Butterfly Bush Peach Cobbler
Ligustrum "Suwannee River"
Hibiscus Lord Baltimore
Fastest Growing Shrubs
Shrubs by sun & shade
Mexican Bird of Paradise|
Native Flowering Shrubs
Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow (zone 9)
Central Texas Shrubs|
Best Shrubs for Texas Newly planted shrubs should be watered frequently until they are well rooted, which may take two growing seasons. Once established, plants should be watered less frequently so they will develop deep roots and be better able to withstand drought.
In the absence of rain, most shrubs benefit from a once-a-month, thorough watering during the growing season. Normal lawn watering is not a substitute for thorough tree and shrub watering. The feeding root system of a tree or shrub is located within the top 12 inches of the soil and at the “dripline” of the plant. The dripline is the area directly below the outermost reaches of the branches. Apply water and fertilizer from just inside to a little beyond the dripline, not at the trunk. Simply lay a slowly running hose on the ground and move it around the dripline as each area becomes saturated to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. For large trees, this watering technique may take several hours.
Central Texas Gardening--Shrubs
GOLD STAR ESPERANZAThis heat loving semi-evergreen shrub has golden-yellow bell-shaped flowers late spring through fall. Ideal for large containers, flower beds, butterfly and hummingbird gardens. 12” ready to use pot regularly $24.99*
Gold Star Esperanza
MEXICAN BIRD OF PARADISE [PRIDE OF BARBADOS]Tropical looking tree with electric-orange blooms.
Extremely heat and drought tolerant once established.
Very easy to grow in our alkaline soils, tolerates very high temperatures and is drought tolerant.
Also, a favorite of hummingbirds and butterflies. 3 gallon container regularly $24.99*
Large Shrubs for Area LandscapesLandscapes are better balanced and make better habitats for the birds if they not only include tall shade trees and groundcovers, but everything in between, including perennials, small and large shrubs and small trees.
In the large shrub category, consider butterfly rose, primrose jasmine, pyracantha and standard yaupon holly.
A tough old-fashioned rose, such as the butterfly rose, is a great choice to be a transition plant in a landscape. Butterfly rose qualifies as a xeriscape plant because it will survive without any supplemental irrigation. Despite blooming eight to nine months of the year, butterfly rose is not bothered by diseases or insects. It will grow to fill a space 10 feet tall at 15 feet in diameter if planted in full sun. The thorns make it more desirable as a wildlife plant, but do make it hard to prune or shape. Select butterfly rose if you have enough space to let it grow to full size and glory.
Selecting, Buying and Planting a New Rose Here’s my advice for selecting, buying, and planting a new rose:
Step 1: Tea is for drinking.If, like me, you are not interested in entering into a lifelong regimen of spraying from an arsenal of chemicals, then you’ll select rose plants known for disease resistance. In general, these will not be hybrid teas, but rose varieties that grow in old-fashioned bushy shapes – “shrub roses” -- nearly as wide as they are tall.
Also, you may find that some of the healthiest rose varieties only bloom once, which may affect your choice. There are also new rugged varieties from which to choose; these will clearly state their disease resistance on the label or catalog description.
Step 2: Choose a suitable place for your new roses.For best results, the location should receive no less than six hours of direct sunlight. You can test a spot by placing stakes or flags in the ground where you hope to grow the roses and watch to see how much sunlight and shade actually passes over the flag during the day. Consider shade from trees above, and plants already growing nearby.
Step 3: Choose your vendor carefully.That is, try to buy from a source that
• If possible, sell roses grown on their own roots, not grafted roses
• ship Bare-root roses: plants that have been washed of soil and shipped with naked roots, or
• roses potted in containers
Do Not purchase roses that
• are in a box (the roots are growing a plant-it-all degradable box) or
• plants with roots encased in sawdust in a plastic bag (often sold at drug, discount home-improvement stores and supermarkets. You get what you pay for).
If you are new to the concept of “bare-root” roses, you might be shocked when you open the shipping carton to find brown sticks wrapped in moist paper and in a plastic bag. Let me reassure you that this is a perfectly acceptable, if not preferred way to receive roses. Why? Because bare-root roses are dormant plants that have been held in cold storage and usually do not suffer from transplant shock (die-back of stems and/or delayed growth). They are ready and waiting to grow once they are exposed to spring temperatures.
The one drawback for those of us living hectic lives is that bare-root roses should be planted within a day or two after they arrive. If you cannot plant them right away, try and squeeze them into the refrigerator, or worst case scenario, soak the roots in a bucket of water. The roses should be placed in water in a deep container up to the spot where the roots meet the stems. In the case of grafted roses, which will be most of the bare-root ones, there will be a large gnarled growth at the spot where they were grafted, the bud union. Place the bucket in a shaded, cool spot in the basement if unheated, or outdoors if it is above 32 degrees F.
Step 3: To plant when the roses arrive, follow these instructions. Take the plants out of the box and place the roots in a bucket of water—for up to 24 hours—to re-hydrate them. Prepare the hole (step 4), and after the soak, plant immediately taking care to not let the roots dry out (cover with a moist towel if you have to plant many).
Step 4: Prepare the soil.Roses need great (rich in organic matter) soil that is cool and moisture retentive. Dig a big hole and incorporate lots of humus (compost) into the excavated soil before planting. Excavate a hole large enough so that the bare-roots will not be bent in the hole. Create a cone of soil in the middle of the hole and spread the roots around the cone. Then fill in with the compost-amended soil, pressing down to remove any large air pockets-- but do not step on the soil or “muddy” the rose into place unless you have very sandy soil. You don’t want to fill in all the spaces in the soil, forcing out essential.
If the plants were grafted, bury the bud union two to four inches below the soil. In my Zone 6 garden, I plant them about two inches below grade. In colder climates I would recommend planting the bud union even deeper. Water when you plant, and be consistent about watering deeply and frequently, at least for the first two growing seasons. Mulch the surface of the soil after planting, being sure to not let the mulch touch the stem of any plant. Feed regularly with an organic rose food, following the manufacturers’ recommended rates and methods of application.
Step 5: Roses in the border.I want to grow roses like other plants, as if they were shrubs or perennials to incorporate into mixed plantings. That is out of the question with the disease-prone hybrid teas, but shrub roses have a chance once established. When first planted, do not allow competition either above or below the ground – shade from taller plants, plants that block the breeze, or ones that will steel moisture form the rose’s roots. Once the roses have caught on, you can allow other, lower plants in front, taller plants in back, to move closer.
In other words, while the idea of adding roses to a mixed planting is an excellent way to use roses, wait a year or two before you plant perennials nearby. This notion will not be popular with those in need of instant results. I’m afraid to play off the old saying “Rome wasn’t built in a day,” roses can’t be grown in a day. But one thing people can do, is to plant three of a kind. Three rose plants near each other, so that in two years, the impact is substantial, and the triplets will have a better chance to stake their ground.
Pruning shrub roses is different than pruning the long-stemmed hybrids bred for cut flowers. Shape the plants -- first by removing dead wood and any crossed branches -- then by encouraging an open, vase shape for the plant. Cut roses back to spots just above buds that face away form the center of the plant. To prune after blooming, cut down to the just above the first five-leaflet leaf with an outward facing bud.
Louis Philippe Rose
Louis Philippe Rose
Louis Philippe Rose avail. at Niche Gardens
Natchitoches Noisette Rose
Peggy Martin Rose
Peggy Martin Rose climbing rose
Peachy Cream Rose
OSO Easy Peachy Cream Landscape Rose at Sooner Plant Farm 25.99
Honey Bun Rose
Honey Bun Rose You'll love that Oso Easy® Honey Bun Rose Has the highest level of disease resistance and that it produces an abundance of semi-double blooms. The unique flower color ranges from blush-pink to butter yellow to creamy white.
Honey Bun Rose
Apricot Drift Rose Exhibits a true ground cover habit and offers a fresh look to the series. Double apricot colored flowers begin flowering in spring and display a season-long show of color. It is just as tough and disease resistant as others in the Drift® series.
Roses from Princess Yorkshire
Jack Benny Rose
Rose Cécile Brunner
Honey Bun Rose
Rosa Choix Realité
Rosa Ketchup Mustard
Rosa Miss Thang
Rosa Pink Promise
Rosa Singin' the Blues
Heirloom RosesHeirloom rose. With an exceptional citrus and verbena fragrance, this rose shows off deep lavender blooms with a light lavender reverse. The large pointed buds open to cupped blooms that 3.5” in diameter on average. They grow in small clusters and have an expanded bloom form. This bush, upright plant has semi-glossy, medium green foliage and grows between 5’-6’ with a width of 2’-3’. Singin’ the Blues should not be pruned heavily. $27.
Rosa Easy Going
Jackson & Perkins Floribunda rose. 2-quart $20. This sport of Livin' Easy™ is fragrant, beautiful, and super-tough! Sometimes the very best plants are accidents. Easy Going™ was discovered growing at Harkness Nursery in England in 1996, a golden-apricot sport among all the orange-apricot Livin Easy™ roses. Covered in thorns, very bushy and upright, the shrub was absolutely covered in healthy foliage. And it stayed that way all season, untroubled by blackspot and other foliar diseases that plague many roses. Here was a magnificently low maintenance, laid-back rose -- it had to be named Easy Going™!
...gardeners have been singing its praises ever since. It's a floribunda, with small clusters of 4-inch double blooms held in a wide-open, ruffled, delightfully elegant way that reminds us (here at Jackson & Perkins) of a corsage. Yellow, gold, and apricot wash together on these soft petals, which release a sweet fragrance very reminiscent of honeysuckle.
.. It really doesn't take up much space -- about 3 to 5 feet in height and perhaps 2 feet in width -- but it makes its presence felt with dense branching, an upright growth habit, and all those forbidding thorns. The foliage, as you might expect from a rose untroubled by blackspot, is large and glossy, a rich deep green that makes a verdant backdrop for the blooms. Even when Easy Going™ is not in bloom, the shrub is attractive in the sunny garden.
The Time of Year to Prune Jasmine Some species are not fragrant, such as primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi), a fast-growing, yellow-flowered shrub. It can grow to 30 feet high, so prune vines after flowering to keep the plant to size--drastically, if necessary.
Jasminium mesnyi primrose jasmine, or Chinese jasmine.
Mexican Bird of Paradise
MEXICAN BIRD OF PARADISE [PRIDE OF BARBADOS]Tropical looking tree with electric-orange blooms.
Extremely heat and drought tolerant once established.
Very easy to grow in our alkaline soils, tolerates very high temperatures and is drought tolerant.
Also, a favorite of hummingbirds and butterflies. 3 gallon container regularly $24.99*
Brugmansia "Charles Grimaldi" -- Angel Trumpet
From Vancouver, WA. This brugmansia is amazing looking and is amazingly hardy. I have mine planted in the ground here in zone 8b, and although it died to the ground without winter protection, by mid-April it has begun to send several new shoots up from the base of its trunk. This last winter it handled 10 degrees F without more than an inch or two of bark mulch. We also have very wet winters. Last year it started blooming by the first of June (and you could smell the blooms from 15 feet away), hopefully it will be on the same schedule this year.
from Franklinville, NJ: I fell in love with brugs several years ago, and I've found that Charles Grimaldi is the best overall for looks, reliability and, of course, fragrance.
I've overwintered them in the garage and in our house (I'm in zone 6/7), set them out next spring and they come right back. However, with three cats and a dog I have to keep the plants protected to make sure nobody eats the leaves.
On the other hand, brugs are so inexpensive that it might be worth it to simply grow them as annuals. If you order a plant in March or April and keep it indoors until after the last frost, you'll have gorgeous blooms by late June, and they'll keep going until first frost in the fall.
I just don't know why more people don't grow these stunning plants. Whether you put them in the ground or in a LARGE container, they are some of the most beautiful flowering shrubs available anywhere. And that fragrance!!!! Like a delicate vanilla-lemony soap, but one you can smell from 10 feet away on a mild summer night.
Negative from Tucson, AZ (Zone 8a): For hot, dry areas (like Tucson), I've learned that brugmansias are more trouble than they're worth, including the "easy" Charles Grimaldi. Mine's in a 5-gallon pot on the back porch, northern exposure with filtered morning sun.
Got the plant in April of 2012 when it was only 4" high. It grew to 5' by September, but required ridiculous amounts of water and fertilizer, plus several pints of rubbing alcohol + frequent blasts of water from the hose (which tore up its leaves) to keep the spider mites under control. I could've sustained my entire front yard with the amount of water this one plant consumed! Plus, the plant blew over frequently because it became so top-heavy.
When it finally bloomed in Sept., the flowers were gorgeous but I was disappointed at their mild fragrance, which reminded me of Ivory Soap. Right after blooming, the plant quickly went dormant (even though temps were still in the 80's and 90's) and looked unattractive until March.
Then it took off again, but despite my best efforts, spider mites got the upper hand this year, and one by one it dropped its leaves and now it looks like a skeleton. So unless you have the means to provide a humid, jungle-like atmosphere in the desert, you're more than welcome to try this plant but don't be disappointed if it turns out to be not as easy-to-grow as reviewers from more suitable climates would have you believe.
Available plant at Select Seeds
Oleanders bloom from summer to fall, with fragrant flowers in shades of apricot, copper, pink, lilac, red, purple, salmon, yellow, and white, depending on variety. The plants are best adapted to the west coast, southern states, Florida, and Texas and will withstand dry conditions and wind, as well as salty, marshy soils, making them popular in coastal regions. Oleanders grow 6 to 12 feet tall and wide, and some varieties can be trained to grow into small trees up to 20 feet tall. The flowers are very fragrant. All parts of plant are poisonous to humans and animals if ingested; the plant’s sap can cause skin irritation in some individuals.
Even in the garden, oleander shrubs require minimal care. Although the shrubs are drought-tolerant, they look their best when they are watered during dry spells. However, take care not to over water them. Yellowing leaves indicate that the plant is getting too much water.
When planting an oleander select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. However, oleanders are adaptable and will withstand dry conditions as well as marshy soils. Plant in the spring or fall. Space plants 6 to 12 feet apart, depending on variety. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Prune oleander after the main bloom period to encourage bushier growth and more flowers, and to reduce the size of the shrub.
Deadly plants for dogs Dogs love to play, and they can easily get bored and chew on things or dig up things that they shouldnt. This is a normal activity for dogs, but sometimes the substances they discover and ingest can be dangerous or deadly. Protect your dog from poisonous plants by keeping them out of his reach. Oleander Toxicity Rating: High. Ingestion of even small amounts can kill. Dangerous Parts: The entire plant is toxic. Consuming leaves, fresh or dried, will poison most dogs.
Yellow Oleander, Thevetia peruviana. Also called: Lucky Nut, Mexican Oleander, Thevetia nerifolia, Cascabela thevetia, Cascabela nerifolia, Cerbera peruviana. Used in Ayurvedic medicine.
Oleander tree is a wonderful and takes very little care, it can either grow to be a rounded shrub or small to medium sized tree.
SpiraeaSpiraea japonica 'Little Princess' Common Name: Japanese spirea; Type: Deciduous shrub; Family: Rosaceae; Zone: 4 to 8; Height: 1.50 to 2.50 feet; Spread: 2.00 to 3.00 feet; Bloom Time: May to July; Bloom Description: Pink; Sun: Full sun; Water: Medium; Maintenance: Low; Suggested Use: Hedge; Flower: Showy; Leaf: Good Fall; Attracts: Butterflies; Tolerate: Deer, Erosion, Clay Soil, Air Pollution
Spiraea "Little Princess"
w Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates a wide range of soils. Remove faded flower clusters to promote additional bloom. Prune in late winter to early spring.
This Japanese spiraea cultivar ("Little Princess") is an upright, rounded, deciduous shrub which typically forms a compact mound to 30" tall. Features numerous pink flowers in flat-topped clusters (corymbs) in late spring to mid-summer. Attractive to butterflies. Oval, sharply toothed, mint green leaves take on attractive red hues in autumn.
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family, including leaf spots, fireblight, powdery mildew, rots, aphids, leaf roller and scale.
Spiraea "Little Princess" / Spiraea Double Bridal Wreath
Garden Uses: Effective in borders, cottage gardens, rock gardens and as low hedges or edging. Excellent for foundation plantings.
Spiraea a genus of about 80 to 100 species of shrubs in the family Rosaceae.
Spirea deciduous or semi-evergreen shrubs. They are grown primarily for their small but profuse white, yellow, pink, or purple flowers in spring or summer. Use spirea in a mixed or shrub border, as a groundocver, in a rock garden, or as hedging, depending on growth habit.
Noteworthy characteristics: Flowers profusely.
Care: Fertile, moist but well-drained soil in full sun. If plant flowers on previous year's wood, prune after flowering by cutting back flowered shoots to strong buds, young lower growth, or basal growth. For those that flower on the current season's wood, cut back to a low permanent framework as buds begin to swell in early spring.
Spiraea "bumalad Anthony Waterer" / Spiraea Fritschiana
Spiraea "bumalad Anthony Waterer" / Spiraea Fritschiana
Yesterday, Today, and TomorrowYesterday, Today, and Tomorrow This pretty shrub with the antique-sounding name is one of the standbys in the Southern shade garden. Native to the tropical and subtropical Americas, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow is almost always evergreen here in our coastal zone 9A. Although several species of this plant are widely cultivated, the one I most often see in the garden is Brunfelsia pauciflora. Which is strange when you think about it! “Pauciflora” means “having few flowers” in Latin and that’s just not true for Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow! In warm climates like ours, it flowers from April through September or October.
Although the Brunfelsia family will thrive in almost full sun, they always appreciate a little break from the hot afternoon summer sun. And unlike many sun-loving shrubs, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow will bloom in almost complete shade, as long as it isn’t deep, dark shade.
I like to use Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow as a foundation plant, a steadying influence that provides continuity from season to season and from one (sunny) side of the garden to the other (perhaps more shady) side. It’s a quieter sort of shrub, without the drama or razzle-dazzle of azaleas or the finicky tenderness of tropicals like ixora.
As the flowers age, the color fades from purple to lavender to white.
Where did this plant get its unusual name? From the flowers, which open a deep blue-purple and slowly fade to lavender and then white. Over the course of the blooming season, flowers of all three colors are present on the shrub at the same time. I like the initial color best, and apparently, so do pollinators. The theory is that the color changes as a signal to pollinators that the “action” is over for that flower.
I have never had much trouble growing the several Brunfelsia varieties that are available, although they differ a bit in height, cold-hardiness and shade tolerance. It can be hard to tell which is which at the garden center, another reason to shop at reputable independent nurseries who know what they’re talking about.
Filtered shade or dappled sun is ideal.
Brunfelsia pauciflora – native to Brazil, 3-8 feet tall with a rather variable, open habit. Considered to be the most shade-tolerant. Flowers have a tiny white throat. Reliably hardy in zone 9.
Brunfelsia ‘Floribunda’ – a variety of B. pauciflora, above. Same shade and cold-tolerance. Shorter plant, more flowers.
Brunfelsia ‘Macrantha’ – also a pauciflora type. Larger flowers, no white throat.
Brunfelsia pauciflora ‘Compacta’ – a dwarfing variety, typically 4-6 feet tall, foliage less open and more “compact” than species. Tends to bloom only once, in the fall. More tender.
Brunfelsia australis – sometimes called Paraguay jasmine. More fragrant. Larger, up to 12 feet tall. Marginally more cold-tolerant, but I still consider it a zone 9 plant.
Brunfelsia grandiflora – less cold-hardy, maybe zone 9B or 10 in a typical winter. Perhaps less tolerant of shade. Habit is more dense. Blooms once, in late winter or early spring.
Note: all Brunfelsia species produce alkaloids that are toxic if ingested. Don’t eat this plant!
Brunfelsia pauciflora Common Names: Yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, morning-noon-and-night, Brazil raintree. Family: Solanaceae (nightshade Family)
Moisture: Water regularly and don't allow to dry out completely.
Hibiscus, Lord Baltimore
Buddleia, Peach Cobbler
Review: This was my first time growing a buddleia. From the other plants that I've seen, 'Peach Cobbler' is more compact. It's a pretty hardy plant as well. I grew it for a couple of months in heavy clay soil. It didn't die, but it grew slowly. I placed it in a pot with better draining soil, and it took off.
Ordered 10/17/15 for front hell strip or container or where? Beside rose bush in backyard?.
Butterfly Bush: How To Care For The Buddleia Everyone who wants colorful blossoms and fragrant flowers which attract butterflies and birds in their garden, then plant the butterfly bush the Buddleia (sometimes spelled “Beddleja”) also called the “summer lilac.” Especially during the spring season, they help us to enjoy nature to its fullest.
The Butterfly Bush known as the “summer lilac” with colorful blossoms and fragrant flowers attracts butterflies.
The very hardy butterfly bush can survive in almost any weather condition. They grow just about anywhere, whether you want them there or not! However, the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone list zones 5 to 9 as most recommended for the plant. Buddleias come in many varieties which vary in color and size. For a home garden, opt for compact versions as the larger varieties tend to take over your garden area. These butterfly attracting plants can prolifically spread and may actually find themselves listed as an invasive species in some areas. Check with your local authorities to determine their status in your area. Watch them carefully: these undemanding, easy-to-grow bushes can get out of control if not taken care of properly.
The Butterfly Bush known as the “summer lilac” with colorful blossoms and fragrant flowers attracts butterflies.
The plants grow best when planted during late fall or early spring.
They require medium fertile well-drained soil to grow.
The main concern with these plants is space. Most types grow 6–12 feet tall and 4–16 feet wide. Always give the plant some extra room.
Choose a space with partial sun and partial shade.
The butterfly bush doesn’t require a lot of fertilizer, but when planting use a good compost while preparing the soil bed.
When planting position the root ball at the same level as the soil surface.
Give plants a minimum distance of 10 feet apart.
Water thoroughly after planting.
Once established the plants are drought tolerant
Dwarf varieties of the butterfly bush do well when grown in containers. I particularly like to see these dwarf varieties grown as a tree. Val Bourne, an award-winning garden expert, recommends varieties like Black Knight, Salvia Black and Blue, Peacock and Pink Delight for container gardening.
These happy, fast growing flowering shrubs with beautiful flower spikes need little to no care, but keep a few things in mind while waiting for those butterflies and hummingbirds to show up.
Fertilize the plant well in the winter.
Deadheading should be your favorite pastime!
Keep the plants at an appropriate size by trimming the edges to avoid overgrowth.
Caterpillars can cause Buddelia trouble. If their feeding is minimal and not harming the plant, leave them alone; otherwise, take the necessary measures to remove them.
Water the plant freely when growing and sparingly at other times.
Avoid using too much fertilizer; this will promote leaf growth rather than flowers.
Do not try to move a butterfly bush from one part of the garden to another. These plants do not cope well with transplanting.
Always be on the lookout to make sure your butterfly bush doesn’t start spreading like a weed. Trim as necessary.
Pruning Buddleia in Spring
Correctly pruning a butterfly bush is of great importance. The varieties which bloom and flower in late summer and autumn, are usually varieties related to Buddleia Davidii, and should receive a hard pruning every year in the spring.
By hard pruning we mean removing the growth and shoots from the previous summer’s growth. Cut them all the way back to within 3 or 6 inches of the older wood. However, if you want to increase the size of the bushes quickly, cut the summer’s growth back to about 6 to 9 inches long. Make sure you remove, cut and thin out all weak twigs.
Most varieties of Buddleias produce their flowers on the new shoots grown during the current year, but there are some exceptions – Buddleia alternifolia.
Buddleia Pruning After Flowering
the flower buds need to be “preserved” and pruning should NOT BE DONE until after the flowering season has finished normally in June. The pruning is slightly different. Lighting thin and removal of old branches at this time. Shorten long shoots.
After 5 or 6 years bushes look tall, awkward looking and unattractive. The old wood needs to be pruned back hard in early April. You’ll lose blooms for one season, but new vigorous growth develop for next years bloom.
When the Crocus come out is a good time to prune indicator. New wood produced after this severe pruning is more vigorous and the flowers heavier than the ones produced on two-year-old wood of the Buddleia.
ShrubsTop 10 Quick-Growing Shrubs Get fantastic results and garden benefits even faster than usual with these plant picks.
Why we love it: Elderberries tolerate wet and even dry soil once established.
Panicle Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata
The newer and shorter varieties have helped this plant’s popularity explode. Their hearty nature and low-maintenance makes them an easy plant to use as a hedge, in mixed borders or as a specimen. Grow in full to part sun and check the plant tag for proper spacing.
Why we love it: Its close cousin, the Annabelle-type hydrangea, grows quickly and makes a nice addition to shade gardens.
Ninebark Physocarpus opulifolius
New cultivars with colorful foliage have moved this native plant out of the back border and into the spotlight. Use as a hedge, backdrop for flowers or in mixed borders. This tough shrub tolerates full sun to part shade, drought, salt, clay and rocky soils.
Why we love it: You can find lots of compact cultivars like Lady in Red (Ruby Spice), Nugget, Little Devil and Amber Jubilee.
Fraser Photinia Photinia x frasen (Red Tip)
This is an evergreen shrub often used as part of a screen or tall hedge. Its bright red ends have inspired its other common name—red tip. Regular pruning controls the plant’s size and promotes new growth. White flowers appear in spring and though they’re pretty to look at, they’re not pleasant to smell. Be aware that this shrub is invasive in some parts of Texas.
Why we love it: Red Robin photinia tends to be less susceptible to leaf spot diseases.
Glossy Abelia Abelia x grandifolia
Add some fragrance and color with this sweet shrub. Fragrant, bell-shaped flowers first appear in spring and continue throughout the growing season. The season ends with purplish fall foliage. Grow in full sun for the best flowering and fall color. Use en masse, as a hedge, in natural areas or in front of larger plants and evergreens.
Why we love it: This low-maintenance plant has few pest problems.
Hazelnut Corylus Americana
This low-maintenance native shrub grows in full sun to part shade and moist to dry soils. The edible fruit can be roasted and eaten if you can harvest the nuts before the birds and squirrels do. Use as a screen or hedge in informal or natural areas where it has room to spread.
Why we love it: The pendulous male flowers (catkins) provide added interest in late winter or early spring.
Waxmyrtle Myrica cerifera
This native tree is often pruned and used as a shrub. It’s easy to grow and tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, including drought and flooding. Northern gardeners can grow its hardier relative, Bayberry (Myrica pennsylvanica).
Why we love it: The evergreen foliage is fragrant when crushed, and the gray berries are an energy source for winter birds.
Japanese Beautyberry Callicarpa japonica
The striking violet to almost metallic purple fall fruit make this shrub worthy of a spot in the shrub border. The blue-green leaves make a nice backdrop for both the pinkish white flowers and fruit. It grows best in full sun or light shade in well-drained soils.
Why we love it: The birds love the fruit of both this and its southern cousin, American beautyberry, which is hardy in zones 6 to 11.
Yaupon Ilex vomitoria
This native evergreen shrub forms dense thickets well suited for screens, hedges, windbreaks and barriers. It can be espaliered or trained as a small tree or topiary. The red berries brighten the winter landscape and provide food for the birds.
Why we love it: Its adaptability, along with drought- and disease-tolerance, makes it a long-lived native alternative to boxwood.
PittosporumPittosporum a genus of about 200 species of flowering plants in the family Pittosporaceae. The genus is probably Gondwanan in origin; its present range extends from Australasia, Oceania, eastern Asia and some parts of Africa. They are commonly known as pittosporums or, more ambiguously, "cheesewoods".
Flowering Japanese Cheesewood; Pittosporum tobira / Feuilles et fleurs du Pittospore du Japon
Right photo attribution: "Pittosporum Tobira JPG0" by Jean-Pol GRANDMONT - Own work. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pittosporum_Tobira_JPG0.jpg#/media/File:Pittosporum_Tobira_JPG0.jpg
The species are trees and shrubs growing to 2–30 m tall. The leaves are spirally arranged or whorled, simple, with an entire or waved (rarely lobed) margin. The flowers are produced singly or in umbels or corymbs, each flower with five sepals and five petals; they are often sweetly scented. The fruit is a woody seed capsule, which bursts on ripening to release the numerous seeds. The seeds are coated with a sticky resinous substance. The genus is named after their sticky seeds, from the Greek meaning "pitch-seed".
Tarata (P. eugenioides) and Kohuhu (P. tenuifolium) – both from New Zealand – and the Japanese cheesewood (P. tobira) from southern Japan are widely cultivated as ornamental plants in subtropical regions; pittosporums can also be grown indoors as bonsai.
SpireaSpirea Spireas are small to medium sized deciduous shrubs that produce cascades of flowers in spring and summer.
Among the easiest flowering shrubs to grow, spireas are often used in foundation plantings, as hedges, and in perennial gardens. Most spireas bloom in late spring to midsummer. Flower colors include pink, red, yellow, and white, depending on the variety. Some types have colorful fall foliage. Size depends on the species and variety, and can range from 2 to 10 feet tall and wide. Low-growing bumald spirea (S. bumalda) and medium-sized Japanese spirea (S. japonica) can be used throughout the landscape. Vanhoutte spirea (S. vanhouttei), the classic bridal wreath spirea, grows up to 10 feet tall and 20 feet wide, so give it plenty of elbow room. Masses of small, white flower clusters cover the plant in the spring.
Plant in spring or fall. Space plants 2 to 15 feet apart, depending on the expected mature size of the plant. Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. If your soil is in very poor condition, amend the soil you've removed from the hole with a small amount of compost. Otherwise don't amend it at all. Carefully remove the plant from the container and set it in the hole. Fill in around the root ball with soil until the hole is about half filled. Then firm the soil and water thoroughly. Fill the hole with the remaining soil and water again. Form a raised ridge of soil around the perimeter of the hole so it acts like a berm to help hold in water.
Apply a layer of compost under the tree each spring, spreading it out to the dripline (the area under the outermost branches). Add a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Deadheading spent flowers will sometimes induce a second flowering. Most spireas can be pruned after flowering to reduce height and maintain the desired shape. However, Japanese and bumald spireas should be pruned in early spring to promote the best flowering. Remove dead, diseased, and broken branches anytime. Spireas can be severely pruned and will grow and flower again.
Growing Spirea Shrubs Novice and experienced gardeners alike love spirea bushes (Spiraea) for their eye-catching beauty, fast growth rate, hardiness and ease of care. Spirea shrubs are deciduous shrubs that can be divided into two categories: spring blooming and summer blooming.
The spring blooming spirea has a delicate cascading habit with large clusters of white flowers poised on arching branches. The summer blooming spirea bush boasts beautiful pink, white or red flowers atop upright branches. Both varieties are prized for their shape and flowers.
Japanese BoxwoodJapanese Boxwoods vs. Common Boxwoods Japanese boxwood (buxus microphylla var. Japonica) will cope with quite heavy frosts and is also able to take full sun. This gives it a distinct advantage over common boxwood (buxus sempervirans), which can suffer in freezing weather and full sun. Propagation of both boxwoods is by cuttings and the weather-coping capabilities of the Japanese boxwood mean cuttings can be safely planted outdoors even before the last frost.
The Japanese boxwood thrives in alkaline soils. The common boxwood requires a rich, slightly acidic soil. The roots of the Japanese boxwood go deeper than those of the common boxwood, which are often so shallow that they break the surface. In warm weather the common boxwood needs to be watered regularly and benefits from a layer of mulch over the roots to help keep them moist.
Both plants are evergreen but the common boxwood is more affected by cold winds and the leaves can turn brown after exposure to a dry cold wind. In severe cases the leaves may fall and replacements will be slow to appear. This could adversely affect the shape of the shrub.
Glossy AbeliaAbelia × grandiflora Common Name: glossy abelia; Type; Deciduous shrub; Zone: 5 to 9; Height: 3.00 to 6.00 feet; Spread: 3.00 to 6.00 feet; Bloom Time: May to September; Bloom Description: White/flushed pink; Sun: Full sun to part shade; Water: Medium; Maintenance: Low; Suggested Use: Hedge, Naturalize; Flower: Showy, Fragrant; Leaf: Good Fall
Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. Best flowering in full sun. Prefers moist, organically rich soils which drain well. Somewhat evergreen in the South, but generally deciduous in the St. Louis area where stems may suffer substantial damage (including dying to the ground) in cold winters.
Glossy Abelia Abelia x grandiflora Originally from Italy, this popular rounded shrub makes a fine hedge, barrier, mass or foundation plant. It also works to combat erosion when planted along a bank. Graceful, arching branches are covered with white flowers tinged with rose from late summer through the fall, attracting butterflies and bees.
What Are the Best Tips for Growing Abelia Shrubs? Abelia shrubs are adaptable, low-maintenance shrubs with broad evergreen leaves and delicate flowers. These shrubs can be planted in sun or shade. Though they are low maintenance and generally immune to pest problems and diseases, proper placing in the landscape, ample water and fertilization, and some pruning is required to keep Abelia shrubs looking their best.
There are a variety of different Abelia shrubs from which to choose. Glossy Abelia, or Abelia x grandiflora, is a hybrid in the Abelia genus commonly planted in gardens and landscapes. From this hybrid, several cultivars have been developed. These include Edward Goucher, Sunrise, Little Richard, Kaleidoscope, Sherwoodii and Canyon Creek.
The flower color, height and spread of Abelia shrubs varies depending on the species and cultivar, but they do share similarities. The shrubs typically flower from late spring through early fall and produce clusters of white or pink flowers set against the glossy foliage. The shrubs grow between 3 and 6 feet (about 0.9 to 1.8 m) tall with an equal spread. The branches curve gracefully down to the ground, creating a neat cascading look.
Abelia shrubs grow well in full sun or in partly shaded areas, making them versatile in the landscape. They can be planted as part of a foundation planting or included in border areas and shrub beds. Abelia can also be planted as hedges in areas that get a mixture of full sun and part shade. For the best flowering however, Abelia should be planted in areas that get full sun.
Established Abelia shrubs can tolerate some drought conditions, but newly planted shrubs require consistent moisture. Fall is the best time to plant a new Abelia shrub, as fall-planted shrubs have the winter and damp early spring months to get established before the next growing season. When planting Abelia in late spring or summer, it is important to keep the shrub well watered during dry periods.
Abelia shrubs should be pruned in late winter before the first green buds emerge. A third of the oldest stems should be cut down at the soil line to rejuvenate the shrub and encourage healthy new growth. Dead and broken branches should be removed whenever they are noticed.
Abelia Abelias (Abelia spp.) are shrubs in the honeysuckle family that thrive in warm climates with little care. They are known for their long summer bloom period, attractive foliage, and fragrant flowers that are a favorite of butterflies.
Abelia x grandiflora 'prostrata' / Abelia x grandiflors 'Leonora Enking'
'Prostrata' is a low-growing white-flowered form that grows just 18 inches tall.
Abelia chinensis x A. uniflora
Ligustrum x 'Suwannee River' [Privet]Privet 'Suwannee River' A versatile hybrid with lustrous, deep green evergreen foliage on a very compact, mounding form. Attracts Birds, Easy Care, Fragrant, Tolerates Poor Soils. White flowers.
Privet 'Suwannee River' Suwannee River Privet features showy panicles of lightly-scented white flowers at the ends of the branches in mid spring. It has dark green foliage which emerges light green in spring. The glossy oval leaves remain dark green through the winter. The fruit is not ornamentally significant. The bark is not particularly outstanding.
Suwannee River Privet is a multi-stemmed evergreen shrub with a mounded form. Its average texture blends into the landscape, but can be balanced by one or two finer or coarser trees or shrubs for an effective composition.
This is a relatively low maintenance shrub, and is best pruned in late winter once the threat of extreme cold has passed. It has no significant negative characteristics.
Ligustrum x 'Suwannee River' -- Suwannee River Privet
Suwannee River Privet will grow to be about 4 feet tall at maturity, with a spread of 4 feet. It has a low canopy. It grows at a slow rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for approximately 30 years.
This shrub does best in full sun to partial shade. It is very adaptable to both dry and moist growing conditions, but will not tolerate any standing water. It is considered to be drought-tolerant, and thus makes an ideal choice for xeriscaping or the moisture-conserving landscape. It is not particular as to soil type or pH, and is able to handle environmental salt. It is somewhat tolerant of urban pollution.
Rhaphiolepis umbellataRhaphiolepis umbellata 'Minor' - Dwarf Yeddo Hawthorn Category: Shrub; Family: Rosaceae (Roses); Origin: Japan (Asia); Evergreen: Yes; Flower Color: White; Bloomtime: Spring; Fragrant Flowers: Yes; Synonyms: [Raphiolepis, Rhaphiolepis ovata 'Minor']; Height: 4-6 feet; Width: 2-3 feet; Exposure: Full Sun; Summer Dry: Yes; Irrigation (H2O Info): Low Water Needs; Winter Hardiness: 10-15° F
Rhaphiolepis umbellata 'minor'
Rhaphiolepis umbellata 'minor' Gulf Green
This shrub also only blooms on old wood (like lilacs) so any pruning should be done directly after flowering.
Gray SantolinaSantonlina this was the first plant I ever fell in love with. My aunt had one in her yard. Gray Santolina, the most common variety is the most vigorous. It forms a naturally mounded shape of dense gray foliage that smells heavenly. It takes full sun and does not need supplemental irrigation unless we have two months of drought with over 100° weather. There is also a green Santolina that is nice but it is not as vigorous.
Santolina chamaecyparissus Common Name: lavender cotton
Easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soils in full sun. Plants appreciate regular moisture during the first year, but tolerate drought once roots are established. Plants perform well in limey soils. Plants tolerate poor dry soils. Avoid rich soils. Avoid wet soils. Gritty or sandy soils help provide the exceptional drainage that these plants need. Plants dislike humid weather where they are more susceptible to fungal diseases and tend to lose compact shape by opening up in the center. Deadhead spent flowers as soon as they fade.
Lavender cotton or gray santolina is a small, semi-woody, tender sub-shrub with aromatic, evergreen, silver-gray foliage. It typically grows in a mound to 2' tall spreading to 3' wide. It is native to the Mediterranean area (southern Europe and northern Africa). Pinnately divided leaves have a rough texture and musky fragrance. Button-like, 3/4-inch wide, bright yellow flowers (rays absent) of this aster family member bloom in summer atop stalks rising well above the foliage to 6" tall. Flowers may not appear if plants are regularly trimmed/sheared. Plants are often grown in herb gardens. Foliage has historically been used as an insecticide and moth repellant.
What Is Santolina: Information On Santolina Plant Care Santolina herb plants were introduced to the United States from the Mediterranean in 1952. Today, they are recognized as a naturalized plant in many areas of California. Also known as lavender cotton, Santolina herb plants are members of the sunflower/aster family (Asteraceae).
An herbaceous perennial suited to hot, dry summer and full sun, Santolina (S. chamaecyperissus) is indigent to areas of sandy, rocky infertile soils but will also do well in garden loam and even clay, provided it is well amended and well-drained.
These evergreen shrubs have either silvery grey or green leaves reminiscent of conifers. Santolina has a mounded, round and dense habit reaching only 2 feet high and wide with vibrant yellow ½-inch flowers perched on stems above the foliage, which are notably attractive in dried flower arrangements and wreaths.
The silver foliage makes a nice contrast to other green tones of the garden and persists through the winter. It is a prominent specimen for xeriscapes and mixes well with other Mediterranean herbs such as lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and rosemary.
8 Of The Best Spring Flowering Shrubs
Native Flowering Shrubs
(Malvaviscus drummondii) Blooming year round this small to medium deep-rooted shrub (2-9ft)
Bottle Brush ShrubCTG: Bottlebrush [Callistemon rigidus] There are lots of different species, varieties, and cultivars of bottlebrush, an Australian native, so do a little research on the differences before you buy.
Bottlebrush is a small, usually shrubby tree, normally getting only 10 to 15 feet tall. Bees absolutely love the fuzzy red flowers and the tree will be buzzing with life all summer long.
bottlebrush.jpg bottlebrush2.jpg This tree is notoriously frost sensitive, usually being completely killed if temperatures get into the 20s. But I’ve also seen bottlebrush taken out by our extreme Texas heat during abnormally hot, dry summers.
And the north side of a landscape should be avoided, since that’s the coldest spot.
Bottlebrush is evergreen, so it’s a good choice for screening out unsightly views. But since it’s wispy, it allows light to filter through, rather than creating a solid hedge-type feel, giving privacy without overwhelming an area.
Robin reports that her trees were very drought tolerant once they were established, and were very happy in her unamended heavy clay soil.
So, final analysis: lovely tree that brings on the bees for months in warm weather. But, it needs good drainage, sunlight but not searing, and we can lose them in cold winters.
BottleBrush Bush I have to admit that this is one of my favorite plants. I love, love, love the Bottlebrush plant. This plant is truly a carefree plant with little to no worries about diseases or bug problems. It will flower several times a year here in the south, (I live just outside of Houston, Texas).
The Bottlebrush is great for covering things and blocking views, such as a fence, or blank wall, or a bright light from a neighbor's flood light attached to the back of their garage. The last example is what happened to us. The light was so bright that it lite up over half of my backyard and shined into my son's bedroom window. We put up a bottlebrush to screen out the light. It grew nicely over a short period of time and is beautiful when it blooms.
Another great thing about this plant is that there is very little pruning involved in taking care. It is best to trim it to shape it. Try not to take out too much out of the center of the plant.
Growth Habit: Zones 8-10 Grows 8 x 6 feet; the average growth is 6 x 4 feet (but I have seen it grown to about 11 feet)
It flowers in late spring and early summer and then again in the fall.
-Drought tolerant. -The bottlebrush plant attracts hummingbirds and butterflies, as well as bees (this is a good thing).
-The bad thing about these plants is that they will freeze when there is a severe winter. I personally have not lost any of these plants but they have died back to the ground during a hard winter.
Other common species:
-Callistemon citrinus- Lemon bottlebrush lemon-scented leaves; red flowers.
Foraging Texas: Bottlebrush Tree leaves, flowers are eatible.
How: tea, seasoning
Pruning ShrubsVideo: How to Prune Bushes and Shrubs
SourcesCold Stream Farm located in Michigan is a wholesale shrub nursery and bare root tree nursery.
Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) - 6-12" $4.39
SumacsSensational Sumac The spectacular color and form of this lesser-known tree make it a garden stand-out
Want something completely different, super-exotic looking, and incredibly tough and hardy, that nobody else has in their landscape?
Think sumac—-one of North America’s best contributions to European gardens. Our native sumacs are small trees, up to 30 feet tall, with fern-like compound leaves which make great loose-textured landscape accents, highly favored as small courtyard trees in English and European gardens and as erosion control in hard-to-mow dry hillsides. The spreading, multiple-trunk plants have hollow, pithy stems which were highly valued by Native Americans and colonists for making pipe stems.
Clusters of small, greenish-white summer flowers, usually covered with bees and other pollinating insects, are held upright in thick spires up to a foot long, which quickly start forming the characteristic dense clusters of crimson red seeds. The small drupes are covered with very fine hairs that have a distinct citrusy flavor when tasted; in fact, as a Boy Scout I often made a tangy summer “lemonade” by soaking and swishing the fruits in water before straining and adding a little sugar. As a bonus, the tiny hairs on the fruits are high in ascorbic acid and vitamin C! The dried drupes of some species can also be ground into a crimson spice used in preparing rice and many Middle Eastern dishes.
The plants are easily spread by seed, but usually far away from your own garden so there is less pulling needed for errant new plants. However, sumacs can spread from underground rhizomes into sometimes–large colonies.
Sumac seed pods remain on plants well into winter, adding a dash of extra texture and color long after everything else has turned brown. They attract colorful winter birds, which know it as a great emergency food when other sources of food may be lacking.
By the way, because sumacs are either male or female, only the female plants have the attractive seed clusters. If you are collecting a specimen for your garden from a native stand found along a roadside, be sure to dig a small plant or two from the outer edge of a clump of female sumac, to be sure you will have the fall and winter fruits in your own garden.
Best of all, one of their strongest suits for sumac is their unsurpassable fall colors. Topping the wide, architectural plants are leaves that turn brilliant golden and crimson in the fall, from Canada and New England to even the normally fall color-starved coastal Southeast and other mild-climate areas. In fact, the name sumac comes from an ancient word meaning “red.”
Unlike its close relatives, poison ivy, oak and sumac, the landscape sumacs do not cause itchy rashes. Vine- and shrub-like poison ivy and oak have three distinct leaflets per leaf, so there is no confusing those. But poison sumac (Toxicodendron vernix) is also a small tree with leaves like regular sumac. Difference is, poison sumac has clusters of grayish white berries that hang down, and the plants grow exclusively in low, wet, or flooded areas such as swamps and peat bogs. You will not find poison sumac growing up on high, dry hillsides where non-poisonous ornamental kinds typically grow.
The most popular sumacs for landscape use are winged, staghorn, and smooth sumac, either the native wild species or specially-bred cultivated varieties such as the golden leaf “Tiger Eye” sumac.
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is a small tree with branches that spread to make a small rounded crown. Its forked branches are covered with furry rust-red colored hairs, much like a stag’s antlers. Fruit clusters are long and tight, and covered with the same velvety fur.
“Cutleaf” staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina laciniata) is an especially beautiful form with finely divided leaflets.
One of its most exceptional cultivars is 'Tiger Eyes', with chartreuse green leaves that quickly change to yellow, in a nice contrast to its rosy-pink leaf stems; it is especially dramatic when the leaves begin to turn scarlet in the fall.
The leaves of winged sumac (Rhus copallina) feature flat membranes called “wings” along the midrib. The flower and fruit panicles are only four or five inches long and wide, and are less dense than other species.
Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra) is a smaller tree with smooth twigs and looser fruit clusters. The undersides of the leaflets are pale, almost white, giving it a shimmery effect in soft breezes. ‘Prairie Flame’ is a cultivar with exceptionally brilliant red fall color.
There are other sumacs worthy of landscapes, including a low-growing, fast-spreading “fragrant sumac” (Rhus aromatica) which makes a superb groundcover for dry slopes. Though its fall colors are as brilliant as any other sumac, it has three leaflets per leaf, making it look a little too much like poison oak or ivy for some people’s comfort.
Sumac Cotinus Coggygria / Sumac Rhus Coppalina
Staghorn Sumac [Rhus typhina]Wikipedia Rhus typhina syn. R. hirta, the staghorn sumac is a species of flowering plant in the family Anacardiaceae, native to eastern North America. It is primarily found in southeastern Canada, the northeastern and midwestern United States and the Appalachian Mountains, but is widely cultivated as an ornamental throughout the temperate world.
Rhus typhina is a deciduous shrub or small tree growing to 5 m (16 ft) tall by 6 m (20 ft) broad. It has alternate, pinnately compound leaves 25–55 cm (10–22 in) long, each with 9–31 serrate leaflets 6–11 cm long. The leaf petioles and the stems are densely covered in rust-colored hairs. The velvety texture and the forking pattern of the branches, reminiscent of antlers, have led to the common name "stag's horn sumach".
Staghorn sumac is an ornamental plant which provides interest throughout the year; though its vigorous, suckering habit makes it unsuitable for smaller gardens. It can grow under a wide array of conditions, but is most often found in dry and poor soil on which other plants cannot survive. Some landscapers remove all but the top branches to create a "crown" effect in order to resemble a small palm tree. Numerous cultivars have been developed for garden use, of which 'Dissecta' syn. 'Laciniata' (cutleaf staghorn sumac) has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit, is also grown in gardens as an ornamental plant.
The Staghorn Sumac was introduced to Europe in the 17th century and is popular as a garden plant. In both French and German, the common name of the species (Sumac vinaigrier, Essigbaum) means "vinegar tree".
Smooth Sumac / Staghorn Sumac
How to Plant Staghorn Sumac With its fiery autumn beauty, fuzzy spring growth and red summer fruit that persists through the winter, Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is a deciduous shrub or small tree with year-round interest. Native to the Eastern United States, it adapts easily to sea air and elevations up to 4,900 feet. Drought and pollution tolerant, sumac takes over after fires and clear-cutting by sending up suckers from extensive root systems faster than other surviving plants. Plant Staghorn sumac where you can control its spread.
Choose a location for staghorn sumac where pavement or other obstruction blocks the growth of adventitious roots, those that grow away from the tap root just under the surface. These roots produce the suckers that can transform a specimen into a thicket.
Dig a hole in a sunny area that is one and one-half times the size of the soil ball. Mix the soil from the hole with a handful or two of well-rotted manure or other organic matter. Line the hole with this soil mixture.
Remove the pot or sack and position the sumac sprout at the same level it was growing in its nursery pot or in the ground where you dug it up. Fill in the hole around the soil ball with the soil mixture. Tamp down but do not compact the soil.
Apply 2 inches of organic mulch around the sprout but leave a 6-inch circle uncovered around the stem to provide a catch-basin when you water the plant and to keep mulch-borne pathogens and pests away from the young tree’s tender trunk.
Water your sumac sprout deeply. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, for a week. As soon as you see new green growth, your tree has begun to grow new roots and requires no extra mulching or watering.
Tips: Remove suckers and new plants annually to encourage your tree to grow tall. Staghorn sumac trees grow 15 to 30 feet tall. In addition to their attractive features, wildlife benefits and value to xeriscapers, they serve as soil-retainers because their roots spread beyond their leaf canopy.
Fertilize staghorn sumac at your peril. This rugged little tree requires little extra nourishment and may either overdose and die or produce enough offspring to occupy the neighbor’s yard as well as yours.
Staghorn sumac Staghorn sumac is most effective when drifts or colonies, typical of natural settings, are allowed to establish. Colonies can be rejuvenated every few years by cutting them to the ground in mid-winter. Sumacs grow in dry waste areas, such as impossible slopes where even juniper struggle. They are fast growing, generally pest and disease-free, and drought-tolerant.
Thin bark makes sumac especially sensitive to lawn mowers and string trimmers. Wounding, however, triggers development of replacement sprouts. Colonies are often single-sexed, formed from a single, suckering parent. Only female plants produce flowers and berries. The berries are winter food for many upland gamebirds, songbirds, and large and small mammals.
Staghorn Sumac This small tree sometimes grows as a tall shrub. Its irregular crown is made up of a few stout, spreading branches. It often sprouts from roots and forms thickets. It grows in well drained to dry soils in open areas and old fields, at forest edges, and along roadways. The Staghorn Sumac is native to the northeastern United States and southern Canada. In Ohio it grows in scattered areas, and generally is absent from the west-central counties. Other than as an ornamental, the Staghorn Sumac has little value to people today. In times past Native American Indians made a lemonade-like drink from its crushed fruit. And tannery workers used the tannin-rich bark and foliage as a tanning agent.
Easily grown in average, dry to medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Tolerant of a wide range of soils except for those that are poorly drained. Generally tolerant of urban conditions. This is a suckering shrub that will form thickets in the wild via self-seeding and root suckering.
Best for dry, informal, naturalized areas where it can be allowed to spread and form colonies. Effective when massed on slopes for erosion control or in hard-to-cover areas with poorer soils. Naturalize in open woodland areas, wood margins or wild areas. Has some nice ornamental features (flower panicles in spring, shiny dark green summer foliage, fruiting clusters in fall and excellent fall foliage color), but is probably too weedy and aggressive for shrub borders or foundations.
Flameleaf SumacRhus lanceolata Prairie flameleaf sumac, Flameleaf sumac, Prairie sumac, Lance-leaf sumac, Lance-leaved sumac, Texas sumac, Tree sumac, Limestone sumac, Prairie shining sumac
Native from southern Oklahoma through north, central, and west Texas to New Mexico and south to Puebla in central Mexico, the limestone-loving Prairie Flameleaf Sumac is relatively fast growing, generally pest- and disease-free, and heat-, cold-, and drought-tolerant. Flameleaf is a perfect description of this trees outstanding, orange and red, autumn foliage, but its pale trunk and branches, green summer leaves, and pyramidal clusters of red fall fruit are also noteworthy. Though it may sucker from the base to form a colony, it is not as likely to aggressively colonize as the more easterly Shining Sumac (Rhus copallinum). Like the very different-looking Evergreen Sumac (Rhus virens), Prairie Flameleaf Sumac produces berries that, when soaked in water, make a tart, tasty, high-Vitamin C tea.
Bloom Color: White , Yellow , Green
Soil Description: Rocky, calcareous, well-drained limestone soils, including clays, loams, and sands. Usually in calcareous rocky soils and clays.
Conditions Comments: Will be less likely to sucker and colonize if left undisturbed. Overly rich soil can cause fusarium wilt when the plant is young.
Conspicuous Flowers: yes
Hill Country Natives narrow list, reasonable prices, delivered.
Wright's Nursery central Tx. Briggs between Briggs and Oakalla on 6040 FM 2657, Briggs, TX 78608 about 1/2 further north than Austin
Native Texas Nursery Austin 512-276-9801
10682 Bandera Rd, San Antonio, Tx 78249, San Antonio, TX 78250
Natives of Texas Upon request we can ship plants for those who cannot come to the nursery. For this service we charge a $25 handling fee to take the plants to UPS for boxing and shipping. The cost of shipping is only known after UPS boxes and weighs/measures the box(s). A credit card number is required to charge the costs to post UPS shipping is known.
Anacacho Orchid Tree
Green Spaces Alliance of San Antonio The mission of Green Spaces Alliance of South Texas www.greensatx.org is “to sustain the natural environment and enhance urban spaces land conservation, through community engagement and education.”
South Texas Growers wholesale and retail nursery and landscaping. 22201 Hwy. 46 West, Bulverde TX (830) 980-9179 out 281 past 1604 to almost 46. About as far as New Braunfels.
Almond VerbenaAlmond Verbena August Plant of the Month This bee loves Almond Verbena and we bet you will too. Those slender spikes of tiny white flowers have plenty of pollen for the bees and lots of fragrance for us to enjoy. Their fragrance is strong and sweet, but that’s not all. This is is one tough plant! It is heat and drought tolerant once established and tolerates San Antonio soil (or lack thereof).
Almond Verbena has a sprawling, bushy appearance making it something you’ll want to plant as a backdrop to other perennials. and away from paths. The foliage is coarse and scratchy; plant away from pathways. Almond Verbena is great to plant near a deck or patio where the scent of summer flowers will come up to greet you!
This thing grows fast too. You’ll want to give it plenty of room, as it can reach 10-15 feet tall and 6-10 feet wide. The downside? It may not survive a very hard winter. Most years though, it will freeze to ground level and come back the following spring. If winters are mild enough, you may even be able to maintain Almond Verbena as a small tree. By the way, we have a TON of these available now at The Garden Center! Come pick up yours today!
This plant does get very tall, usually very quickly. My experience has been in the range of 10 to 12 feet tall and about 3 to 4 feet wide.
Be sure to plant near a patio or porch to get the full effect of its strong, but lovely, delicately sweet fragrance. Almond verbena is a repeat bloomer, usually from late spring all the way through fall, maybe taking a break during the hottest time of an extremely hot, dry summer.
And when in flower, bees, butterflies and hummingbirds will be attracted to it like magnets.
Listed as hardy to USDA Zone 8, in most warm climates, almond verbena will be deciduous, especially in mild winters. But even if it doesn’t die back to the ground, it will perform best if you treat it as you would other root-hardy perennial shrubs, shearing it back to the ground in late winter. This hard pruning forces almond verbena to put on all new growth, making it fuller, greener, and bushier. A little light pruning in mid-summer can reinvigorate the plant for fall growth.
Plant almond verbena in well-drained soil and water sparingly, but regularly. Once a week watering should be fine, and fertilizer is not needed. This easy-care, root-hardy shrub would make a great addition to any low water-use garden.
ALMOND VERBENA - A HONEY BEE MAGNET Also called sweet almond verbena (Aloysia virgata), this is the most beneficial insect-attracting plant I have ever grown. The fragrance is wonderful.
Native of Argentina, it has an upright habit with slightly weeping, sometimes ungainly branches. In mild winter areas, the mature plants reach 15 feet in height and 6 feet in width. At the branch tips are highly fragrant, delicate white flower spikes which sway gracefully at the slightest breeze, sending their aroma wafting over great distances. The buddleia-like flowers are produced in cycles from early spring through summer to fall. They are enchanting on a warm summer's evening. The flowers are also a magnet to butterflies, bees, wasps and other nectar feeding pollinators.
Send comments to firstname.lastname@example.org, Colby Glass, MLIS, Professor Emeritus