 10 sheets thick. Overlap about 10 centimeters [1/2 inch] in every direction. Keeps soil temp more stable, keeps the moisture in. Water it in to make sure it doesn't suck any moisture from the soil; also check for holes.
Step 5 mulch heavily. Use seed-free hay, sugarcane mulch, straw. Break up and spread 1-2 inches thick at least. If the sun hits the newspaper it will break it down quickly. Wet down so it doesn't blow away if there is wind.
To plant, make a bird's nest down to the newspaper. Consider the newspaper the new topsoil. Use a pointed trowel to make smallest possible hole through the newspaper. Make hole, wiggle around, add handfull of compost. Plant and add another handfull of compost around it. Bring mulch around but not touching it. Firm in. Level to plant: remember your newspaper is the new topsoil. Use seedlings or large seeds.
For seeds, make a line in the mulch and add compost or potting soil and plant the seeds in that. Carrots, beets grow really well in these beds. Check out society garlic. Stems and flowers are edible. Garlic chives. Comfrey; grow it all over the garden: makes tea, compost activater, scatter on new beds, plant around fruit trees to improve the soil.
HedgerowsVideo: How to Plant a Hedgerow how to attract beneficial insects to your organic garden by planting a hedgerow
You need a habitat for beneficial insects. With a hedgerow good bugs will outnumber bad bugs three to one. Favored are buckwheat, carrot, yarrow, clover, alyssum, nasturtium
Wildflower seed mixes are great for hedgerows. Best hedgerows are diverse. Plant in strips or on the border of your garden or orchard. Better in strips than in clumps. Uses Good Bug Blend, mixed with native wildflowers. Prepare soil. Mix seed 1:1 with perlite or vermiculite or course sand. Split in two. Broadcast half. Then make another pass. Tamp down soil or add some compost. Water in.
Good Bug Cover Crop Blends We pioneered these seed mixes to create a beneficial insect habitat. We designed our mix to include plants that are proven hosts to specific wild as well as introduced beneficials, such as predatory mites and wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, syrphids, tachnids, predacious beetles and many more.
Good Bug Blend has been field-proven for over a decade in large and small scale growing areas. Since the mix blooms nearly year round, Good Bug Blend should be planted in areas which can go a little wild, such as field borders, ditchbanks, fence rows, etc.
Blooms begin 45-90 days after planting and will continue for years.
Average height is 18" (but some plants can get as high as 6' depending on soil fertility, available moisture, or competition)
Contains the following seeds: Crimson Clover, Red Clover, Nungarin Subclover, Yellow Sweet Clover, Hykon Rose Clover, White Clover, Semi & Non Dormant Alfalfa, Coriander, Daikon Radish, Dill, Red Radish, Carrot, Calendula, California Buckwheat, Baby's Breath, Sweet Alyssum, White Yarrow, Caraway, Celery, Chervil, Fennel, and Parsley.
I planted this on my side yard and it completely covered the ground with amazingly beautiful plants and flowers that bloomed the entire season and brought lots of honey bees in for the clovers! I have since ordered it in bulk! I highly recommend this as an excellent cover crop for beneficials and beauty!
How to Attract Beneficial Insects with Hedgerows To get proper coverage, divide your seed (no matter how much you’re sowing) into two parts. Mix half the seed with an inert material like vermiculite or sand (not beach sand). You want a one to one ratio: one part seed, one part inert. Using either a rotary spreader or hand broadcasting, cover the whole area.
Then mix the other half the same way and make one more pass. This will ensure you don’t have any bare spots.
Either tamp down the soil with a board or a lawn roller, or just add some compost on top of the seeds to cover them.
Water your seeds and soon you will have a beautiful home for beneficials for seasons to come.
Butterfly Garden Flower Mix 37.99 (lb) Butterfly Garden Wildflower Mix (1/4 lb) $14.99
Ordered 4/15/17 from Peaceful Valley:
Peaceful Valley Good Bug Blend - Nitrocoated (Lb) PBE970 $7.99
SunflowersVideo: How to Grow Organic Sunflowers They are native to the US. They need full sun, adequate moisture and enough space.
Plant once air is warm, 1-3' apart depending on size and 1.5 inch deep. Rotate every three years so disease does not occur.
Protecting crops from birdsProtect tomatoes et al. from birds by wrapping with cheesecloth or mesh bags.
Plant yellow or white tomatoes which birds cannot see as well as the red ones.
Lasagna [no dig] bed prepLasagna Gardening no dig bed prep. also called sheet layering.
Cut veg short. Lay down overlapping newspaper or cardboard. Water down so it doesn't blow away.
Add nitrogen: chicken manure. Or soybean meal, grass clippings, food scraps, coffee grounds, seed-free weeds, comfrey, green trimmings.
Lasagna Gardens & prep
Add carbon materials like pine needles, dried leaves, sawdust, straw, old corn stalks
Add water with each layer.
Alternate nitrogen [green layer] and carbon [brown layer] layers until the bed reaches 18 inches to three feet.
You can add to the bed over time as you get materials. End with a carbon mixture layer so the moisture is kept in and the flies kept out. Water at the very end.
Takes bed 3-6 months, sometimes a year to be ready. It is a slow composting method.
Can also be done in a raised bed.
To plant right away top with 3" of compost on top.
To maintain your bed, keep adding more layers.
Morag VideosUrban Farm interesting plants: turmeric [huge leaves], cassaba root edible or cooked leaves, Monstera or fruit salad plant, cherry guava, curry leaf tree, elderberry, malabar or Ceylon spinach, pigeon pea leaves for mulch and seeds are edible, Canna edulis [edibble] or Queensland arrowroot edible roots to use instead of potatoes looks like banana leaves, Canna indica black seeds leaves for mulch, Pinto peanut for leguminous cover crop around orchard creates dense mat for lots of wildlife and creates microclimate, yam, sugar cane grows really fast for mulch
[copying from e-books: You can highlight a passage, select "highlight" from the pop-up menu, and then go to https://kindle.amazon.com and click on the "Your Highlights" link. Your highlights will be listed there and you can copy and paste from there to wherever you want.]
Gaia's GardenQuotes from Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture by Toby Hemenway. 2nd ed., 2009.
three-quarters of the people on this continent live in metropolitan areas... using our landscapes to reduce our ecological footprint and become more self-reliant, while enhancing habitat for increasingly threatened wildlife.
Natural landscapes seem so rich; they seethe with activity; they hum with life in comparison to our own. Then I encountered a garden that had the vivid aliveness of nature, yet it was packed with fruit and edible greens.
You could think of them as “edible landscaping meets wildlife gardening,” but they are more than that. These are true backyard ecosystems
plea for less consumption and more self-reliance.
Our home landscapes consume immense amounts of resources—far more water, fertilizer, and pesticides per acre than any industrialized farm... our yards, city parks, curbsides, even parking lots and office courtyards could become lush, productive, and attractive landscapes that aid nature while yielding much for us as well, instead of being the grassy voids that they are now... the grassy voids that they are now.
More Americans now live west of the Mississippi than east of it,
I’ve attempted to synthesize these permacultural ideas with ecologists’ growing understanding of what makes nature work.
Permaculture uses a set of principles and practices to design sustainable human settlements. The word, a contraction of both “permanent culture” and “permanent agriculture,” was coined by two Australians, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren. Using what they had observed in nature and in indigenous cultures,
fragmented gardens: an orderly vegetable plot here, flower beds there, and a corner for wildlife or a natural landscape... This book shows how to integrate these isolated and incomplete pieces into a vigorous, thriving backyard ecosystem that benefits both people and wildlife.
Ecological gardens meld the best features of wildlife gardens, edible landscapes, and conventional flower and vegetable gardens, They are more than the sum of their parts. An ecological garden feels like a living being,
dense and encyclopedic bible of the field, Permaculture: A Designer’s Manual by Bill Mollison. [$95 at Amz]
the groundbreaking book Permaculture One by David Holmgren [$189 at Amz].
Permaculture focuses on the careful design of relationships among them—interconnections—interconnections—that will create a healthy, sustainable whole. These relationships are what turn a collection of unrelated parts into a functioning system, whether it’s a backyard, a community, or an ecosystem.
It is a culture that focuses on relationships, It is a linking science. The aim of permaculture is to design ecologically sound, economically prosperous human communities. It is guided by a set of ethics: caring for Earth, caring for people, and reinvesting the surplus that this care will create.
The aim of permaculture is to design ecologically sound, economically prosperous human communities.
1. Observe. Use protracted and thoughtful observation rather than thoughtless action.
2. Connect. Use relative location,.. create useful relationships and time-saving connections. Catch and store energy and materials... Every cycle is an opportunity for yield, every gradient (in slope, charge, temperature, and the like) can produce energy.
3. Choose and place each element in a design to perform as many functions as possible. 4. Each element performs multiple functions. Stack elements in both space and time.
5. Each function is supported by multiple elements. Redundancy protects the whole if one element fails.
6. Make the least change for the greatest effect. find its “leverage points” and intervene there
7. Use small-scale, intensive systems. Grow by “chunking”—that is, developing a small system or arrangement that works well—and repeat it, developing a small system or arrangement that works well
8. Optimize edge. The edge—the intersection of two environments—is the intersection of two environments
9. Collaborate with succession. Living systems usually advance from immaturity to maturity, accept this trend
10. Use biological and renewable resources.
11. Turn problems into solutions. “We are confronted by insurmountable opportunities.”—Attributed to Pogo (Walt Kelly).
12. Get a yield. Design for both immediate and long-term returns
13. Design for both immediate and long-term returns from your efforts
14. The biggest limit to abundance is creativity.
15. Mistakes are tools for learning. Evaluate your trials... learn from them... try to apply them in as many places as you can.
Pay particular attention to situations where the principles aren’t being followed, as those will be the spots that drain the most labor and do the most environmental damage.
That shade tree, for example—can’t it also offer nuts or other food for both people and wildlife and maybe attract pollinators that will later help fruit trees bear more heavily? Plus, the tree’s leaves will build the soil when they fall, and it’s harvesting rainwater and pulling dust out of the air. That tree is already doing about fifteen different jobs... nuts or other food for both people and wildlife and maybe attract pollinators... leaves will build the soil.. harvesting rainwater and pulling dust out of the air.
connectedness goes two ways. each role is supported by many players. redundancy shrinks the risk of failure. So, looking back at that lone shade tree from this perspective, don’t plant just one—plant a cluster of several varieties. If one grows slowly or doesn’t leaf out densely, the others are there to fill in.
food-bearing hedge (sometimes called a fedge)
deep-rooted species, including chicory, yarrow, and daikon radish, which pull nutrients from the subsoil and deposit them on the surface at leaf-fall.
mulch-producing species like comfrey and cardoon, a thick-leaved artichoke relative. I slashed their leaves periodically and left them on the ground to create a mulch layer that holds moisture in the soil.
Nature has a broad back, and with a little ingenuity and a change in viewpoint, a gardener can shift plenty of labor to this willing partner. Nature can be the gardener’s ally.
the vast majority—90 percent or more—of all insects are beneficial or harmless. A diverse and balanced ensemble of insects in the landscape means good pollination and fruit set, and quick, nontoxic control of pest outbreaks, held in check by predaceous bugs. We need insects in the garden. Without them our workload would be crippling—hand-pollinating
nature abhors bare soil, large blocks of a single plant type, and vegetation that’s all the same height and root depth. Nature doesn’t till, either--in the long term, tilling depletes fertility (those revved-up microbes will burn up all the nutrients, then die), causes more disease, and ruins the soil structure, with compaction to hardpan and massive erosion the result is bare soil, a perfect habitat for weed seeds. Weeds are simply pioneer plants, molded by billions of years of evolution to quickly cover disturbed, open ground. Naked earth also washes away with rain,
Weeds are simply pioneer plants, molded by billions of years of evolution to quickly cover disturbed, open ground.
Solid blocks of the same plant variety, though easy to seed and harvest, act as an “all you can eat” sign to insect pests and diseases.
why till and add trainloads of fertilizer, when worms and other soil life, combined with fertility-building plants, will tailor the finest soil possible, with very little work?
In a balanced landscape, diseases and insect problems rarely get out of control.
Natural gardens consist almost exclusively of native plants and are intended to create and restore habitat.
In the United States, all the developed, inhabited land—cities, suburbs, and rural towns, including roads, buildings, yards, and so on—covers only about 6 percent of the nation’s area. You could fill every yard and city park with native plants and not even begin to stanch the loss of native species and habitat.
the real damage to the environment is done not by the cities and suburbs themselves but by meeting their [our] needs. We, who live in the developed 6 percent of the land, have an insatiable appetite and use between 40 and 70 percent of America’s land area (estimates vary depending how “use” is defined) to support us.
Each nonhomegrown meal, each trip to the lumber yard, pharmacy, clothing store, or other shop, commissions the conversion of once-native habitat into an ecological desert.
The lumber for a typical American house of 2,500 square feet scalps roughly three acres of forest into barren clearcut— thus, living in a modest house will aid native species vastly more than will installing a few mountain laurels on a small suburban lot.
A native plant garden, while much easier on the environment than a lawn, does not change the fact that the owner is causing immense habitat loss elsewhere, out of sight. But an ecological garden can change that.
Every bit of food, every scrap of lumber, each medicinal herb or other human product that comes from someone’s yard means that one less chunk of land outside our hometown needs to be denuded of natives and developed for human use.
Cities and suburbs are already out of the natural loop, so we should strive to make them as useful to people and as multifunctional as possible, farms and tree plantations are the lands that could truly become wilderness again.
urban land can be incredibly productive. In Switzerland, for example, 70 percent of all lumber comes from community woodlots. Our cities could provide the materials for many human needs and allow some cropland and tree farms to return to nature.
By gardening ecologically, designing multifunctional landscapes that provide food and other goods for ourselves while creating habitat for other species, Taking care of ourselves in our own yards means that factory farms and forests can shrink.
Calling a species “invasive” is not good science. Following David Jacke in his book, Edible Forest Gardens, I will use the word opportunistic... opportunistic, which more accurately gives the sense that a species needs particular conditions to behave as it does.
Even the words native and exotic have their difficulties, the energy spent on yanking exotics and planting natives is misdirected and futile--European bittersweet, Japanese honeysuckle, Kudzu, Purple loosestrife, Russian olive--these plants are invading disturbed land and disrupted ecosystems, fragmented and degraded by grazing, logging, dams, road building, pollution, and other human activity.
our intervention is the problem. We assume nature is making a mistake when it creates hybrid, fast-healing thickets, so rather than allowing disturbed habitat to stabilize, we keep disturbing it.
Humans create perfect conditions for exotics to thrive... it turns out that the place had first been severely disturbed by development, logging, or other human use.
Opportunistic plants crave disturbance, and they love edges. Those are two things development spawns in huge quantity.
kudzu, Scot’s broom, and Russian olive are nitrogen fixers whose role is to build soil fertility. So they prosper in farmed-out fields and overgrazed rangeland and are nature’s way of rebuilding fertility with what is available.
When humans make a clearing, nature leaps in, working furiously to rebuild an intact humus and fungal layer, harvest energy, and reconstruct all the cycles and connections that have been severed.
You can’t fight nature—nature always bats last—but intact ecosystems are very difficult to invade.
often an opportunistic species is playing an important role, where nature is working on a problem that we may not recognize
purple loosestrife turns out to be superb at both tolerating and cleaning up polluted water. It, like many other opportunistic species, is screaming out to us that there is a problem—contaminated water
A plant will thrive only if conditions are right for it. Modify those conditions— eliminate edge, stop disturbing soil, cast shade with trees, clean up pollution—and that opportunist will almost surely cease to be a problem.
the only common food crops native to North America are sunflowers, hops, squash, and some nuts and berries. Nearly everything we eat originated on other continents.
plant communities, that is, groupings of trees, shrubs, and nonwoody plants that naturally occur together and seem to be connected into a whole. “synthetic” plant communities, which permaculture calls guilds, form healthy, interacting networks that reduce the gardener’s labor, yield abundant gifts for people and wildlife, and help the environment
ditches, called swales save precious rainwater and create sheltered, moist microclimates
The average yard is both an ecological and agricultural desert. The prime offender is short-mown grass, which offers no habitat and nothing for people except a place to sit, yet sucks down far more water and chemicals than a comparable amount of farmland. A tidy layer of bark mulch, instead of more natural and protective ground plants, robs small animals and insects of their homes.
Typical lawns, and vegetable and flower gardens, too, to a great extent, suffer from another ecological fault: they are monocultures.
The immaculate lawn was developed in the mild and evenly moist climate of Great Britain.
beneficial insects, who will shelter in hedges.. The key is providing biodiversity in the landscape. biodiversity means having a semiwild but well-designed palette of useful plants that will attract and sustain the helpful insects, birds, and other animals we need.
plant bee balm, goumi (Elaeagnus multiflora)
landscapes have an irresistible tendency to mature, we can actually accelerate succession, using nature to help a garden mature much faster if we lay the groundwork, nature will create many of the connections and fill in the gaps.
most important to include in the ecological garden: • Deep soil that is rich in nutrients and organic matter • Plants that draw fertility from deep in the earth, from the air, and from rainwater • Many layers of vegetation to create varied niches for other creatures • An emphasis on perennial plants • Mutually helpful relationships among plants, insects, birds, microbes, mammals, and all other inhabitants, including people • Increasingly closed cycles; that is, over time the garden should require fewer supplies from outside, producing most of its own fertilizer, mulch, seeds, new plants, and so on.
if left untended, a garden falls apart, while nature doesn’t.
Soil Building: To create a mature soil quickly, just pile on the organic matter with deep layers of mulch. The complement, bottom-up soil building, is done with plants. with nutrient-accumulating plants in the garden, the task of spreading fertilizer will dwindle to almost nothing.
many annuals can be replaced with perennials. Perennial greens abound: Good King Henry, perennial kale and collards, French sorrel, and many others, all described in Chapter 6. There are perennial onions, root crops, herbs, and, of course, vegetables such as asparagus, artichokes, and rhubarb. And don’t forget the obvious perennial food plants, such as berries, fruits, and nuts.
The advantages of perennials are legion. They eliminate seed starting,
group plants in communities. plant communities is a new field that’s in its infancy.. Permaculture designers have a bit of jargon to describe this. They call it “stacking functions.” If it lacks certain members, the community as a whole suffers.
Stacking functions is a key rule and one of the most important to follow.
The two aspects of function stacking—each element performs multiple functions, and each function is served by multiple elements—can be used throughout the garden, the landscape “learns” as it goes, selecting and improving the patterns that work best.
Most important functions in organisms and ecosystems have backups, often several layers deep. Look at our sense of balance. We use three independent methods to keep our equilibrium. First, our eyes tell us what position we’re in. Second, our ears contain a fluid-filled chamber lined with hairs that are sensitive to orientation. The hairs’ position tells our brain which way is up. And third, our muscles and tendons have receptors that telegraph data on our limb movements and positions. By devoting energy and organs to this “tell me three times” strategy, our bodies make a big investment in not falling over.
Observation is the key to good design. By observing the patterns and cycles that nature uses to solve design problems, we can replicate these forms in our gardens, dynamic solutions that save labor, resources, and energy.
what permaculturists call patterning... Nature’s shapes are rarely rectilinear, and there is good reason for that.
I regard garden paths as a necessary evil. changing the pattern used for garden beds can minimize the land sacrificed to paths. E.G., keyhole bed. if we point the central path toward the south and locate tall plants such as tomatoes or sunflowers at the back, or northern edge, the bed creates a U-shaped sun bowl that traps warmth. The toasty microclimate inside is a good place for tender or heat-loving varieties.
Keyhole beds are round, whereas most yards are square. So what about the margins, those little triangles of unused ground at the corners of these beds—isn’t that wasted space? Not at all. Every garden needs insect-attracting flowers, or perennial nitrogen fixers.. fill the margin with robust mulch-providers
It could be a perfect spot for a small fruit tree.
Keyholes can extend to the left and right of a central walkway.
an herb spiral. a mound of good soil about 3 feet high and 5 feet across. has slopes that face all directions. The sunny, south-facing slope will be hotter than the north. The east-facing side, which gets morning sun, will dry out earlier in the day than the west one. The soil at the bottom will stay wetter than that at the top. We’ve created an herb garden with different microclimates. So we plant accordingly,
Varieties that thrive in hot, dry climates, such as oregano, rosemary, and thyme, go on the sunny south side near the top. Parsley and chives, which prefer cooler, moister climes, find a home on the north side. Coriander, which seems to bolt in too much hot sun, can be stationed on the east side, protected from afternoon scorchings.
Also, include in an herb spiral lettuce and other salad greens, strawberries, flowers, or any other small plant that you use often.
To save on topsoil, place a few rocks, concrete rubble, or a heap of subsoil at the base of the mound, then build over that.
Watercress, water chestnuts, and other edible pond plants
a leaf taught him a novel design for garden paths. “They use the least possible space" “You make a big central path for a cart or wheelbarrow, and smaller ones branching off of it for foot traffic to the beds.
Gardeners often create a net pattern when placing seeds in a raised bed, setting the seeds in a pattern of triangles to create equal distances between each seed. This pattern fits the most seeds into the space available.
In drylands, orchardists plant their trees in a net pattern to collect rain and runoff. Fruit trees are planted in small depressions, and the basins are connected by a network of shallow trenches. By this clever system, rain and runoff water falling over a large area are collected by the trench network and delivered to the base of the trees.
We can use this net pattern in our yards. If our soil is poor and plants are few...
permaculturist Doug Clayton applied the net pattern to his yard. He began with a grid of small fruit trees spaced over his future orchard. Around each sapling, he added manure and wood chip mulch and planted cover crops and perennials, creating a network of mulched circles. Each tree became a small zone of healthy soil and mild microclimate.
“Edge” is a key concept in ecology, so much so that ecologists speak of “the edge effect.” Edges are fascinating and dynamic places, Edges are where things happen. All the species that thrive in each of the two environments are present, plus new species that live in the transition zone between the two. The edge is richer than what lies on either side.
if we want to boost the biodiversity in our yards, we should increase the amount of edge. For a start, this means encouraging plantings of varying heights. A transition between, say, lawn and trees should be gradual, softened with increasingly large perennials and shrubs to increase habitat and variety.
House/yard edge. The outside walls of a house create varied microclimates. The south wall will be hottest and sunniest, so heat-loving and cold-tender plants can go here, often making it possible to grow plants found one or two USDA hardiness zones to the south. [for us, tropical plants like banana trees]
Pavement/soil edge. Paved surfaces collect water, so thirstier plants can be placed alongside sidewalks and driveways to catch runoff. Pavement also stores up heat on sunny days, so the adjacent soil will be warmer.
Fence/yard edge. Fences can also be used as trellises,
Plant/soil edge. To increase the number of plants that can fit into a given space, place them in a wavy pattern rather than a straight line.
Plants at the edge of beds often yield more than the ones in the center, so patterns that increase edge in beds will boost production. Rows of tall plants can be alternated with short ones to achieve the same effect.
Water/soil edge. Varying the depth of the pond (another way to increase edge) will make room for more types of fish and water plants. Frogs and tadpoles can bask in the warm shallows while golden koi flash in the depths.
Don’t forget about extending the edge effect into the third dimension by varying the height and depth of plantings, soil, structures, and ponds.
Remember how self-reliant a natural landscape is. An ecosystem provides for itself. No one brings in truckloads of fertilizer to a forest; no one carries its waste to the dump. The forest takes care of all that internally,
the steps in creating an ecological garden design are:
• Observation. Here we ask, What do we have to work with? What are the conditions and constraints of the site and the client?
A great way to begin the process of getting to know the site is by making a map of it.
Making a map creates more than just a piece of paper. Each time I prepare a map, I become aware of details I would never notice otherwise. Mapmaking puts me in intimate contact with a place.
Observation goes far beyond simply noting the objects on the site. Observation at its best means being immersed in the place.
What creatures live there?
The first step is just to list these observations.
It’s not easy to separate the process of observation from analysis.
“this plant’s leaves are turning yellow” with an analysis: “because it needs more nitrogen.”
Keep track of these observations.
After making the initial observations, do research
A design cannot succeed without a realistic picture of the resources and limitations that constrain it.
I cannot emphasize this strongly enough. Planning what goes where must wait until later.
it helps to have a notebook or tape recorder to preserve our ideas.
As each step is finished, it’s wise to revisit the earlier steps briefly and evaluate them to see if anything needs modification in light of your new knowledge.
For a garden to be considered ecological, the new landscape should:
• Require few outside inputs, especially once it’s mature
questions to ask
What do you and the other human inhabitants want
When noting the items your want in the landscape, describe them in terms of what they do.. begins by ranking your priorities.
determining what goes where:
If plant A needs lots of nitrogen, find a nitrogen-producing species to install alongside it.
Each need not satisfied by another component of the design becomes work for the gardener; each product not used becomes pollution. Do a “needs and yields analysis,”
A trick used by other gardeners is to dig a pond on the sunny side of a greenhouse or group of fruit trees, where the reflected light aids in ripening and heating. Clever connections abound;
Can we use the cuttings to make a woody compost pile (see the discussion of Hugelkultur in Chapter 4)?
the zone-and-sector method.
Any elements of the design that need continual observation, frequent visits, or rigorous techniques
Zones help us organize the elements and the energy flows of our property in the right relationships,
Every property needs a zone 5. It’s the wild land. Whether it’s a corner of an urban lot dedicated to a wildlife thicket and a few rustling birch trees or a nature preserve on the back forty, it is where we are visitors, not managers.
Sector energies such as sun and wind are free energy. Think of this energy as another nutrient source, like free fertilizer or water.
another technique, called random assembly:
Sketch in the various planting beds, trees, walls and fences, patios and decks, and other design elements.
Trees and shrubs should also be planted early in the work, conforming to the old adage, “The best time to plant a tree was ten years ago.”
In the garden, we’re working with live beings, not just shapes and colors. These creatures grow, set seed, and multiply, and in time they die.
A Latin American farmer said “Of course you have terrible soil problems in your country. What do you expect when you call it dirt?”
soil is miraculous. It is where the dead are brought back to life.
In soil, matter crosses and recrosses the boundary between living and dead; and, as we have seen, boundaries— edges—are where the most interesting and important events occur.
soil is alive. One key to having a garden that’s bursting with healthy plants, well-balanced insects, and thriving wildlife is to stuff the soil with as much life as possible.
Diversity builds diversity. the knowledge and techniques for maximizing biodiversity in garden soil
How much life is in the soil? At least as much as above ground.
A teaspoon of good pasture soil may contain a billion bacteria, a million fungi, and ten thousand amoebae.
Above ground, an acre of good pasture may support a horse or two, say about a half-ton of animals. But living in the soil of that acre may be two tons of worms and another two tons of bacteria, fungi, and soil animals such as millipedes and mites.
Vegetarians may be appalled, but much of gardening actually involves raising animals: the tiny ones under Earth’s surface.
a firm specializing in analyzing soil life, calls these swarms of subsurface livestock “microherds,”
From a plant’s perspective, the main role of soil organisms is to break down matter that plants can’t digest themselves and transform it into nutrients that they can readily absorb.
The soil organisms in a properly tended garden will furnish almost all the fertilizer that plants need.
In nature, most fertility comes originally from the rocks. Rocks contain potassium, calcium, phosphorus, and most of the other elements that plants need to build tissue and fuel their metabolic machinery. To convert rocks into food, plant roots and soil organisms secrete mild acids and enzymes that etch atoms of nutrients loose from rock particles. In a sense, plants and soil microbes are miners, sluicing down rocks with caustic substances that carve away precious life-supporting ores.
If we create healthy soil in our gardens, the rampant soil life will coax enough minerals from the rocks for most of our plants’ needs.
1 hectare (2.5 acres)
One dry leaf flutters down..
bacteria that have lain dormant on the leaf surface.
Worms are among the most beneficial of soil animals: They turn over as much as twenty-five tons of soil per acre per year, or the equivalent of one inch of topsoil over Earth’s land surface every ten years.
Meanwhile, on the surface, the feasting invertebrates continue to shred the leaf into tiny bits—or comminute it, in soil-specialist parlance. Comminution exposes more leaf surface—tender inner edges at that—to attack by bacteria and fungi, further hastening decomposition.
the small army of mites, larvae, and other invertebrates feeding on the leaf deposit a fair load of droppings, or frass, which also becomes food for other decomposers
Soil invertebrates such as worms and mites.. their job is principally to pulverize litter.. also mixes the leaf particles with soil,
The real alchemy— the chemical transformation of the leaf into humus and plant food—is done by microorganisms.
a second wave of bacteria, fungi, and other microbes descends on the remains. these microbes snap large molecules into small, edible fragments.
a teaspoon of soil may hold 5,000 species of bacteria, each with a different set of chemical tools. these microbes also build up soil structure. As they feed, certain soil bacteria secrete gums, waxes, and gels that hold tiny particles of earth together.
These miniclumps give microbially rich soil its good “tilth”
Microbes don’t live long—just hours or days.
The leaf’s contents (those that don’t forever recycle in life or dissipate as gases) end up as one of two substances, humus or minerals. Both are critical to healthy plants.
humus, a fairly stable, complex collection of many substances that only slowly undergoes further decomposition.
In a sense, humus is the end of the road for organic matter: By the time our leaf’s remains have reached the humus stage, decomposition has slowed to a snail’s pace. Since organisms can’t easily break down humus, it accumulates in the soil.
Humus is critical to soil health; thus, wise gardeners keep their soil rich in humus.. will absorb four to six times its weight in water.. Humus also swells when it’s wet, aerates the soil.
Where humus really excels is in holding nutrients.
Plant roots, as noted, secrete very mild acids which break the bonds that hold the nutrients onto the humus. The nutrients from humus are washed into the soil moisture, creating a rich soup.
when plants have supped long enough, they stop the flow of acid to avoid depleting the humus.
plants take up only what they need. This turns out to be very little, since plants are 85 percent water, and much of the rest is carbon from the air. A fat half-pound tomato, for example, only draws about 50 milligrams of phosphorus and 500 milligrams of potassium from the soil.
Peat moss isn’t exactly humus—it’s organic matter that’s been arrested on its way to becoming humus because peat bogs lack the oxygen for decomposers to finish the job
Microbes make plant fertilizer right in the soil. This process of stripping the inorganic plant food from organic, carbon-containing compounds and returning it to the soil is called mineralization.
Soil life is much more mobile than plants and has a speedier metabolism. When hungry, microbes can grab nutrients faster than roots.
Gardeners are often admonished not to use wood shavings or straw as a soil amendment because they lead to nitrogen deficiency. This is because shavings and straw, though good sources of carbon, are very low in nitrogen. These nitrogen-poor amendments are fine for use as mulch, on top of the soil, The same lockups occur when other nutrients are lacking in the soil. Until the soil life is properly fed, the plants can’t eat.
Burning carbon out of the soil with chemical fertilizers can actually select for disease organisms. humans must step in with sprays. This becomes a chemical treadmill. It’s a losing battle, reflected in the fact that we use twenty times the pesticides we did fifty years ago, yet crop losses to insects and disease have doubled, according to USDA statistics.
What’s really happening during tilling? By churning the soil, we’re flushing it with fresh air. All that oxygen invigorates the soil life, which zooms into action, breaking down organic matter and plucking minerals from humus and rock particles. Tilling also breaks up the soil, greatly increasing its surface area by creating many small clumps out of big ones. Soil microbes then colonize these fresh surfaces, extracting more nutrients and exploding in population.
This is great for the first season. The blast of nutrients fuels stunning plant growth, and the harvest is bountiful. But the life in tilled soil releases far more nutrients than the plants can use. Unused fertility leaches away in rains.
After a few seasons, the soil is depleted. The humus is gone, the mineral ores are played out, and the artificially stimulated soil life is impoverished. Now the gardener must renew the soil with bales of organic matter, fertilizer, and plenty of work.
tilling releases far more nutrients than plants can use. Also, the constant mechanical battering destroys the soil structure,
We should allow plant roots to do the job. Questing roots will split nuggets of earth in their own time, opening the soil to microbial colonization, loosening nutrients at just the right rate. Once again, nature makes a better partner than a slave.
Building soil. three broad categories: composts, mulches, and cover crops. “black gold,”
All homeowners generate excess organic matter: kitchen scraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, and debris from pruning and cleaning up a yardful of plants.
If you’re not fussy, simply piling this stuff in a corner in your yard and waiting a few months is enough to generate compost.
an overall C:N ratio of 30:1 is ideal. rule of thumb: Green materials, such as grass clippings and fresh plant trimmings (and we’ll also include kitchen waste here), are high in nitrogen. Brown items, such as dried leaves, hay, straw, and wood shavings, are high in carbon. Mixing roughly half green with half brown approximates the ideal 30:1 C:N ratio.
When building the pile, add the materials in layers no more than six inches thick. needs water about as moist as a wrung-out sponge. I usually cover the finished pile with a tarp or permanent lid to retain moisture on sunny days and keep rain from leaching out the hard-won nutrients.
A slowly rotted compost, from my experience, still gets hot enough during that first heating-up to kill weed seeds, but it seems to supply my plants with nutrients longer than the product of rapid turnings.
Sources of high nitrogen: cottonseed meal.
Hugelkultur or mound culture.
pile up branches or brush a foot or two deep in a mound four to eight feet around. Stomp on the pile to compact it a bit.
compost piles aren’t the optimal way to raise your microherds.. bury wood beneath our plants.
I’d like my gardening to be a gentle art. each disruption of the pile is a setback to the soil life. Also, composting can waste nutrients.
I’ve been completely sold on composting in place, commonly known as sheet composting or sheet mulching.
sheet mulching can be done in any season.
Straw, if harvested with a well-tuned combine, contains no seed; it’s just the stems of grain plants. Hay is the whole stalk, seed-head and all.
Robins and towhees, hunting for worms that now were migrating into the straw since the soil was moist right up to the surface.
By composting in place, the soil organisms, so essential for ferrying nutrients to plant roots, aren’t disturbed. An intact subterranean ecology develops, woven by silken fibers of mycelium, riddled with the channels of traveling microfauna, bound into perfect tilth by the gummy exudates and carbon-rich liquors of metabolism. Oxygen-gulping microbes colonize the upper layers of soil, and the shy anaerobes work their complex alchemy further below. Exploding populations of wriggling worms
sheet mulch is forgiving. As long as you put down a weed barrier of paper or cardboard and top it with a foot of moist, decomposable organic matter, you’ll have great soil in short order. And it can be done anywhere: I’ve seen sheet mulch on pavement and on rooftops.
Sheet mulch can be as simple as a layer of newspapers topped by eight to twelve inches of nearly any mulch material.
materials list for the perfect sheet mulch:
1. A two- to three-foot stack of newspaper, or about 300 square feet of corrugated box cardboard without staples or plastic tape. You can also use cloth, old clothing, or wool carpet, provided they contain no synthetic fabric, but these take far longer to decay than paper.
If you can’t find every item, don’t worry. Sheet mulching is very forgiving.
The day before you mulch, water the site well unless the ground is already moist from rain.
After the water has soaked in overnight, slash down any vegetation. Don’t pull up weeds—leave all the native organic matter right there, including the roots.
Next, add any soil amendments.
For alkaline soil, a little gypsum or sulfur will help.
If your native earth is clayey or compacted, now is a good time to open it up a bit. Just push a spading fork into the ground, rock it a little, and pull it out.
Then add a thin layer of high-nitrogen material.
For concentrated matter such as rabbit manure or blood meal, sprinkle down enough material to just cover the soil.. attracts worms and burrowing beetles, which will aerate and loosen the soil.
Lay down newspapers and/or cardboard to create a continuous light-blocking layer that will smother existing plants. Overlap the sheets by six inches or so to keep weeds from sneaking between them. As you spread out the sheets, wet them thoroughly. Soak the sheets several times to make sure the water seeps through. Try not to walk on the paper, especially after it’s wet,
Next, toss down another thin layer of nitrogen-rich manure, meal, or fresh green clippings. This will entice the worms up through the soon-to-be rotting sheets and coax plant roots downward.
On top of this, pour on the bulk mulch, about eight to twelve inches of loose straw, hay, or other substances listed above.
Weed seeds seem to rot rather than germinate in the slowly composting mass.
As you build this layer, spray on water every few inches. This layer should be damp but not wet; you’re looking for that wrung-out sponge state. This can require a surprisingly large volume of water. It may take a couple of minutes of soaking every few inches to achieve the damp-but-not-wet state.
Atop the bulk mulch, add an inch or two of compost. If this is in short supply, add compost plus whatever soil is on hand to reach the final thickness.
if you plan to plant the sheet mulch within a few weeks, a layer of compost will be necessary to act as a seedbed. The final layer is two inches of weed- and seed-free organic matter, such as straw, fine bark, wood shavings, or any of the
others listed above.
drawback to sheet mulch is slugs. In the early phase of decomposition, slug populations can explode. make slug collars from cans (tin or steel, not aluminum)
Sheet mulch, and deep mulching in general, is a fast and easy way to boost organic matter and soil life to prodigious levels. soil life blossoms within days,
A fresh sheet mulch won’t be as productive as one that’s six months old; hence it’s best to prepare it in the fall. These beds seem to reach their prime the second season after construction, a productivity that doesn’t fall off for several years and can be renewed by simply adding more mulch.
If your sheet mulch hasn’t broken down to soil by the time you want to plant, start seeds by making tiny pockets or trenches about three inches deep, filling them with soil or compost, and seeding these
If the plant is deep-rooted, pull the mulch aside, slit the paper or cardboard in an X-pattern, and replace the mulch. Then plant above the slit, and roots will find the opening with no trouble.
beds that are constantly being replanted, such as salad beds, use compost. For main garden beds, I prefer sheet mulch. But for large areas, for long-term fertility, and for shifting the labor to nature’s ample muscles, use cover crops.
Cover crops are planted specifically to build and hold soil and to smother weeds.
The aim is the same: a solid cover of plants. Their leaves shield the soil from hammering rains and carpet the earth in fall with nutritious, humus-building litter. The dense planting crowds and shades out weeds. And their roots drive deep into the soil, loosening the earth, drawing up nutrients, playing host to soil life, and placing organic matter farther down than even the deepest plowing.
Roots are nature’s subterranean humus builders.
roots add organic matter in vast quantities during their constant cycles of growth and decay.
After a heavy rain or deep irrigation, the ground becomes saturated with water, and legions of root hairs die from lack of oxygen. This explains why some plants, such as cucumbers and squash, sometimes wilt after a rain,
builds humus deep in the soil and is one benefit of cover crops that can’t be achieved any other way. Many cover crops send roots ten or fifteen feet deep.
diversity provides the key. It’s best to seed a number of varieties and record which ones thrive. the more species of cover crop we plant, the more varied will be the soil life’s diversity. As we’ve noted, this will subdue disease and boost plant growth.
Masanobu Fukuoka, the brilliant author of The One Straw Revolution, used perennial white clover as a permanent, living mulch in his garden beds. To plant crops, he simply opened up small areas in the clover and placed seeds or transplants in the resulting gaps. This is a great example of stacking functions: The greenery suppresses weeds, the shade holds moisture in the soil, the blossoms attract beneficial insects, and nitrogen fixed by the clover boosts the growth of the other crops.
routinely plant a nitrogen-fixing shrub in the same hole as a fruit tree.
But remember that balance is important. All that nitrogen must be balanced with carbon. Soil organisms consume ten to fifty times more carbon than nitrogen, so farmers always blend a grass or other nonlegume into their cover crops. A cover crop rich in nitrogen will rekindle the soil life’s metabolic fires, burning prodigious amounts of carbon to balance the nitrogenous bounty. A too-rich nitrogen fuel can actually deplete more organic matter than the cover crop adds. For this reason, commercial cover crop mixes contain 10 to 40 percent oats, annual ryegrass, or other nonlegumes.
Some cover crops are great at opening up heavy or compacted soils. Rapeseed and mustard have extensive root systems that punch through hard subsoil, aerating the earth and adding humus as the roots die. [Rapeseed radish does best here in winter; daikon raidish in summer???]
I’ve grown daikon radishes in heavy soil, let them flower, and then snapped them off at ground level.
Chicory, a warm-season perennial, is renowned for its lengthy taproot, which seeks out pockets of potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and other minerals.
Buckwheat converts insoluble phosphorus to a more plant-available form.
dynamic nutrient accumulators.
Another use for cover crops is to attract beneficial insects. The blossoms of buckwheat, mustard, and vetch
I’ve seen old farm texts that list fifteen varieties in their cover crop mixtures, That kind of biodiversity will bring many forms of nature’s energy—soil life, humus, minerals, beneficial insects, and more—to work in your garden.
WaterIn truth, our planet should be called Water, not Earth. About 70 percent of the globe is blanketed by this life-giving liquid, roughly 331 million cubic miles of it.
All but 3 percent of Earth’s water is salty; and, of the remaining dab of fresh water, three-quarters is locked in ice. It gets worse. About half of what’s left, Earth’s unfrozen fresh water, is 2,500 feet or more below ground, embedded in rock.
The accessible fresh water in lakes, rivers, groundwater, and the atmosphere makes up only 0.375 percent—of Earth’s total water.
In an ecologically based design, water isn’t an externally caused event—it is designed in, automatically present, naturally abundant. In the ecological garden, ample water, not drought, is the default condition.
nature holds water in plants, in the air, and in the soil. be less reliant on distant, erratic, and expensive water sources.
The Zemachs’ garden combines five complementary techniques to support the goal of ample water: building organically rich soil, contouring the landscape to catch water and direct it to where it is needed, including drought-tolerant plants when possible, planting densely to shade the soil, and mulching deeply.
Closely spaced plants, stacked in layers, boost the garden’s yields. A drip irrigation system is an unnecessary expense.
one of permaculture’s mantras: The cheapest place to store water is in the soil.
One foot of rich, moist soil blanketing a backyard holds as much water as a three-inch-deep lake the size of the yard.
A swale, laid out on contour so that water doesn’t flow along it but instead percolates into the soil, forming an underground storage reservoir. Swales can be 1 to 3 feet deep and 1 to 4 feet or more across, with a berm downslope roughly the same size, made from the soil from the swale.
The soil acts as a giant sponge. It could hold massive quantities of water and hold it for months. Over the dry summer, this sponge would dribble its water downhill, slowly draining into the Klamath [river]. This explains why our rivers stay full instead of just draining dry after each rain.
what feeds the creeks? There’s no endlessly gushing faucet at the top. Water slowly seeps out of humic earth, drop by drop, the drops coalescing into a trickle, the trickles broadening into creeks.
Rivers come from the soil, guardian of our water. By building our garden’s soil, we can store whole rivers and lakes in our yards.
sculpting the land to hold water. contoured like a dish: The center of the circle is a few inches lower than the edges. It’s a gentle concavity that you can hardly see, but the rain knows it’s there. Rainwater collects in the depression and soaks in, reducing the need for irrigation.
A swale, in this use of the term, is a shallow trench laid out dead level along the land’s contours. It’s sometimes called a bioswale. A swale can be anywhere from one to several feet across, a foot or so deep, and whatever length necessary. A swale is shaped like a long, skinny pond. The earth dug from the swale is piled on the downhill side to make a raised mound or berm,
The stored water creates an underground reservoir that aids plant growth for tens of feet below the swale. The critical point here is for the swale to be truly level so that water will infiltrate evenly and steadily.
dig a rough trench one foot deep and about eighteen inches wide and mound the excavated soil along the downhill edge of the trench.
you can dig pits or other deep spots in the swale above water-loving plants to coax additional water to their roots.
Planting along the berm will make the swale more stable and multifunctional. Most any plant will help, but trees and shrubs are ideal, because their deep roots will hold the berm in place, The shade will also slow evaporation.
Where does runoff accumulate? Often, driveways and sidewalks are sloped or crowned and act as water catchments that direct rain to the adjacent soil. That’s a good location for water-dependent plants.
near downspouts, under unguttered eaves, densely pack and stack plants together to create shade.
Shading soil can reduce evaporation loss by over 60 percent.
Shade: astilbe, monarda, geranium, and others, originated in forests or on shady riverbanks and will flower with a half-day of sun.
covering the soil in a blanket of plants will curtail water loss. A two- to four-inch mulch layer (or more) will squelch moisture loss, keeping plant roots cool
Organic mulches also soak up rain rather than letting it run off. Mulch materials are nearly limitless: straw, alfalfa and other seedless hay, wood shavings, bark, leaves, corncobs, shredded cornstalks, seaweed, husks and hulls, even sand. For acid-loving plants, sawdust or pine needles work well. One warning: Mulched soil won’t warm up in spring as fast as naked earth, so to speed the growth of heat-loving plants, strip the mulch off in spring
five water-holding techniques—rich soil, contouring and swales, the right plants, dense plantings, and mulch
Every home has a handy rainwater collection system built right into it: the roof.
I know people who get most of their irrigation water from just four fifty-five-gallon drums, one at each downspout. These drums are easy to camouflage with plantings and paint.
rainfall in the West is rarely sufficient for gardening. roof or other catchment? Pavement and other hard surfaces can also be called into service.
A rule of thumb is that every 1,000 square feet of roof area will catch about 625 gallons of water per inch of rain.
If the storage can be higher than the garden, gravity, rather than a pump, can power the irrigation system.
Birds, small mammals, and many insects can’t drink from a pond with such a sheer rock edge.
A swale runs alongside the pond. Overflow dribbles out of the pond, down a rock waterfall, and into the swale. The water is captured by the level swale and sinks into the soil. Tom’s vegetable garden is just downhill from the swale, and The pond and swale thus form a subsurface irrigation system for the nearby garden.
The typical American family uses 100 to 200 gallons of water a day in their home
Greywater: sink, shower, and laundry drain, Reusing graywater reduces pollution and the strain on sewage and septic systems. Just as we now separate our compostable garbage and recyclables from landfill-bound trash, it makes sense to split easily reusable, almost-clean graywater from toilet wastes.
For such a system you will have to use biodegradable soaps
Be careful of what you put in a graywater system. Chlorine bleach, detergents containing boron (borax), and some household chemicals and solvents are toxic to plants and should never go in a graywater system. Hydrogen peroxide– based bleaches are safe to use.
Most common detergents will make graywater alkaline, stores sell detergents that are graywater compatible and are labeled as such.
But filtering graywater through a layer of mulch and fertile soil, or a home wetland, is usually enough to restore pH balance.
Never store untreated graywater for more than a day or two. The normally low numbers of bacteria can multiply quickly create unpleasant smells at best and health hazards at worst.
Get raw graywater on the ground quickly.
Although the amount of soaps, food, and other material in graywater may seem trivial, it adds up over time, building biomass, becoming plants and wildlife and food.
I’ve seen graywater systems that have quickly and dramatically boosted the fertility and lushness of a yard. My favorite resource is Create an Oasis with Greywater by Art Ludwig
The simplest possible graywater system— maybe too simple for most people—is a basin in the sink. When it’s full, just empty the basin into a well-mulched garden bed.
So trees are excellent water purifiers, and active ones. A full-grown tree can transpire 2,000 gallons of water on a hot, dry day. But this moisture doesn’t just go away—it soon returns as rain.
Up to half of the rainfall over forested land comes from the trees themselves.
To build sugars and the other carbon-based molecules that provide fuel and structure for the tree, the leaves remove carbon dioxide from the air.
trees help create cooling winds above them.
Plants that are parsimonious with water, XeriscapesBegin by using native plants where you can. your region’s wildlife will appreciate the familiar food and habitat.
A single tree may have ten to thirty acres of leaf surface, all able to draw dust and pollutants from the air. Air passing through the tree is thus purified—and humidified as well.
clouds (half of them created by trees, remember) trees act as cloud seeders to bring rain.
A mature tree can absorb over a quarter inch of rain before any reaches the earth. The leaves and branches act as a funnel, channeling much of the rain to the trunk and toward the root zone of the tree. Soil close to the trunk can receive two to ten times as much rain as that in open ground.
The water falling from the leaves is very different from what fell from the sky. Its passage through the tree transmutes it into a rich soup, laden with the pollen, dust, bird and insect droppings, bacteria and fungi collected by the leaves, and many chemicals and nutrients secreted by the tree.
This nutritious broth both nourishes the soil beneath the tree and inoculates the leaf litter and earth with soil-decomposing organisms. In this way, the tree collects and prepares its own fertilizer solution.
The leafy canopy holds this heat, preventing it from escaping to the night sky. So nighttime temperatures are warmer beneath the tree than in the open.
By harvesting dew and fog, trees can boost available moisture to far beyond what a rain gauge indicates.
At least 50 percent of this tree’s mass is below the ground. The roots can range far beyond the span of the tree’s branches.
trees mine and concentrate the sparse ores that surround them to build fertility and wealth.
This tree’s roots have threaded toward those of nearby oak trees and fused with them.
One of the largest organisms in the world is a forest of aspen trees that is in fact a single individual. beneath the surface, they are all connected via their entwined roots. Each of these aspen trees is genetically identical.
swarms of insects hymenopteran the birds that feed on these bugs.
A tree is a dynamic element embedded in and reacting to an equally dynamic landscape.
Want an insect-attracting, deerproof, and edible flower with medicinal properties? Try bee balm (Monarda didyma).
For a plant that yields salad greens and poultry forage and has roots that break up clay soil and make a coffee substitute when roasted, use chicory (Cichorium intybus).
How about a nitrogen-fixing shrub that is great for erosion control and hedges, with edible berries that are packed with vitamin C? That would be sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides).
Maximilians are one of the few perennial—not annual—sunflowers. They grow five to seven feet tall and sport four-inch yellow blooms in the late fall, giving a fine flash of color when most everything else is spent.
The plants aren’t invasive, but they grow thickly, forming a superb deer barrier. the trimmings, especially when I cut them to the ground in early spring, were copious and created plenty of biomass for mulch or compost. have edible shoots that are delicious raw or cooked.
They are very hardy, to –30 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant is very drought tolerant. It can handle many soil types, the sunflowers’ thick growth stanches the tide of grass
Goumi (Elaeagnus multiflora) is a nonopportunistic relative of Russian olive tasty berries. Red, three-quarter-inch fruits thickly festoon this six-foot-tall shrub in late summer and are good eaten out-of-hand Birds love the berries, Once established, goumi is very drought tolerant, so it’s a good wildlife shrub for the far, unwatered margins of the yard.
Spring finds goumi vibrant with hundreds of fragrant, cream-colored flowers that are adored by bees and other pollinators. these shrubs one of the few N-fixers outside the pea family. can be slashed back heavily to yield mulch.
a vining passionflower, maypop (Passiflora incarnata), Note: Native to texas. fast-growing climber is native to the southeast United States and is hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. a lemony fragrance. The flowers attract bees, butterflies, and admiring humans and develop into an edible fruit about the size of a hen’s egg that tastes a little like apricot.
the young leafy shoots are edible and can be chopped raw into a salad or cooked as a green. can also climb up bare tree trunks or into nonflowering shrubs to provide color with their blossoms.
Spreading can be a problem: The roots can send up new plants fifteen feet away, though usually only a few of them each year. A quintessential permaculture plant, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) Its pink and purple blossoms are certain bait for bees and other beneficial insects, once called knitbone, Poultices of mashed leaves have long been used to heal cuts and scrapes.
a stellar nutrient accumulator, roots and leaves. it’s a vigorous biomass producer, with soft, lush leaves and stems that can be slashed down two to four times each growing season and either composted in place or shuttled to where the fertility and cover are needed.
can be grown as a living mulch. “chop and drop” mulching, which triggers the plant to regrow, converting yet more nutrients from the earth into biomass and then topsoil.
Comfrey’s fat vigorous taproots push far into the soil and can break up hardpans and heavy clays. Chopping off the top-growth causes some root dieback, leaving the roots’ organic matter deep in the soil to decompose and nourish the underground microherds.
it can grow exuberantly from root divisions.one caveat about comfrey: Don’t dig or till close to it. When I wanted to eliminate a plant, sheet mulch did the job.
mashua (Tropaeolum tuberosum) is an edible nasturtium. It’s common knowledge that nasturtium flowers are tasty, but this species also offers edible tubers. the raw tubers have a radish-like pepperiness that disappears on cooking. Baked or roasted, the tubers become sweet and delicious.
The leaves are also edible, having a watercress-like sharpness. Mashua was an Inca staple most famous Inca tuber, the potato One healthy plant can provide eight pounds of tubers, each one, incidentally, packed with vitamin C. contains compounds that repel nematodes, fungal diseases, and some harmful insects.
Interplanting it with other crops such as potatoes, corn, and beans can control pests of those plants. Its cream to orange flowers are also edible.
mashua is a vine, trellising easily up a six-foot fence; thus it makes a fast-growing screen to block unpleasant views or hot sun.
Bamboo is the queen of the useful plants—whole
More than 1,580 human uses for bamboo have been found, including paper, flooring, poles, food, baskets, bridges, fans, fences, hats, acupuncture needles, and xylophones. Thomas Edison used bamboo for the filament of his first successful light bulb.
often called “the brother,” “running” (or monopodial) The roots, like those of other grasses, don’t expand in girth, thus it can be planted over septic drain fields without fear of clogging the pipes. erosion control
shady, sussurating grove. Its leaves remain throughout the year, so it forms a permanent haven and screen. The young white shoots of most varieties are edible and delicious when steamed or sautéed.
plant bamboo next to a pond, compacted path, or gravel driveway. A sidewalk or paved driveway - nonspreading clumping bamboos—called sympodial,
the very best way to contain bamboo is to use it. It is a plant that seems to cherish an active relationship with people, often languishing without human companions. So eat any errant shoots, thin out and use the poles when they are three or four years old, and perhaps with some creativity you can add to the long list of known uses for bamboo.
see plants as active participants in garden ecology.
Mulching is simply composting in place, but it brings other benefits, such as moisture retention, soil cooling, and habitat creation.
Mulch plants should be cut before they go to seed unless you want mulch growing in your beds. Some gardeners interplant mulch makers among their crops and simply chop-and-drop the whole plant to deliver its benefits right in place. If the mulch looks too messy, it can be tucked under a layer of straw or wood shavings.Read more at location 2989 • Delete this highlight Add a note Many shrubs, especially nitrogen fixers such as alder, Elaeagnus, Scotch broom, and ceanothus, break down very quickly. Trimmings from shrubs and trees that have small branches (pencil-thick or thinner) are fine for mulch.Read more at location 2992 • Delete this highlight Add a note A tall pile of brush won’t break down nearly as fast as some stomped-down branches that get ground contact.Read more at location 2994 • Delete this highlight Add a note living mulches. A soft undercover of greenery offers many of the same benefits as dry mulch, plus those of living plantsRead more at location 2996 • Delete this highlight Add a note dwarf yarrow, thrift, Ajuga, wild strawberry,Read more at location 2997 • Delete this highlight Add a note long taprootsRead more at location 2999 • Delete this highlight Add a note yarrow,Read more at location 3002 • Delete this highlight Add a note chamomile, fennel, lamb’s quarters, chicory, dandelion, and plantain. elderberry,Read more at location 3030 • Delete this highlight Add a note marigolds.Read more at location 3030 • Delete this highlight Add a note The wild marigold, Tagetes minuta,Read more at location 3031 • Delete this highlight Add a note Some hybrid marigolds, in fact, stunt the growth of nearby plants and attract pests.Read more at location 3033 • Delete this highlight Add a note InsectaryRead more at location 3034 • Delete this highlight Add a note Plants that attract beneficial insectsRead more at location 3035 • Delete this highlight Add a note insectary plants are yarrow, buckwheat, lavender, golden marguerite, bee balm, and many clovers.Read more at location 3037 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nearly all of the celery or carrot family (the Apiaceae), which includes fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, dill, and coriander, are excellent insectary plants. Other plant families that are loaded with insect-attracting species include the onion or lily family (the Lilaceae), the sunflower or composite family (the Asteraceae), and especially the mint family (the Lamaceae).Read more at location 3038 • Delete this highlight Add a note Maximilian sunflower, secrete mildly toxic compounds that inhibit seed germination and root growth.Read more at location 3046 • Delete this highlight Add a note comfrey, These include daikon (Japanese radish), chicory, comfrey, artichoke, and dandelion. Others, such as mustard, rapeseed, and alfalfa, don’t have a single taproot but insteadRead more at location 3049 • Delete this highlight Add a note thrust a massive, fibrous root system deep into the earth to accomplish the same soil loosening.Read more at location 3050 • Delete this highlight Add a note intercrop them among the beds or under trees to continually break up the soil.Read more at location 3052 • Delete this highlight Add a note After they’ve done their work, these plants can be cut down, shaded out by taller plants, or sheet-mulched.Read more at location 3053 • Delete this highlight Add a note If you choose appropriate plants, rare birds, mammals, and butterflies—not deer and raccoons—will appear.Read more at location 3056 • Delete this highlight Add a note dogwood, elderberry, chokeberry,Read more at location 3057 • Delete this highlight Add a note native roses, hawthorn,Read more at location 3057 • Delete this highlight Add a note U-shaped suntraps for warmth.Read more at location 3061 • Delete this highlight Note: N corner keyhole bed Edit Why make compost when you can have plants that build their own soil? Why weed when a living mulch will smother any unwanted invaders?Read more at location 3082 • Delete this highlight Add a note salad greens are either perennial, French sorrel,Read more at location 3089 • Delete this highlight Add a note Good King Henry,Read more at location 3089 • Delete this highlight Add a note or self-seeding, such as arugula, chard, red mustard, and lettuce.Read more at location 3089 • Delete this highlight Add a note I prefer perennials for ecological reasons, too. Planting annuals every year means disturbing the soil,Read more at location 3091 • Delete this highlight Add a note brings weed seeds to the surface,Read more at location 3092 • Delete this highlight Add a note This uses up nutrients that could otherwise be feeding plants. Plus, the bare soil erodes in the rain and wind.Read more at location 3093 • Delete this highlight Add a note “standing biomass”Read more at location 3097 • Delete this highlight Add a note the part of the plant that’s permanent, such as branches, trunks, and large roots,Read more at location 3098 • Delete this highlight Add a note The biomass is the garden’s essence: Remove it, and everything stops. harvesting annuals is like small-scale clearcut logging).Read more at location 3106 • Delete this highlight Add a note Perennials, with their permanent roots and stems, are a feature of mature ecosystems, annuals of immature ones.Read more at location 3111 • Delete this highlight Add a note Perennials can replace many (though not all) annual plants. Fruit and ornamental trees; bushes for berries, blossoms, and wildlife; shrubs, vines, herbs, edible greens, and flowers—all come in perennial varieties.Read more at location 3111 • Delete this highlight Add a note tough to fill with perennials: vegetables.Read more at location 3113 • Delete this highlight Add a note asparagus, rhubarb, and artichoke.Read more at location 3115 • Delete this highlight Add a note Egyptian or walking onions,Read more at location 3115 • Delete this highlight Add a note A perennial broccoli exists, called Nine-Star,Read more at location 3116 • Delete this highlight Add a note bamboo, with its edible shoots. Scarlet runner beans are perennial in mild climates (USDA Zone 8 and above). Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum)Read more at location 3121 • Delete this highlight Add a note Chinese mountain yam (Dioscorea batatas)Read more at location 3123 • Delete this highlight Add a note Perennial groundcherry (Physalis heterophylla)Read more at location 3124 • Delete this highlight Add a note Groundplum milkvetch (Astragalus crassicarpus)Read more at location 3126 • Delete this highlight Add a note Sea kale (Crambe maritima)Read more at location 3127 • Delete this highlight Add a note Lovage (Levisticum officinale)Read more at location 3128 • Delete this highlight Add a note Mitsuba or Japanese parsley (Crytotaenia japonica)Read more at location 3129 • Delete this highlight Add a note moist, shady spotsRead more at location 3130 • Delete this highlight Add a note Ramps or wild leeks (Allium tricoccum)Read more at location 3131 • Delete this highlight Add a note thrive in shade. Udo (Aralia cordata)Read more at location 3132 • Delete this highlight Add a note partial shade.Read more at location 3133 • Delete this highlight Add a note Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)Read more at location 3134 • Delete this highlight Add a note Chinese water lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) hasRead more at location 3135 • Delete this highlight Add a note chives, fennel, parsley, various mints, and garden cress.Read more at location 3138 • Delete this highlight Add a note oregano, sage, marjoram,Read more at location 3138 • Delete this highlight Add a note dandelion, chicory, pigweed, lamb’s quarters, chickweed, sheep sorrel, and cleavers.Read more at location 3143 • Delete this highlight Add a note white campion and salad burnet reveal alkaline soil.Read more at location 3152 • Delete this highlight Add a note Plantain was named white-man’s foot by Native Americans because its tiny seeds lodged in the wooden soles of early colonials’ boots. As the colonists blundered about the unfamiliar woods, plantain seeds dropped and sprouted, revealing where the EuropeansRead more at location 3160 • Delete this highlight Add a note had walked.Read more at location 3162 • Delete this highlight Add a note Acknowledging the usefulness of weeds can eliminate some of the warlike sentiments that we often bring into the garden. Now I see weeds as my allies, protecting soil that I’ve inadvertently left naked, quietly boosting fertility until I’m ready to plant. And most of them are a source of food,Read more at location 3165 • Delete this highlight Add a note Perennial greens abound. These include French sorrel (Rumex scutatus), Good King Henry (Chenopodium bonus-henricus), dandelion greens (Taraxacum officinale), bush kale (Brassica oleracea ramosa), New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragoniodes), Malabar spinach (Basella rubra), and Turkish rocket (Bunias orientalis).Read more at location 3172 • Delete this highlight Add a note mashua,Read more at location 3180 • Delete this highlight Add a note Oca (Oxalis tuberosa) grows three-inch tubers with a lemony flavor. • Yacon (Polymnia edulis) is a frost-tender plant with large, crisp, and juicy tubers.Read more at location 3181 • Delete this highlight Add a note • Mashua (Tropaeolum tuberosum) is a vining nasturtium with a small, peppery tuber that becomes deliciously sweet on baking.Read more at location 3185 • Delete this highlight Add a note if leeks are allowed to set flowers, many small bulblets will form at the base. If you pull only the main stem and bulb, the bulblets can grow the following season.Read more at location 3187 • Delete this highlight Add a note cutting back broccoli or cauliflower after harvest can keep it growing for several years.Read more at location 3188 • Delete this highlight Add a note reseed naturally. chard,Read more at location 3190 • Delete this highlight Add a note red mustard, corn salad, and lamb’s quarters.Read more at location 3190 • Delete this highlight Add a note A drought-loving rosemary bush that will drown too close to a downspout will perk up in a hot, sunny corner.Read more at location 3195 • Delete this highlight Add a note The right microclimate is crucial to a plant’s survival.Read more at location 3198 • Delete this highlight Add a note In turn, the plants we choose will change the environment around them.Read more at location 3199 • Delete this highlight Add a note The big force that creates most microclimates is heat transfer.Read more at location 3213 • Delete this highlight Add a note When the south wall of your house enters the scene, the picture changes dramatically. Sun heats the ground just as in the open, but now the sunlight also warms the south-facing wall. The wall’s warmth then bouncesRead more at location 3217 • Delete this highlight Add a note onto the ground, warming the earth further. That’s heat transfer. A vertical wall blocks up to two-thirds of heat loss from a nearby “radiant body”—the ground in this case.Read more at location 3220 • Delete this highlight Add a note The wall also alters heat transfer in a third way: It blocks air movement, preventing cool air from mixing with the warm air against the wall.Read more at location 3222 • Delete this highlight Add a note Trees, shrubs, and other vegetation alter the way heat transfer and air mixing occur. A leafy canopy, even that of a good-sized herb, will block sunlight during the day, slowing the warming of the ground beneath it.Read more at location 3231 • Delete this highlight Add a note At night, that canopy prevents the escape of heat from the earth to the sky, so temperatures below any plant won’t fluctuate as much as in open ground.Read more at location 3232 • Delete this highlight Add a note Also, the air belowRead more at location 3233 • Delete this highlight Add a note the greenery is more humid, and moist air uses more energy to heat than dry air. This further reduces temperature swings.Read more at location 3234 • Delete this highlight Add a note in winter, when the sloping rays of the horizon-skimming sun reach under the leaves of, say, an evergreen shrub to warm the soil while at night the leaves block heat loss. Tender perennials can shelter there. Overhanging eaves of a house can have a similar effect, especially on the south and west sides, creating another spot for less hardy or warmth-loving plants. This all means that cold-sensitive plants can survive under canopies and eaves in climates where, in the open, they would be frozen out. Cold air drains downhill, so it’s important not to block its escape routes.Read more at location 3240 • Delete this highlight Add a note Thus, slope can affect microclimate, too. Since cold air sinks, orchardists know that fruit trees on high ground can survive frosts that blacken the blossoms of trees just a few feet lower.Read more at location 3242 • Delete this highlight Add a note A perfect time to locate warm and cool spots is just after a light frost. Watch which places lose the hoary rime of ice the soonest. These may be ideal sites for starting early flowers or cool-weather vegetables.Read more at location 3246 • Delete this highlight Add a note If you have pets, they’ll let you know where the hot spots are.Read more at location 3250 • Delete this highlight Add a note Insects are savvy microclimate users.Read more at location 3253 • Delete this highlight Add a note Color creates microclimates, too. A darkRead more at location 3256 • Delete this highlight Add a note wall absorbs heat, while a light one reflects light.Read more at location 3256 • Delete this highlight Add a note when peaches and grapes were grown against a light-colored wall, the fruit set was heavier and earlier.Read more at location 3257 • Delete this highlight Add a note Light-colored soils heat up slower than dark ones. Soil density matters as well. A dense clay warms far slower than a fluffy, sandy soil. And mulch, with its many insulating air pockets, can keep soil from freezing but retards the warming of soil in spring. Pull mulch aside when spring temperatures rise to speed soil heating.Read more at location 3260 • Delete this highlight Add a note I’ve mentioned the benefits of planting deciduous vines on arbors, trellises, even roofs and walls. Summer temperatures can be lowered substantially this way. Shading a yard works the same way, especially with a high canopy of trees.Read more at location 3266 • Delete this highlight Add a note using plants to modify both soil and microclimate to spur the growth of other flora. Species that do this are called nurse, chaperone, and scaffold plants.Read more at location 3275 • Delete this highlight Add a note creating an ecological garden is a restoration project.Read more at location 3276 • Delete this highlight Add a note Many nitrogen fixers make great nurse plants since their symbiotic microbes force-feed them nutrients, even in poor soils, so they grow quickly (think of the astounding growth of wisteria and alder, both nitrogen fixers).Read more at location 3289 • Delete this highlight Add a note Mesquites are the favorite nest-trees for white-winged doves,Read more at location 3297 • Delete this highlight Add a note chaperones bestow more than just shade. Their roots loosen the soil, build humus, and secrete sugary juices for beneficial microbes; the leaf litter creates mulch and keeps soil moist; and the leafy canopy slows evaporation and forms a microclimate that damps temperature swings and holds humidity. nurse plants is as scaffolds.Read more at location 3309 • Delete this highlight Add a note Other uses of scaffold plants are to hold soil in place on eroding hills and gullies, to stabilize and catch windblown soil, and to create thorny or dense fencing that protects young plants from deer and other animals.Read more at location 3317 • Delete this highlight Add a note The denser shade and tasty fruit makes hackberries a favored bird hangout.Read more at location 3325 • Delete this highlight Add a note imported via squirrel fur and bird poop.Read more at location 3331 • Delete this highlight Add a note In ecological gardening at its best, that’s all the work that’s necessary: putting things in the right relationship. Nature will do the rest.Read more at location 3361 • Delete this highlight Add a note animals can be one of the gardener’s most powerful allies. In the wrong place, an animal can wreak havoc, but when the garden’s elements are in clever relationships, animals will eliminate a lot of labor for the gardener.Read more at location 3362 • Delete this highlight Add a note By attracting birds, small animals, and insects to our yards, we not only increase biodiversity but make our gardens more balanced, disease free, and productive as well.Read more at location 3367 • Delete this highlight Add a note The principal producers are plants, which turn sunlight into leafy and woody tissue. The decomposers, as we have seen, live mostly in the soil, working their alchemy to transform organic matter into a new and useful state. The consumers are primarily animal: humans and other mammals, insects, birds, and all the rest.Read more at location 3371 • Delete this highlight Add a note It’s too easy to notice the bug-ravaged leaves of broccoli and ignore the benefits of pollination and the role of pest-killing predator insects. Yet most insects are either helpful or neutral. Only a minority harm plants. Without insects, there would be very little for us to eat, no compost or topsoil, few birds, fewer mammals— they’re an essential, major thread in the web of life.Read more at location 3389 • Delete this highlight Add a note Fourteen percent of all crops are lost to insects and disease,Read more at location 3394 • Delete this highlight Add a note fifty years ago crop loss was only 7 percent.Read more at location 3395 • Delete this highlight Add a note factorsRead more at location 3396 • Delete this highlight Add a note loss of soil fertility.Read more at location 3396 • Delete this highlight Add a note the death of the beneficial insectsRead more at location 3397 • Delete this highlight Add a note fencerow-to-fencerow “clean” cultivation and heavy and ill-timed pesticide use.Read more at location 3398 • Delete this highlight Add a note multispecies hedgerows and left wild vegetation along creeks and back pastures. the advent of herbicides and high-powered tractors and the incentive to squeeze every dollar from farmland destroyed the good bugs’ habitat.Read more at location 3403 • Delete this highlight Add a note the wild places,Read more at location 3405 • Delete this highlight Add a note were disdained as unproductive and as wellsprings of weed seed, pests, and disease.Read more at location 3405 • Delete this highlight Add a note The second of the one-two punches that knocked out beneficial insects was widespread insecticide use.Read more at location 3407 • Delete this highlight Add a note Insects that feed on plants reproduce at staggering rates, quickly surging to astronomical numbers. But the insects that preyRead more at location 3408 • Delete this highlight Add a note on these pests reproduce more slowly and are far fewer in number.Read more at location 3409 • Delete this highlight Add a note Predators always occur in much smaller numbers than their prey. This makes them vulnerable to extinction when prey declines.Read more at location 3412 • Delete this highlight Add a note aphids can reach pestilential proportions in a week or two (frighteningly, aphids can give birth to already pregnant young). sprays insecticide. This kills lots of aphids—and most lady beetles. The fast-breeding aphids recover within a few days, but the lady beetles remain at critically low numbersRead more at location 3421 • Delete this highlight Add a note four types of beneficial insects: predators, parasitic insects (or parasitoids), pollinators, and weed feeders.Read more at location 3427 • Delete this highlight Add a note beetles, true bugs, flies, wasps and their relatives,Read more at location 3431 • Delete this highlight Add a note many eat anything that comes their way, whether helpful or harmful.Read more at location 3434 • Delete this highlight Add a note spidersRead more at location 3436 • Delete this highlight Add a note they are superb pest predators. They shelter in dried grass and mulch, which provide the high humidity and refuge from temperature changes that they prefer. A cleanly cultivated garden is poor habitat for them:Read more at location 3436 • Delete this highlight Add a note small wasps and flies that lay their eggs inside other insects or insect eggs.Read more at location 3440 • Delete this highlight Add a note I have heard that the makers of the film Alien got their inspiration from parasitic wasps. Parasitoids are often specialists,Read more at location 3447 • Delete this highlight Add a note rarely harm helpful insects.Read more at location 3448 • Delete this highlight Add a note corn, grapes, and a handful of other wind-pollinated plants. FlowerbedsRead more at location 3455 • Delete this highlight Add a note end of the dinosaur age.Read more at location 3456 • Delete this highlight Add a note insects learned that protein-rich pollen was excellentRead more at location 3456 • Delete this highlight Add a note in some cases, the ability to buzz loudly at just the right frequency to send pollen boiling out of the blooms.Read more at location 3460 • Delete this highlight Add a note Predatory beetlesRead more at location 3465 • Delete this highlight Add a note ladybugRead more at location 3465 • Delete this highlight Add a note overwinter in leaf litter, under rocks,Read more at location 3466 • Delete this highlight Add a note consume fifty to five hundred aphids each day. green-or blue-winged beauties known as ground beetles,Read more at location 3468 • Delete this highlight Add a note rove beetles,Read more at location 3469 • Delete this highlight Add a note LacewingsRead more at location 3470 • Delete this highlight Add a note Predatory waspsRead more at location 3474 • Delete this highlight Add a note yellow jackets and paper waspsRead more at location 3474 • Delete this highlight Add a note Solitary wasps, such as digger wasps,Read more at location 3475 • Delete this highlight Add a note All these wasps rely on pollen and nectar as adults. Plants with tiny flowers, including fennel, angelica, coriander, dill, and Queen Anne’s lace, provide their favorite food.Read more at location 3483 • Delete this highlight Add a note Syrphid flies,Read more at location 3485 • Delete this highlight Add a note many of them look like bees. Tachinid flies alsoRead more at location 3489 • Delete this highlight Add a note like houseflies.Read more at location 3489 • Delete this highlight Add a note pirate bugsRead more at location 3493 • Delete this highlight Add a note about 1.8-inch long, black with white wing patches.Read more at location 3493 • Delete this highlight Add a note particularly like elderberry, mountain ash, hairy vetch, and wild and domestic buckwheat.Read more at location 3496 • Delete this highlight Add a note Big-eyed bugs are about -inch long and silver-gray, resembling tiny cicadas with bulging eyes.Read more at location 3496 • Delete this highlight Add a note planting sunflowers boosts their numbers.Read more at location 3499 • Delete this highlight Add a note honeybee.Read more at location 3501 • Delete this highlight Add a note aren’t as tough as wild bees. Some insects specifically eat unwanted plants.Read more at location 3513 • Delete this highlight Add a note Without a reliable supply of prey, predators and parasitoids won’t stay around. This is another benefit of hedgerows or weedy spots,Read more at location 3528 • Delete this highlight Add a note shelter,Read more at location 3536 • Delete this highlight Add a note includes dense foliage, mulch, dead brush and leaves, and rock piles and walls. Shrubs, hedges, and thick perennial beds are ideal.Read more at location 3536 • Delete this highlight Add a note Drinking waterRead more at location 3539 • Delete this highlight Add a note Grow many species of flowers so that several types are always in bloom.Read more at location 3543 • Delete this highlight Add a note Multispecies hedgerows, wild and weedy spots, mixed and perennial borders, and flowers sprinkled in vegetable beds all provide habitat.Read more at location 3544 • Delete this highlight Add a note Sunflowers are native to North America, and over 150 species of insects, including weevils, beetles, and caterpillars, feed on their foliage, roots, flowers, and seeds. Each year, I add more useful flowers, and I’m astounded at the almost exponential increase in insect life.Read more at location 3564 • Delete this highlight Add a note Birds can decimate a berry crop, peck holes in fruit, and scratch up small seedlings. Often these problems arise because good bird habitat is lacking, and the birds are reduced to making do with what’s available (in other words, your plants).Read more at location 3572 • Delete this highlight Add a note Individual bird droppings mayRead more at location 3575 • Delete this highlight Add a note not amount to much, but when a gardener concentrates manure by hanging a feeder or by some other tactic, plenty of fertilizer can accumulate.Read more at location 3576 • Delete this highlight Add a note take dust baths in dry soil to subdue mites and other parasites. Birds also eat grit to aid digestion.Read more at location 3582 • Delete this highlight Add a note insect-eating birds have long, slender beaks to pluck insects from foliage, while the bills of seed-eaters are short and thick to crack tough seeds.Read more at location 3587 • Delete this highlight Add a note Researchers found that when they provided perches in a field, the number and variety of seeds brought by birds skyrocketed. If in our landscapes we offer birds a few shrubs for perching, they’ll introduce many new plant varieties on their own.Read more at location 3597 • Delete this highlight Add a note even hummingbirds get over half their nutrition from insects. Wide, dense plants are useful since lots of birds prefer to nest deep inside a broad hedge or bush.Read more at location 3633 • Delete this highlight Add a note Evergreens.Read more at location 3639 • Delete this highlight Add a note bamboo,Read more at location 3640 • Delete this highlight Add a note Grasses, flowers, and herbs. TallRead more at location 3641 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nectar-producing plants.Read more at location 3643 • Delete this highlight Add a note Summer-fruiting plants. PlantsRead more at location 3646 • Delete this highlight Add a note mulberry,Read more at location 3647 • Delete this highlight Add a note elderberry,Read more at location 3648 • Delete this highlight Add a note Fall-fruiting plants.Read more at location 3648 • Delete this highlight Add a note Winter-fruiting plants. sumac,Read more at location 3652 • Delete this highlight Add a note crabapple,Read more at location 3653 • Delete this highlight Add a note chinaberry.Read more at location 3653 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nut and acorn plants.Read more at location 3654 • Delete this highlight Add a note oaks,Read more at location 3654 • Delete this highlight Add a note small livestock.Read more at location 3661 • Delete this highlight Add a note chickensRead more at location 3661 • Delete this highlight Add a note rabbitRead more at location 3661 • Delete this highlight Add a note pigeons Small animals suited for the backyard are legion and include chickens, turkeys, pigeons, doves, ducks, quail, and peafowl, as well as rabbits, guinea pigs, and pot-bellied minipigs. (Geese and guinea fowl, though also small animals, are a little too noisy for the city or suburbs.) Occasionally I’ve spotted pygmy goats in suburban yards.Read more at location 3671 • Delete this highlight Add a note We raise dogs and cats with nary a second thought, yet they require expensive feed and intense care, their excrement is extremely noxious, they destroy property, and barking dogs and love-smitten cats are every bit as noisy as roosters.Read more at location 3683 • Delete this highlight Add a note rather than allowing the critters to wander and wreak havoc in freshly seeded beds.Read more at location 3693 • Delete this highlight Add a note Chickens can also graze free-range in the garden, where they will glean insects, slugs,Read more at location 3727 • Delete this highlight Add a note and weed seeds, but it’s best to keep an eye on them in case they find a crop they really like, such as berries or tomatoes. Wait until garden plants are mature before letting the chickens into the garden, as poultry will happily eat tender seedlings. If you allow the birds into the garden in the late afternoon, they won’t be there long enough to do any damage and will naturally return to their coop or tractor at dusk, sparing you the trouble of a lengthy chicken chase.Read more at location 3728 • Delete this highlight Add a note ducksRead more at location 3740 • Delete this highlight Add a note Ducks are gentler on plants than chickens and don’t scratch much, thus they don’t need close supervision in the garden.Read more at location 3745 • Delete this highlight Add a note the rabbit.Read more at location 3748 • Delete this highlight Add a note worm bins can also process kitchen scraps. Worm bins are a first-rate composting system that can be used indoors. The virtually odorlessRead more at location 3765 • Delete this highlight Add a note interplanting,Read more at location 3800 • Delete this highlight Add a note avoid solid clumps of one vegetable.Read more at location 3801 • Delete this highlight Add a note garden plant communitiesRead more at location 3803 • Delete this highlight Add a note onions, carrots, and lettuce in the same garden bed.Read more at location 3804 • Delete this highlight Add a note lettuce needs less sun than onions and carrots, so the slight shade cast by the latter two won’t impede lettuce’s growth. In summer, lettuce tends to bolt and taste bitter unless shaded, which is a good reason to grow it beside taller plants.Read more at location 3808 • Delete this highlight Add a note the roots of these three plants don’t compete for space:Read more at location 3810 • Delete this highlight Add a note Interplanting Brussels sprouts, parsley, spinach, and onions is effective because the spinach and onions are ready before the sprouts mature, and the parsley can tolerate some shade.Read more at location 3812 • Delete this highlight Add a note Radishes, lettuce, and peppers work wellRead more at location 3814 • Delete this highlight Add a note This form of interplanting doesn’t blend plants into dynamic, interactive associations the way nature does. What’s more, interplanting rarely capitalizes on the mutual benefits plants can provide each other,Read more at location 3817 • Delete this highlight Add a note A second technique, companion planting,Read more at location 3821 • Delete this highlight Add a note sage near carrotsRead more at location 3822 • Delete this highlight Add a note CarrotsRead more at location 3822 • Delete this highlight Add a note stimulates the growth of peas.Read more at location 3823 • Delete this highlight Add a note Mexican marigolds (Tagetes minuta) can repel harmful soil nematodes. However, other varieties of marigold actually attract pests,Read more at location 3827 • Delete this highlight Add a note Interplanting combines crops that minimize competition for sun and nutrients. Companion planting blends varieties that enhance each other. Natural plant communities, tuned by billions of years of evolution, do both. Why not emulate these plant communities in our gardens?Read more at location 3834 • Delete this highlight Add a note As microclimates multiply, favorable conditions evolve for yet more species. Niches abound, and new varieties will move into these niches, attracting more insects, more birds, more life. The typical vegetable garden, however, has only one niche: loamy soil, at neutral pH, in full sun.Read more at location 3847 • Delete this highlight Add a note reduces a diverse ecology to an impoverished uniformity.Read more at location 3848 • Delete this highlight Add a note Sentencing our garden plants to a single uniform habitat erodes the broad potential available to us.Read more at location 3850 • Delete this highlight Add a note Two weeks before the last frost: Indoors, start about five cabbage plantsRead more at location 3853 • Delete this highlight Add a note The cabbages should be ready for transplanting a month or so afterRead more at location 3854 • Delete this highlight Add a note the seed mixture below is sown. To extend the season, choose both early- and fall-maturing cabbages.Read more at location 3854 • Delete this highlight Add a note Week One (at the last frost date in your region): In early spring, sow seeds of radish, dill, parsnip, calendula, and lettuce.Read more at location 3856 • Delete this highlight Add a note heat-tolerant varieties such as Summertime or Optima will stretch the lettuce season into summer.Read more at location 3857 • Delete this highlight Add a note Broadcast all the seeds over the same area to create a mixed planting.Read more at location 3858 • Delete this highlight Add a note cover the seed with about a quarter-inch of compost and water gently.Read more at location 3861 • Delete this highlight Add a note Week Four: Some of the radishes should beRead more at location 3862 • Delete this highlight Add a note ready to pluck. In a few of the gaps left by the radishes, plant cabbage seedlings about eighteen inches apart. • Week Six: The young lettuce will be big enough to harvest. The dense sowing of lettuce will yield a flavorful mesclun blend when the plants are young. Pick the whole plant to make space for the rest to grow. With continued thinning, the remaining lettuce will grow up full sized.Read more at location 3862 • Delete this highlight Add a note plant bush beans in the spaces left by the lettuce. If more openings develop in early summer, sow buckwheat and begin thinning their edible greens shortly after they appear.Read more at location 3866 • Delete this highlight Add a note mild-winter gardenersRead more at location 3870 • Delete this highlight Add a note poke garlic cloves into the openings, to be harvested the following spring.Read more at location 3870 • Delete this highlight Add a note Our plants coevolved in dynamic environments, molded by neighboring plants.Read more at location 3872 • Delete this highlight Add a note To re-create or mimic the original niches of our now-domesticated plants, we can use a gardening technique called polyculture, a word hybridized from the Greek poly, meaning “many,” and the Latin cultura, “to tend or cultivate.” Polycultures are dynamic, self-organizing plant communities composed ofRead more at location 3875 • Delete this highlight Add a note several to many species.Read more at location 3877 • Delete this highlight Add a note basic principles thatRead more at location 3891 • Delete this highlight Add a note blendRead more at location 3891 • Delete this highlight Add a note common vegetable varieties into combinations that would ripen, one variety after another, over many months to give up to nine months of continuous food.Read more at location 3891 • Delete this highlight Add a note Ianto devised a seven-variety polyculture that mimics natural succession and fills ecological niches—and a garden bed—densely.Read more at location 3894 • Delete this highlight Add a note The thick planting forms a living mulch for the soil,Read more at location 3896 • Delete this highlight Add a note Ianto’s polyculture blends early-sproutingRead more at location 3898 • Delete this highlight Add a note radishes, insect-attracting and edible dill and calendula, lettuce, parsnips, cabbage, and nitrogen-fixing bush beans.Read more at location 3899 • Delete this highlight Add a note Strongly scented dill and calendula will confuse insectsRead more at location 3902 • Delete this highlight Add a note Dill also hosts tiny predatory wasps that attack cabbage loopers. Cabbages,Read more at location 3902 • Delete this highlight Add a note enough diversity to bewilder most pests.Read more at location 3905 • Delete this highlight Add a note thick planting creates a living mulchRead more at location 3905 • Delete this highlight Add a note in Nepal, the Jajarkot Permaculture Program, One tip for a successful annual-vegetable polyculture is to use plants from each of these three groups: fast-growing greens and early vegetables such as radishes and the spring brassicas (broccoli, raab, early cauliflowers), midseason veggies such as beans and onions, and slow-growing plants including fall cauliflower and cabbage, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, and leeks.Read more at location 3925 • Delete this highlight Add a note One month before your last frost date: Start,Read more at location 3930 • Delete this highlight Add a note seedlings each of cabbage, cauliflower, or broccoli indoors.Read more at location 3931 • Delete this highlight Add a note Select a blend of varieties that will ripen over a long season. • Week One (at the last frost date in your region): Create an edible ground cover by densely sowing a mix of mustard greens (Osaka Purple mustard, tatsoi, mizuna, garden cress, and the like) and other cool-season greens such as arugula, garden purslane, and shiso. In regions where spring is warm (May temperatures reaching 80 degrees Fahrenheit), also sow buckwheat. Young buckwheat greens are delicious in salads or stir-fried.Read more at location 3931 • Delete this highlight Add a note Then add some salad crops. Lightly sow the seeds of radishes, chard, lettuces, and carrots among the previously sown seeds.Read more at location 3935 • Delete this highlight Add a note Herb seeds go in next. Sow fennel, dill, and coriander somewhat more densely than the salad crops since they don’t seem to germinate as well. Now add legume seeds to the mix. Push fava beans, bush peas, or a blend of these, into the soil roughly one foot apart. Add some of your favorite alliums, such as onions, garlic, garlic chives, or leeks. Plant either seeds or starts of these, about • Weeks Two to Four: Begin harvesting the edible ground cover. Don’t just trim the leaves; pull the whole plant to create openings. Take care not to disturb the young beans or alliums. Pull a few of the young herbs to thin them out; they’ll make a tangy addition to salads and stews. In some of the resulting gaps, plant cabbage, cauliflower, or broccoli seedlings about eighteen inches apart.Read more at location 3939 • Delete this highlight Add a note Late Spring/Early Summer: When soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant basil and bush beans in the openings.Read more at location 3942 • Delete this highlight Add a note As the spring warms up, many of the greens will bolt. Speed up your harvesting of these to eliminate them before they set seed. Alternatively, if you want to naturalize these greens in your garden, let a few go to seed, then pull the whole plant and lay it on the soil to compost and reseed.Read more at location 3943 • Delete this highlight Add a note To help gardeners design polycultures, Ianto Evans has developed a set of guidelinesRead more at location 3946 • Delete this highlight Add a note Seed several varieties of each species.Read more at location 3947 • Delete this highlight Add a note Don’t sow seed too thickly.Read more at location 3948 • Delete this highlight Add a note Begin your harvest early. Harvest your plants, especially greens, when they begin to crowd,Read more at location 3953 • Delete this highlight Add a note Overcrowding will inhibit rapid growth. Young plants are especially tasty,Read more at location 3954 • Delete this highlight Add a note Mix plant families, not just species. Closely related plants compete for the same nutrients,Read more at location 3955 • Delete this highlight Add a note Include many seeds of fast-growing, shallow-rooted species. Radishes, mustard greens, fenugreek, and buckwheat will cover the soil quickly to thwart weeds and will get your harvest off to a fast start. You’ll eat a lot of these small plants, so plant them the thickest.Read more at location 3957 • Delete this highlight Add a note Overlap the harvests. To extend the harvest season, plant several varieties of each species, each with a different ripening time.Read more at location 3960 • Delete this highlight Add a note blend fast-growing vegetables with slow ones and early-season crops with late. Examples are radishes followed by cabbage, peas followed by bush beans followed by fall fava beans, or spring herbs such as dill succeeded by summer basil.Read more at location 3961 • Delete this highlight Add a note Avoid root and light competition. Sprawling plants such as tomatoes and potatoes may not be appropriate for polycultures since they’ll shade out many other plants.Read more at location 3963 • Delete this highlight Add a note Harvest whole plants. WithRead more at location 3965 • Delete this highlight Add a note This allows room for the other many contenders for the same space. Be gentle; don’t disturb the roots of adjoining plants. Harvest from the densest zonesRead more at location 3966 • Delete this highlight Add a note Examine your polyculture every day. Things happen fast in polycultures.Read more at location 3970 • Delete this highlight Add a note will need daily harvest to continue rapid growth. As the Chinese say, the best fertilizer is the gardener’s shadow.Read more at location 3972 • Delete this highlight Add a note polycultures reside firmly in the realm of vegetable gardening.Read more at location 3974 • Delete this highlight Add a note think of ecosystems as intricate polycultures, with far more complex interactions.Read more at location 3981 • Delete this highlight Add a note In ecosystems, we see qualitiesRead more at location 3982 • Delete this highlight Add a note you won’t see in conventional farms and gardens.Read more at location 3983 • Delete this highlight Add a note Here’s one useful quality: Ecosystems areRead more at location 3985 • Delete this highlight Add a note fundamentally cooperative places. Yes,Read more at location 3985 • Delete this highlight Add a note Plants display outward, measurable characteristics, such as nitrogen fixation, insect attraction, and mulch production.Read more at location 3990 • Delete this highlight Add a note Permaculturists call these imitations of natural associationsRead more at location 3994 • Delete this highlight Add a note guilds.* a guild is a group of plants and animals harmoniously interwoven into a pattern of mutual support, often centered around one major species, that benefits humans while creating habitat.Read more at location 3995 • Delete this highlight Add a note if we ignore the material needs of humans in our urban and suburban landscapes, we’re doomed to continue our voracious consumption of wild land for factory farms and tree plantations.Read more at location 4000 • Delete this highlight Add a note American triad of corn, beans, and squash, a combination often called the Three Sisters. The trio qualifies as a guild because each of these plants supports and benefits the others.Read more at location 4005 • Delete this highlight Add a note Native Americans developed shorter, multistalked cultivars specifically for this guild, such as Black Aztec, Hopi White, or Tarahumara sweet corn, so you might consider a similar many-stalked variety.Read more at location 4013 • Delete this highlight Add a note After harvest, leave the stalks, vines, and other organic debris on the ground to compost in place.Read more at location 4026 • Delete this highlight Add a note In the Southwest, a fourth “sister” is found in this guild: Rocky Mountain bee plant (Cleome serrulata). Often found growing near former Anasazi settlements—it’sRead more at location 4034 • Delete this highlight Add a note The young leaves, flowers, and seedpods of bee plant are edible,Read more at location 4037 • Delete this highlight Add a note The Inca and other New World peoples added their own fourth member to this guild: amaranth. Amaranth is a high-protein grain with tasty leaves.Read more at location 4053 • Delete this highlight Add a note The addition of bee plant or amaranth boosts the Three SistersRead more at location 4058 • Delete this highlight Add a note rule for guild design, which is to start with something familiar and simple and gradually add connections.Read more at location 4059 • Delete this highlight Add a note apple tree.Read more at location 4069 • Delete this highlight Add a note daffodil bulbs.Read more at location 4070 • Delete this highlight Add a note circle of lush comfreyRead more at location 4070 • Delete this highlight Add a note artichoke plants.Read more at location 4071 • Delete this highlight Add a note Dotted around these grow flowers and herbs: yellow bursts of yarrow, trailing orange nasturtiums, and the airy umbels of dill and fennel.Read more at location 4071 • Delete this highlight Add a note dandelion, chicory, and plantain.Read more at location 4072 • Delete this highlight Add a note a thick ground cover of clover,Read more at location 4073 • Delete this highlight Add a note some fava beans and other legumesRead more at location 4073 • Delete this highlight Add a note every guild has elements to do the tasks—disease control, fertilizer production, pollination—necessary for the guild to be healthy and low maintenance. Good guild design lets nature perform all these jobs by fitting different plants and animals into each role. If we leave out one of the guild’s pieces, we’re stuck with performing that part’s task.Read more at location 4075 • Delete this highlight Add a note In keeping with ecological gardening’s emphasis on processes rather than pieces, I’ve organized the guild members by function instead of plant type.Read more at location 4081 • Delete this highlight Add a note Usually the central element is a food-producing plant,Read more at location 4085 • Delete this highlight Add a note The tree should be pruned to an open shape to allow light to reach the plants below.Read more at location 4088 • Delete this highlight Add a note Grass-suppressing bulbs. The shallow roots of bulbs keep grasses from moving into our guild.Read more at location 4089 • Delete this highlight Add a note Daffodils are particularly useful bulbs, as they contain toxins that animals abhor.Read more at location 4095 • Delete this highlight Add a note Insect- and bird-attracting plants. The tempting blossoms of flowering plants will lure pollinators for boosting fruit set and attract predatory wasps that feast on pestiferous larvae such as borers and codling moths.Read more at location 4105 • Delete this highlight Add a note Mulch plants. Growing mulch under the tree eliminates trudging around with a compost-filled wheelbarrow since the guild will build its own soil. Mulch makers include soft-leafed plants such as comfrey, artichokes, cardoon, rhubarb, clovers, and nasturtiums, all of which can be slashed and left to compost in place. A ring of comfrey around the tree can be hacked down four or five times a summer.Read more at location 4114 • Delete this highlight Add a note plants that accumulate nutrients are chicory, dandelion, yarrow, plantain,Read more at location 4121 • Delete this highlight Add a note deep taprootsRead more at location 4122 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nitrogen fixers.Read more at location 4125 • Delete this highlight Add a note a critical component of guilds.Read more at location 4126 • Delete this highlight Add a note another N-fixer strategy, which is to plant a young nitrogen-fixing shrub, such as goumi, bladder senna, or Siberian pea shrub, in the same hole orRead more at location 4134 • Delete this highlight Add a note close to a new fruit tree. Just keep cutting back the shrub to roughly half the size of the tree until the tree is five years old or so and then remove the shrub altogether.Read more at location 4135 • Delete this highlight Add a note Certain plants exude substances that repel pests. Examples are nasturtiums and certain marigolds. Habitat nooks. Piling up stones, logs,Read more at location 4142 • Delete this highlight Add a note or brush near the apple guild and creating small ponds and puddles will attract lizards, frogs, snakes, and birds.Read more at location 4142 • Delete this highlight Add a note climbers such as vetch, which might trellis up the apple and shroud it with vines.Read more at location 4162 • Delete this highlight Add a note rule of thumb, the larger the plant, the fewer of its kind in the guild:Read more at location 4164 • Delete this highlight Add a note New guild-builders often place plants too densely under the tree. ComeRead more at location 4166 • Delete this highlight Add a note do remember to leave room for access.Read more at location 4170 • Delete this highlight Add a note a plant community that immensely lightens the human workload.Read more at location 4171 • Delete this highlight Add a note the saguaro-mesquite lands of the low desert,Read more at location 4203 • Delete this highlight Add a note Local field guidebooks, especially recently published ones, often list the dominant plant communities of the region. will teach us which species regularly occur together.Read more at location 4205 • Delete this highlight Add a note In and around many cities and suburbs,Read more at location 4210 • Delete this highlight Add a note these hybrid communities may be telling us more than the native communities about what plants will work well in our surroundings. Both kinds of communities can teach us the general principles of how plants can be combined, but the hybrids might tell us more about which specific species will work best in our area.Read more at location 4213 • Delete this highlight Add a note that happily thriving mélange of native and imported shrubs, flowers, and weeds in the vacant lot down the street is probably growing in conditions more like those in your yardRead more at location 4217 • Delete this highlight Add a note the mingling of these scrappy species signals that a powerful synergy is taking place. In the right context, some of these plants or their more domesticated relatives could be arrayed in attractive and useful combinations.Read more at location 4221 • Delete this highlight Add a note a guild centered on a walnut tree,Read more at location 4227 • Delete this highlight Add a note pioneer shrub called hackberry (Celtis spp.)Read more at location 4243 • Delete this highlight Add a note Hackberry’s leaves and berries yield good wildlife forage, and the fruit, while small, is tasty, hackberry’s toxins inhibit grasses and other shallow-rooted plants.Read more at location 4247 • Delete this highlight Add a note currantsRead more at location 4253 • Delete this highlight Add a note the half-gloom that currants favor.Read more at location 4257 • Delete this highlight Add a note chiltepine (Capsicum aviculare) and wolfberry (Lycium spp.).Read more at location 4262 • Delete this highlight Add a note Both are members of the Solanaceae, the nightshade family, which also includes tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and eggplants. Tim notes that the Solanaceae are narcissistic—that is, they thrive in the leaf litter of members of their own family.Read more at location 4264 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nitrogen-fixing plantsRead more at location 4269 • Delete this highlight Add a note multiple functions brand them as near-mandatory components of guilds.Read more at location 4270 • Delete this highlight Add a note Russian olive. Other members of Russian olive’s genus, Elaeagnus, will also work,Read more at location 4272 • Delete this highlight Add a note goumi and Elaeagnus × ebbingei, include indigenous nitrogen fixers such as ceanothus, or, in the Southwest, Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa).Read more at location 4275 • Delete this highlight Add a note mulberries, elderberries, black locusts, and acacias. The last two also fix nitrogen and are beloved by bees.Read more at location 4277 • Delete this highlight Add a note the rule for determining numbers is: The bigger the plant, the fewer in the guild.Read more at location 4280 • Delete this highlight Add a note In the South, however, these vegetables will appreciate the walnut’s dappled shade. Radiating outside of this circle, place the mulberries and other buffer plants.Read more at location 4283 • Delete this highlight Add a note guano,Read more at location 4285 • Delete this highlight Add a note small mammals to till, prune, and fertilize.Read more at location 4286 • Delete this highlight Add a note a more academic, armchair method of guild design. Remember, though, that nothing substitutes for observation,Read more at location 4292 • Delete this highlight Add a note searching under “Plant Communities, Oregon”Read more at location 4297 • Delete this highlight Add a note Here are some questions to ask that will help select plants for useful guilds: 1. What is the dominant species of the community?Read more at location 4304 • Delete this highlight Add a note 2. Which plants are offering food to wildlife?Read more at location 4305 • Delete this highlight Add a note 3. Are any plants capable of providing food for humans?Read more at location 4306 • Delete this highlight Add a note 4. Which species are common to more than one community,Read more at location 4308 • Delete this highlight Add a note 5. Does any species show exceptional insect damage or have large numbers of harmful insects living on it? This might not be a desirable variety.Read more at location 4310 • Delete this highlight Add a note 6. What species generates most of the leafRead more at location 4311 • Delete this highlight Add a note litter? Would it make a good mulch plant? 7. How well, and by what mechanisms, does the community withstand drought or flood?Read more at location 4311 • Delete this highlight Add a note 8. Do any plants have bare ground or stunted vegetation near them? 9. Are any plant families heavily represented in the community?Read more at location 4315 • Delete this highlight Add a note 10. Does the community contain any known nitrogen fixers or other nutrient accumulators?Read more at location 4316 • Delete this highlight Add a note The answers to these questions will generate a list of species that can form the backbone of a potential guild.Read more at location 4318 • Delete this highlight Add a note Oaks often swarm with birds probing the bark for insects.Read more at location 4337 • Delete this highlight Add a note madrone.Read more at location 4354 • Delete this highlight Add a note an outstanding tree, luring immense flocks of birds to munch the prolific flowers and berries.Read more at location 4354 • Delete this highlight Add a note suggestion for using this genus is to plant madrone’s close relative, the strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, which bears creamy and sweet, somewhat seedy fruit. Strawberry tree in its full-sized version grows twenty feet tall, but there are bush and dwarf cultivars that will nestle under an oak easily.Read more at location 4359 • Delete this highlight Add a note scionwood.Read more at location 4364 • Delete this highlight Add a note wild strawberries are an obvious choice for a tasty ground cover. shun the heavily domesticated hybrid roses; their pollenless blossoms lack wildlife value, and they demand incessant care. For guild plants in general, choose the less domesticated varieties.Read more at location 4387 • Delete this highlight Add a note Yerba buena is a trailing, aromatic herb with leaves that produce a mild sedative effect when steeped as a tea.Read more at location 4394 • Delete this highlight Add a note American vetch fixes nitrogen, but I might swap it for the more readily available common vetch.Read more at location 4395 • Delete this highlight Add a note guild now contains plants for food, birds and mammals, insects, herbal medicine, and nitrogen fixation, which covers most of the necessary roles of any guild. The only obvious omission from the list is a heavy-duty mulch plant such as comfrey or artichoke.Read more at location 4396 • Delete this highlight Add a note a few more insectary plants (herbs such as dill or fennel or suitable natives)Read more at location 4399 • Delete this highlight Add a note Maximilian sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii) with its fall seeds and dense, sheltering foliage, as well as shoots we can eat and late-season blooms. • Asters of all kinds (Aster spp.) provide seeds and attract tasty insects for birds to munch. • Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) also offers seeds, as well as having medicinal properties and attracting beneficial insects.Read more at location 4425 • Delete this highlight Add a note weave together trees of diverse uses to create a “superguild.” the value of buffer plants.Read more at location 4458 • Delete this highlight Add a note Nitrogen-fixing trees and large shrubs.Read more at location 4477 • Delete this highlight Add a note Black locustsRead more at location 4478 • Delete this highlight Add a note acacia, red or black alder, golden-chain tree, silk tree,Read more at location 4479 • Delete this highlight Add a note guilds can consume a lot of space.Read more at location 4494 • Delete this highlight Add a note guilds are slower to establish than an annual bed. A fruit tree takes several years to bear.Read more at location 4494 • Delete this highlight Add a note Since a guild’s many plants act in close concert, tracing the source of a difficulty— say, stunted fruit on an apple tree—can be challenging.Read more at location 4497 • Delete this highlight Add a note Also, guilds are often site-specific.Read more at location 4507 • Delete this highlight Add a note Some plants aren’t appropriate for guilds, particularly sprawling winter squash that can smother nearby plants, and a few vegetables that insist on a full day of sun.Read more at location 4518 • Delete this highlight Add a note guilds, supplemented with annual beds, can approach the ecological ideal of minimal inputs and maximum diversity. guilds, supplemented with annual beds, can approach the ecological ideal of minimal inputs and maximum diversity.Read more at location 4520 • Delete this highlight Add a note In a guild, we are but one living being among many others; and, like all the other animals enfolded by this community, we nurture and are nurtured by an almost-wild place. We prune and cull, as do the deer and mice.Read more at location 4529 • Delete this highlight Add a note We participate rather than rule.Read more at location 4531 • Delete this highlight Add a note even guilds are just pieces of a larger whole.Read more at location 4537 • Delete this highlight Add a note Now it’s time to tie guildsRead more at location 4537 • Delete this highlight Add a note into a unified, ecologically sound landscape.Read more at location 4537 • Delete this highlight Add a note the process of succession,Read more at location 4538 • Delete this highlight Add a note the end result of succession nearly everywhere is forest. Even in the arid Southwest, dryland forests of ironwood, mesquite, and saguaro cactus blanketed what is nowRead more at location 4539 • Delete this highlight Add a note desert, This is why, as noted earlier, suburbanites must constantly weed and chop out woody seedlings from their well-watered lawns and garden beds. The typical yard, with its perfect regimen of irrigation and fertilizer, is trying hard to become a forest.Read more at location 4543 • Delete this highlight Add a note So why fight this trend toward woodland? Instead, we can work with nature to fashion a multistoried forest garden,Read more at location 4545 • Delete this highlight Add a note pink-flowered silk trees (which just happen to fix nitrogen).Read more at location 4548 • Delete this highlight Add a note I’m not talking about a gloomy mass of light-blocking trees, but an open, many-layered edible woodland garden with plenty of sunny glades and edges. Many yards already contain most of the elements of a forest garden: a few tall trees in front or at the back edge, some shrubs for a hedge or berries, a vegetable patch, a few herbs, and a flower bed. But in the typical yard these elements lie separate and disconnected. A forest garden simply integrates all these pieces into a smoothly working whole.Read more at location 4552 • Delete this highlight Add a note A simple forest garden contains a top layer of trees, a middle level of shrubs, and a ground layer of herbs, vegetables, and flowers. Each plant is chosen for the roles that it will play,Read more at location 4556 • Delete this highlight Add a note A forest garden has a different feel from other garden styles, in large part because trees are a major element, integrated into and defining the other layers.Read more at location 4560 • Delete this highlight Add a note in a forest garden, trees—their leaves arching overhead, The trees dominate, yet without smothering other plants.Read more at location 4564 • Delete this highlight Add a note the aristocrats of the plant world.Read more at location 4566 • Delete this highlight Add a note trees—as full, integrated partners, not merely as scattered specimens—are a prerequisite for a healthy, sustainable landscape.Read more at location 4567 • Delete this highlight Add a note unparalleled,Read more at location 4569 • Delete this highlight Add a note for productivity you can’t beat trees.Read more at location 4570 • Delete this highlight Add a note without annual replanting. Apple and other fruit tree yields can reach seven tons per acre,Read more at location 4571 • Delete this highlight Add a note Trees reach deep into the earth for nutrients and water, and far and wide into the sky for solar power. They are life’s largest, most effective natural collectors of energy and matter. So, by incorporating trees as integral elements of the garden, we’re putting heavy hitters on our team.Read more at location 4574 • Delete this highlight Add a note the gardener can mix and match the styles to tailor a garden that combines food, beauty, habitat, species preservation, and income. southerners may desire dense spacing to provide needed shade. too much shade fruit yields and flower density won’t be as large in the shady parts of the understory as in full sun. once established, forest gardens are low-maintenance because the thick vegetation cover reduces water needs, smothers weeds, and renews soil through self-mulching and natural soil building. Forest gardening is a young field for North American gardeners, but it has a long history. Food forests have existed for millennia in the tropics, The surrounding tangle of vegetation was assumed to be untamed jungle, and these people were branded as practicing only primitive agriculture. Rampant growth was slashed back several times each year and used for mulch or animal fodder. His book, Forest Gardening, Robert Hart How to Make a Forest Garden, by Patrick Whitefield. Edible Forest Gardens, by David Jacke and Eric Toensmeier. bee plants such as borage and comfrey; other insectary species, including fennel, celery, dill, and coriander; and strongly scented pest-confusers such as horseradish, Mexican marigold, garlic mustard, and walking onions. slug-eating snakes scionwood for grafting. Nitrogen-fixers: Siberian pea shrub, Russian olive, fava beans, clovers, lupine, bird’s-foot trefoil, fenugreek, alfalfa. Insectary plants: borage, buckwheat, comfrey, fennel, celery, dill, coriander, oregano, chamomile. • Pest fumigants and repellents: horseradish, Mexican marigold, garlic mustard, walking onion. Dwarf fruit trees, the usual choice for small spaces and high production, fared poorly. They are bred to have feeble root systems, which keeps them small. But in these nutrient-poor soils and harsh conditions, the skimpy roots meant starvation. “Polish swales.” Instead of digging swales into the rocky soil, he does it backward: he piles up small branches along the contour lines, adding compost and discarded greenery, along with stones and other available debris. This forms berms that trap soil, leaf litter, manure and bird poop, and anything else sluicing down the steep slopes. The berms of these inverted swales slow down water and force it to percolate down into the food forest’s root zone. greenhouses christened Mana after the Hawaiian spiritual force, grows like a gossamer bud from his house. One key to his success is an inflatable double-walled clear plastic that insulates far better than glass and is much less expensive. a deluxe forest garden can contain as many as seven tiers of vegetation. As the illustration below shows, a seven-layered forest garden contains tall trees, low trees, shrubs, herbs, ground covers, vines, and root crops. The canopy trees will define the major patterns of the forest garden, so they must be chosen carefully. on dwarf and semidwarf rootstocks to keep them low growing. Plus, we can plant naturally small trees such as apricot, peach, nectarine, almond, medlar, and mulberry. Here also are shade-tolerant fruit trees such as persimmon and pawpaw. can easily be pruned into an open form, dogwood and mountain ash, and some nitrogen fixers, including golden-chain tree, silk tree, can be pruned heavily to generate plenty of mulch and compost. herb is used in the broad botanical sense to mean nonwoody vegetation: vegetables, flowers, culinary herbs, and cover crops, as well as mulch producers and other soil-building plants. include strawberries, nasturtium, clover, creeping thyme, ajuga, and the many prostrate varieties of flowers such as phlox and verbena. They play a critical role in weed prevention, occupying ground that would otherwise succumb to invaders. will twine up trunks and branches, kiwifruit, grapes, hops, passionflower, and vining berries; and those for wildlife, such as honeysuckle and trumpet-flower. These can include climbing annuals such as squash, cucumbers, and melons. Most of the plants for the root layer should be shallow rooted, such as garlic and onions, or easy-to-dig types such as potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes. carrots don’t work well sprinkle a few seeds of daikon (Asian radish) in open spots it’s easy to place spindly seedlings too close together, leading to overcrowding and dense shade when they mature. Leave room for sunlight to penetrate between full-grown trees, Early on, include plenty of nitrogen-fixing and other soil-building plants. The open spaces between trees and shrubs can at first be filled with annual vegetables, flowers, nitrogen-fixing cover crops Tall trees are best placed to the north to reduce the shade cast on other plantings, but wide spacing will also allow ample sunlight Renew the mulch once or twice a year to build the soil quickly and smother weeds. the wisest strategy is to get zone 1 established first and then expand outward. I’d advise planting a soil-building, habitat-providing cover crop mix. This will keep weeds at bay and boost fertility until we’re ready to plant the lower layers. This lush mix need be mowed only once or twice a year, so it needs very little maintenance while it boosts fertility. Cover crops are a good strategy for less-visited parts of a garden. grass- and rodent-suppressing bulbs near the tree trunk, mulch plants, insect-attractors, and other guild members—depending on their need for light— should be tucked into openings between neighboring trees and shrubs, nestled into pockets under the branches, or lined alongside paths to allow access for picking and pruning. Guilds very near the house should emphasize plants for food, medicine, and other human use, with less florae for wildlife, mulch production, and the like. Keep the mulch pulled back from the tree trunks to discourage bark-gnawing rodents. After three or four years, The gardener won’t need to import much fertilizer and mulch any more, as the forest, through the rain of leaves and the upward tug of deep-soil nutrients through roots, will be just about self-sufficient. The forest garden reaches yet further, into the fourth dimension of time. Urban yards are rarely big enough to encompass more than permacultural zone 1 and a modest zone 2, the areas of intensive use. As Bill Mollison says, where you have fruit, you have friends. organic matter in a metropolis is considered waste. It is a surplus that must be disposed of. Spent coffee is excellent compost fodder, particularly for a worm compost bin, which is a space-saving soil technique perfect for urban houses and even apartments. Websites such as Craigslist and FreeCycle Houston, Texas, Kevin Topek of Permaculture Design, LLC. the boundary between two environments— lets us create microclimates, increase yields and biodiversity, The sun/shade edge. even the shady places are bright enough for many plants to grow. the north sides of buildings are in eternal shade, something almost never experienced in nature. albedo the amount of reflected light And if that dark north edge is under the eaves of a house, it becomes the gardener’s nemesis: dry shade, a place where few plants can thrive. perhaps this confluence of tricky sectors is telling us to consider the spot for some function other than planting, such as storage or socializing. After all, it’s shady, which in summer heat can be a fine place for a deck or patio, and humans, unlike plants, don’t require moist soil. redirect excess water away from the wet spots and into the dry ones, using swales, berms, or other earth contours.wild variations in soil moisture. Soil under a building’s eaves may stay dry all year, while inches away the downspout might create a permanent bog. That’s a harsh habitat transition that few plant species can bridge. The west side of a house will cook in afternoon sun, while just around the corner, the permanent shade of the north face is cool. the entire metropolitan belt is usually several degrees warmer than the surrounding countryside. That heat evaporates soil moisture quickly, creates wind, and dries the air, stressing plants. Soils in cities often contain lead, deposited in a light dusting everywhere during the era of leaded gasoline and in concentrated bands along the foundations of most houses built before 1960, when lead-based paints were the rule. Rainwater running down road gutters could be an abundant resource for irrigation when shunted onto yards via curbcuts and bioswales, but since it is blended with petroleum drippings, it must be cleaned up first. Concrete itself is alkaline, thus runoff from streets, sidewalks, and foundations raises soil pH. much of what you need to know will be told simply by checking the pH. A basic pH meter is inexpensive and comes with instructions. Or pH-testing paper from garden or aquarium supply stores will do; just thoroughly mix soil and water in equal proportions, let the soil settle out, dip the pH paper in the water, and compare the color to the chart in the kit. Soils that are outside a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 can be corrected with lime (for acid soil) or gypsum (for alkaline soil). Mushroom guru Paul Stamets Mycelium Running, Mushrooms fill a crucial and neglected niche in the urban garden. Most other soil-edge difficulties can likewise be solved, or at least abated, by adding organic matter, whether by compost, mulches, or cover crops. the so-called Venturi effect Keyhole beds minimizes path area and maximizes growing space. example of a space-efficient interplant is carrots, onions, and lettuce. bush beans and lettuce. Radishes and young salad greens Marjorie Hunt, High-Yield Gardening, bush collards underplanted with a groundcover of strawberries and Nepalese raspberries, with chives, parsley, and garden sorrel in the openings. chard have packed into any remaining bare patches, Square-foot gardens. his recommended soil mix uses vermiculite and peat moss—two ingredients that are very fossil-fuel intensive—and fairly high inputs (wood for the bed walls, lots of compost, and the optional vermiculite and peat moss), Biointensive gardening. an alternative for urbanites to sacrificing precious yard space for compost crops is to harvest the urban waste streams. A pecan/hickory cross called a hican is both smaller (to twenty-five feet) and more cold-tolerant (to USDA Zone 4) than the pecan itself. Pine nuts can be had via the Siberian dwarf pine, which reaches only ten feet in height. Urban guilds often contain fewer species than their more expansive large-yard counterparts. ringed the small space with edible daylilies and a perennial onion relative called ramps (Allium tricoccum). The second guild is based on a peach tree. Beneath the peach is a goumi, mentioned in Chapter 6 as a nitrogen-fixing shrub with edible berries. Also tucked under the peach are a honeysuckle bush, sea kale with its edible greens and shoots, a couple of purple-flowered Veronica spicata (speedwell) plants to attract insects, and a ground cover of Himalayan raspberry. I’ve pruned the peach to an open form to allow plenty of light to reach the plants beneath. Winter squash, melons, and cucumbers are often left to ramble, yet their natural habit is to climb. Indeterminate tomatoes can be trained to grow up a single string if side shoots are religiously trimmed. I’ve seen zucchini, normally a floppy bush, carefully taught to climb. trellises along their northern edges, where they won’t shade other plants. Tepee frames can be set over small mounds and odd spots. And poles can be tucked anywhere. Adding a few weeks to either end of the garden-friendly season and growing more in the allotted season gives us the same benefits as having more room: create microclimates that lengthen the growing season or let us grow plants from outside our climate regime. permaculture itself, is really about making efficient use of time and labor. Expanding Time with Microclimates lots are so small, often our efforts can improve the climate of the entire yard In hot parts of the country, that means creating cooler conditions over much of the yard. In places with wild seasonal swings, such as the high desert, our challenge is to cool off the summer highs without exacerbating the bitter winter lows. begin by observing. walk around on a day when conditions are leaning toward, but not fully at, the ones you hope to avoid. heat moves around in two principal ways: by radiating from a warm place to a cooler one and by air mixing. Observe where shade falls in the yard and how it changes over the year. High pruning, pruning to an open shape, and trimming back of trees will let in more light. Another strategy is to favor deciduous plants with seasonally bare branches that allow winter sun to warm cold ground. Note that, even under trees, sun reaches the east, south, and west sides at some time of day or year. Sun-loving plants can be located in these places, The south and west sides of any object will usually get warmer than the east side, so those are the best places for storing heat. dense objects such as rock and concrete that don’t cool quickly once warm. air mixing. to warm a cool place, we want to slow or stop the wind from stealing our heat. in hot regions we want to do precisely the opposite. Here we avoid letting warmth build up, use air mixing to carry it off, and treasure and enhance cool places and times. In hot climates, shade and breezes are your friends. Arbors, roof overhangs, and the canopies of large trees and shrubs should cover as much ground as is practical. summer sun is intense enough to supersaturate plants’ ability to photosynthesize. in low latitudes, most plants can be fully productive in partial shade. Fences and privacy screens may be necessary in city lots, but in hot climates, make them permeable rather than solid so wind can flow through them. Avoid dense materials like stone and dark-colored objects Structures in sun should be thin and light—boards or thin metal rather than rocks, say, for edging beds or for fences—so they will lose their heat quickly when the sun is gone. Rooftops are increasingly sprouting gardens, both because land is expensive and because covering the dark, heat-absorbing surfaces of urban roofs helps cool our cities and reduce stormwater runoff. vermiculite or perlite require high-energy inputs. wasteful, life-denying grass the hell strip.
One oft-overlooked bit of potential garden space in cities is the parking strip, also known as the right-of-way or the hell strip. It’s also not really under the homeowner’s control: Although the homeowner must maintain it, it’s usually encumbered with a file-full of easements to the power utility, the phone and cable companies, and the city, often with restrictions on what can be planted there. Plus, it’s the public right-of-way. Any citizen has the right to freely pass across this strip of ground, for access to parked cars, for relieving dogs, and for anything else on the legal side of loitering and vandalism. start by learning what your city will allow there and how those ordinances are enforced. My own decidedly unscientific survey of several cities suggests that the most common restrictions are on tree size beneath power lines. Another common rule prohibits fruit trees along streets since the fruit may drop on cars. (How rich we must be to value automobiles more than food!) some cities insist that any plants other than trees and shrubs must be shorter than one foot, to allow easy access to cars. However, every official I spoke to, when pressed, said that these rules were almost never enforced, even after complaints. Soil on hell strips is often badly compacted. A first step is to fluff it up by adding compost and mulch. underlying cardboard or newspaper doesn’t protrude, which is both unsightly—we want to stay friends with neighbors here—and slows decomposition. In arid regions, we go down rather than up: A sunken parking strip will hold precious rain and can harvest runoff from the sidewalk, so here we want to dig basins and swales. These depressions don’t have to be caverns, just an inch or two below sidewalk level. These can be mulched, too. other useful roles the parking strip can play: a place for bird and beneficial-insect habitat, carbon sequestering, soil building, and ornamental plants. The hell strip lends itself to small guilds. A shrub or small tree accompanied by a few smaller insectary, nutrient-accumulating, and other functional plants will need little care once established. Envision the magic of a street edged with guilds of bird-habitat There is, however, one big incentive for planting the largest practical trees on parking strips: They raise property values. A California realtor’s association estimates that a mature street tree adds $6,500 to the sale price of a house. The most appealing, and expensive, neighborhoods in any city are those with tree-lined streets. Tying cities back into natural ecosystems is important, and creating habitat for birds and insects is one of the best ways to do this. These small creatures weave connections among individual species, plant communities, and whole ecosystems by transporting seeds, pollen, and nutrients. Cities are also becoming friendly again to small livestock and poultry. Many towns have dropped their prohibitions of poultry in urban yards. The revised ordinances usually exclude roosters and limit hens to three or four. even three hens will provide a dozen or more eggs per week during warmer months, enough for a family. all rabbits trim grass and weeds and produce a manure that is high in nutrients but less liable to burn plants than chicken droppings. Cats, too, can be a challenge in multifunctional landscapes. To have joyfully created some enticing bird habitat and then see a cat convert it into a private killing ground brings on both horror and guilt. In some cases it comes down to a stark choice between having either birds or outdoor cats, but often it’s neighboring cats that are the problem. Commercial cat repellents are moderately useful. Another solution is to concentrate bird habitat well off the ground by limbing up trees and thinning shrubs, so that ground-feeding birds are not attracted. Cats will also use bare soil as their litter box, which is yet another reason to mulch. I’ve also used floating Permaculture is a design approach to create landscapes that function like ecosystems, once we grasp the pattern of a gentle edge that arcs to the ground in a graceful curve instead of a harsh right angle, and as we understand how nature nests shapes inside each other like Russian matrioshka dolls and orders them so each can catch light, water, and fertility, form permaculture, function permaculture, Create healthy soil, and the rest of gardening simplifies. Healthy soil ensures that the second element of a self-sustaining garden, water, is in abundance. the natural condition of this garden is abundantly moist. third element, on center stage, is the vegetation. animals, an ecological garden swarms with niches for pollinators, pest controllers, and scavengers The beauty and effectiveness of the ecological garden is in how the parts are connected. a dense web of connectedness. each function is performed by multiple elements. often yields unexpected synergies. ladybugs that have lain semidormant amid yarrow and fennel Ecological gardens are constantly evolving, and the process of their evolution—not just the final product—is fascinating to watch. Each year brings new treats Providing the right pieces and getting important cycles going is most of the work in creating an ecological garden. Catching and holding resources is the key to a sustainable garden (or society, for that matter). Fertility builders can make up as much as half of a young garden. In poor soils, having 25 percent N-fixing plants to begin with is not too many. variety is important. Choose plants of different heights, both woody and soft-tissued ones, having diverse fruit, flowers, leaves, and twigs to support the many types of feeding styles, with dense and open foliage and a selection that offers food at all seasons. Digging swales and channels to catch runoff, adding humus to soil, using deep mulches and dense plantings, and capturing rooftop rain drawing animals into the garden can be as simple as hanging a bird feeder where we want soil scratched and manure dropped.. this may just be bird poop, but from the ecological viewpoint it’s a useful input that the gardener didn’t have to work for. the whole remains. And in a living net, the breaks are quickly repaired by the shifting, breeding, swarming surge of life. It is this webwork, more than any other factor, that distinguishes the ecological garden from the more conventional, vulnerable forms. niche-enhancers include birdhouses and feeders, mulch to hide predaceous beetles and attract insect-hunting birds, rockeries for helpful lizards and snakes, brush piles for bugs and birds, and ponds to offer homes for fish and amphibians and drinking spots for other animals. Nurse, scaffold, and chaperone plants--Helper plants are one of the biggest factors that propel a garden toward behaving like an ecosystem. Use them liberally. Guilds, or plant communities pick up much of the gardener’s work. each element to have multiple functions—a a deeply interwoven landscape begins to act as a single being, with its own character and novelties. This makes the ecological garden a fascinating place. chunking. start small and close to the house, find out what works, get one area growing successfully, and then repeat this pattern after an initial period of sluggish plant growth and imperceptible soil improvement, the garden suddenly explodes into life and seethes with greenery, fruit, blossoms, and wildlife. nitrogen fixers like New Mexico locust, Russian olive, and Siberian pea shrub.” In the shade of these, they planted fruit and nut trees that would eventually soar past the nitrogen-fixing nurse plants to form the canopy. “We’d work on creating a favorable spot, concentrating our resources there, and then grow out from those nuclei,” a nearly closed canopy of greenery now cast cool shade that offered refuge from the intense New Mexico sun and kept the soil from burning to dry powder. Deep mulches, for example, quickly boost the amount of energy and food available for soil life. Ramping up the activity of the decomposers by adding plenty of organic matter unchains the once-stunted plant and animal life. Deep-mulching the area around a house, combined with dense planting, creates an expanding circle of vigorous life and fertility. The densely interconnected soil, plant, and animal life are now surging with nutrients, water, pollen, chemical messages, and other “information flows.” The living interconnectivity of the garden is so boosted that it becomes a fibrous knot of life, virtually impossible to wound, invade, or otherwise destabilize. this kind of garden fills out quickly because nearly any potential resource that enters it will be grabbed by some waiting organism. That translates into fast growth and dense interconnections. It’s another example of the “rich get richer” phenomenon, more formally called the law of increasing returns. Designing with zones ensures that the places that need the most care are the closest to hand, making it easy to notice the little bare spot that needs mulching, the drooping ground cover crying for water, or the slugs perforating the lettuce. Now let’s look at how we can speed up the process to accelerate our arrival at that delightful popping stage. Start with the Soil. Not only is the soil the base of the ecological pyramid and thus the logical place to begin, but very shortly the soil will be stuffed with perennial plants and thus be much harder to work on. Bringing the soil to rich, loamy fertility will accelerate and invigorate all that succeeds it.
the first step is to create a small bed of rich soil near the front or back door or in other close-in site this soil needs to be immensely fertile. sheet mulching is the method I prefer. Doug Clayton now applies the insecticide Imidan once a year to his fruit trees. He believes a single dose of this effective pesticide is far less harmful than what he once used: almost-weekly sprayings of organically acceptable, yet very toxic, pyrethrum and rotenone. think long-term. 4, I consider adding compost to be a short-term method, an emergency technique to quickly bring soil to decent fertility so that a patch of ground can be pushed into production fast. But to build soil that is truly surging with life, I like sheet mulching—composting in place— because it encourages multiple generations of soil life The downside is that the sheet-mulched bed won’t reach maximum fertility for a year or two. But it still can and should be planted immediately by using soil pockets or a thin top-dressing of good soil. mulch--remember to cover a small area well rather than a large area thinly. Where exactly to locate these precious first garden beds? Here’s where knowing a little about microclimates comes in handy. In general, look for sites that have no wild swings of temperature, moisture, or sunlight. Desirable in almost any location is lack of wind, so locate the heart of zone 1 in the still shelter of a house, another important early step in ecological design is to define and control a property’s edges. Edge, after all, is where flows and energy enter a site. These are opportunities. If missed, they can become problems. where do weeds and pests come from? From off the site. We need barriers at the edges fence or other quick windbreak, and this feature most likely will be located at the edge of the yard. If nature’s assembly rules are that specific and complex, what are the chances that a humble gardener can collect all the right elements to make a landscape pop? Very good odds, as it turns out. Nature is very forgiving and resilient, as both its continued survival in the face of human damage and ecology research prove. They were surprised to find how often this random mixing resulted in a stable ecosystem. These experiments confirm what many permaculture gardeners have learned: We don’t know exactly how the assembly of successful guilds and ecosystems works, but if we begin with a wide array of plant types, nature will usually sort out something that clicks. assembling a backyard ecosystem is not as difficult as one might think. Nature adheres to a deep order. It is as if living beings “want” to come together to form coherent communities. Given half a chance, plants and animals will self-organize into a connected whole. transforming our own viewpoint, from a static bits-and-pieces orientation to one based on the interconnectedness of nature, may be the biggest hurdle of all. a lifetime of study, observation, and puttering among the plants. Plants for a Future http://www.pfaf.org/user/Default.aspx On our website, pfaf.org, you can search for over 7000 edible and medicinal plants using a number of search criteria including: common and Latin names, keyword, family, habitat and use (medicinal, edible or other). Gaia Greek goddess of the Earth, and the origin of the word root geo-, as in geography and geology. Also, as in Gaia theory, James Lovelock’s idea that many of Earth’s processes are self-regulating. guild A harmoniously interwoven group of plants and animals, often centered around one major species, that benefits humans while creating habitat. plant communities Groupings of trees, shrubs, and nonwoody plants that naturally occur together and seem to be connected as a whole. polycultures Dynamic, self-organizing plant communities composed of several to many species. swale A shallow trench laid out dead level along the land’s contours to allow water to enter the soil. Campbell, Stu, and Donna Moore. The Mulch Book: A Complete Guide for Gardeners. Storey Books, 1991. A good introduction to mulching. Creasy, Rosalind. Organic Gardener’s Edible Plants. Van Patten, 1993. Descriptions of over 130 edible ornamental plants. ———. The Complete Book of Edible Landscaping. Sierra Club, 1982. The foundation book that brought vegetables into the front yard. Gershuny, Grace. Start with the Soil. Rodale, 1993. A superb handbook on the how and why of creating great soil. Hart, Robert. Forest Gardening: Cultivating an Edible Landscape. Chelsea Green, 1996. A personal account of forest garden design by one of the originators of the field. Holmgren, David. ———. Permaculture: Pathways and Principles Beyond Sustainability. Holmgren Design Services, 2002. Permaculture’s principles applied to sustainability and energy descent, by the field’s cofounder. Jacke, David, and Eric Toensmeier. Edible Forest Gardens. Chelsea Green, 2005. The new bible on forest gardening, highly recommended. [2 vol. set, Hardcover $ 104 82 ] Ludwig, Art. Create an Oasis with Greywater: Your Complete Guide to Choosing, Building and Using Greywater Systems. Oasis Design, 2000. The best practical guide to graywater systems. Mollison, Bill. Permaculture: A Designers’ Manual. Tagari, 1988. The fat bible on permaculture, worth many rereadings and perusings. Smith, J. Russell. Tree Crops: A Permanent Agriculture. Devin-Adair, 1987. One of the inspirations for the permaculture concept, showing how trees are key to sustainable agriculture. Stein, Sara. Noah’s Garden: Restoring the Ecology of Our Own Back Yards. Houghton Mifflin, 1995. A well-written and compelling plea for allowing nature back into our yards, full of natural history. Stout, Ruth. The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book. Rodale, 1975. Using deep mulches to reduce labor and improve fertility. Toensmeier, Eric. Perennial Vegetables. Chelsea Green, 2007. The best book on growing perennial vegetables, covering most known species for temperate climates. [kindle $19.95, paper $25.65] Magazines Permaculture Activist PO Box 5516, Bloomington, IN 47407 www.permacultureactivist.net/ $23/year, 4 issues. Permaculture Institute USA PO Box 3702, Pojoaque, NM 87501 505-455-0270 email@example.com Abundant Life Seed Foundation PO Box 772, Port Townsend,WA 98368 360-385-5660 www.abundantlifeseeds.com/ Nonprofit growers and collectors of nonhybrid seeds. Catalog $2. Deep Diversity Box 190, Gila, NM 88038 www.one-garden.org/deep.htm The brilliant Alan Kapuler’s delightful and esoteric seed collection. Forestfarm Nursery 990 Tetherow Rd., Williams, OR 97544-9599 541-846-7269 www.forestfarm.com Forestfarm Nursery 990 Tetherow Rd., Williams, OR 97544-9599 541-846-7269 www.forestfarm.com This may be the most extensive supply of useful plants in the United States—over 3,000 varieties. Catalog $5 and worth it. Native Seeds/SEARCH 525 N. 4th Ave., Tucson AZ 85705-8450 520-327-9123 www.nativeseeds.org/ Specializes in heirloom varieties from Mexico and the Southwest. Catalog $1. Plants of the Southwest Agua Fria Rd., Rt. 5 Box 11A, Santa Fe, NM 87501 800-788-7333 www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/ Native plants and seeds from the Southwest. Visit his Web site at http://patternliteracy.com.
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YarrowFive Reasons to Grow Yarrow Yarrow is a flowering herb with many uses medicinally and in the permaculture garden. Here are 5 reasons why you will benefit from growing yarrow.
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to the dry, disturbed soils of prairies, meadows, and the edges of forest in the northern hemisphere. This perennial grows best in hardiness zones 3-9. Like many other prairie plants, its deep, fibrous roots enjoy absorbing water in my rain garden. It will grow to 36-inches high and produce white flowers. Other varieties produce pink, yellow, red, or orange flowers.
Even if you don’t grow yarrow in your garden, it is a fun herb to forage for. The fern-like foliage of yarrow can be spotted in sunny, cleared areas.
Here are five reasons why I enjoy growing yarrow in my garden.
1. Yarrow Accumulates Nutrients (Fertilizer)
Yarrow is a nutrient accumulator. According to Edible Forest Gardens, its deep roots mine the subsoil for potassium, phosphorus, and copper, making yarrow a nutrient-rich mulch.
Fruit trees: Because of its ability to fertilize, yarrow is often grown in fruit tree guilds to enhance fruit production.
Mulch & Compost: Yarrow can also be chopped and used as mulch around the garden, or added to the compost bin to boost its nutrient content.
In a food forest, where edible perennials like tall nut trees have recently been planted, it will be important to protect the soil until the trees have matured. A mixed cover crop can be used in this less-visited area to build soil, mine minerals, break up compacted soil, and attract beneficial insects.
In Gaia’s Garden, Toby Hemenway suggests a mixture of the following, which would only need mowed once or twice per year:
For more about food forests, see Benefits of the Edible Forest Garden.
Would you like to learn more about using herbs like yarrow to improve the biodiversity of your garden, reduce maintenance, and increase yield?
You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.
Clean up Lead Contamination
Yarrow mines copper from the subsoil which is an important micronutrient for plant growth and an essential amendment for acidic soils. According to Gaia’s Garden, however, plants that mine for copper can also concentrate lead if it is present in the soil, “such as along the foundation of old houses where lead-based paint may have weathered”. A simple and inexpensive soil test can inform you about contaminated soil.
This is why yarrow and many other accumulators of copper and zinc are used to clean up lead-contaminated sites: The lead concentrates in the plants, which are dug up at the end of each season (roots and all) and disposed of. It may take more than one season to remove all of the lead, and regular soil tests are important. Because the leaves may be toxic in lead-contaminated sites, it would be important to NOT use these plants for mulching, medicinal, edible, or craft purposes.
2. Yarrow Attracts Beneficial Insects & Pollinators
Yarrow, with its white, yellow, or pink flowers, attracts many types of pollinators in search of nectar while it blooms summer through early fall. A wealth of beneficial insects such as lacewings, parasitoid wasps, ground beetles, spiders, ladybugs, and hoverflies find habitat for egg-laying or refuge for overwintering in the fern-like foliage. According to Carrots Love Tomatoes, yarrow emits a pungent odor that repels pests, and is therefore a boon to grow near pest-prone gardens.
3. Yarrow makes a good Ground Cover
If left to its own devices, yarrow will grow to about 3-feet high, producing flowers throughout the summer. However, yarrow can be grown as a running ground cover that can handle light foot traffic if it is mowed a few times a year (according to Edible Forest Gardens). Yarrow may not flower if it has been cut, but the beneficial insects will still be able to utilize the foliage for refuge.
4. Yarrow has Medicinal Uses
The flower and the upper portions of leaf and stem have many medicinal uses, making yarrow an important herb to have in your medicinal garden.
A yarrow tea can help to reduce a fever and a yarrow poultice can calm the inflammation and soreness of a bruise.
Yarrow has many first aid uses such as stopping bleeding, or as a general first aid remedy for calming and healing rashes, bug bites, bee stings, cuts, and burns.
According to Homegrown Herbs, the yellow flowers should not be taken internally, such as in teas, tinctures, elixirs, syrup, or honey. Only white or pink flower yarrows should be used for internal medicine. Also be aware that yarrow should not be taken internally by pregnant women.
5. Yarrow is Edible & Crafty
Individual flowers are edible, and Homegrown Herbs suggests using them for a confetti effect in cookie batter.
The dried cut flowers also make beautiful wreaths and dried bouquets.
Useful or not, yarrow is a joy to have in the garden!
Yarrow Care – Growing Yarrow Herb In Your Garden While often sold as a flowering perennial, yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard. Yarrow care is so easy that the plant is virtually care-free. Let’s take a look at how to plant yarrow and also tips for how to grow yarrow.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought.
While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
YARROW: HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND CARE FOR YARROW Yarrow is a hardy perennial with showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers. Their fern-like leaves are often aromatic. Yarrows are easy to care for and versatile: they are good for borders, rock gardens, or wildflower meadows. These flowers are excellent for cutting or drying.
Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2– to 4–inch layer of compost.
Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrows thrive in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrows in rich soil, the plants may require stalking because the rich soil encourages growth.
Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
Coronation Gold, for its beautiful mustard-yellow flowers and silvery gray leaves
Fanal (“The Beacon”), for its rich red flowers with yellow centers
Cerise Queen, to add some bright pink color to your garden
WIT & WISDOM
Native Americans used ground yarrow infused in water as a wash to treat sunburns. It is also sometimes used as a remedy for anxiety and stress.
Yarrow is thought to symbolize everlasting love.
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Chicory [Cichorium intybus]Chicory Common chicory, Cichorium intybus, is a somewhat woody, perennial herbaceous plant of the dandelion family Asteraceae, usually with bright blue flowers, rarely white or pink. Many varieties are cultivated for salad leaves, chicons (blanched buds), or roots (var. sativum), which are baked, ground, and used as a coffee substitute and additive. It is also grown as a forage crop for livestock. It lives as a wild plant on roadsides in its native Europe, and is now common in North America, China, and Australia, where it has become widely naturalized. "Chicory" is also the common name in the United States for curly endive (Cichorium endivia); these two closely related species are often confused.
Common chicory is also known as blue daisy, blue dandelion, blue sailors, blue weed, bunk, coffeeweed, cornflower, hendibeh, horseweed, ragged sailors, succory, wild bachelor's buttons, and wild endive.
Wild chicory leaves usually have a bitter taste. Their bitterness is appreciated in certain cuisines, such as in the Ligurian and Apulian regions of Italy and also in southern part of India along with coffee, in Catalonia, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Palestine.
In Ligurian cuisine, wild chicory leaves are an ingredient of preboggion and in Greek cuisine of horta; in the Apulian region, wild chicory leaves are combined with fava bean puree in the traditional local dish fave e cicorie selvatiche. in Albania, the leaves are used as a spinach substitute, mainly served simmered and marinated in olive oil, or as ingredient for fillings of byrek.
By cooking and discarding the water, the bitterness is reduced, after which the chicory leaves may be sautéed with garlic, anchovies, and other ingredients. In this form, the resulting greens might be combined with pasta or accompany meat dishes.
The chicory plant is one of the earliest cited in recorded literature. Horace mentions it in reference to his own diet, which he describes as very simple: "Me pascunt olivae, me cichorea, me malvae" ("As for me, olives, endives, and mallows provide sustenance").
In 1766, Frederick the Great banned the importation of coffee into Prussia leading to the development of a coffee-substitute by Brunswick innkeeper Christian Gottlieb Förster (died 1801), who gained a concession in 1769/70 to manufacture it in Brunswick and Berlin. By 1795 there were 22 to 24 factories of this type in Brunswick. Lord Monboddo describes the plant in 1779 as the "chicoree", which the French cultivated as a pot herb.
In Napoleonic Era France, chicory frequently appeared as either an adulterant in coffee, or as a coffee substitute.
Chicory was also adopted as a coffee substitute by Confederate soldiers during the American Civil War, and has become common in the United States. It was also used in the United Kingdom during the Second World War, where Camp Coffee, a coffee and chicory essence, has been on sale since 1885.
The cultivated chicory plant has a history reaching back to ancient Egyptian time. Medieval monks raised the plants and when coffee was introduced to Europe, the Dutch thought that chicory made a lively addition to the bean drink.
In the United States chicory root has long been used as a substitute for coffee in prisons. By the 1840s, the port of New Orleans was the second largest importer of coffee (after New York). Louisianans began to add chicory root to their coffee when Union naval blockades during the American Civil War cut off the port of New Orleans, thereby creating a long-standing tradition.
A common meal in Rome, puntarelle, is made with chicory sprouts.
The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) reports that Chicory is a native plant of western Asia, North Africa and Europe.
Cichorium intybus has been declared an invasive species in several states in the USA.
Information On How To Grow Chicory Chicory plant (Cichorium intybus) is an herbaceous biennial that is not native to the United States but has made itself at home. The plant can be found growing wild in many areas of the U.S. and is used both for its leaves and its roots. Chicory herb plants are easy to grow in the garden as a cool season crop. Seeds and transplants are the primary means of growing chicory.
There are two types of chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors.
In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March.
Planting chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds.
The seeds are planted ¼ inch deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory herb plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
How to Grow Chicory
Learning how to grow chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. Chicory requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter.
It performs best when temperatures are below 75 degrees F. (24 C.).
Extended care of the chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. Chicory plant requires 1 to 2 inches of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.
The herb is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.
Herb to Know: Chicory Hardy perennial. Chicory, also known as succory, blue-sailors and ragged-sailors, is a hardy perennial native to Eurasia but was transplanted and now grows naturally throughout North America, south to Florida and west to California. It is common along roadsides and in other wild, untamed areas, especially in limestone soils. All species in the genus Cichorium are native to Eurasia. The words chicory, succory, Cichorium and intybus are all derived from Greek or Latin names for the herb.
Chicory resembles dandelion in its deep taproot and rosette of toothed basal leaves; unlike dandelion, it puts up a stiff, hairy flower stalk clothed sparsely with small, clasping leaves. Stalks may grow 2 to 5 feet tall and branch several times. Stalkless flower heads 1 1/2 inches wide form singly or in twos or threes in the axils of the stem leaves in midsummer. They are clear blue (or, rarely, pink or white) and consist of 16 to 20 strap-like, toothed ray flowers.
Blossoms are primarily bee-pollinated and open early in the morning and close about five hours later.
Linnaeus, observing this tendency, planted chicory in his floral clock in Uppsala, Sweden. (There, the flowers opened at 5 a.m. and closed at 10 a.m.) Flowers may stay open longer on cloudy days. The herbalist Mrs. C.F. Leyel has observed that “the lovely blue color of the petals is changed into a brilliant red by the acid of ants, if placed on an ant-hill.” The plant tops make a dyestuff that produces a variety of colorfast yellows and greens, depending on the mordant used. In the language of flowers, chicory symbolizes frugality.
The second-century physician Galen called chicory a “friend of the liver,” and contemporary research has shown that it can increase the flow of bile, which could be helpful in treating gallstones. Laboratory research also has shown root extracts to be antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and slightly sedative. They also slow and weaken the pulse and lower blood sugar. Leaf extracts have similar, though weaker, effects.
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Keyline Design/SystemKeyline design is a technique for maximizing beneficial use of water resources of a piece of land. The Keyline refers to a specific topographic feature linked to water flow. --Wikipedia.
The tool used for keyline plowing is the Yeoman's plow, a subsoiler with very thin shanks. Created in the 1950s by P.A. Yeoman, an Australian mining engineer and farmer, it was designed to lift and aerate the soil while limiting soil disturbance to minimize oxidation of organic matter.
"Plan the work then work the plan." — P.A. Yeomans
Freshly keyline plowed (Photo: Kirsten Bradley)
In the mid 1950s, Australian engineer P.A. Yeomans demonstrated a new system of land management he called the Keyline system. The consensus of the time, championed by people like Dr H.H. Bennett, was that soil was a finite resource and that once depleted “it was irretrievably lost as if consumed by fire”. P.A. understood that long natural carbon cycles create soil, but also knew that this process takes hundreds or thousands of years. By adjusting the conditions in the soil with his plowing and management techniques, P.A. was able to speed this process and create dozens of millimeters of fertile topsoil in just one year.
P.A. started out as a conservationist, but quickly realized that creation of topsoil was the ideal solution, while conservation simply delayed the inevitable soil destruction. Depending on the climatological conditions, conservation may ‘work’ for just a few years under harsh conditions, while allowing profitable cropping for decades in other milder regions. This is a direct cause of the extractive farming methods still used today. Farming then and now is still dominated by the practice of mining the topsoil for minerals, turning over the exhausted topsoil with plows, and replenishing the minerals lost in the crop with fertilizers. This, as seen over and over, leads to soil depletion, erosion, and finally desertification.
Keyline Design was first developed by the great Australian, P.A. Yeomans (1904-1984), in the late 1940s & 50s initially as a practical response to the unpredictable rainfall regime he found on his new property
By changing this method of conservation to one that continually builds soil fertility to feed the crops, the land will become more fertile over time. This creates a feedback loop, but one with positive outcomes. It can be said that one should “feed the soil, not the plants.” When healthy soil is present and maintained, any crops suitable for the region will grow well without any fertilizer. Herein lies P.A.’s argument that soil creation and the Keyline system will lower the costs of the farm while at the same time producing higher yielding, and thus more profitable, harvests. This is even more relevant in today’s profit driven world. Farmers that would not otherwise concern themselves with improving their methods for the sake of the land will more often pursue actions that will increase their bottom lines.
Leveling is the primary concept when dealing with water and the Keyline system. Before any earth is moved the land should be sufficiently surveyed and pegged. Pegging is simply placing pegs at a corresponding level around the property to give rise to a visual level line. By manipulating the techniques used to determine each peg’s placement, one can plan-out all of the features of a system.
While a modern laser level would be the easiest tool to use in leveling, low-tech, do-it-yourself options exist. P.A. designed a type of level called a bunyip. Another DIY level is an A-Frame level. A-frame levels can be constructed even easier than bunyips, requiring only three pieces of wood, a string, and a rock!
Any of these leveling devices will need to be accompanied by a large number of pegs. When the level is found, the pegs can be placed accordingly to map out the land before any work is done. It may be useful to have pegs tall enough to be readily seen over the surrounding vegetation, or the vegetation can be cleared off before the pegs are placed. When using pegs to mark keylines, channels, and dam water levels, it is advisable to have the pegs painted or flagged to distinguish the lines dotting the landscape at a glance.
Employing the methods developed by P.A. Yeomans, keyline pattern plowing is a proven component in the job of revitalizing degraded soils. The plow performs deep ripping with minimal plant disturbance.
By using a chisel, tyne, or P.A.’s keyline plow, both aeration and water integration can be accomplished in one pass over the land. While mouldboard type plows turn over just the topsoil, the chisel plow creates numerous deep cuts into the compacted and often sealed soil where air and water can now penetrate deeper and activate the decomposition process just below the topsoil.
Different kinds of soil types may require altered preparation. For example, sandy, light soil in arid conditions can be chisel plowed deeply (45 cm) from the very start, while in heavy clay soils you must chisel plow shallowly (8 cm) the first year, while slowly increasing plow depth each year. This is because the heavier soil types will seal over with the first substantial rainfall, locking out the water and air.
The goal of this type of cultivation is to blend the subsoil and topsoil into one contiguous layer. This creates a more balanced distribution of minerals, nutrients, air, and water, everything needed to grow healthy plants. Again, a more traditional turn-plowing would leave the topsoil overturned and segregated from the subsoil leading to soil destruction rather than creation.
To create soil, certain conditions must be met. Some kind of organic material must be present that, when combined with the correct levels of moisture and air, will create an ideal soil climate for decay to occur. While adding organic material is often the fastest way to improve soil condition, over large areas of land it is not practical to haul in the massive amount of materials that would be required. The Keyline system focuses on hastening the decomposition of the naturally occurring organic material already in the soil by adjusting the moisture and air levels within. Once the biotic conditions in the soil are jump-started, micro and macroscopic life return in such abundance that it dwarfs the total weight of a harvested crop or the grazing cows above.
Roots are one of the main organic components that will be decomposing in the midst of the added moisture and air. As soil improves, more plants will grow, from the soil’s seed-bank or from being sown, and increase the field’s biomass; this is another positive feedback loop. Some of these plants are likely to have deep tap roots that stretch down into the subsoil and bring up minerals unlocked by chisel plowing, making them available for plants with shallower roots. As these and other pants die, the roots decay more rapidly in the improved soil conditions. The spaces left behind by the roots create natural pathways for air and water to further integrate into the soil. Even crops grown for harvest or grazing will still leave the roots in the soil, continuing the improvement process.
A positive interaction in soil life that can be used to your advantage is one between the roots of legume plants and bacteria that live on them. The bacteria fix nitrogen from the air into the soil, making it available to plants. The bacteria does this in exchange for starches created by the legume plant. If seeds are to be sown on land that is undergoing Keyline cultivation improvement, it is strongly suggested to use a mix that includes inoculated legume seeds appropriate for the area. Yet another benefit to growing legumes is that they are often high in protein, making them nutritious pasture.
The shape of the land will determine how water flows over it. While some land is flat, most have at least slight valley and ridge shapes. Water will naturally flow from the higher ridges into the valleys, following and eroding the steepest path. These waterlines should be identified at the beginning of a project because they form the framework the land will follow. The placement of buildings, dams, paddocks, and anything else on the farm will be determined in relation to the existing waterlines.
All water will flow off of ridges and into valleys perpendicular to contour. When examining a topographical map, water will flow the shortest distance between two contour lines.
Water and Controls
Within the Keyline system, all water sources available to the farm fall into four categories. The first is the rain that directly falls onto the land, the second is runoff from the farm itself, the third is runoff from outside the farm, and the fourth is groundwater. In short, the idea is to capture and hold the water on your land as long as possible by controlling when and where it flows — via channels, keyline plowing, dams, and other features of the Keyline system.
Plowing and the Keyline
The first step in determining your water management plan is to find the keylines of the land. These are on-contour lines that occur where the steeper and flatter parts of the land meet in the center of a valley. A keyline can be found on topographical maps where the contour lines begin to get further apart. This represents the highest contour of the land that can efficiently hold water; there may be lower keylines, but they represent the highest point in a valley formation, not the overall property, where water can be held. Not all valleys have their keylines on the same contour.
The plowing should start at the center of a valley and follow the keyline. As you get further away from the keyline, the contour of the land changes, but the plowing should continue parallel to the initial keyline. This creates a slight grade in the plow cut that channels water in the furrows toward the ridge.
Keyline valley map
The furrows’ grade is slight. It is not intended to create any great flow, but to distribute the water more evenly over the ridge and valley formations with a gentle drift. By slowing the flow, the water is allowed ample time to absorb into the soil. This has a side effect of obstructing erosion. If you are familiar with on-contour swales, this concept will be familiar to you.
In flat lands the plowing can continue down the land as needed. In more undulating lands, paddocks may need to be created and plowed from multiple keylines. Keyline plowing can continue up the steeper land as high as the tractor can go.
After the keylines have been identified, a determination of which valleys should have dams constructed in them can be made. It is always worth holding water at the highest point possible to take advantage of gravity doing the work of irrigating the land below the dam. With 15 meters of height, gravity irrigation from a dam will have as much pressure as a spray irrigation system and can be used as such. This would give the farmer the benefits of spray irrigation while letting gravity pick up any energy costs.
The cost of building any dam comes down to a ratio of earth moved to water stored. When determining the ideal minimum shape of a dam, the length of the wall across a valley should be less than or equal to the distance water will back-flood. The ideal depth is between 3 and 6 meters. This depth should include 0.9 meters of free-board, the height between the full water line and the top of the wall, above the spillway level. This compensation will allow for 0.6 meters of free-board during rain events where 0.3 meters depth of water evacuates the dam via the spillway. This extra safety precaution is to compensate for large, 50 or 100 year, floods.
Keyline and dams
Types of Dams
High contour dams are installed above the valley keyline. Water from runoff is limited above these dams given their high positioning in the landscape. To fill these dams, swales can be constructed around the ridge to channel rainfall to these types of dams. These steep land dams come at a high price since great deals of earth need to be moved to store relatively little water in these narrow dams. Their water will be freely available for use in pressurized and flood irrigation just about anywhere on the property.
Following the land lower, valley keyline dams are the most common dams found in the Keyline system. Found in undulating lands, keyline dams are more economical than high contour dams; they store greater sums of water for little earth moved. Keyline dams offer another chance to use the stored energy of water to irrigate, but the irrigation area is restricted to the lands below the dam.
In flatter lands dams become even more economical, storing great sums of water for very little earth moved. As the land becomes flatter the wall of the dam will not necessarily find enough height between 2 shallow ridges. In this case the wall is extended back to create sides, or wings, that hold the water in. An extreme example of a flat lands dam is the broken ring dam. The side walls on the broken ring dam extend and curve back on the dam itself.
Finally, in dead flat lands ring dams can be utilized. Ring dams will have no runoff entering them naturally. To keep a ring dam filled, water must either be pumped or piped in from another source. The advantage a ring dam has over a pond is that the ring dam sits above ground level and therefor contains energy, albeit slight, that can push the water into an irrigation channel.
Dams can be fitted with lock-pipes under the wall. While these lock-pipes add greatly to the cost of constructing the dam, they then provide gravity fed water at the turn of a valve. The cost of the lock-pipe will be overshadowed in the savings over running a pump for irrigation. Irrigation can be spray if the total height of the water is 15 meters or more, but even in flatter lands gravity will still allow for, what Yeomans calls, flood-flow irrigation.
Flood-flow irrigation uses an irrigation ditch to channel the water from a dam’s delivery point source, the lock-pipe. Watergates along the irrigation channel can be opened and closed by one man to irrigate several hectares per hour of the land below. This land can be separated into smaller paddocks by fencing that is run on an irrigation steering bank. The bank will allow for more control of water disbursement.
Each paddock should be Keyline cultivated to spread the irrigation, or rainfall, evenly over the land. The keylines should ultimately lead the water to the next lower dam on the property. The slow speed of the water traveling through the keyline system, coupled with good drainage in each paddock leading to the next dam, will allow for sufficient absorption while also preventing the land from ever being over-saturated. This keeps in-line with holding the water on the land as long as possible, using and reusing it as often as possible.
The irrigation channels should be grassed over quickly in dry, windy areas to prevent erosion. This should be a simple task given the nature of the channels to be watered with every rainfall or irrigating.
The "Wombat" point causes effective shattering of compacted subsoil ~ Finding Yeomans Keypoint
Swales, which appear similar to irrigation channels, can be used to connect dams, hold water in places dams are not viable, and to help direct rainfall to different parts of the land. By connecting dams of the same level with a swale, you gain additional flood insurance; after one dam fills, the excess water can back-fill the swale and equalize all the dams in a lateral chain before any water is lost over the spillway.
Swales are built on contour so that there is no directional flow. The energy of the rising water will evenly spread water along the length of the swale. The water held in a swale after a rain event absorbs into the soil, adding to the subsurface hydrological flows. This underground water will flow through and down the land very slowly. This water moves so slowly it is effectively held in the land itself instead of on the surface in a dam. If rains are regular, the land should build to maximum water content within a few years; at this point springs may appear in the lower portions of the property.
While swales are not a major component of the Keyline system, they are worth mentioning because modern permaculture uses of swales have evolved alongside the techniques described in Yeoman’s books – and compliment each other well. Swales can be effectively deployed on properties not large enough to support full sized dams. They are also extremely cost effective soft earthworks, requiring no compaction.
When dams become over full there needs to be a overflow mechanism in place that will not allow water to flow over the wall of the dam, but also not concentrate the water such that erosion occurs. Spillways accomplish this task by controlling the overflow of water through a wide level gap in the wall. The water flows evenly and slowly over the spillway and onto land outside of the wall that is also graded nearly flat. From here the water will be treated as rain that falls outside of the dam and its watershed. In a large rain event lock-pipes can be opened as extra insurance against an overflowing dam, but this should only be necessary in extraordinary rains.
Trees plan an important role in the Keyline system. Belts of timber can be planted above keylines on the steeper less suitable slopes. These belts provide wind breaks, erosion control, shelter for grazing animals, and an opportunity to harvest poles for fencing. Trees can also be used along fence and farm roads to like effect. When planted above keylines, the trees provide a plowing guideline that can be followed each subsequent year.
After implementation, the Keyline system offers up a number of benefits. Some of these benefits are seen immediately, such as the stopping of erosion, while others take longer to show and are not as overt, such as restoring subsurface hydrological flows. Still another boon offered by the Keyline system, particularly the system of dams, is the abatement of both floods and droughts.
Often times water is sheeted off the land as fast as possible, increasing stream and river flows greatly but temporarily, before the water finds itself disbursed into the ocean. This fast moving water contains a great deal of energy that is not only wasted, but actively erodes the land on its journey to the ocean. By slowing the advance of water over the land with the Keyline system, the water has a chance to absorb fully into the land.
This restores aquifers and ancient subsurface flows. These aquifers and subsurface flows act as a battery. Once recharged the surrounding landscape will come alive as springs begin to dot a once dry landscape. Further this battery of water will regulate the flow of rivers, preventing large floods by slowing the water and compensating for the flow lessening ill effects of drought.
Additionally water that takes a leisurely subsurface course will have time to be naturally filtered. The results of this would be rivers carrying less sediment. This sediment is not noticeable when deposited in the ocean, but many bodies of water such as the Newcastle Harbour in Australia and the Chesapeake in the United States have been polluted by runoff from improper water management. The implementation of the Keyline system would have a side effect of clearing such bodies of water over the subsequent decades.
Keyline Plowing Results
The Keyline system provides a total solution to farmers that provides ample water infiltration in even arid regions for cropping or grazing land. This water, coupled with Keyline cultivation, activates decomposition where the top and subsoils meet. This decomposition leads to deeper, richer, more biologically active soil which in turn leads to more productive land.
By capturing and controlling water as it falls and flows over the land, erosion is completely mitigated. The water control system also tempers the bust and boom flood and drought cycles. Ultimately Keyline planning is the only long term, cost effective, restorative land management system available that can be applied to conventional farm and pasture lands without the need for less conventional modifications seen in more modern permaculture solutions.
Ken Yeomans is continuing his father’s work, selling copies of the books listed below as well as offering keyline consulting.
This process is carried out when soil moisture conditions are ideal and is only done once a year if cover cropping or 5 – 7 years if sowing a permanent pasture.
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ArtichokesArtichoke articles in my Vegetable page
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES – LIKE DIAMONDS, ARE FOREVER Helianthus tuberosus is an annual which will tolerate most conditions. Commonly called Jerusalem artichoke, it is known in its native America as Sunroot. Other names include Sunchoke and Suntuber. It is not to be confused with the globe artichoke, Cynara scolymus, which is a thistle with edible flower-buds.
Suntuber foliage is said to be good fodder. Rapid growth makes it an excellent summer shade, screen, or windbreak. It may also have potential in paper-making. The plant produces a substance which inhibits growth in nearby plants, so don’t use the green foliage for mulch.
Sunchokes, Jerusalem Artichokes
Plant tubers in early spring, choosing the spot carefully – you plant Suntubers for life! When you harvest them – last year I took four and a half large buckets from a patch one metre square – small ones will be overlooked and grow next year. Don’t put whole tubers in mulch or compost, and remove unwanted plants as they appear. In warm weather, plants will reach one to three metres in a few weeks. Water and feed in moderation. They will produce a crop even if totally neglected. The first cold snap kills the tops. Dig tubers as required. If you have to harvest them all at once, store them in moist sand in a cold place.
For Food: You can feed fresh tubers to pigs and goats, or finely chopped to poultry. As a human food, like many other food plants, they need careful preparation. Some people have no problem digesting them but they are a minority. Over 50 percent of their carbohydrate is in forms we don’t have enzymes to break down. Beans contain 10 to 15 percent of the same substances. These substances need to be leached or converted to make a digestible product.
Refrigerate or cold-store tubers for at least a month, then slice and boil in lots of water for 15 minutes, adding one tablespoon of lemon juice per 1200 mls after 10 minutes, or right at the start if you want crisp tubers. Drain, slip off peel, and pat dry. The slices can then be marinated, pickled, dehydrated, barbecued, roasted, deep-fried, made into soup, pureed and used in pies, cakes, or scones – use your favourite pumpkin recipes, but add less sugar.
If you have a solar cooker, slow combustion stove, crock pot, or are planning a hungi, cook whole tuber for 24 hours in a tightly closed container at 93’C (200’F). Season and serve, or slice and dry for a snack.
How To Grow Artichokes Grown from seed, the first will be harvested the first season, running neck and neck with the first tomatoes on the scene. Up north the seasons are shorter, however will start producing the very first part of August, following approximately 6-8 weeks of yield.
Most people have the idea that artichokes will not withstand high heat. Intense sunlight will cause the plant to wilt, even when soil is moist. Don’t be dismayed they may look a bit bad for a while but will recuperate later. The sun may cause the plant to develop too quickly and will cause them to be somewhat smaller than normal and hardened or “tough.” As the weather begins to cool down the artichoke will respond with healthy delicious artichokes.
[Grow with some shade to give relief from heat.]
Preparing the soil: Artichokes need to grow quickly to be choice and edible. Watering is very important, and soil needs to be very good. They will need a high quality compost and manure in generous amounts each and every season. Sand and organic material should be worked into a soil that is “heavy.” Well-drained soil is significant for good production. Slightly acid soil is needed for artichokes 6.0 works well. Plant at least 2 plants per person, and if you really are an artichoke fan, then 4 per person.
The first year of planting, you will have better results with larger plants if you buy dormant roots form western nurseries. Your plants will use a lot of area in your garden, in time will grow 4 ft. wide and 3 ft. high. Where the season is short, they will grow only ½ that size, double your plants in that case as producing time is shorter. Place the plant in a 12x12-in. hole filled with rich compost. Make sure the soil around the plants is well fertilized and loose.
Growing from seed: Where the growing season is shorter, it is best to use seed to start the plant. You will start the artichoke about the same time as you begin to the rest of your plants indoors [8 wks before last frost: Feb. 1st]. Place the seed in a moist material (peat moss) in the refrigerator about 2 weeks before planting in garden. Move to individual containers after germination. Set out after all danger of frost is gone.
Caring for your plants
Each month sides dress each plant with a high nitrogen fertilizer.
Water well to encourage production in cooler climates. In warm areas too early flowering is not acceptable, cut back by trimming flower stalks and big leaves. In addition, reduce the water and feeding until highs are by mid-day in the 70’s.
When warm cover the soil with mulch. When weather is cool, remove much of the mulch.
One fourth of the plants should be replaced each year. Old plants need to be replaced with new ones to keep steady production. Take suckers or side roots from the best and healthiest plants to propagate. The shoot should be about 3 inches long, harvest these in early fall.
Artichokes perfect for eating should be soft and bendable for two or three inches below the bud. The bud “eatable part” can be kept for up to one month in the refrigerator. Cooked artichoke hearts are delicious and worth the effort of growing!
ARTICHOKES The artichoke (Cynara scolymus) is also known as the Globe Artichoke, but shouldn’t be confused with the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosusv) or the Chinese artichoke (Stachys affinis).
This Mediterranean native is an edible flower variety of the thistle species within the Asteraceae family, which includes composite flowers such as sunflowers. Prior to cultivation, the ancestor and wild, natural occurring variety of the artichoke, the cardoon, was used by ancient Greeks and Romans. Around the 9th century the cultivation of what we think of as today’s artichoke, began in Naples. By the 19th century the artichoke had made its way to the USA.
BENEFITS OF ARTICHOKES
The artichoke is grown today for both its food capabilities and as an attractive plant variety for flower beds and yards. If enjoying the food aspect of the artichoke there are many health benefits to be gleaned from this tasty bloom. 1 medium artichoke (120g), after cooking, offers 64 calories, 0 grams of fat, 3 grams of protein, and 14 grams of carbohydrates (10g of which is dietary fiber). These edible flowers are an excellent source of Vitamins K-1 and B-9 (folate). They are also a good source of Vitamin C and the minerals magnesium, manganese, and potassium.
Artichokes also contain cynarin, a hydroxycinnamic acid and a biologically active chemical constituent that inhibits taste receptors, making foods seem sweet. Cynarin has the ability to lower cholesterol, improve digestive health (including IBS and dyspepsia), and boost liver function. Artichokes also contain flavonoids such as silymarin, which improve liver health and function, and rutin, quercetin, and gallic acid, all which induce apoptosis and reduce the growth and progression of certain cancer cells.
To grow this majestic flower, plant seedlings in full sun to partial shade after the last frost date in your area has passed. However, don’t plant too late as extreme heat conditions during flower stalk formation will cause the plant not to flower.
Since artichokes have shallow root systems, they are not heat or drought tolerant. They prefer moist soils, but cannot endure being waterlogged. The top reasons for growth failure and onset of root rot in artichokes are summer drought and waterlogged winter soils.
Email Professor Colby Glass, MAc, MLIS, PhDc, Prof. Emeritus